COMESTIBLOG

Dine In Brooklyn 2010

"Foodies, the wait is over!" is Brooklyn Borough President Marty Markowitz's annual call to Dine In Brooklyn.  From 15-25 March 2010, over 200 eateries in the borough of Kings will offer three-course meals for $20.10 at lunch and $25 at dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  You say you want more?  Nearly 40 restaurants will offer two meals at the aforementioned fixed prices.

Last year, I used the occasion of Dine In Brooklyn to try Pomme de Terre, Saint Germain, Pó Brooklyn, and Chez Oskar.  This year?  I'm open to suggestions …

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
209 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

Stir It 28 Haiti Relief Effort

Food bloggers from coast to coast have joined forces to raise a targeted $50k to aid in the Haiti relief effort.  STIR IT 28: Food Bloggers Align for Haiti Relief is a culinary event taking place simultaneously in Atlanta, Chicago, Los Angeles, New York City, and Washington, D.C., on Sunday, February 21^st from 4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M. EST and 4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M. PST in Los Angeles.  One hundred percent of the proceeds from the campaign will benefit Share Our Strength and Yéle Haiti. Participating chefs, food bloggers, restaurateurs, and home cooks from each city will prepare incredible and diverse dishes and luscious cocktails for guests to enjoy.

As part of the campaign, donations are being accepted during the entire month of February for those who are unable to attend one of the nationwide events.  Donations can be made via PayPal and advanced tickets to any of the five events can be purchased by visiting flanboyanteats.com or cococooks.blogspot.com.  Tickets are $30 in advance, with limited door sales in each city.

The New York event will be hosted by Christy Spackman of balancefood.blogspot.com at the NYU Department of Nutrition and Food Studies, 35 W. 4^th Street, 10^th Floor.

Please visit the Facebook page:  http://www.facebook.com/group.php?v=info&ref=ts&gid=296075025866

Food is Where the Heart is

I thought you might enjoy a few "hearty" dishes for Valentine's Day.

Valentine's Day Sweets for Your Sweetie 2010

Although my Valentine's Day picks for 2009 remain perennial favorites, my roster of preferred chocolatiers is expanding (in sympathy with my waistline).

The 2010 edition of the Comestiblog Valentine's Day cacao recommendations begins with MarieBelle, one of New York's most attractive artisanal chocolates.  Founder Maribel Lieberman uses the aid of computers to craft the intricate designs that adorn her sweets.  Several new ones have been added for Valentine's Day—each a work of art.

MarieBelle's 100-piece Cien Box

MarieBelle's prices may not seem quite so attractive, however.  Ranging from $10 for a two-piece Red Tote Box to $260 for a 100-piece Cien Box (pictured above), these are among the most expensive chocolates in New York.

For something fun, but slightly less extravagant, head over to Essex Street Market and look for Shoppe Roni~Sue.  Namesake Rhonda Kave offers samples of a variety of innovative sweets such as pickle truffles, bacon buttercrunch, and pig candy.  Though they may sound somewhat bizarre, they're rather good—and quite reasonable.

Ronnie-Sue's Cocktail truffles

Standard assortments range from $10 for a 6-piece box to $25 for a 15-piece box.  Special collections are also available.

Has Ronnie-Sue captured the true spirit of Valentine's Day?

L. A. Burdick makes world-class chocolates in the quaint New England town of Walpole, New Hampshire.  Using cocoa from the Caribbean island nation of Grenada, Larry Burdick handcrafts his exquisite wares into a variety of inventive shapes, sizes, and flavors.  His mice, penguins, and cigars are as delicious as they are fun.

Should the Granite State be too far afield, however, the new Burdick Café & Chocolate Shop is now open in Manhattan's Flatiron district.

The quality and price of Burdick's Valentine's Day assortments represent a bargain and make for an ideal treat on the day of love.  To help celebrate the 14^th with an eastern twist, Burdick is also offering special Lunar New Year's collections in honor of the coincidental arrival of the Year of the Tiger.  What a marvelous idea!  Whether for 2010 or 4708, L. A. Burdick is the Comestiblog chocolate choice of the year.

MarieBelle

484 Broome Street (between Wooster St & West Broadway), SoHo, Manhattan

(212) 884-9707

http://www.mariebelle.com/

Shoppe Roni~Sue

Essex Street Market
120 Essex Street (NE corner Delancey St), Lower East Side, Manhattan

(212) 260-0421

http://www.roni-sue.com/

L. A. Burdick

5 East 20^th Street (between Fifth Av & Broadway), Flatiron District, Manhattan

(212) 796-0143

http://www.burdickchocolate.com/

Pommes Frites for a Slice of Belgium

A shop that sells nothing but fries?  Why not?  After all, french fried potatoes are among the most prominent staples of the American diet.

A little background before we taste, however.  Despite congressional notions to the contrary, the misnomered fries are not of French provenance.  Pommes frites (pronounced POHM·FREET; essentially, "fried potatoes"), or simply frites, are widely believed to have originated in Huy, a municipality within Belgium's Francophone Walloon region, in the province of Liège.  To substantiate that belief, Belgian historian Jo Gérard cites a document that traces the area's practice of frying sliced potatoes back to the late-17^th century.  The 1781 family manuscript relates that, for more than a century, the poor inhabitants of the Andenne district (which includes Huy) "allegedly had the custom of accompanying their meals with small fried fish, but when the [Meuse] river was frozen and they were unable to fish, they cut potatoes lengthwise and fried them in oil to accompany their meals."

Unfortunately, we've grown accustomed to engineered adaptations of the original Belgian fries by commercial producers seeking to capture that market.  While it may not be shocking to discover that fast-food and so-called family restaurants use frozen spuds, I was surprised to learn that celebrated chef Thomas Keller serves Sysco Systems frites at Bouchon.

Systems instead of Foods?  One can virtually taste the chemical stew from the company's own description:

"The manufacturing process used on Sysco Brand French Fries involves both water and oil blanching to assure uniform golden color, plus air drying to assure high potato solid content and a crisp outer shell, which extends holding time."

Do we still know how a simple fry tastes?  Happily, Pommes Frites in Manhattan's East Village offers us a reminder with the pure, earthy flavor of its authentic Belgian fries.  Here, hand-cut potatoes are fried twice: once to cook them through; and again to add color and texture.  The resulting golden-brown beauties are simultaneously crisp and silky.

Their thickness, incidentally, distinguishes Belgian pommes frites from the thinner variants known as pommes allumettes ("matchstick potatoes"), whose dimensions are similar to those of McDonald's fries.

Pommes Frites offers three serving sizes: regular ($4.50); large ($6.25); and double ($7.75).  Accompaniments include several condiments at no extra charge, as well as 25 sauces at $1 each.  I chose a componential variation of the especial: a cup of ketchup mixed with raw onion, and another of frites sauce (traditional European mayo).  In the end, however, the sauces tasted better together than they did separately.

Pommes Frites

123 Second Avenue (between E 7^th St & St Marks Pl), East Village, Manhattan

(212) 674-1234

http://www.pommesfrites.ws/ 

By train: 6 to Astor Place
By bus:  M8, M15

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestiblab:  They're not fried apples.  When referring to potatoes, pommes (literally, "apples") is a shortened form of pommes de terre ("apples of the earth," or "earth apples").  Terre comes from terra, the Latin word for earth.  (Many English words—such as terrene, terrain, terrace, and terrestrial—share this etymological origin.)  The word frites is the past participle of frire ("to fry").  While "pommes frites" is easier to say than "pommes de terre frites," it's easier yet to say "frites."  Of course, it's not all that hard to say "fries," either.

Soup and Bread in Brooklyn to Benefit the Hungry

Soup and Bread are blowing into the Big Apple from the Windy City today.  This free weekly soup dinner, begun at The Hideout in Chicago, makes its New York debut at Brooklyn's Bell House this evening.  From 6:00 till 9:00, organizers Martha Bayne and Sheila Sachs will ladle out soup contributed by local chefs and bloggers.  (Of course, they'll also have copies of their new Soup & Bread Cookbook for sale.)  This free, family-friendly event is designed to raise money for the New York City Coalition Against Hunger (NYCCAH).

The Bell House

149 7^th Street (between 2^nd & 3^rd Avs), Gowanus, Brooklyn

(718) 643-6510

http://www.thebellhouseny.com/

By train: F,G to Fourth Avenue
By bus: B37, B75, B77

Additional information:

Soup and Bread
http://www.nyccah.org/

Gaging Arby's Takes Its Tollner

The dining room is a vestige of late-nineteenth century splendor.  Tall arched mirrors with cherry frames adorn its Lincrusta-covered walls.  Intricate chandeliers, with dual fixtures for gas and electricity, emit a pleasing glow over the hundred-foot-long space.  Above it all, a vaulted ceiling rounds out the overall appearance of a posh Pullman dining car from the Gilded Age.  This Downtown Brooklyn landmark has ushered in two new centuries and has served the likes of Diamond Jim Brady, Lillian Russell, Mae West, Fanny Brice, Jimmy Durante, and your humble Comestiblogger along the way.  Though the legendary Gage and Tollner has faded into history, its classic appointments, mirabile dictu, have been preserved.

Gage and Tollner's historic main dining room

The story begins in the City of Brooklyn, four years before the completion of the Great Bridge.  In 1879, Charles M. Gage opened an oyster and chop "eating house" at 302 Fulton Street.  A year later, he was joined by Eugene Tollner.  In 1892, Gage and Tollner's restaurant moved into a nearby four-story Italianate row house at 372-374 Fulton Street, where it remained until closing in 2004.

Dominated by seafood and steaks, the menu included such favorites as Crabmeat Dewey, Lobster Thermidor, Scallops Baltimore, and Soft Clams Chicago.  In the late 1980s, owner Peter Aschkenasy made an unprecedented change by hiring renowned chef Edna Lewis to give the old Brooklyn stalwart a Southern accent.  (Miss Lewis was one of the founders of the highly acclaimed Café Nicholson on Manhattan's East Side.)  The native Virginian's influences were evident in her down-home cookin' that included cornbread, catfish, and her famed Charleston-style she-crab soup.  In 1992, after five years as Gage and Tollner's executive chef, Miss Lewis retired.

In 1995, following a bank foreclosure, the restaurant shut down temporarily.  That year, Joseph Chirico purchased Gage and Tollner and became its final owner.  After an ambitious restoration, Brooklyn's most elegant eatery reopened in 1996.  Gay Nineties swank, however, was inconsistent with the changes that had taken place along Fulton Street.  Owing to "dragging" business, Mr. Chirico shuttered the venerable establishment six years ago on Valentine's Day.

Following the demise of G&T, T.G.I. Friday's took over the space and closed after only three years.  Prospects for the future were uncertain.  Could this address ever serve as a restaurant again?  The answer came nearly three years after Friday's departure, when a hat-wearing roast beef sandwich gave the old place a new lease on life.  On Thursday, 21 January 2010, Gage and Tollner's landmark doors were reopened as Arby's.  Yes, Arby's.

