COMESTIBLOG

Dinosaur Bar B Que—Jurassic Pork in Harlem

It was cold night in a marginal part of town.  The music inside this honky-tonk biker joint was loud, we were hungry, and the wait for a table seemed interminable.  After finally being seated and served, my first ravenous bite justified all the effort it had taken to reach that point.  This was real barbecue!  Although that took place some seven years ago, I still savor my gustatory memories of the original Dinosaur Bar B Que in Syracuse, New York.

In late 2004, roughly a year after my Syracuse feast, I welcomed the prospect of Dinosaur's new Manhattan venture with eager enthusiasm.  Early tepid reviews, however, delayed my initial visit to the Harlem branch by several years.  Should I have waited so long?

On a recent visit to the NYC Dino, we were greeted with the familiar 45-minute wait for an indoor table.  Fortunately, outdoor seating was on a first-come, first-served basis.  We promptly scored a private, full-sized picnic table outside on a lovely summer's evening.  Best of all, we avoided the deafening decibel level in the dining room.  It almost appears as though the interior space had been manufactured to resemble the one in Syracuse—right down to the noise level.  One could say that Dinosaur really knows how to put the din in dining.  Just steps from the Cotton Club and Fairway, the contrived biker ambiance seems incongruous with its surroundings.  The clientele was composed of mainly yuppies; the few bikers we spied had ridden in under their own pedal propulsion.

Regardless of what critics may have said, the barbecue here is every bit as good as the upstate original, and exceeds the taste and quality of many a Southern pit.  With its $27.95 Sweetheart Deal for Two (a full rack of pork ribs, four homemade sides, and two pieces of honey hush cornbread), this Dino has soared to one of the top spots on my list of favorite barbecue joints.  The ribs are marinated for 24 hours with Dinosaur's Action Spice Rub and slow pit-smoked to perfection to yield a meaty, fall-off-the-bone tender rack.  A light glaze of Dino's original Bar-B-Q sauce adds the exquisite finishing touch.  Of course there's additional sauce at each table for those who like more.  Unlike many, this one is rich and flavorful without being a ketchup bomb.

Sweetheart Deal for Two

For our sides, we chose cole slaw, Creole potato salad, Bar-B-Que beans, and simmered collard greens (vegetarian!)—each very tasty.  The relish and Cajun spices in the potato salad added a welcome tang.  Of course, cornbread is de rigueur with barbecue.  Dino's honey hush beauties are moist, and have the right degree of graininess in their texture.  My only complaint is that we were limited to a mere two pieces with our Sweetheart Deal—two more would have been twice as sweet.

Though usually a wine drinker, I prefer suds with my 'cue.  As one might expect, Dinosaur has a well-chosen selection of beers on tap.  While my Comestaccomplice ordered the Blue Point Toasted Lager, I chose the Middle Ages Syracuse Pale Ale.  Less bitter and a bit smoother than mine, hers was the better barbecue brew.

Dinosaur Bar B Que's are among the most satisfying ribs I've tried, and worth the heartburn.  Needless to say, a full rack and all its accompaniments are more than ample for two.  Why did I wait all these years to try this place?

Dinosaur Bar B Que

646 West 131^st Street (SE corner 12^th Av), Harlem, Manhattan

(212) 694-1777

http://www.DinosaurBarBQue.com/

By train: 1 to 125 Street (walk west on 125^th to 12^th Av)
By bus: M4, M104, Bx15

NYC Casting Call for Kitchen Nightmares

Fox Television's Kitchen Nightmares is casting immediately for next season.  The show's casting producers have put out the following call:

If your restaurant is having problems and you want Chef Gordon Ramsay to come into your establishment, troubleshoot your problems, and try to get you back on the road to success, contact us NOW!

To be considered:

Email: Twinsworld1@aol.com

Place "KITCHEN NIGHTMARES" in the subject line and Include: Your name, contact info, name of your restaurant, where you are located, type of cuisine you serve, how many seats you have, how long you have been open, photos or website if available, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, why you need our help.  The MORE INFO THE BETTER.

Is Five Star Punjabi Diner Stellar?

Situated in the shadow of the 59^th Street Bridge, across the street from Silvercup Studios, Five Star Punjabi Diner is one of the great luncheon bargains of New York.  Though it may be a bit out of the way, it's worth a trip to Long Island City for this good—and very spicy—Indian buffet.  From 11:00 A.M till 4:00 P.M., Punjabi offers an array of appetizing selections that includes five dishes from the steam table, as well as Chicken Tandoori, salad, rice, naan, and dessert for $8.99.

Punjabi's is neither the best nor the most elegant Indian buffet I've ever sampled, but it manages to satisfy nonetheless.  The Chicken Tandoori, for instance, was less flavorful and less succulent than I might have liked—though I hasten to add that few restaurants get it right.  Furthermore, the spices generally seemed less fresh than I had hoped for them to be.  (Whence Punjabi's five-star rating comes is unclear.)  That said, however, the items from the steam table were rather tasty and unusually spicy-hot.

On the day of my visit, the buffet included the ever-popular Chicken Tikka Masala and Goat Curry, as well as vegetarian dishes Aaloo Gobhi (a spicy combination of potatoes and cauliflower), Sag (a concoction of spinach, mustard, broccoli, onions, garlic, ginger, and tomatoes), and Dal Makhani (slow-cooked black lentils with fresh ginger, garlic, onions, and tomatoes).  It goes without saying that the foregoing items are best enjoyed with naan.  Warm, and having just the right consistency, Punjabi's version of the flat, leavened, tandoori bread is better than most.

When it was time for dessert, I cooled my palate with a small helping of Malai Kheer (rice pudding).  Perhaps owing to satiety, I found the sweet dish to be unremarkable.  A tiny amount was ample.

Malai Kheer

Unless one is completely blinded by love, Five Star Punjabi is not a venue for a romantic lunch.   Inadequate lighting cannot conceal the dining room's tired and worn appearance.  On my visit, the service was somewhat slow, and tables weren't cleared promptly—or at all, in some cases.  The lone waitress was by no means at fault, however.  Without anyone to assist her, she seemed overwhelmed and unable to keep pace with customers' needs.  It's all part of the bargain, I guess.