Takeout: Arby's Express at the old mahogany and marble bar

It's clear that times have changed.  Roast beef sandwiches and melts have replaced prime rib, lobster, and crab.  Meat is no longer presented before being cooked.  Counter clerks wearing bright-red Arby's T-shirts have taken the place of uniformed waiters sporting service emblems (a gold eagle represented 25 years; a gold star, five years; and a gold bar, one year).  Modern utilitarian furniture has displaced turn-of-the-century mahogany tables and bentwood chairs, and, of course, paper napkins now serve in place of white linens.

Despite the foregoing changes, the landmarked interior has managed to retain some of its earlier dignity.  This is undoubtedly the most impressive restaurant in the Arby's chain.  Though he won't discuss how much it cost to refurbish the dining room, franchisee Raymond Chera says he spent six months to reverse years of neglect.  He is encouraged by all the positive response to his new fast-food venture, calling the early enthusiasm "heartwarming."  If it takes roast beef sandwiches and toasted subs to preserve this space, even heartburn can be heartwarming.

Arby's

372 Fulton Street (between Jay St & Red Hook Ln), Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 643-1949

http://www.arbys.com/

By train: A,C,F to Jay St-Borough Hall; M,R to Lawrence St; 2,3 to Hoyt St; 4,5 to Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B38, B51, B52, B57, B61, B62, B65, B67, B75

Additional links:

Gage & Tollner Virtual Tour
NPR: Memories of Southern Chef Edna Lewis
NPR: The Life and Legacy of Southern Cook Edna Lewis
VIDEO: Fried Chicken and Sweet Potato Pie

Boston Wine Expo 2010

The nation's largest trade and consumer wine event took place this weekend at the nineteenth annual Boston Wine Expo.  Over 450 international and domestic wineries participated in this year's Grand Tasting.  With more than 1,800 wines to sample, I may have missed one or two.  I was rather surprised to see no representation from the Champagne region on this occasion.  Indeed, France seemed to be underrepresented overall.

Featured speakers included Kevin Zraly (keynote) of Windows on the World Wine School; Gary Vaynerchuk of WineLibraryTV.com; Gloria Maroti Frazee from Wine Spectator; and Leslie Sbrocco, award-winning author of "Adventures of a Thirsty Girl."

Boston Wine Expo

Seaport World Trade Center
200 Seaport Boulevard
Boston, MA   02210-2031

http://www.WineExpoBoston.com/

* * *

Upcoming Wine Events:

Washington, D.C. International Wine & Food Festival
February 13-14, 2010
http://www.DCWineFestival.com/

New York Wine Expo
February 26-28, 2010
http://www.NewYorkWineExpo.com/

Le Petit Marché's Bread and Butter

When this blog was a mere infant (not merely infantile), Le Petit Marché in Brooklyn Heights was the subject of an early post.  At that point, the Gallic bistro had been in business nearly a year-and-a-half and had shown considerable promise.  With the start of 2010, almost two years and numerous failed DOH inspections later, pain et beurre have given way to Bread and Butter, the restaurant's new appellation.  While the ownership has remained essentially the same, the management has been revamped, and the kitchen has seen the return of Rob Weiner, Le Petit Marché's original chef.  Presumably, the new team is hoping the old chef can recapture the success of the French bistro's early days.

In the new incarnation, French fare has been replaced by American comfort food in the form of Southern-fried chicken, burgers, mac 'n' cheese, and the like.  The prices are somewhat less comforting, however, and seem incongruous with the current economy.  While the food may be very good, I'm in no hurry to shell out $23 for short ribs, $18 for fried chicken, $14 for a hamburger, or $9 for New England clam chowder.

Bread and Butter

46 Henry Street (bet. Cranberry & Middagh Sts), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn

(718) 858-9605

http://bkbistro.com/

By train: A,C to High Street or 2,3 to Clark Street
By bus: B25 to Cranberry Street;
From Manhattan: B51 to Cadman Plaza

Istanbul in Brooklyn: güllüoğlu Baklava & Cafe

There's no better cure for a winter chill than dessert and a hot beverage from Güllüoğlu in Midwood, Brooklyn.  This elegant and cozy Turkish café entreats with over a dozen varieties of baklava and kadayif (shredded phyllo pastry).  Various other sweet and savory delights, such as böreği (layered pastry), poğaça (puff pastry), simit (annular sesame bread), acma (Turkish "bagel"), ay çöreği ("moon pastry," or Turkish "croissant"), and acibadem (bitter almond cookie), beckon as well.  And, of course, the obligatory Turkish Delight and Turkish coffee are available, too.

Güllüoğlu's (pronounced gü·lü·OH·loh, where ü represents the German ü or the French u sound) history dates back more than a century.  In 1871, using a recipe he'd acquired from a chef in Damascus, Güllü Çelebi met with sweet success when he introduced the people of Gaziantep, Turkey to baklava.  Five generations later, with an intervening move to Istanbul, the Güllü family continues to operate the business.  In 2005, the first American outpost was established as a franchise in Brooklyn.  To ensure quality and consistency, the stateside branch imports its products directly from the company's plant in Istanbul.  Pastries are frozen, vacuum-sealed, and shipped to Brooklyn, where a baker "trained in the Güllüoğlu tradition" prepares them fresh daily.

Special Baklava with Double Pistachio

It should be noted that, in addition to being one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Gaziantep is the pistachio capital of Turkey.  The green nut's influence is evident in Güllüoğlu's signature confections, which are crafted using the famed Boz pistachios from Barak.  In addition, all pastries are made with pure butter, churned from the milk of goats and sheep from Turkey's Urfa Sihan Plateau and Tektek Mountains.  As a result of the foregoing ingredients, the Special Baklava with Double Pistachio ($13.75 a pound) imparts a slight edge—a minutely subtle bitterness not found in the Greek varieties—that mitigates the confection's overall sweetness.  Thus, individual elements—phyllo, nuts, and honey—are more distinguishable on the palate and, as a whole, yield a tastier pastry.  While I may be tempted to have a typical piece of baklava once or twice a year, I find that a single pistachio-based serving just isn't enough.  The stuff is addictive.  Baklava is simply more enjoyable when its sweetness does not overwhelm.

Sahlep

Either with dessert or by itself, a steaming cup of sahlep (sometimes spelled salep) can be particularly fortifying on a cold winter's day.  In Turkey, it is often used as a remedy for coughs and sore throats.  This seasonal beverage is produced from ground, dried tubers of the Anatolian mountain orchid (Orchis latifolia, also called sahlep).  The powdered roots are heated with milk and sugar, and dusted with cinnamon, to yield a pleasantly sweet, creamy concoction.  Its nearly mucilaginous consistency derives from a nutritious, starch-like substance in the orchid's tubers, called Bassorin.  Though it may feel a bit unusual on the tongue, sahlep is a most delicious and satisfying beverage.

güllüoğlu Baklava & Cafe

1985 Coney Island Avenue (between Av P & Quentin Rd), Midwood, Brooklyn

Open daily, 7:00 A.M. till 10:00 P.M.

(718) 645-1822

http://www.gulluoglubaklava.com/

By train: B,Q to Kings Highway
By bus: B7 (daytime), B68, B82

Memo re: Turkish Shish Kebab and Gyro in Midwood

On a recent bone-chilling day, a ravenous Comestaccomplice stopped by and suggested we eat something "warm and hearty."  Knowing how much she likes lamb, I asked, "How about Turkish?"  She knew immediately what I had in mind: Memo Shish Kebab in Midwood, Brooklyn.  My erstwhile super, a Turk, introduced me to this marvelous Mediterranean eatery several years ago.  It has remained my favorite place for doner (gyro) ever since.

Babaghanoush/Patlican Ezmesi

Our meal began with a generous, "small" portion ($5 small/$8 large) of patlican ezmesi (babaghanoush), a delicious purée of eggplant, prepared with tahini (sesame paste), olive oil, onion, and garlic.  Its delightful smokiness distinguishes it from similar preparations I've tried.  Memo's home bread—a soft, round, seeded flatbread—made a splendid companion.  We were off to a great start.

Lamb Gyro/Doner

Having tried a number of dishes, including the highly recommended Iskender kebab (a seasonal offering, featuring a lightly hot tomato sauce), I continue to prefer the lamb doner (pronounced doh·NAIR) to all the rest.  Memo's exquisitely seasoned ground lamb, cooked on a spit over charcoal, is among the most flavorful I've tasted.  The fresh spices, together with the accompanying cacik and spicy red sauce, yield an harmonious gustatory union.  On this visit, I ordered my favorite: a large portion of the #4 Lamb Gyro/Doner.  Whether served as a platter ($8/$13) or as a sandwich ($6/$7), this is one tasty viand.

Lamb Gyro sandwich on Home Bread

My Comestaccomplice raved about the succulence of her #2 Shish Kebab ($8.5/$13).  (She was quick to concede that her numerous kebab efforts have never produced the same degree of moistness.)  Rather than overwhelming the charcoal-grilled chunks of lamb, the marinade is subtle enough to reveal the rich flavors of the meat, yet savory enough to obviate the need for additional seasoning.  While shish kebab is normally served with rice, my dining partner opted for "pretty good" French-fried potatoes instead.

Shish Kebab

Although the menu lists baklava and puddings under the heading, "DESERT/TATLILAR," I had another place in mind for dessert: a little Turkish café not far away.  (Ah, but that's the subject of another post.)

Memo underwent an expansion a few years ago.  Though still somewhat spare, the larger space is comfortable and inviting.  Its true appeal, however, continues to be the appetizing redolence of grilled meat and fresh spices.

Memo Shish Kebab

1821 Kings Highway (NW corner E. 19^th St), Midwood, Brooklyn

(718) 339-8001
(718) 306-5227

Open daily, 11:00 A.M. till 11:00 P.M.

By train: B,Q to Kings Highway
By bus: B7 (daytime), B82, B100

New Year's Eve Cotechino con Lenticchie

No Italian New Year's Eve dinner is complete without Cotechino con Lenticchie, a traditional dish of lentils and fresh pork sausage.  Symbolizing coins, lentils are believed to bring luck and prosperity for the coming year.  Cotechino (pronounced koh·teh·KEE·no) is a mild, fatty sausage of considerable girth (roughly three inches in diameter).  It is made from coteca (pork rind) and meat from the cheek, neck, and shoulder, and seasoned delicately with clove, nutmeg, salt, and pepper.  The resulting sausage is very soft—almost to the point of being creamy.

My pre-New Year's Eve sample of this holiday classic came in the form of a warm bowl of Umbrian lentil soup with cotechino.  Will it bring me prosperity early?

Felice Anno Nuovo!

Bubbly Tastings December 29-31, 2009

Indulge your champagne taste at one or more of these free bubbly tastings:

Tuesday, 29 December:

Candoni tasting

This tasting features two Italian sparklers from Candoni: the delicate, fruity Prosecco; and the more sweet, less alcoholic, frizzante Moscato D'Italia.