Five Star Punjabi Diner

13-15 43^rd Avenue (near 21^st St), Long Island City, Queens

(718) 784-7444

By train: F to 21^st St-Queensbridge;  7,N,W to Queensboro Plaza
By bus: Q69

Chicken Tandoori

Chicken Tikka Masala

Goat Curry

Aaloo Gobhi

Sag

Dal Makhani

Canaille Expect Better?

One benefit of the Dine In Brooklyn promotion is its annual roll call of restaurants that have escaped my attention.  Canaille, on the fringes of Park Slope, is an example of such a place.  Though it's been around since October of 2007, I'd not heard of this Fifth Avenue French bistro previously.  Its website, however, seemed rather appealing and gave all indications of being a safe $25 bet.

Some of Brooklyn's most popular eateries are fully booked before restaurant week even begins.  Since Canaille (pronounced kuh·NYE) opens at 6:00 P.M. and does not accept reservations, I arrived early to avoid disappointment.  Though my fears of competing for a table were unfounded, there was ample disappointment nonetheless.

For the better part of an hour, my Comestaccomplice and I had the entire bistro to ourselves.  Although the (effectively) private dining room was pleasant, it signaled a problem.  From what I could tell, the lack of customers was not due to the cooking or the décor.  Rather, it seemed to all boil down to a single component: co-owner Philippe de Crespi, a native Parisian whose contemptuous arrogance is exceeded only by his bad attitude.  His demeanor suggested annoyance with our presence.  He appeared to be suspicious, nay, disdainful, of anyone temerarious enough to enter his establishment.  Even the name Canaille (a pejorative term that refers to the riffraff or the unwashed masses) affords an insight into his regard for his clientele (or lack thereof).  The friendliness of co-owner Marie MacLean, on the other hand, provided a warm antidote to her partner's disagreeable behavior.  Her pleasant, nearly apologetic tone was not enough to overcome Monsieur de Crespi's insuperable imperiousness, however.

Aside from the aforementioned situation, there seems to be no reason for this business to be foundering.  What de Crespi lacks in personality, he can almost offset with his cooking.  With part-time assistance from Lyonnais Chef Christophe over the past year, the kitchen is in competent hands.  Our meals were really quite tasty.

Philippe's background as a sommelier and his predilection for French wines are evident in Canaille's well-chosen, albeit overpriced, wine list.  Except for the Domaine Saint-Vincent Brut NV (from New Mexico), every wine comes from France.  Our choice of the crisp 2008 Jean Rosen Pinot Blanc from Alsace turned out to be a fine match for the courses to come.

Tapénade hors d'œuvre

Comprising two starters, three main courses, and two desserts, the Dine In Brooklyn menu was somewhat spare, and not all that representative of the bistro's regular carte.  We began with complimentary southern French hors d'œuvre of garlicky tapénade and toast.  Before we even had the chance to amuse our gueules, however, de Crespi asked us whether we were going to eat it.  Franchement!  Happily, we saw more of Marie than of Philippe the rest of the evening.

Citrus Salad

Carrot Cumin Soup

Having tried both available offerings, we felt that our starters lived up to expectations.  Though my companion's Citrus Salad (mixed greens with orange and grapefruit segments, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar) was fresh and appetizing, it was not much more than a good salad.  My Carrot Cumin Soup was a better choice.  Velvety, and tasting exactly as advertised, it's a dish I'd order again.  Both starters were prepared well using ingredients appropriate to the season.

Tarragon Chicken Linguine

Our mains were somewhat mixed.  While my Comestaccomplice's Tarragon Chicken Linguine (tarragon-braised fowl, pasta, and julienned carrots and zucchini) was satisfying, it was predictably ordinaire.  (Perhaps she'd have fared better with the third option of Moules Frites.)  My main course, on the other hand, was superb.  Served atop a split pea purée, the Pork Butt Confit was mouthwateringly flavorful, succulent, and tender.  The leguminous accompaniment to the pork's subtle seasoning was a succès éclatant.

Pork Butt Confit

For dessert, we were given the choice between banal and dull.  Both of us rejected the Milk Chocolate Roll in favor of the Crème Caramel.  The custard was just as we expected it to be—nothing more, nothing less.

Crème Caramel

To his credit, Philippe de Crespi turns out respectable comestibles.  While I consider some of his dishes worthy of another visit, his demeanor is simply too deterring to warrant a return.  Until he recognizes the extent to which his personality is militating against his success, it's improbable his bistro will thrive.  How can any business prosper if it treats its customers like canaille?

Canaille Bistro Français

78 Fifth Avenue (between St Marks & Prospect Pls), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 789-8899

http://www.canaillebistro.com/

By train: 2,3 to Bergen Street
By bus: B63

Taste of Times Square

The 17^th annual Taste of Times Square takes place today from 5:00 P.M. to 8:30 P.M. on West 46^th Street (between Broadway and Ninth Avenue) and on Broadway (between 45^th and 47^th Streets).  Over 50 area restaurants offer tastes of their signature dishes representing cuisines from around the globe.  Tickets may be purchased at $1 each and redeemed at the tasting tables.

Please visit the Times Square Alliance website for more details.

http://www.timessquarenyc.org/about_us/events_taste.html

Joy Bauer Needs Elocution Lessons

Some people would be well advised to avoid making live appearances on national television.  Watch, for example, as Joy Bauer—NBC's Today Show "nutritionist"—bumbles her way through the segment below.  Apparently, she's unable to distinguish between prosciutto and bruschetta, and hasn't the faintest idea how to pronounce "con queso."

Honest Tea and Truth

The good folks at Honest Beverages recently sent two 500-ml samples of their new Half & Half and Pomegranate Blue for my consideration.  Frankly, I'd not heard of their company and had never knowingly tasted their products.  Thus, it was surprising to learn that Seth Goldman and Barry Nalebuff founded Honest Tea a dozen years ago, and that, in 2008, the two co-founders sold 40 percent of their business to The Coca-Cola Company.

Before I took my first sip, my enthusiasm had already been primed by the USDA Organic logo on the label of both drinks.  At the same time, however, the adjacent slogan, "just a tad sweet," was slightly disconcerting.  I started with the Half & Half, a fifty-fifty blend of black tea and lemonade.  Though somewhat sweet, it was refreshing, and reminded me of the iced tea we'd drunk on family vacations long ago.  The difference, however, is that the Honest version had a more satisfying tea flavor than did the beverage I remember from my summer trips.  For me, this was a taste of nostalgia.

I was also eager to try the Honest Ade Pomegranate Blue (blued with powder and flavor of blueberries).  The name alone sounds healthful.  Although the label touts "200mg antioxidant activity per bottle," this "organic thirst quencher" tastes more like organic Kool-Aid.  As an enthusiast of POM Wonderful 100% Pomegranate Juice, I found the Honest Ade Pomegranate Blue disappointing.  It lacks the gusto of the aforementioned juice and fails to capture the essence of either fruit.

Both Honest beverages left a slight aftertaste—almost like that of an artificial sweetener.  A check of the labels, however, revealed that purified water and organic cane sugar are the first and second ingredients, respectively.  While it may be honest, the slogan, "just a tad sweet," seems a tad restrained.  I try to avoid sweetened drinks in general, and could probably find a more suitable beverage in their "Just" product line.

A Tax-Day Break 2010

Here's a little bonus for tax day: From noon till 2:00 P.M. on 15 April, Energy Kitchen will throw in a free sandwich with the purchase of a beverage.  Choices include a California Wrap, a Chicken Burger, or a Bison Cheesesteak Wrap—all under 500 calories.

Please visit their website for locations:

http://www.EnergyKitchen.com/

Dine In Brooklyn 2010

"Foodies, the wait is over!" is Brooklyn Borough President Marty Markowitz's annual call to Dine In Brooklyn.  From 15-25 March 2010, over 200 eateries in the borough of Kings will offer three-course meals for $20.10 at lunch and $25 at dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  You say you want more?  Nearly 40 restaurants will offer two meals at the aforementioned fixed prices.

Last year, I used the occasion of Dine In Brooklyn to try Pomme de Terre, Saint Germain, Pó Brooklyn, and Chez Oskar.  This year?  I'm open to suggestions …

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
209 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

Stir It 28 Haiti Relief Effort

Food bloggers from coast to coast have joined forces to raise a targeted $50k to aid in the Haiti relief effort.  STIR IT 28: Food Bloggers Align for Haiti Relief is a culinary event taking place simultaneously in Atlanta, Chicago, Los Angeles, New York City, and Washington, D.C., on Sunday, February 21^st from 4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M. EST and 4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M. PST in Los Angeles.  One hundred percent of the proceeds from the campaign will benefit Share Our Strength and Yéle Haiti. Participating chefs, food bloggers, restaurateurs, and home cooks from each city will prepare incredible and diverse dishes and luscious cocktails for guests to enjoy.

As part of the campaign, donations are being accepted during the entire month of February for those who are unable to attend one of the nationwide events.  Donations can be made via PayPal and advanced tickets to any of the five events can be purchased by visiting flanboyanteats.com or cococooks.blogspot.com.  Tickets are $30 in advance, with limited door sales in each city.

The New York event will be hosted by Christy Spackman of balancefood.blogspot.com at the NYU Department of Nutrition and Food Studies, 35 W. 4^th Street, 10^th Floor.

Please visit the Facebook page:  http://www.facebook.com/group.php?v=info&ref=ts&gid=296075025866

Food is Where the Heart is

I thought you might enjoy a few "hearty" dishes for Valentine's Day.

Valentine's Day Sweets for Your Sweetie 2010

Although my Valentine's Day picks for 2009 remain perennial favorites, my roster of preferred chocolatiers is expanding (in sympathy with my waistline).

The 2010 edition of the Comestiblog Valentine's Day cacao recommendations begins with MarieBelle, one of New York's most attractive artisanal chocolates.  Founder Maribel Lieberman uses the aid of computers to craft the intricate designs that adorn her sweets.  Several new ones have been added for Valentine's Day—each a work of art.

MarieBelle's 100-piece Cien Box

MarieBelle's prices may not seem quite so attractive, however.  Ranging from $10 for a two-piece Red Tote Box to $260 for a 100-piece Cien Box (pictured above), these are among the most expensive chocolates in New York.

For something fun, but slightly less extravagant, head over to Essex Street Market and look for Shoppe Roni~Sue.  Namesake Rhonda Kave offers samples of a variety of innovative sweets such as pickle truffles, bacon buttercrunch, and pig candy.  Though they may sound somewhat bizarre, they're rather good—and quite reasonable.

Ronnie-Sue's Cocktail truffles

Standard assortments range from $10 for a 6-piece box to $25 for a 15-piece box.  Special collections are also available.

Has Ronnie-Sue captured the true spirit of Valentine's Day?

L. A. Burdick makes world-class chocolates in the quaint New England town of Walpole, New Hampshire.  Using cocoa from the Caribbean island nation of Grenada, Larry Burdick handcrafts his exquisite wares into a variety of inventive shapes, sizes, and flavors.  His mice, penguins, and cigars are as delicious as they are fun.

Should the Granite State be too far afield, however, the new Burdick Café & Chocolate Shop is now open in Manhattan's Flatiron district.

The quality and price of Burdick's Valentine's Day assortments represent a bargain and make for an ideal treat on the day of love.  To help celebrate the 14^th with an eastern twist, Burdick is also offering special Lunar New Year's collections in honor of the coincidental arrival of the Year of the Tiger.  What a marvelous idea!  Whether for 2010 or 4708, L. A. Burdick is the Comestiblog chocolate choice of the year.

MarieBelle

484 Broome Street (between Wooster St & West Broadway), SoHo, Manhattan

(212) 884-9707

http://www.mariebelle.com/

Shoppe Roni~Sue

Essex Street Market
120 Essex Street (NE corner Delancey St), Lower East Side, Manhattan

(212) 260-0421

http://www.roni-sue.com/

L. A. Burdick

5 East 20^th Street (between Fifth Av & Broadway), Flatiron District, Manhattan

(212) 796-0143

http://www.burdickchocolate.com/

Pommes Frites for a Slice of Belgium

A shop that sells nothing but fries?  Why not?  After all, french fried potatoes are among the most prominent staples of the American diet.