Long's Wines & Liquors

7917 5^th Avenue (between 79^th & 80^th Sts), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

(718) 748-6505

http://www.longswines.com/

By train: R to 77^th Street
By bus: B63

Under $22 tasting

Five affordable sparklers "off-the-beaten-path" will be poured at The Greene Grape's two stores.

The Greene Grape

http://blog.greenegrape.com/

Brooklyn:

765 Fulton Street (between S Portland Av & S Oxford St), Fort Greene

(718) 797-9463

http://brooklyn.greenegrape.com/

By train: C to Lafayette Av; G to Fulton St
By bus: B25, B26, B52

Manhattan:

55 Liberty Street (NE corner Liberty Pl), Financial District

(212) 406-9463

http://downtown.greenegrape.com/

By train: 2,3 (IRT) to Wall St; 4,5 (IRT),J,M,Z (BMT) to Fulton St; A,C to Broadway-Nassau
By bus: M1, M6

Tasting times at both stores:  5:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

Wednesday, 30 December:

Grower Sparklers

Discover why the folks at The Greene Grape believe that "champagne from those who both grow their grapes and bottle their juice is superior to negociant champagne."  Five grower sparklers will be poured at The Greene Grape's two stores.

The Greene Grape

See above for locations and directions.
5:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

Thursday, 31 December:

Roederer tasting

Heather Hamilton at Long's Wines in Brooklyn invites you to compare the citrus and apple flavors of the French Louis Roederer Brut Premier (91 points—Wine Enthusiast) with the pear, spice, and hazelnut flavors of the American Roederer Estate Brut.

Long's Wines & Liquors

2:00 P.M. to 5:00 P.M.  Free.

Cheers!

"Seasoned" Greetings 2009

Helping the Food Bank for the Holidays

Since 1983, The Food Bank For New York City has devoted itself to ending hunger through various programs designed to provide emergency food assistance, information, and support "for community survival and dignity."  An independent, non-profit organization, the Food Bank procures and distributes comestibles to a network comprising roughly 1,000 food assistance programs throughout the city.

With the number of needy New Yorkers having doubled to some four million over the past six years, the Food Bank's donated food assets have reached an unprecedented low.  Regardless of your views concerning recent bailouts of financial institutions, this bank could really use your help.

Food Bank For New York City

39 Broadway, 10^th Floor
New York, N.Y.   10006

(212) 566-7855

http://www.foodbanknyc.org/

Thanksgiving, Calvados, and the Trou Normand

Today we give thanks and celebrate the bounty of the harvest.  To those expecting to feast heartily, may I suggest punctuating your meal with a trou normand (pronounced true nor·MAHN; literally, "Norman hole")?  At a certain stage of a grand dinner in Normandy, it was customary to pause for a glass of calvados to boost the metabolism and create a "hole" to make room for additional comestibles.  Nothing prolongs the pleasures of overindulgence more than a good shot of calva.

Calvados (pronounced cull·vah·DOSE) takes its name from the eponymous département in the northwest of France, a region that does not produce wine.  Normandy's rich pastures and orchards are better suited to dairy farming and apple growing than to viticulture.  Apples have a lengthy history in this area: cider dates back to the eighth century, long before its first documented distillation in 1553.

Although best known as an apple (cider) brandy, calvados can, by law, be produced from apples or pears.  Over 200 types of apple—ranging from sweet to inedibly tart—are permitted in its production.  The fruit is harvested, pressed, and allowed to ferment (four to six weeks) into a dry cider, whereupon, it is distilled and aged.

As with grape brandies, calvados is protected by its own appellations.  Pays d'Auge, the premier appellation contrôlée designation, applies to the core of the apple brandy production area, and continues to yield the highest-quality calvados.  Second-tier appellations refer to areas surrounding the Pays d'Auge.  The biggest difference is that Pays d'Auge cider must undergo a double distillation in a pot still, whereas others typically go through a single, continuous distillation in a column still.  The former method yields more flavor and complexity, while the latter produces a lighter, more apple-like flavor.

Age is a matter of taste and budget, of course.  Nevertheless, the older the calvados, the smoother and rounder it tends to be.  The age given on the bottle refers to the youngest component in the blend.  The following is a guide to age-related terms found on labels:

 ·  Trois étoiles, ***  (2 years)
 ·  Vieux, Réserve  (3 years)
 ·  VO, VSOP, Vieille Réserve  (4 years)
 ·  XO, Extra, Napoléon, Hors d'Âge,
     Age Inconnu  (6 years)

My personal favorite comes from Château du Breuil, in the Pays d'Auge.  The Réserve des Seigneurs - XO and, especially, the Royal are among the smoothest, richest, most complex I've tasted.  Their deep, dark color makes no secret of old age.  It's well worth spending a little more for a more mature brandy.  Regardless of your choice, a good calvados makes the perfect digestif—tried and trou Normand.  Santé!

 

 

Misspellings on the Menu at the State Dinner

Anahad O'Connor of The Caucus, the politics and government blog of The New York Times, reported that a number of spelling errors appeared on the menu at President Obama's state dinner last night.  Among the mistakes: a reference to a wine from Oregon's Wilamette (instead of Willamette) Valley; a description of a dish made with chick peas (instead of chickpeas); and the unhyphenated name of Thibaut Janisson Brut, a Virginia sparkling chardonnay.

The author also condemned the misspelling of Grenache as follows: "The correct spelling of the popular varietal, one of the most widely planted types of red grape in the world, is actually 'Grenache' with only one 'a,' not two."  Sorry, Mr. O'Connor, but Grenache, when described as a type of grape, is correctly called a variety, not a varietal.  (The wine produced from the grape variety is the varietal.)  If you're going to split hairs, at least try to use the proper terminology.

Fat Franks—The Wurst Place in Bellows Falls, Vermont

Fat Franks, the self-proclaimed Wurst Place in Bellows Falls, is a place to relish.  Anyone can serve a hot dog, but not everyone can do it right.  This little place offers perfectly prepared frankfurters, sausages, and burgers in a clean, friendly, and welcoming environment.  Though the franks and such are not made here, their provenance is local and regional.  To wit, the bacon and most of the smoked sausages come from nearby Claremont, New Hampshire, while the wienies and other wursts come from Boston, Springfield, and Mattapan, Massachusetts.  Even the ale used to poach the knackwurst and bratwurst hails from Vermont's own Long Trail Brewing Company.

Proprietor Jim Mort with daughter Lila

Begun some three-and-a-half years ago, this excellent wurst venture was a result of some compelling circumstances.  While Jim Mort was growing dissatisfied with his job, a Chinese restaurant, the sole tenant of his building next to Miss Bellows Falls Diner, closed and vacated the premises.  The time was right for his embarkation into the man-eat-dog world of wieners.

Visitors to this Bellows Falls wienery can enjoy their red hots in three of the wurst ways: eat-in, take-home, or self-serve.  Perusal of the comprehensive menu reveals every manner of encased meat imaginable, including lamb, chicken, andouille, and Italian sausages, kielbasy, and German-style würste.  Each of the seven types of sausage is smothered in its own perfectly matched sauce-and-veggie concoction.  For the dogs, at least 15 toppings are available, along with several sides such as hand-cut Russet fries (with optional chili and cheese), homemade coleslaw, and beans laced with maple syrup.  Beyond the wurst, Fat Franks offers seven-ounce beef burgers (as well as turkey and vegetable varieties), also prepared in seemingly infinite ways.  For those who prefer a doggie bag, three sizes of frankfurter—Everyday, Skinny, and Fat—are sold by the pound, along with the aforementioned bacon and sausages.  One can even purchase the perennially popular Sabrett's sauerkraut by the bag.  Finally, to satisfy stomachs growling for a quick bite, there's the self-service steam table at which one can dress up a so-called Everyday Dog in fine fashion.  This is how my Comestaccomplice and I sampled the best of the wurst.

The Everyday Dog’s meaty flavor and proper "snap" reflect Fat Franks' attention to quality.  Though not all the menu's add-ons are available here, the superior toppings and condiments more than adequately round out a truly delicious experience.  While this New Yorker has grown accustomed to Sabrett's sauerkraut (and was pleased to see it among the self-service offerings), I've never enjoyed a tastier, spicier (homemade) chili topping anywhere.  In addition, the well-chosen Raye's Stone Mill Mustards from Maine afford a deeply-flavored sauce for every sausage.  Lastly, to help tame the dogs, beer and wine are available.

Frankly speaking, in the world of wursts, this place is a wiener.

Fat Franks

92 Rockingham Street
Bellows Falls, VT   05101-1316

(802) 463-4388

http://fat-franks.com/

By train: Amtrak's Vermonter to Bellows Falls, VT (BLF)

Free Kentucky Grilled Chicken ... Again!

Can KFC do a grilled chicken giveaway right this time?  Find out for yourself today, Monday, 26 October 2009 when participating restaurants offer one free piece of Kentucky Grilled Chicken per person.

I have to admit that the Colonel's grilled samples were hot, succulent, and very tasty.

http://www.KFC.com/

Red Hooked on Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies

Were the name Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies not already sufficiently long, the term Old-Fashioned could be wedged in.  Steve Tarpin grew up around Key limes and knows what it takes to make a good, traditional pie therefrom.  Because of his unending disappointment with commercial varieties, the Florida woodworker-carpenter decided to bake his own Key lime pies at home for family and friends.  That was over 30 years ago.  Roughly a decade later, Tarpin came to New York from his native Miami to work with a friend.  After an injury in 1995 left him unemployed, a fortuitous meeting led Tarpin to hammer out a new career.  It was at a barbecue of the Red Meat Club that Steve's pies drew the favorable attention of a Manhattan restaurateur.  From an initial order of three pies, Steve's Authentic was born.

As business increased, so did the need for a capacious delivery vehicle.  Tarpin's purchase of a '53 Ford F-100 Flathead V8 embodied utility and marketing savvy.  The unmistakable pale yellow truck turned heads everywhere it went.  Needless to say, the Key Lime Express accelerated press coverage and helped to drive up sales.  Though mainly out of the limelight now, the truck still greets visitors to Steve's at Pier 41 in Red Hook.

One might say the quirky 50-something adheres to his own version of the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Steve.  (Even his surname is a simplification of the Armenian Tarpinian.)  Five ingredients—pasteurized egg yolks, sweetened condensed milk, butter, graham crackers, and Key limes—comprise his sole product.  Though the recipe may sound simple, the key to its authenticity is in the limes and in the preparation.

Steve's pies are made with freshly squeezed juice from true Key limes that his supplier ships to him every few weeks.  (Key limes are smaller and more acidic than the Persian variety typically found in grocery stores.)  No bottled juice or concentrate is ever used.  Furthermore, the pies are not baked.  Rather, they are "filled and chilled" to preserve the integrity of the lime juice as well as the consistency of the filling.  And because no coloring is added, the filling's pale yellowish hue remains faithful to the fruit.  Though a little sweeter than I'd prefer, the resulting confection is creamy and quite tasty.