A little background before we taste, however.  Despite congressional notions to the contrary, the misnomered fries are not of French provenance.  Pommes frites (pronounced POHM·FREET; essentially, "fried potatoes"), or simply frites, are widely believed to have originated in Huy, a municipality within Belgium's Francophone Walloon region, in the province of Liège.  To substantiate that belief, Belgian historian Jo Gérard cites a document that traces the area's practice of frying sliced potatoes back to the late-17^th century.  The 1781 family manuscript relates that, for more than a century, the poor inhabitants of the Andenne district (which includes Huy) "allegedly had the custom of accompanying their meals with small fried fish, but when the [Meuse] river was frozen and they were unable to fish, they cut potatoes lengthwise and fried them in oil to accompany their meals."

Unfortunately, we've grown accustomed to engineered adaptations of the original Belgian fries by commercial producers seeking to capture that market.  While it may not be shocking to discover that fast-food and so-called family restaurants use frozen spuds, I was surprised to learn that celebrated chef Thomas Keller serves Sysco Systems frites at Bouchon.

Systems instead of Foods?  One can virtually taste the chemical stew from the company's own description:

"The manufacturing process used on Sysco Brand French Fries involves both water and oil blanching to assure uniform golden color, plus air drying to assure high potato solid content and a crisp outer shell, which extends holding time."

Do we still know how a simple fry tastes?  Happily, Pommes Frites in Manhattan's East Village offers us a reminder with the pure, earthy flavor of its authentic Belgian fries.  Here, hand-cut potatoes are fried twice: once to cook them through; and again to add color and texture.  The resulting golden-brown beauties are simultaneously crisp and silky.

Their thickness, incidentally, distinguishes Belgian pommes frites from the thinner variants known as pommes allumettes ("matchstick potatoes"), whose dimensions are similar to those of McDonald's fries.

Pommes Frites offers three serving sizes: regular ($4.50); large ($6.25); and double ($7.75).  Accompaniments include several condiments at no extra charge, as well as 25 sauces at $1 each.  I chose a componential variation of the especial: a cup of ketchup mixed with raw onion, and another of frites sauce (traditional European mayo).  In the end, however, the sauces tasted better together than they did separately.

Pommes Frites

123 Second Avenue (between E 7^th St & St Marks Pl), East Village, Manhattan

(212) 674-1234

http://www.pommesfrites.ws/ 

By train: 6 to Astor Place
By bus:  M8, M15

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestiblab:  They're not fried apples.  When referring to potatoes, pommes (literally, "apples") is a shortened form of pommes de terre ("apples of the earth," or "earth apples").  Terre comes from terra, the Latin word for earth.  (Many English words—such as terrene, terrain, terrace, and terrestrial—share this etymological origin.)  The word frites is the past participle of frire ("to fry").  While "pommes frites" is easier to say than "pommes de terre frites," it's easier yet to say "frites."  Of course, it's not all that hard to say "fries," either.

Soup and Bread in Brooklyn to Benefit the Hungry

Soup and Bread are blowing into the Big Apple from the Windy City today.  This free weekly soup dinner, begun at The Hideout in Chicago, makes its New York debut at Brooklyn's Bell House this evening.  From 6:00 till 9:00, organizers Martha Bayne and Sheila Sachs will ladle out soup contributed by local chefs and bloggers.  (Of course, they'll also have copies of their new Soup & Bread Cookbook for sale.)  This free, family-friendly event is designed to raise money for the New York City Coalition Against Hunger (NYCCAH).

The Bell House

149 7^th Street (between 2^nd & 3^rd Avs), Gowanus, Brooklyn

(718) 643-6510

http://www.thebellhouseny.com/

By train: F,G to Fourth Avenue
By bus: B37, B75, B77

Additional information:

Soup and Bread
http://www.nyccah.org/

Gaging Arby's Takes Its Tollner

The dining room is a vestige of late-nineteenth century splendor.  Tall arched mirrors with cherry frames adorn its Lincrusta-covered walls.  Intricate chandeliers, with dual fixtures for gas and electricity, emit a pleasing glow over the hundred-foot-long space.  Above it all, a vaulted ceiling rounds out the overall appearance of a posh Pullman dining car from the Gilded Age.  This Downtown Brooklyn landmark has ushered in two new centuries and has served the likes of Diamond Jim Brady, Lillian Russell, Mae West, Fanny Brice, Jimmy Durante, and your humble Comestiblogger along the way.  Though the legendary Gage and Tollner has faded into history, its classic appointments, mirabile dictu, have been preserved.

Gage and Tollner's historic main dining room

The story begins in the City of Brooklyn, four years before the completion of the Great Bridge.  In 1879, Charles M. Gage opened an oyster and chop "eating house" at 302 Fulton Street.  A year later, he was joined by Eugene Tollner.  In 1892, Gage and Tollner's restaurant moved into a nearby four-story Italianate row house at 372-374 Fulton Street, where it remained until closing in 2004.

Dominated by seafood and steaks, the menu included such favorites as Crabmeat Dewey, Lobster Thermidor, Scallops Baltimore, and Soft Clams Chicago.  In the late 1980s, owner Peter Aschkenasy made an unprecedented change by hiring renowned chef Edna Lewis to give the old Brooklyn stalwart a Southern accent.  (Miss Lewis was one of the founders of the highly acclaimed Café Nicholson on Manhattan's East Side.)  The native Virginian's influences were evident in her down-home cookin' that included cornbread, catfish, and her famed Charleston-style she-crab soup.  In 1992, after five years as Gage and Tollner's executive chef, Miss Lewis retired.

In 1995, following a bank foreclosure, the restaurant shut down temporarily.  That year, Joseph Chirico purchased Gage and Tollner and became its final owner.  After an ambitious restoration, Brooklyn's most elegant eatery reopened in 1996.  Gay Nineties swank, however, was inconsistent with the changes that had taken place along Fulton Street.  Owing to "dragging" business, Mr. Chirico shuttered the venerable establishment six years ago on Valentine's Day.