Steve's wares are available in three sizes: 10-inch and 8-inch pies ($25 and $15, respectively), and a 4-inch tart ($4).  Several years ago, the Swingle ($5), a variation of an ice cream bar, was added to the offerings.  This unique warm-weather treat was named in honor of Dr. Walter Tennyson Swingle (1871–1952), the American agricultural botanist who categorized the Key lime (Citrus aurantifolia).  It's a 4-inch tart on a stick, dipped into melted chocolate, and frozen.  Tarpin uses Belcolade, a dark chocolate from Belgium.  As with other Belgian varieties, this one is overly sweet and thus overpowers the crisp, key lime flavors it envelops.  While the cacao adds an interesting twist, a thinner coating or a less sweet variant (from fellow Brooklynite Jacques Torres, perhaps?) would yield a better balance of flavors.  I wish a naked Swingle, sans chocolate, were available.

Although recent changes, including the openings of Fairway and IKEA, have drawn an influx of new residents and visitors to Red Hook, Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies remains off the beaten path.  The entire operation is run from a Civil War-era warehouse on the waterfront.  The bakery, small retail shop, and outdoor patio provide a laid-back setting far more reminiscent of South Florida than of South Brooklyn.  Nestled among tropical plants and a mechanical waterfall, the outdoor seating area affords a relaxing spot in which to enjoy a Swingle or a tart while sipping a Key Limonade ($2).  Spectacular vistas of the harbor and the Statue of Liberty are to be had just around the corner.  Though a considerable distance from the nearest subway line, it's worth a trip to Steve's for an authentic, old-fashioned, taste of the Sunshine State.

Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies

204 Van Dyke Street (at Barnell St), Pier 41, Red Hook, Brooklyn

(718) 858-5333
(888) 450-LIME (5463)

http://www.stevesauthentic.com/
http://www.keylime.com/

By bus: B61, B77

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Curtis' Bar·B·Q: Smoke and (Bus) Mirrors in Putney, Vermont

Were it not for the billowing smoke and hunger-inducing aromas wafting though the air, it would be easy to miss the two blue school buses that house "The 9^th Wonder of the World."  Curtis' Bar·B·Q, just up the hill from exit 4 on Interstate 91 in Vermont, is in its 41^st season of serving southern-style barbecue in the quaint village of Putney.  Over the years, this seasonal, unassuming stand has garnered a loyal following not just locally, but well beyond these verdant hills as well.

What brings people back season after season?  The answer begins with the man behind the grill.  Curtis Tuff, a native of Macomb, Georgia, was a migrant farm worker who followed harvests from Florida to New England.  In 1961, Curtis' itinerancy came to an end, however, when he found steady work picking apples for the Darrow family at Green Mountain Orchards in Putney.  To augment his income, Tuff used his know-how to prepare pig roasts for special events at area schools.  Using temporary cooking pits he fashioned from cement blocks, as well as a sauce based on his grandfather's recipe, Curtis gradually introduced Vermonters to real southern barbecue.  It wasn't long before word-of-mouth generated consistent demand for his cooking.

The aforementioned cement blocks proved unwieldy and short-lived, however.  That's where the school buses entered the scene.  Employing a little Yankee ingenuity, the Southerner outfitted the vehicles with a fire pit crafted from a 275-gallon oil drum, halved lengthwise, and vented through the roof with stove pipes and a fan.

By 1968, Curtis' Bar·B·Q was a going concern.  With his newfound grilling mobility, Tuff took his barbecue act on the road to nearby locales including a number of school campuses.  His popularity among lucubratory students earned him the unofficial title of "The 9th Wonder of the World," a slogan he uses to this day.

The limited menu of pork ribs and chicken hasn't changed much over the years.  Nevertheless, it was enough to draw the attention of The New York Times, whose favorable, 1988 article helped Tuff find permanent parking spots for his blue school buses.  The newer bus serves as the main stand, with a small counter and two of its windows flipped up to accommodate customer orders and pickups.  To the right, under a corrugated metal roof, the affable, 72-year-old Curtis Tuff can be seen grilling meats amid clouds of smoke.  He still uses his halved oil drums, now mounted atop an old hay wagon.

Service seems to be instantaneous.  I scarcely had time to put away my change when my order was ready.  Seating is available at picnic tables that flank the unpaved parking lot.  A new open-sided picnic shed seems somehow out of place.  Though it is the only structure on the premises that does not appear ramshackle (or perhaps because of that), the older seating area with umbrellas—nearer the road—tends to be more popular.

Cooking time is roughly 80 minutes for a slab of ribs; 90 minutes for a three-pound chicken.  Curtis refuses to use charcoal, opting, instead, for hardwoods—which include, of course, maple.  The meat is done to perfection, its succulence imbued with a rich, sweet, smoky flavor.  Though the barbecue sauce delivers the right amount of heat, its tang verges on being overly vinegary.  The flavor reminds me somewhat of Tabasco®.  There's a practical reason for the acidity, however.  Because the recipe predates the advent of refrigeration, vinegar was added as a preservative.

Small portion (2) of Ribs

Although barbecue may not be the first thing that comes to mind when visiting the Green Mountain State, Curtis' quality and convenience make this a perfect stop for a quick bite while leaf-peeping.  The experience is quite satisfying.  While wiping his mouth and preparing to leave, a person at the next table declared, "Another great meal!"

Curtis' Bar·B·Q

7 Putney Landing Road (I-91, exit 4)
Putney, VT   05346

(802) 387-5474

Open April through October, 10:00 A.M till dusk.  Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

http://www.curtisbbqvt.com/

Pals Cabin Steaks Its Claim in West Orange

Not so many restaurants can boast of a history as long as that of Pals Cabin in West Orange, New Jersey.  This "heritage of hospitality" began as a summertime venture by two friends during the Great Depression.  Martin L. Horn and Bion LeRoy Sale obtained permission to squat on a bank-foreclosed property at the busy intersection of Prospect and Eagle Rock Avenues.  On 18 May 1932, "Marty" and "Roy," as they were known, began selling 10-cent hot dogs from a 10-by-12-foot stand they had constructed.  "It was better than selling apples on a street corner," Martin Horn was wont to say.

Following their initial success, the pals enclosed the hot dog stand as the first of many expansions to their cabin.  Within three years, Pals Special, a highly popular 50-cent charcoal-broiled steak, was added to the menu.  By 1936, Pals Cabin had become a full-service restaurant, and the price of its signature steak had risen to 75 cents.  Numerous additions over the years have resulted in the current space—a vast edifice that reveals little of the restaurant's humble beginnings.

Pals offers several areas in which to dine and unwind, including the Tap Room, the formal Winchester Room, the counter, and The Cabin.  With its high ceiling, exposed beams, stone walls, and capacious wooden booths, The Cabin is the restaurant's core and mainstay.  Were its scale not quite so grand, one might consider it cozy.  But let's just call it very comfortable.

The Cabin

Occupying a category between family and formal, this was the sort of place at which I seldom dined as a young child.  Any gustatory recollections of Pals Cabin derive from my so-called adulthood.  My earliest impressions were based more on fantasy and speculation than on direct experience.  I remember it as a prominent landmark that stood across Eagle Rock Avenue from the now-defunct Korvette City, a large shopping center that my family frequented.  In certain respects, however, Pals does evoke childhood memories of dining out.  The service, in particular, is reminiscent of my early years.  It is extremely gracious without being affected or overly formal.  There appears to be none of the trite, artificial familiarity that has become so inexplicably fashionable these days.  Instead, the demeanor of the staff is warmly polite, yet conservatively respectful.  It comes as a refreshing change not to be addressed as, "you guys."   Perhaps it is this old-fashioned deportment that most reminds me of dinners out as a child.

Pals Famous Cream of Mushroom Soup

Among the 15 starters on the menu, one is a must: Pals' velvety, justly famous, Cream of Mushroom Soup ($5.50).  Its rich velouté of roux and chicken stock, combined with an abundance of chopped, sautéed mushrooms and finely chopped shallots, is irresistible.  I order it without fail.  Many soups of this sort emphasize cream at the expense of a deep mushroom flavor in the broth.  Pals', however, offers both the cream and the rich, earthy flavor I seek.  It's easy to understand why this award-winning soup continues to be a customer favorite after more than seven decades.

Included with my main course was Pals' double salad, a somewhat ordinary bowl of tossed greens with croutons.  The homemade bleu cheese dressing continues to be the best option.

Hungarian Goulash

My Comestaccomplice and I both ordered the Hungarian Goulash over egg noodles ($19.95) as our main dish.  The recipe of is said to have been "handed down from generations of the Horn family."  To be honest, it could have been stewed—but even more critically, allowed to marinate—significantly longer.  Although the flavors were very fresh, the cabernet-infused sauce was noticeably under-salted.  Furthermore, the cuts of beef were slightly tough and not optimally integrated with the sauce.  The goulash should have been prepared at least a day in advance, and cooked till the meat opened up to allow the sauce to tenderize each chunk.  Tenderization occurs only when the meat is permitted to rest awhile; the longer it sits, the more flavor permeates each grain.  The portion, incidentally, was so large that my Comestaccomplice took home most of hers.  The leftover goulash lasted her three days, a period during which it developed an increasingly deep and rich flavor.  By the third day, it was a remarkably good goulash!

After dinner, we took a stroll down memory lane.  In the lower entryway, and scattered elsewhere in the restaurant, the walls are adorned with photographs, menus, and other mementos from Pals' early days.  Among the memorabilia is a bill, from the 1940s, promoting a "sensational young pianist" named Walter Liberace who played the baby grand here for his supper and $50 a week.

Please click on an image above to view an early Pals menu.

The steaks are higher nowadays, as are the hot dogs.  Today, Pals Famous New York strip steak costs $30.95 for an 18-ounce serving; 25.95 for a 14-ounce cut.  A foot-long frankfurter now sells for $7.95.  Though times have clearly changed since the two pals sold hot dogs from their small cabin, this venerable eating establishment continues to draw diners from near and far.  With Martin Horn's grandchildren currently at the helm, Pals Cabin is in its third generation and eighth decade of family ownership.  Who would have imagined that a summer venture would have produced such a legacy?

Pals Cabin

265 Prospect Avenue (SW corner Eagle Rock Av)
West Orange, N.J.   07052-4205

(973) 731-4000

http://www.palscabin.com/

By bus: 71 (West Caldwell) to Woodhull Av

Restaurant Weeks in August 2009

Baltimore Summer Restaurant Week starts today, Fryday, and highlights "a different kind of delicious daily" through Dim Sumday, 16 August.  Over 90 restaurants offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $20.09 for lunch and $30.09 for dinner (excluding beverages, taxes, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.baltimorerestaurantweek.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants and to make reservations.

Up the Eastern seaboard, Restaurant Week Boston® offers a fortnight—Sunday through Friday, 9-14 & 16-21 August—of discounted dining at more than 200 restaurants in the Greater Boston area.  Prix fixe options include two-course lunches for $15.09, three-course lunches for $20.09, and three-course dinners for $33.09 per person (excluding beverages, taxes, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.BostonUSA.com/RestaurantWeek or call (888) 733-2678 for a list of participating restaurants.

West Orange Pancake House—a Gusta-Tory Corner Diner

During my early years in West Orange, New Jersey, our family often ate at some of the area's various beaneries.  They weren't all that good or bad, they were simply all I knew.  Most of the old places have long since closed or disappeared altogether.  It was most saddening, for instance, to discover the Claremont Diner and the White Castle in Verona had made way for an automotive dealership.  There is, however, an extant relic from my childhood at Tory Corner, just a few blocks up Main Street from Thomas Edison National Historical Park.  The West Orange Pancake House and Diner, mirabile dictu, continues to serve decent victuals, and now does so round-the-clock, seven days a week.

I knew this 1950s-era stainless steel edifice as the Tory Corner Diner, the initials of which remain inlaid on the floor of its vestibule.  Aside from the name and a few cosmetic updates, little else appears to have changed over the years.  Looking at this place evokes childhood memories of black-and-white television sets, named telephone exchanges (ours was REdwood), drugstores with soda fountains, and life before the Essex Freeway (I-280).  After a warm, enthusiastic welcome from owner Paul Mihalitsianos and his son, Gerry, what could be finer than eating in this diner again after so many years?

While it seems that diners typically offer extensive menus, this one's is so vast as to make it difficult to make a selection.  Its 15 pages offer everything from appetizers to "fantastic finishes."  Though several items entreated, I felt as though I'd discover something even more appealing the moment I placed my order.

West Orange Special

Listed under Sandwiches Paul's Way, my West Orange Special ($11.95)—sliced London broil on garlic bread with lettuce and tomato—was a standout.  The broiled meat was seasoned with a heavy hand, which, under most circumstances could have ruined it.  But the cook understood the fat content and age of the cut with masterly precision.  As a result, the spices were on target for maximizing this steak’s succulence and flavor.  I’ve been served beef in very fine restaurants that was analyzed and prepared with far less skill than it was here.  The accompanying thickly cut onion rings were quite all right, but the reconstituted french fried potatoes failed to measure up to the taste and quality of their plate partners.

Harold's New York-style Deli Sandwich

Harold's New York-style corned beef sandwich ($12.95), my Comestaccomplice's selection, was advertised as the best available.  (Namesake Harold Jaffe once operated the aforementioned Claremont Diner as well as New York's Carnegie Deli.)  Extremely lean and flavorful, the corned beef was piled high between two slices of rye bread and served on a platter that was as almost as big as the menu itself.  While it was very tasty indeed, the corned beef was also somewhat dry—perhaps owing to its leanness.  Fortunately, the accompanying coleslaw and half-sours, both excellent, added welcome moisture between meaty mouthfuls.  The garlic bread was yet another very tasty side.

Comfort food somehow seems even more comforting when consumed in a familiar environment.  Though I don't return to West Orange often, it's reassuring to know I can still revisit a "living" childhood memory here.

West Orange Pancake House and Diner

270 Main Street (between Prospect Pl & Kling St)
West Orange, N.J.   07052-5617  (map)

(973) 736-8333

By bus: 21 (Main Street) to Kling St

* * *

Special thanks to Michelle Colombaris Berger for sharing the following memories from the days her family owned the Tory Corner Diner:  (Please click on any image to enlarge it.)

"My dad used to tell a story about a family trip we made to Canada in the 60's.  When we got there and checked into the motel there was a book of matches from our diner sitting in the ashtray in the motel room!!!!"

"The two men are my dad, Nicholas Colombaris and an unknown.  The pic is dated May 1962, the year that West Orange celebrated its centennial.  There was a parade and many men grew beards and marched as the Brothers of the Bush (or Brush)."

"Nicholas Colombaris, my dad, sitting in his favorite booth.  This was right inside the front door on the Main Street side of the building."

Smooth, Citrusy, Summertime Lemonade

With the arrival of the summer's heat and humidity, how does a refreshing, ice-cold glass of lemonade sound?  My high-octane variant of the summertime favorite combines vodka, limoncello, fresh lemon juice, and seltzer to produce a refreshing, effervescent cooler.

My spirituous selections include the citrus-flavored Absolut Citron Swedish vodka and Sogno di Sorrento™ Lemoncello made from I.G.P. Amalfi Coast lemons.  While plain seltzer is fine, lemon seltzer is preferable.  In any case, it's best to avoid club soda.

Comestiblog Lemonade (or Lemon Fizz):

1½ ounces Absolut Citron
2½ ounces Sogno di Sorrento™ Lemoncello
3 ounces lemon seltzer
Juice of 1½ lemons

Stir, add ice, and serve.  Garnish with a slice of lemon.  (Not to be served at a lemonade stand without proper license.)

http://www.sognodisorrento.com/
http://www.absolut.com/

Chez Oskar Night

Dine-In Brooklyn was winding down, it was rainy, dark, and becoming late.  Where to eat?  Several unsuccessful attempts to score a last-minute reservation ultimately led to an enthusiastic availability at Chez Oskar in Fort Greene.  I'd passed the French-style bistro on several occasions but never paid it much heed.  But what the heck?  The situation was becoming desperate enough to warrant a $23 gamble.

Chez Oskar is a lively place that seems quite at home in this diverse neighborhood.  It could best be described as a bistro à la Brooklyn—casual, funky, and comfortable.  The service is friendly and the food is good, but I'd restrain any praise beyond that.

Country Pâté

I seldom surrender to cravings involving cholesterol-laden foods, but the Country Pâté sounded the most promising among the five starters on the restaurant-week menu.  Though the presentation was attractive, the taste failed to live up to the promise.  Bland and uninspired, this dish made me rue my dietary transgression.  It's a pity that the comparably priced escargots or the slightly more expensive salmon-and-tuna tartare were not offered.  Perhaps they would have made a better first impression.

Lamb Shank

The five main course offerings—comprising fish, chicken, lamb, beef, and mushroom risotto—were ostensibly well-chosen, appealing to a broad array of tastes.  Owing to the weather, I ordered the Lamb Shank to help defend against the chill that awaited me outside.  The meat, tender enough to fall off the bone, was served with fingerling potatoes, artichokes, sautéed endives, and pomegranate sauce.  The resulting concoction tasted much like a lamb stew.  While not bad, it was unremarkable and rather ordinary.   Statistically speaking, it seemed fitting that, among les plats of my two Comestaccomplices, mine ranked squarely in the middle.

Free Range Chicken

As at Pó Brooklyn, the fowl was a better choice here.  The Free Range Chicken with pancetta-potato gratin, caramelized onions, fava beans, and red wine sauce was rather tasty, albeit unexceptional.  Instead of educing flavor from the chicken, however, the sauce's role was reduced to that of an inoffensive, unassuming accompaniment to the bird.  It was a pleasant dish that would have benefited from a more aggressive sauce.  Perhaps I was foolishly expecting something a bit more akin to a coq au vin.

Lemon and Garlic Crusted Codfish

The Lemon-and-Garlic Crusted Codfish was the weakest of the main courses I sampled.  Served with poached leeks, potato crisp, and whole grain mustard vinaigrette, this offering could be aptly described as an insipid piece of fish with a few embellishments.  Unfortunately, its plate mates were too bland to rescue the foundering cod.

Sweet Apple Crêpes

Desserts were commensurate with the courses that preceded them—lots of promise unfulfilled.  I'm not sure why I had high hopes for the Sweet Apple Crêpes.  They certainly looked good.  The dry, flavorless pancakes with caramelized apples left me as cold as the accompanying cinnamon ice cream, however.  Although the Warm Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream was slightly better, it failed to catapult my taste buds into cacao ether.  None of us was tempted by the Mango Crème Caramel.

Warm Chocolate Cake

Unfortunately, none of our dishes seemed to cross the threshold that separates the extraordinary from the ordinary.  Most of the flavors failed to soar and some never even managed to take flight.  Nevertheless, Chez Oskar's following has continued to keep it afloat since 1998.  In terms of the $23 gamble, we probably broke even.  This is a good neighborhood bistro, but scarcely worth a trip on the G train.

Chez Oskar

211 Dekalb Avenue (NE corner Adelphi St), Fort Greene, Brooklyn

(718) 852-6250

http://www.chezoskar.com/

By train: G to Clinton-Washington Avs (exit at Clinton Av)
By bus: B38, B69

Restaurant Weeks in July 2009

NYC Restaurant Week™ Summer 2009 starts today and continues through the end of the month.  The "week" actually spans three weeks—12-31 July—and includes over 250 New York City restaurants.  Three courses cost $24.07 for lunch and $35 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://nycgo.com/restaurantweek to view the list of participating restaurants and their menus, and to make reservations.

Update: NYC Restaurant Week™ has been extended through Labor Day.

Up the coast, Providence Restaurant WeekS also starts today and will run through 25 July.  Over 75 restaurants will offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $12.95 for lunch and $29.95 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.providencerestaurantweeks.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants.

Storm These Bastille Day Comestevents 2009

Liberté, égalité, and fraternité will be celebrated slightly early again in Gotham this year.

Manhattan

On Sunday, 12 July, from 12:00 Noon till 6:00 P.M., everyone is invited to celebrate Bastille Day on 60^th Street, New York's "street fair with French flair."  The three-block fête takes place between Fifth and Lexington Avenues.  Enjoy Gallic delicacies at one of the many pique-nique tables provided.

Bastille Day on 60^th Street

http://www.bastilledaynyc.com/

By train: N,R,W to 5^th Avenue or Lexington Avenue; 4,5,6 to 59^th Street

On Tuesday, 14 July, le quatorze juillet, Cercle Rouge brings Bastille Day festivities to TriBeCa.  From 12:00 Noon till 8:00 P.M., pétanque sand courts, football de table (foosball), and entertainment will fill the block on West Broadway between Beach and White Streets.  Mangez traditional merguez sausages and frites while sipping Lillet, Deutz champagne, or another favorite libation.

Cercle Rouge
241 West Broadway (opposite N Moore St)
(212) 226-6252
http://www.cerclerougeresto.com/

By train: A,C,E to Canal St; 1 to Franklin St

Brooklyn

On Sunday, Smith Street becomes Rue Smith when it hosts Brooklyn's Bastille Day festivities.  Both Bar Tabac and Provence en Boîte will hold all-day celebrations featuring French food, drink, and pétanque tournaments.

Bar Tabac
128 Smith Street (SW corner Dean St)
(718) 923-0918
http://www.bartabacny.com/

Provence en Boîte
263 Smith Street (NE corner Degraw St)
(718) 797-0707
http://www.provenceenboite.com/

By train: F,G to Bergen Street

Comestevents for July 4th Weekend, 2009

If a cookout or picnic is not on your schedule for this Independence Day weekend, you may wish to try one of the following food events:

Saturday, 4 July:

The Great July 4^th Festival

This annual street fair features various ethnic foods as well as games, arts, crafts, apparel, and other merchandise.