Following the demise of G&T, T.G.I. Friday's took over the space and closed after only three years.  Prospects for the future were uncertain.  Could this address ever serve as a restaurant again?  The answer came nearly three years after Friday's departure, when a hat-wearing roast beef sandwich gave the old place a new lease on life.  On Thursday, 21 January 2010, Gage and Tollner's landmark doors were reopened as Arby's.  Yes, Arby's.

Takeout: Arby's Express at the old mahogany and marble bar

It's clear that times have changed.  Roast beef sandwiches and melts have replaced prime rib, lobster, and crab.  Meat is no longer presented before being cooked.  Counter clerks wearing bright-red Arby's T-shirts have taken the place of uniformed waiters sporting service emblems (a gold eagle represented 25 years; a gold star, five years; and a gold bar, one year).  Modern utilitarian furniture has displaced turn-of-the-century mahogany tables and bentwood chairs, and, of course, paper napkins now serve in place of white linens.

Despite the foregoing changes, the landmarked interior has managed to retain some of its earlier dignity.  This is undoubtedly the most impressive restaurant in the Arby's chain.  Though he won't discuss how much it cost to refurbish the dining room, franchisee Raymond Chera says he spent six months to reverse years of neglect.  He is encouraged by all the positive response to his new fast-food venture, calling the early enthusiasm "heartwarming."  If it takes roast beef sandwiches and toasted subs to preserve this space, even heartburn can be heartwarming.

Arby's

372 Fulton Street (between Jay St & Red Hook Ln), Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 643-1949

http://www.arbys.com/

By train: A,C,F to Jay St-Borough Hall; M,R to Lawrence St; 2,3 to Hoyt St; 4,5 to Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B38, B51, B52, B57, B61, B62, B65, B67, B75

Additional links:

Gage & Tollner Virtual Tour
NPR: Memories of Southern Chef Edna Lewis
NPR: The Life and Legacy of Southern Cook Edna Lewis
VIDEO: Fried Chicken and Sweet Potato Pie

Boston Wine Expo 2010

The nation's largest trade and consumer wine event took place this weekend at the nineteenth annual Boston Wine Expo.  Over 450 international and domestic wineries participated in this year's Grand Tasting.  With more than 1,800 wines to sample, I may have missed one or two.  I was rather surprised to see no representation from the Champagne region on this occasion.  Indeed, France seemed to be underrepresented overall.

Featured speakers included Kevin Zraly (keynote) of Windows on the World Wine School; Gary Vaynerchuk of WineLibraryTV.com; Gloria Maroti Frazee from Wine Spectator; and Leslie Sbrocco, award-winning author of "Adventures of a Thirsty Girl."

Boston Wine Expo

Seaport World Trade Center
200 Seaport Boulevard
Boston, MA   02210-2031

http://www.WineExpoBoston.com/

* * *

Upcoming Wine Events:

Washington, D.C. International Wine & Food Festival
February 13-14, 2010
http://www.DCWineFestival.com/

New York Wine Expo
February 26-28, 2010
http://www.NewYorkWineExpo.com/

Le Petit Marché's Bread and Butter

When this blog was a mere infant (not merely infantile), Le Petit Marché in Brooklyn Heights was the subject of an early post.  At that point, the Gallic bistro had been in business nearly a year-and-a-half and had shown considerable promise.  With the start of 2010, almost two years and numerous failed DOH inspections later, pain et beurre have given way to Bread and Butter, the restaurant's new appellation.  While the ownership has remained essentially the same, the management has been revamped, and the kitchen has seen the return of Rob Weiner, Le Petit Marché's original chef.  Presumably, the new team is hoping the old chef can recapture the success of the French bistro's early days.

In the new incarnation, French fare has been replaced by American comfort food in the form of Southern-fried chicken, burgers, mac 'n' cheese, and the like.  The prices are somewhat less comforting, however, and seem incongruous with the current economy.  While the food may be very good, I'm in no hurry to shell out $23 for short ribs, $18 for fried chicken, $14 for a hamburger, or $9 for New England clam chowder.

Bread and Butter

46 Henry Street (bet. Cranberry & Middagh Sts), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn

(718) 858-9605

http://bkbistro.com/

By train: A,C to High Street or 2,3 to Clark Street
By bus: B25 to Cranberry Street;
From Manhattan: B51 to Cadman Plaza

Istanbul in Brooklyn: güllüoğlu Baklava & Cafe

There's no better cure for a winter chill than dessert and a hot beverage from Güllüoğlu in Midwood, Brooklyn.  This elegant and cozy Turkish café entreats with over a dozen varieties of baklava and kadayif (shredded phyllo pastry).  Various other sweet and savory delights, such as böreği (layered pastry), poğaça (puff pastry), simit (annular sesame bread), acma (Turkish "bagel"), ay çöreği ("moon pastry," or Turkish "croissant"), and acibadem (bitter almond cookie), beckon as well.  And, of course, the obligatory Turkish Delight and Turkish coffee are available, too.

Güllüoğlu's (pronounced gü·lü·OH·loh, where ü represents the German ü or the French u sound) history dates back more than a century.  In 1871, using a recipe he'd acquired from a chef in Damascus, Güllü Çelebi met with sweet success when he introduced the people of Gaziantep, Turkey to baklava.  Five generations later, with an intervening move to Istanbul, the Güllü family continues to operate the business.  In 2005, the first American outpost was established as a franchise in Brooklyn.  To ensure quality and consistency, the stateside branch imports its products directly from the company's plant in Istanbul.  Pastries are frozen, vacuum-sealed, and shipped to Brooklyn, where a baker "trained in the Güllüoğlu tradition" prepares them fresh daily.

Special Baklava with Double Pistachio

It should be noted that, in addition to being one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Gaziantep is the pistachio capital of Turkey.  The green nut's influence is evident in Güllüoğlu's signature confections, which are crafted using the famed Boz pistachios from Barak.  In addition, all pastries are made with pure butter, churned from the milk of goats and sheep from Turkey's Urfa Sihan Plateau and Tektek Mountains.  As a result of the foregoing ingredients, the Special Baklava with Double Pistachio ($13.75 a pound) imparts a slight edge—a minutely subtle bitterness not found in the Greek varieties—that mitigates the confection's overall sweetness.  Thus, individual elements—phyllo, nuts, and honey—are more distinguishable on the palate and, as a whole, yield a tastier pastry.  While I may be tempted to have a typical piece of baklava once or twice a year, I find that a single pistachio-based serving just isn't enough.  The stuff is addictive.  Baklava is simply more enjoyable when its sweetness does not overwhelm.

Sahlep

Either with dessert or by itself, a steaming cup of sahlep (sometimes spelled salep) can be particularly fortifying on a cold winter's day.  In Turkey, it is often used as a remedy for coughs and sore throats.  This seasonal beverage is produced from ground, dried tubers of the Anatolian mountain orchid (Orchis latifolia, also called sahlep).  The powdered roots are heated with milk and sugar, and dusted with cinnamon, to yield a pleasantly sweet, creamy concoction.  Its nearly mucilaginous consistency derives from a nutritious, starch-like substance in the orchid's tubers, called Bassorin.  Though it may feel a bit unusual on the tongue, sahlep is a most delicious and satisfying beverage.

güllüoğlu Baklava & Cafe

1985 Coney Island Avenue (between Av P & Quentin Rd), Midwood, Brooklyn

Open daily, 7:00 A.M. till 10:00 P.M.

(718) 645-1822

http://www.gulluoglubaklava.com/

By train: B,Q to Kings Highway
By bus: B7 (daytime), B68, B82

Memo re: Turkish Shish Kebab and Gyro in Midwood

On a recent bone-chilling day, a ravenous Comestaccomplice stopped by and suggested we eat something "warm and hearty."  Knowing how much she likes lamb, I asked, "How about Turkish?"  She knew immediately what I had in mind: Memo Shish Kebab in Midwood, Brooklyn.  My erstwhile super, a Turk, introduced me to this marvelous Mediterranean eatery several years ago.  It has remained my favorite place for doner (gyro) ever since.

Babaghanoush/Patlican Ezmesi

Our meal began with a generous, "small" portion ($5 small/$8 large) of patlican ezmesi (babaghanoush), a delicious purée of eggplant, prepared with tahini (sesame paste), olive oil, onion, and garlic.  Its delightful smokiness distinguishes it from similar preparations I've tried.  Memo's home bread—a soft, round, seeded flatbread—made a splendid companion.  We were off to a great start.

Lamb Gyro/Doner

Having tried a number of dishes, including the highly recommended Iskender kebab (a seasonal offering, featuring a lightly hot tomato sauce), I continue to prefer the lamb doner (pronounced doh·NAIR) to all the rest.  Memo's exquisitely seasoned ground lamb, cooked on a spit over charcoal, is among the most flavorful I've tasted.  The fresh spices, together with the accompanying cacik and spicy red sauce, yield an harmonious gustatory union.  On this visit, I ordered my favorite: a large portion of the #4 Lamb Gyro/Doner.  Whether served as a platter ($8/$13) or as a sandwich ($6/$7), this is one tasty viand.

Lamb Gyro sandwich on Home Bread

My Comestaccomplice raved about the succulence of her #2 Shish Kebab ($8.5/$13).  (She was quick to concede that her numerous kebab efforts have never produced the same degree of moistness.)  Rather than overwhelming the charcoal-grilled chunks of lamb, the marinade is subtle enough to reveal the rich flavors of the meat, yet savory enough to obviate the need for additional seasoning.  While shish kebab is normally served with rice, my dining partner opted for "pretty good" French-fried potatoes instead.

Shish Kebab

Although the menu lists baklava and puddings under the heading, "DESERT/TATLILAR," I had another place in mind for dessert: a little Turkish café not far away.  (Ah, but that's the subject of another post.)

Memo underwent an expansion a few years ago.  Though still somewhat spare, the larger space is comfortable and inviting.  Its true appeal, however, continues to be the appetizing redolence of grilled meat and fresh spices.

Memo Shish Kebab

1821 Kings Highway (NW corner E. 19^th St), Midwood, Brooklyn

(718) 339-8001
(718) 306-5227

Open daily, 11:00 A.M. till 11:00 P.M.

By train: B,Q to Kings Highway
By bus: B7 (daytime), B82, B100

New Year's Eve Cotechino con Lenticchie

No Italian New Year's Eve dinner is complete without Cotechino con Lenticchie, a traditional dish of lentils and fresh pork sausage.  Symbolizing coins, lentils are believed to bring luck and prosperity for the coming year.  Cotechino (pronounced koh·teh·KEE·no) is a mild, fatty sausage of considerable girth (roughly three inches in diameter).  It is made from coteca (pork rind) and meat from the cheek, neck, and shoulder, and seasoned delicately with clove, nutmeg, salt, and pepper.  The resulting sausage is very soft—almost to the point of being creamy.

My pre-New Year's Eve sample of this holiday classic came in the form of a warm bowl of Umbrian lentil soup with cotechino.  Will it bring me prosperity early?

Felice Anno Nuovo!

Bubbly Tastings December 29-31, 2009

Indulge your champagne taste at one or more of these free bubbly tastings:

Tuesday, 29 December:

Candoni tasting

This tasting features two Italian sparklers from Candoni: the delicate, fruity Prosecco; and the more sweet, less alcoholic, frizzante Moscato D'Italia.

Long's Wines & Liquors

7917 5^th Avenue (between 79^th & 80^th Sts), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

(718) 748-6505

http://www.longswines.com/

By train: R to 77^th Street
By bus: B63

Under $22 tasting

Five affordable sparklers "off-the-beaten-path" will be poured at The Greene Grape's two stores.