Water Street (between Fulton & Broad Streets), Lower Manhattan
10:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(212) 809-4900

http://www.nycstreetfairs.com/

By train: R,W to Whitehall St; 2,3 to Wall St; A,C to Broadway-Nassau
By bus: M1, M6, M9, M15

Other street fairs:

Stone Street Fourth of July Celebration (between Hanover Square & Coenties Alley), Financial District, Mahnattan
12:00 Noon to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Sixth Avenue Festival (between 14^th & 23^rd Streets), Ladies' Mile, Manhattan
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Woodside Festival (between Roosevelt Av & 63^rd St), Woodside Queens
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Sunday, 5 July:

Additional street fairs:

USO Avenue of the Americas Summerfest (Sixth Av, between 42^nd & 56^th Streets), Midtown Manhattan
10:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Israeli Civil Rights Lexington Avenue Festival (between 34^th & 42^nd Streets), Murray Hill, Manhattan
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Farther afield in the Comestiblogosphere:

Boston's 28^th Annual Chowderfest

Dozens of restaurants compete for the title of Boston's Best Chowder.  Sample and vote for your favorite.

City Hall Plaza, Boston, Massachusetts
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M. (rain or shine)

Admission: $7-$10

(617) 227-1528

http://www.bostonharborfest.com/

Dine Richly at Pó Brooklyn

In 1993, before his celebrity on the Food Network, Mario Batali opened Pó, a small trattoria in Manhattan's West Village.  Despite the founding chef's departure seven years later, the Cornelia Street eatery continued to thrive.  Following the success of the original, Pó Brooklyn was launched in 2007 and has been on my radar ever since.  A friend's recommendation, nay, insistence, compelled me to try the Smith Street edition during Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.

It was rainy and raw the day of my visit.  Mother Nature did little to brighten the dim interior, which my Comestaccomplice called soigné.  Nevertheless, the white table linen lightened the dark and cozy dining room while adding a touch of elegance to the casual setting.  The service was consistent with the ambiance—very accommodating without being intrusive.

The restaurant week menu choices were considerable, comprising four starters, five main courses, and three desserts.  Worthy representatives from the regular menu, including vegetarian options, were selected judiciously.  In general, gustatory ratings for promotional prix-fixe specials range from tolerable to very good.  The cucina of Pó Brooklyn raises the bar, however—my meal was excellent in nearly every respect.  Lacking any hint of mass production, each dish looked and tasted as though Chef Lee McGrath had prepared it especially for me.  This trattoria represents one of the best values I've encountered during Dine-In Brooklyn—not necessarily in quantity, but in quality.  It's hard to imagine a better $23 dinner anywhere.

White Bean Bruschetta

Our meal began with a complimentary (normally $2) White Bean Bruschetta.  The combination of canellini beans, olive oil, herbs and spices (including hot red pepper flakes, the sine qua non of Batali dishes) provided a pleasant deviation from common tomato-based toppings.  Receiving a corresponding recipe card with our snack added an ingratiating touch.  We were off to a propitious start.

Cured Tuna

My Cured Tuna antipasto yielded a bit of a surprise: the blend of tuna, canellini beans, sliced artichokes, and red onion atop a bed of frisée—all amid a chili-mint vinaigrette—gave every indication of being an insalata.  Regardless of its name, however, the successful union of ingredients resulted in an uncomplicated, yet excellent, starter.

Cider Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin

My secondo piatto, unlike my "antipasto," was much as I had envisioned it to be.  The Cider-Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin with braised cabbage and apple mostarda combined elements in a manner akin to reuniting old chums.  Though well-prepared and beautifully presented, this dish took no risks and demonstrated little desire to stray from anyone's comfort zone.  There's nothing intrinsically wrong with that, because it was tasty.  But in the company of more inspired offerings, the pork tenderloin was bit trite.

Grilled Guinea Hen

I realized I could have chosen a better main course upon sampling my Comestaccomplice's Grilled Guinea Hen.  It was a masterpiece that united simplicity with exquisite flavors.  Grilled and seasoned to a dark perfection, the bird was served atop pumpkin-and-scallion fregula (pearl-shaped pasta) and encircled by a ring of olive oil and saba (Italian grape syrup).  This was the pièce de résistance of the evening—a veritable symphony of flavors.  The succulent hen, with its masterly preparation, provided incentive enough for me to become a regular here.

Dark Chocolate Terrine

Finally, the dolce did not disappoint.  My Dark Chocolate Terrine (amaretti Sorrano, Vin Santo, and  espresso-caramel sauce) tasted every bit as good as it looked and left me with a sort of cacao "high."  It provided a sweet ending to a marvelous meal that didn't make me Po'.  This was a delightful meal, from start to finish.  But then, alas, it was back into the rain for me …

Pó Brooklyn

276 Smith Street (between Degraw & Sackett Sts), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 875-1980

http://www.porestaurant.com/

By train: F,G to Carroll Street (exit at President St)
By bus: B71, B75

Saint Germain: Germanely French in Bay Ridge

When last I dined at this Bay Ridge bistro, it was called Provence en Boîte.  Although owners Jean-Jacques and Leslie Bernat have since packed up and relocated their Provençal "box" to Boerum Hill, this space retained its Gallic flavor when Jerome Vidy reopened it as Saint Germain in August, 2004.  (The name, incidentally, comes from the Left Bank district in Paris around the quartier latin, or Latin quarter—an historic area known for its literary and artistic life.)  I've wanted to try the Third Avenue namesake of Saint-Germain-des-Prés for some time, but have always considered the prices un peu cher.  This spring's Dine-In Brooklyn, however, afforded me an affordable occasion to sample their cuisine.

Being seated at my favorite table brought back memories of this bistro's previous incarnation.  Little has changed in the dining room since my last visit:  guests must still pass the enticing dessert showcase upon entering; the bar still stands along the wall beyond the confections; and the banquette still lines the opposite wall.  Though the cooking has remained French, the service has not.  (I miss the Bernat's lovely niece, a delightful French serveuse.)

The special prix-fixe menu (please see below) comprised four starters, four main courses, and seemingly countless desserts.  It offered a well-chosen selection, mostly from the regular menu.  The unaccustomed generosity of the promotional portions came as quite a pleasant (and satisfying) surprise.

My Kir Royale apéritif set the tone for the first course.  Its rosy effervescence made a delightful partner to the smoked salmon platter.  The sparkling wine, combined with the sweet influences of the cassis, complemented the rich smokiness of the fish as well as the piquancy of the caper garnish.  Generously portioned and served with toast and lettuce, this was a marvelous starter.  Interestingly, the salmon platter does not appear on the regular menu, though it probably should.

Smoked salmon platter with toast and lettuce

I should have ordered wine for my second round.  Instead, I succumbed to the seductive appeal of the Brigitte Bardot cocktail.  The mixture of lemon vodka, triple sec, and sparkling French pink lemonade sounded better than it tasted.  What was I thinking?  (I wonder whether I'll fall victim to Wild Love or a Screaming Orgasm next time.)

Onward to the main course.  Since I had a hankering for meat, I chose the Flank Steak au Poivre with pommes frites.  Popular in French kitchens, this cut comes from a part of the cow that normally receives considerable exercise.  While quite lean, the flank can be somewhat tough and stringy.  Thus, it requires rapid cooking on high heat.  As for my steak, it was slightly tough (predictably), but very flavorful, and cooked almost perfectly.  I say almost because it was not quite so rare as I'd requested—a minor point, overall.  The peppercorn sauce (made with green peppercorns, brandy, and cream) was consistent with my expectations: not great, but not bad, either.  It could have benefited from additional brandy.  The crisp pommes frites were authentic and very good, indeed.  Why can't all french fries be made from real potatoes?  Again, the ample portion's scale was more American than it was French.

Flank steak au poivre with pommes frites

Though sated after the main course, I still faced the prospect of selecting a dessert from the large display case.  With so many délices from which to choose, I picked the one that seemed to be exhorting me to consume it:  the apricot amandine.  My initial bite, however, revealed the real reason behind the tart's entreaties: fear of being the last to be chosen.  Apparently, this dessert had been deserted awhile.  I found myself doing battle with the crust—it was far too rigid.  Age may have also played a role in helping the almond paste overpower the retreating flavor forces of the sliced apricots.  I prefer my steaks aged, but not so my desserts.  (Perhaps I should have ordered the Porcupine confection instead.)

Apricot amandine

Among my Dine-In Brooklyn meals so far, this one has represented the best value.  Considering that the regular dinner menu lists steak au poivre at $21.95 and desserts at $6 apiece, the $23 fixed price for my three courses was a bargain.  Overall, my dinner was quite satisfactory despite the disappointing apricot amandine.  While the bistro fare at Saint Germain is unlikely to win awards for creativity, it is fairly reliable and tasty.

Saint Germain

8303 Third Avenue (near 83^rd St), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn

(718) 745-8899

By train: R to 86^th Street
By bus: B37

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

The Scoop on Jacques Torres' Ice Cream

Although I had just finished a very satisfying dinner, replete with dessert, the sign outside Jacques Torres' latest venture was too inviting to ignore:  "Come In! Try Our Ice Cream," it beckoned.  Inspired by the success of their ice cream sandwiches over the past four years, Jacques Torres and his partner Ken Goto opened an ice cream parlor adjacent to their chocolate factory on Water Street in D.U.M.B.O.  The new shop began dishing up its frozen wares two Saturdays ago, on 30 May.  Could the renowned chocolatiers also churn out superior ice cream and sorbet?  In spite of my satiety, I was determined to investigate.

Co-owner Ken Goto

An initial taste of the mango sorbet failed to portend a second dessert that evening.  Its formidable fruit flavor was, alas, unable to subjugate the surge of insuperable sweetness.  A second sample altered my supplemental dessert plans instantly, however.  A diminutive spoonful of the exquisite raspberry sorbet virtually exploded in my mouth, leaving behind its fruit-laden shrapnel for my taste buds to savor and exhort for more.  A small cup of this tasty treat revealed its silky-smooth texture that could best be described as mousse-like.  Its flavor and consistency make this possibly the best raspberry sorbet I've tasted.

Though I limited my trials to sorbet this time, a couple of ice cream flavors aroused my curiosity:  namely, the Wicked (spiced with ancho and chipotle chilies) and the Vanilla Caramel Popcorn Crunch.  In all, Mr. Chocolate offers more than a dozen flavors of ice cream and sorbet at very reasonable prices.  Cones and cups: one scoop ($3); two scoops ($4.75); three scoops ($6).  Having mastered chocolates, truffles, bonbons, and now ice cream, Mr. Torres is becoming the Jacques of all treats.  What sweets will he conquer next?

Jacques Torres Ice Cream

62 Water Street (near Main St), D.U.M.B.O., Brooklyn

(718) 875-9772

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

By train: A,C to High Street; F to York Street
By bus: B25 to Main Street

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestevents for June 5-7, 2009

Comestible events this weekend for New York and beyond:

Greek Festival

Enjoy homemade Greek foods and pastries, shop in the agora and flea market, and dance the night away.

Saints Constantine & Helen Cathedral
64 Schermerhorn Street (between Court St & Boerum Pl), Downtown Brooklyn

Friday, 11:00 A.M. to 1:00 A.M.
Saturday, 1:00 P.M. to 1:00 A.M.
Sunday, 1:00 P.M. to 4:00 P.M.

Free.

(718) 624-0595

http://www.stconstantineandhelen.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall, M,R (BMT) to Court Street
By bus: B41, B61, B63, B75

Gateway to Nations, NYC Native American Heritage Celebration

The largest Native American festival in New York City features three days of Native American singing, dancing, drumming, food, crafts, jewelry, birds of prey, and more.

Floyd Bennett Field
Gateway National Recreation Area
50 Aviation Road, Brooklyn

Friday, 10:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M.
Saturday & Sunday, 11:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M.

Donation: $12 Adults; $6 Children/Seniors

(718) 686-0012
(718) 686-9297

http://www.redhawkcouncil.org/

By bus: Q35

86^th Street Bensonhurst Street Festival

Rides, games, food, and entertainment for the whole family.

86^th Street (19^th Av to Bay Pkwy), Bensonhurst, Brooklyn

Sunday, 7:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(718) 745-3511

By train: D,M to 20 Av
By bus: B1, B6, B82

Farther afield in the Comestiblogosphere:

Schweppes Great Chowder Cook-Off

About two dozen competitors from around the country serve up some 3,000 gallons of chowder as they vie for soup-remacy in Newport, Rhode Island's 29^th annual cook-off.  Taste and vote for best chowdah, as well as for best clam cake.  Over $10,000 in prizes are at stake.

Saturday, 11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.

Admission: $20 (children 12 and under free with an accompanying adult)

http://www.newportwaterfrontevents.com/
http://www.gonewport.com/

Second Annual Food & Wine Festival at National Harbor®

This food fest returns to National Harbor on the Potomac River in our nation's capital.  This event celebrates the use of "local, fresh and responsibly sourced ingredients from both land and sea."  Admission includes tastings of food, wine, beer, and spirits, as well as access to seminars, chef demonstrations, and workshops.  Attendees also receive a souvenir bag and wine glass.

Saturday, 12:00 Noon to 8:00 P.M.
Sunday, 12:00 Noon to 6:00 P.M.

Tickets: $65 (ages 21 and older); $30 (ages 12-20); $15 (ages 6-11)

(443) 716-2800

http://www.foodandwinenh.com/

Northampton Restaurant Week

This weeklong event concludes Sunday, 7 June.  Fifteen Northampton, Massachusetts restaurants strut their stuff with three-course menus at the fixed price of $20.09 (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

(413) 584-1900

http://www.northamptonrestaurantweek.com/
http://www.explorenorthampton.com/

National Doughnut Day—Free Doughnuts!

Every year, the first Friday in June designates National Doughnut Day.  This holiday originated in 1938 with the Chicago Salvation Army to help feed the hungry during the Great Depression, as well as to honor the Salvation Army's female-volunteer "Lassies" of World War I.  Often using helmets as cookware, the Lassies prepared thousands of doughnuts for American infantrymen—or doughboys—behind the front lines in France.  The first Salvation Army doughnut was served in 1917.

As a tribute to the Salvation Army's work, Krispy Kreme, Dunkin' Donuts, and a number of others are providing free doughnuts today.  Participating Krispy Kreme stores are giving away one doughnut per customer without any requisite purchase.  Participating Dunkin' Donuts restaurants, on the other hand, are offering one free doughnut with the purchase of a beverage.

To give back:

http://www.salvationarmyusa.org/

Visit the LaMars site for doughnut facts and a trivia quiz:

http://www.lamars.com/donutday/index.html

Hot Dog! Childhood Memories of Verona Park

Each of us has a private, nostalgic universe—that combination of sight, sound texture, smell, and taste that informs our memories.  I say "private" because it is impossible for another person to share our experience, even simultaneously, let alone after the fact, because our personalities and biases shape what is ultimately stored as memory.

Impossible as it may be to share an exact memory, there is a place that is special enough to conjure what my Comestaccomplice termed a "near-memory experience."

Verona Park in Verona, New Jersey was my boyhood haunt.  Nearly every day during the warm months, my grandmother and I made the long walk thither from my house in West Orange.  On the occasion of my recent visit to my childhood home, however, we drove.  As we followed the familiar old path to my little paradise, my friend marveled at how much ground my little legs were willing—nay, eager—to traverse to reach the park.  This alone conveyed the idea that Verona Park had to be very special.

When we arrived, my friend understood how heavenly this place must have been for a small child, with its variety of features to explore: a lovely lake with wetlands, inlets, an island and waterfalls; a playground; a bridge; a fort with a dungeon (or, in grownups' parlance, a bandstand).  My friend dug deeply into her five-year-old self to see this place through my young eyes.  The emotions from her own nostalgic venues were easily accessible as she immersed herself here.  For the rest of our sojourn at Verona Park, she was able to remain in that child's shoes, and experience it as I might have.  Contributing to the magic of this experience was that very little had changed in the decades since my childhood.

Of all the things that had not changed, or hadn't much changed, was the concession stand and the superior hot dog that it offers.  When I was a lad, the snack bar was situated inside the boathouse.  One could eat inside, or enjoy the food outside on the deck overlooking the lake.  Today the concession stand faces out to the deck, and the boathouse interior is closed.  It was a very busy day, yet there were plenty of spots available at the long picnic tables alongside the water's edge.

Consistent with the crowds was quite a wait for our franks (there's an ample menu, but no reason to order anything else).  Finally, they were handed to us across the counter … my Comestaccomplice could hardly contain her disappointment.  It took only one whiff of the hot dog's aroma and a glance at its crackly skin to realize that ordering just one had been a serious mistake.  Two or three would have been much wiser.

The hot dog's appearance—fine as it was—could only hint at just how good it actually tasted.  The grilled skin offers a gratifying snap as one bites into it.  The juice inside is just enough to keep the meat moist without it running down one's chin.  The flavors meld perfectly: good quality beef is blended with just the right amount of salt and savory spicing, and encased in that snappy skin with its slight charred flavor.

It is rare that as adults we can revisit a favorite childhood experience and even find it still enjoyable.  It's truly special when a visit down memory lane is not only pleasant, but measures up to our inner child's expectations.  Amazingly, the hot dog was exactly as I remembered it—how truly remarkable after all these years.  What a treat it was to share such a delectable old memory.

Verona Park

Bloomfield & Lakeside Avenues
Verona, N.J.   07044

http://www.essex-countynj.org/
http://www.veronapark.org/

By bus: 29 (Bloomfield Avenue)

The Lillet-tini, Lillet Martini, Ohranj Martini, etc.

A number of years ago, my friend Darrin Siegfried of Brooklyn's Red White & Bubbly introduced me to a delightful—albeit potent—cocktail.  As he put it, "the people from Lillet came up with it to help promote their apéritif, but they gave it the improbable name of the Lillet-tini.  Now, seriously: who is going to order that?"  Perhaps it wasn't the best choice of names, but it remains an undeniably delicious drink.  It was my late wife's favorite.

1 part Lillet Blonde (also known as Lillet Blanc)
1 part Stolichnaya Ohranj

Pour over ice in a rocks glass, garnish with an orange slice.

Or

Stir over ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass, garnish with an orange slice.

A Memorial Day toast to you, Jennifer.

Bánh Mì Comes to Amherst!

This Memorial Day weekend coincides with commencement activities at the University of Massachusetts, my alma mater.  Not much has changed since the time of my studies there last century.  Bars, pubs, and other banal food purveyors continue to dominate Amherst's restaurant scene.  How much beer, pizza, and ice cream does the average student require?  The recent opening of Miss Saigon, however, changed that somewhat by introducing the Vietnamese bánh mì sandwich to this college town.

Having been spoiled by the marvelous sandwiches of Sunset Park's Ba Xuyên (as well as those of several others in Brooklyn and Manhattan), I was quite disappointed with the mediocrity of Boston's putative best.  Thus, I was highly skeptical of what Amherst's Miss Saigon had to offer.  That skepticism was quickly dispelled with the first bite, however.

Miss Saigon's version of the bánh mì sandwich is quite tasty.  A crusty baguette, pâté schmear, meat, cilantro, julienned carrots and daikon, onions, jalapeños, and sliced cucumber are collated expertly to produce a successful flavor alliance.  Eliminating even one of the foregoing ingredients would result in a lesser sandwich.  Though the meat choices—classic pork, BBQ beef, and BBQ chicken—seem somewhat limited, they afford a satisfactory variety.  Better to have a few good selections than a lot of bad ones.  The $3.95 price represents a relative bargain when compared with Quiznos' $4 bomb it calls the Toasty Torpedo (a foot-long breadstick disguised as a sandwich).

While a bit pricey at $4.50, the milkshakes are delicious. Their lack of sweetness makes them particularly refreshing compared with the average shake.  The durian, with its clean taste, is rapidly becoming a favorite.  (In an earlier post, I had described the flavor as a combination of egg salad and papaya.)  Also available are the increasingly popular pearl boba drinks (bubble tea), priced at $3.

In addition to its bánh mì sandwiches, Miss Saigon offers an extensive selection of Vietnamese dishes.  Meals are available in the dining room or for takeout.

Miss Saigon

96 North Pleasant Street
Amherst, MA   01002

(413) 253-9988

http://www.amherstpho.com/

Foodbuzz Extravaganza at David Burke Townhouse

To celebrate its millionth post, Foodbuzz threw a bash fit for a millionaire on Tuesday, 12 May 2009, at davidburke townhouse on Manhattan's East Side.  Even this old fresser was not prepared for the unending barrage of delights with which I was besieged.  Never has my appetite been so helplessly overpowered.

If David Burke, one of this year's inductees into the James Beard Foundation's Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America and 2009 chef/innovator honoree by the Nation's Restaurant News MenuMasters was out to impress a bunch of foodists, he surely succeeded.  Chef Sylvain Delpique's variety of gustatory masterpieces—highlighted by mouthwatering hors d'œuvre—provided a culinary version of Plato's Retreat.  Needless to say, it was a marvelous evening of merrymaking with my fellow food bloggers.  Thanks a million, Foodbuzz!

How's this for openers?

Assorted dumplings

Scallop ceviche

Lobster flan in an eggshell

The Lobster Scramble was one of my favorites

Foie gras

Chicken Satay

The tuna tartare was my overall favorite

The sliders were cooked and seasoned to perfection

The Carving Station:

The salmon was moist, tender, and seasoned perfectly

Medium-rare: Just the way I like it!

Succulent roasted turkey

The sauce complemented the bird well

Prime rib of beef au jus—need I say more?

The Desserts:

Apple tartlets

Butterscotch panna cotta

Chocolate bouchons

Doughnut-like creme-filled beignets—Beighnuts?