The Greene Grape

http://blog.greenegrape.com/

Brooklyn:

765 Fulton Street (between S Portland Av & S Oxford St), Fort Greene

(718) 797-9463

http://brooklyn.greenegrape.com/

By train: C to Lafayette Av; G to Fulton St
By bus: B25, B26, B52

Manhattan:

55 Liberty Street (NE corner Liberty Pl), Financial District

(212) 406-9463

http://downtown.greenegrape.com/

By train: 2,3 (IRT) to Wall St; 4,5 (IRT),J,M,Z (BMT) to Fulton St; A,C to Broadway-Nassau
By bus: M1, M6

Tasting times at both stores:  5:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

Wednesday, 30 December:

Grower Sparklers

Discover why the folks at The Greene Grape believe that "champagne from those who both grow their grapes and bottle their juice is superior to negociant champagne."  Five grower sparklers will be poured at The Greene Grape's two stores.

The Greene Grape

See above for locations and directions.
5:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

Thursday, 31 December:

Roederer tasting

Heather Hamilton at Long's Wines in Brooklyn invites you to compare the citrus and apple flavors of the French Louis Roederer Brut Premier (91 points—Wine Enthusiast) with the pear, spice, and hazelnut flavors of the American Roederer Estate Brut.

Long's Wines & Liquors

2:00 P.M. to 5:00 P.M.  Free.

Cheers!

"Seasoned" Greetings 2009

Helping the Food Bank for the Holidays

Since 1983, The Food Bank For New York City has devoted itself to ending hunger through various programs designed to provide emergency food assistance, information, and support "for community survival and dignity."  An independent, non-profit organization, the Food Bank procures and distributes comestibles to a network comprising roughly 1,000 food assistance programs throughout the city.

With the number of needy New Yorkers having doubled to some four million over the past six years, the Food Bank's donated food assets have reached an unprecedented low.  Regardless of your views concerning recent bailouts of financial institutions, this bank could really use your help.

Food Bank For New York City

39 Broadway, 10^th Floor
New York, N.Y.   10006

(212) 566-7855

http://www.foodbanknyc.org/

Thanksgiving, Calvados, and the Trou Normand

Today we give thanks and celebrate the bounty of the harvest.  To those expecting to feast heartily, may I suggest punctuating your meal with a trou normand (pronounced true nor·MAHN; literally, "Norman hole")?  At a certain stage of a grand dinner in Normandy, it was customary to pause for a glass of calvados to boost the metabolism and create a "hole" to make room for additional comestibles.  Nothing prolongs the pleasures of overindulgence more than a good shot of calva.

Calvados (pronounced cull·vah·DOSE) takes its name from the eponymous département in the northwest of France, a region that does not produce wine.  Normandy's rich pastures and orchards are better suited to dairy farming and apple growing than to viticulture.  Apples have a lengthy history in this area: cider dates back to the eighth century, long before its first documented distillation in 1553.

Although best known as an apple (cider) brandy, calvados can, by law, be produced from apples or pears.  Over 200 types of apple—ranging from sweet to inedibly tart—are permitted in its production.  The fruit is harvested, pressed, and allowed to ferment (four to six weeks) into a dry cider, whereupon, it is distilled and aged.

As with grape brandies, calvados is protected by its own appellations.  Pays d'Auge, the premier appellation contrôlée designation, applies to the core of the apple brandy production area, and continues to yield the highest-quality calvados.  Second-tier appellations refer to areas surrounding the Pays d'Auge.  The biggest difference is that Pays d'Auge cider must undergo a double distillation in a pot still, whereas others typically go through a single, continuous distillation in a column still.  The former method yields more flavor and complexity, while the latter produces a lighter, more apple-like flavor.

Age is a matter of taste and budget, of course.  Nevertheless, the older the calvados, the smoother and rounder it tends to be.  The age given on the bottle refers to the youngest component in the blend.  The following is a guide to age-related terms found on labels:

 ·  Trois étoiles, ***  (2 years)
 ·  Vieux, Réserve  (3 years)
 ·  VO, VSOP, Vieille Réserve  (4 years)
 ·  XO, Extra, Napoléon, Hors d'Âge,
     Age Inconnu  (6 years)

My personal favorite comes from Château du Breuil, in the Pays d'Auge.  The Réserve des Seigneurs - XO and, especially, the Royal are among the smoothest, richest, most complex I've tasted.  Their deep, dark color makes no secret of old age.  It's well worth spending a little more for a more mature brandy.  Regardless of your choice, a good calvados makes the perfect digestif—tried and trou Normand.  Santé!

 

 

Misspellings on the Menu at the State Dinner

Anahad O'Connor of The Caucus, the politics and government blog of The New York Times, reported that a number of spelling errors appeared on the menu at President Obama's state dinner last night.  Among the mistakes: a reference to a wine from Oregon's Wilamette (instead of Willamette) Valley; a description of a dish made with chick peas (instead of chickpeas); and the unhyphenated name of Thibaut Janisson Brut, a Virginia sparkling chardonnay.

The author also condemned the misspelling of Grenache as follows: "The correct spelling of the popular varietal, one of the most widely planted types of red grape in the world, is actually 'Grenache' with only one 'a,' not two."  Sorry, Mr. O'Connor, but Grenache, when described as a type of grape, is correctly called a variety, not a varietal.  (The wine produced from the grape variety is the varietal.)  If you're going to split hairs, at least try to use the proper terminology.

Fat Franks—The Wurst Place in Bellows Falls, Vermont

Fat Franks, the self-proclaimed Wurst Place in Bellows Falls, is a place to relish.  Anyone can serve a hot dog, but not everyone can do it right.  This little place offers perfectly prepared frankfurters, sausages, and burgers in a clean, friendly, and welcoming environment.  Though the franks and such are not made here, their provenance is local and regional.  To wit, the bacon and most of the smoked sausages come from nearby Claremont, New Hampshire, while the wienies and other wursts come from Boston, Springfield, and Mattapan, Massachusetts.  Even the ale used to poach the knackwurst and bratwurst hails from Vermont's own Long Trail Brewing Company.

Proprietor Jim Mort with daughter Lila

Begun some three-and-a-half years ago, this excellent wurst venture was a result of some compelling circumstances.  While Jim Mort was growing dissatisfied with his job, a Chinese restaurant, the sole tenant of his building next to Miss Bellows Falls Diner, closed and vacated the premises.  The time was right for his embarkation into the man-eat-dog world of wieners.