The signature Cheesecake Lollipop Tree

Some of the people who made it possible:

David Burke

Sylvain Delpique, chef de cuisine

Ben Dehan, Foodbuzz CEO and founder

Foodbuzzers Ryan Stern, managing editor (left),
Devon O'Donell, director of partnerships (right)

davidburke townhouse

133 East 61^st Street (between Park & Lexington Avs), East Side, Manhattan

(212) 813-2121

http://www.davidburketownhouse.com/

By train: F,N,R,W to Lexington Av; 4,5,6 to 59 St
By bus: M1, M2, M3, M4 (uptown); M101, M102, M103 (downtown), Q32

A Margarita for Cinco de Mayo

One needn't wait till Cinco de Mayo to enjoy a Margarita—any warm day would be just fine.  Contrary to popular belief, the Fifth of May is not Mexico's Independence Day.  Rather, it is a somewhat minor, regional holiday—observed mainly in the state of Puebla—commemorating the Mexican army's improbable victory over superior French forces in the 1862 Battle of Puebla.  Curiously, the holiday is celebrated chiefly north of the border.  (Mexico's actual Independence Day falls on 16 September:  dieciséis de septiembre).

Enough about history—how does one make a great Margarita?  To begin, it's best to avoid mixes.  While they may taste insidiously good, they contain ingredients that sound as though they'd be best avoided.  For example, Jose Cuervo's Margarita Mix—admittedly one of the tastiest of the genre—contains "water, high fructose corn syrup and/or sugar, citric acid, natural flavors, sodium citrate, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (to preserve flavor), cellulose gum, polysorbate 60, gum Arabic, glycerol Abietate, and FD&C Yellow No. 5."

Instead of all those chemicals, why not simplify the drink to include just three components?  The best Margaritas are made with tequila, triple sec, and fresh lime juice.  Using high-quality ingredients may cost a little more, but the results are worth every penny.  Begin with a superior tequila—never settle for anything made with less than 100% blue agave (Mexican law mandates at least 51% agave; no such minimum exists for domestic "tequilas").  Cointreau, a liqueur from Angers (pronounced ahn·ZHAY), France—produced from curaçao oranges—ranks as the crème de la crème of triple sec.  Its orange peel flavor is an essential part of a great Margarita.  Not to be overlooked is the fruit juice: fresh squeezed limes are a must.  Again, a mix tastes all right; fresh lime juice, however, tastes much better.

While optional, the final ingredient is Kosher salt.  Use it to salt the rim of the glass, if you so desire.  Now that we have all the ingredients, is there anything else we need?  Yes!  Never underestimate the importance of proper glassware.  Genuine Margarita glasses add that little extra appeal to the drink.  Avoid water goblets or anything of that ilk.

Ready to mix?  Here, then, is my recipe for the perfect Margarita:

The ideal tequila-to-Cointreau ratio is 4:π (or roughly 4:3.1416).

In terms of measure for one drink:

2 ounces 100% blue agave tequila
1½ ounces (+ a drop or 2) Cointreau
Juice of 1 to 1½ limes

Your interpretation of perfection may vary, however.  It's easy to adjust the ingredients to your taste.

Shake well, serve with a slice of lime, and enjoy!

Pomme de Terre, Not Ordinaire

A few years ago, a good French bistro like Pomme de Terre would have seemed unthinkable in this part of Ditmas Park, Brooklyn.  It still appears somewhat improbable today.  For instance, the nearby Newkirk Avenue BMT station has no fewer than two transit cops present at any given time.  And while undergoing its transformation from seedy grocery to upscale eatery, this space suffered numerous acts of vandalism.  Despite the annoying setbacks, owners Gary Jonas and Allison McDowell (founders of The Farm on Adderley nearby), and Jim Mamary (one of the founders of Patois) persevered and, on 31 March 2008, began serving, in their words, "well-loved food."  Since then, I'd always wanted to give this little bistro a try.  The recent Dine-In Brooklyn week afforded me a fine opportunity.

Dining weeks allow restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a reduced price.  Many restaurateurs use such occasions to put their best food forward.  Unfortunately, that was not the case at Pomme de Terre.  Their Dine-In Brooklyn menu seemed to target regular customers at the expense of newcomers.  Instead of featuring signature dishes, they offered items not found on their regular menu.  Perhaps with good reason.  After all, this little restaurant appears to have established a constant clientèle.  Nevertheless, I'd have preferred something a bit more representative—such as Steak Frites au Poivre—of their typical fare.

Although the bread is ordinaire, Pomme de Terre adds some nice French touches such as homemade butter to accompany it.  My meal began with a garlic soup containing a poached egg and topped with a croûton.  Perhaps I'm a bit too fond of garlic, but it seemed there just wasn't enough of it in the broth.  While this starter was a tasty and pleasant departure from the ordinary, its lack of ail intensity did not yield a favorable comparison with garlic-based concoctions I've enjoyed in Europe.

Garlic Soup

For the main course, chef David Pitula offered two choices: Warm Country Pâté and Chicken Paillard.  I opted for the latter, which was served in a goat cheese-basil vinaigrette, topped with grilled eggplant and squash, and accompanied by Yukon-Rosemary potatoes.  It was good, possibly even very good.  The overly acidic vinaigrette created a slight detraction, but was ameliorated somewhat by the sweetness of the grilled vegetables.  Overall, the flavors melded well.

Chicken Paillard

Had the cellar been commensurate with the wine list, I'd have found it quite acceptable.  I've come to expect a bistro's carte des vins to comprise few, but well-chosen—possibly esoteric—wines.  Unfortunately, it took four tries to find a wine that was actually in stock.  I finally settled on a glass of Vin de Savoie "Abymes," whose $9 price would have bought a bottle at a retail shop.

The dining room's décor is consistent with that of bistros one might find in Manhattan.  To wit, it has a sort of French feel.  Nevertheless, a Gallic bistro experience should transcend French-accented fare and décor.  Alas, the service was decidedly un-French.  My waiter made no efforts toward any sort of authentic pronunciation whatsoever.  (My request for a glass of "van de sahvwah" was met with a "vin da Savoy."  Oh well.)   While competent and not unfriendly by any means, the glib service was not all that ingratiating.  Perhaps I simply expect too much.

Lemongrass Panna Cotta

For dessert, I chose the Lemongrass Panna Cotta with mixed fruit.  While the tropical infusion provided a tangy twist, the consistency of the panna cotta lacked the buoyancy I've come to expect.  Again, at a purportedly French bistro, I'd have preferred the Gallic version of burnt cream: crème brûlée.

Whatever its minor shortcomings, Pomme de Terre is a welcome addition to a neighborhood that has been bereft of superior dining spots far too long.

Pomme de Terre

1301 Newkirk Avenue (NE corner Argyle Rd), Ditmas Park, Booklyn

(718) 284-0005

http://www.pdtny.com/

By train: B,Q to Newkirk Avenue
By bus: B8, B68

Happy Birthday, Comestiblog!

The plastic corks are popping and the André Cold Duck is flowing to celebrate Comestiblog's ignominious first anniversary.  It is hard to fathom why the weblog of comestibles, eating, drinking, and dubious taste was permitted to endure an entire year—or, for that matter, why it was allowed to begin in the first place!  There's really no excuse.

During the past 12 months, the curious ruminations and pointless musings posted on these pages have generated opprobrium far beyond my wildest imagination.  Yet, despite all the importunate recommendations to the contrary, I've decided to continue this affront to the blogosphere by prolonging my failed experiment to determine whether it is really possible for Comestiblog to degenerate into even greater ignobility.

Tanoreen is Moving

Tanoreen, the popular Bay Ridge, Brooklyn restaurant, is moving across Third Avenue to usher in its second decade.  Within the next two months, Rawia Bishara's "Middle Eastern cuisine with Mediterranean aromas" will be served in the dining room vacated a year ago by the venerable Mr. Tang (whose take-out branch continues to operate next door.)

The Patois of New York

For the time being, wistful diners who pass 255 Smith Street, Brooklyn will have to adapt to the patois of Little Italy to enjoy some of their Gallic favorites.  In January, Patois, a 1997 pioneer of Smith Street's restaurant row, closed its doors with the promise of reopening across the street in the near future.

Last Wednesday, meanwhile, the Mulberry Street incarnation made its debut.  Although the new digs are brighter and cleaner than the recently abandoned ones in Carroll Gardens, they somehow lack that je ne sais quoi.  Nevertheless, "the food is the same," I'm reassured.

Incidentally, Patois' prix fixe menu ($9.95 from 11:30 A.M. till 4:00 P.M.; $19.95 after that) represents an extraordinary value.

The future of the Manhattan location is uncertain, however.  Will the new Patois will continue to operate should indeed the newer one open at 254 Smith Street?  Stay tuned.  But in the meantime, bon appétit!

Patois

177 Mulberry Street (near Broome St), Little Italy, Manhattan

(212) 925-8157

By train:  6 to Spring Street; J,M,Z to Bowery
By bus:  M1, M103, B51

Eat: WFC Restaurant Showcase

On Thursday, 26 March, sample signature dishes from the World Financial Center's eclectic array of restaurants for $1 to $5.  Choices range "from mini-burgers and pork dumplings to silky gelato and crème brûlée."  Sounds good.

Toward a verdant goal, Brookfield Properties, the event's sponsor, will use biodegradable or compostable trays and flatware.

EAT: World Financial Center Restaurant Showcase

Winter Garden
220 Vesey Street, Lower Manhattan
Thursday, 26 March 2009, 11:00 A.M. to 2:30 P.M.

(212) 417-7000

http://www.artsworldfinancialcenter.com/cgi-bin/Go.cgi?q_id=842

By train: 2,3 (IRT) to Park Place; A,C,E (IND) to Chambers Street; PATH to World Trade Center

By bus: M20, M22, Downtown Connection

Dine-In Brooklyn 2009

"Foodies, the wait is over!" proclaims Marty Markowitz, Brooklyn Borough President.  This weekend, the protracted NYC Restaurant Week™ (begun mid-January) passes the torch to Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.  From 23 March through 2 April, over 200 Brooklyn eateries will offer three-course lunches or dinners for $23 (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  In addition, some 20 restaurants will serve two meals at the aforementioned fixed price.  That's one of the best dining bargains anywhere.

Not sure which restaurants to try?  Pick up a free 2008 Zagat Guide to Brooklyn Restaurants—while supplies last—at the Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center inside Borough Hall.  Last year, I used the occasion of Dine-In Brooklyn to sample Le Petit Marché and to revisit Rose Water.  This year?  I'll keep you posted …

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
179 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

F. Martinella Open House

Free food?  Sign me up!  This weekend starts a little early at F. Martinella on Court Street in Downtown Brooklyn.  Although this retro-themed deli opened in November, its coming-out party takes place today through Sunday (19-22 March) in the form of a Grand Open House.  Enjoy food samples, cooking demonstrations, entertainment, prizes, and much more.  Please visit their website for details.

Everything I tried was delicious, incidentally.

F. Martinella

119 Court Street (NE corner State St), Downtown Brooklyn
Thursday through Sunday,
10:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M.

(718) 858-6000

http://www.fmartinella.com/

By train: 2,3,4,5 to Borough Hall
By bus:  B75, B61, B63