Visitors to this Bellows Falls wienery can enjoy their red hots in three of the wurst ways: eat-in, take-home, or self-serve.  Perusal of the comprehensive menu reveals every manner of encased meat imaginable, including lamb, chicken, andouille, and Italian sausages, kielbasy, and German-style würste.  Each of the seven types of sausage is smothered in its own perfectly matched sauce-and-veggie concoction.  For the dogs, at least 15 toppings are available, along with several sides such as hand-cut Russet fries (with optional chili and cheese), homemade coleslaw, and beans laced with maple syrup.  Beyond the wurst, Fat Franks offers seven-ounce beef burgers (as well as turkey and vegetable varieties), also prepared in seemingly infinite ways.  For those who prefer a doggie bag, three sizes of frankfurter—Everyday, Skinny, and Fat—are sold by the pound, along with the aforementioned bacon and sausages.  One can even purchase the perennially popular Sabrett's sauerkraut by the bag.  Finally, to satisfy stomachs growling for a quick bite, there's the self-service steam table at which one can dress up a so-called Everyday Dog in fine fashion.  This is how my Comestaccomplice and I sampled the best of the wurst.

The Everyday Dog’s meaty flavor and proper "snap" reflect Fat Franks' attention to quality.  Though not all the menu's add-ons are available here, the superior toppings and condiments more than adequately round out a truly delicious experience.  While this New Yorker has grown accustomed to Sabrett's sauerkraut (and was pleased to see it among the self-service offerings), I've never enjoyed a tastier, spicier (homemade) chili topping anywhere.  In addition, the well-chosen Raye's Stone Mill Mustards from Maine afford a deeply-flavored sauce for every sausage.  Lastly, to help tame the dogs, beer and wine are available.

Frankly speaking, in the world of wursts, this place is a wiener.

Fat Franks

92 Rockingham Street
Bellows Falls, VT   05101-1316

(802) 463-4388

http://fat-franks.com/

By train: Amtrak's Vermonter to Bellows Falls, VT (BLF)

Free Kentucky Grilled Chicken ... Again!

Can KFC do a grilled chicken giveaway right this time?  Find out for yourself today, Monday, 26 October 2009 when participating restaurants offer one free piece of Kentucky Grilled Chicken per person.

I have to admit that the Colonel's grilled samples were hot, succulent, and very tasty.

http://www.KFC.com/

Red Hooked on Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies

Were the name Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies not already sufficiently long, the term Old-Fashioned could be wedged in.  Steve Tarpin grew up around Key limes and knows what it takes to make a good, traditional pie therefrom.  Because of his unending disappointment with commercial varieties, the Florida woodworker-carpenter decided to bake his own Key lime pies at home for family and friends.  That was over 30 years ago.  Roughly a decade later, Tarpin came to New York from his native Miami to work with a friend.  After an injury in 1995 left him unemployed, a fortuitous meeting led Tarpin to hammer out a new career.  It was at a barbecue of the Red Meat Club that Steve's pies drew the favorable attention of a Manhattan restaurateur.  From an initial order of three pies, Steve's Authentic was born.

As business increased, so did the need for a capacious delivery vehicle.  Tarpin's purchase of a '53 Ford F-100 Flathead V8 embodied utility and marketing savvy.  The unmistakable pale yellow truck turned heads everywhere it went.  Needless to say, the Key Lime Express accelerated press coverage and helped to drive up sales.  Though mainly out of the limelight now, the truck still greets visitors to Steve's at Pier 41 in Red Hook.

One might say the quirky 50-something adheres to his own version of the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Steve.  (Even his surname is a simplification of the Armenian Tarpinian.)  Five ingredients—pasteurized egg yolks, sweetened condensed milk, butter, graham crackers, and Key limes—comprise his sole product.  Though the recipe may sound simple, the key to its authenticity is in the limes and in the preparation.

Steve's pies are made with freshly squeezed juice from true Key limes that his supplier ships to him every few weeks.  (Key limes are smaller and more acidic than the Persian variety typically found in grocery stores.)  No bottled juice or concentrate is ever used.  Furthermore, the pies are not baked.  Rather, they are "filled and chilled" to preserve the integrity of the lime juice as well as the consistency of the filling.  And because no coloring is added, the filling's pale yellowish hue remains faithful to the fruit.  Though a little sweeter than I'd prefer, the resulting confection is creamy and quite tasty.

Steve's wares are available in three sizes: 10-inch and 8-inch pies ($25 and $15, respectively), and a 4-inch tart ($4).  Several years ago, the Swingle ($5), a variation of an ice cream bar, was added to the offerings.  This unique warm-weather treat was named in honor of Dr. Walter Tennyson Swingle (1871–1952), the American agricultural botanist who categorized the Key lime (Citrus aurantifolia).  It's a 4-inch tart on a stick, dipped into melted chocolate, and frozen.  Tarpin uses Belcolade, a dark chocolate from Belgium.  As with other Belgian varieties, this one is overly sweet and thus overpowers the crisp, key lime flavors it envelops.  While the cacao adds an interesting twist, a thinner coating or a less sweet variant (from fellow Brooklynite Jacques Torres, perhaps?) would yield a better balance of flavors.  I wish a naked Swingle, sans chocolate, were available.

Although recent changes, including the openings of Fairway and IKEA, have drawn an influx of new residents and visitors to Red Hook, Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies remains off the beaten path.  The entire operation is run from a Civil War-era warehouse on the waterfront.  The bakery, small retail shop, and outdoor patio provide a laid-back setting far more reminiscent of South Florida than of South Brooklyn.  Nestled among tropical plants and a mechanical waterfall, the outdoor seating area affords a relaxing spot in which to enjoy a Swingle or a tart while sipping a Key Limonade ($2).  Spectacular vistas of the harbor and the Statue of Liberty are to be had just around the corner.  Though a considerable distance from the nearest subway line, it's worth a trip to Steve's for an authentic, old-fashioned, taste of the Sunshine State.

Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies

204 Van Dyke Street (at Barnell St), Pier 41, Red Hook, Brooklyn

(718) 858-5333
(888) 450-LIME (5463)

http://www.stevesauthentic.com/
http://www.keylime.com/

By bus: B61, B77

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Curtis' Bar·B·Q: Smoke and (Bus) Mirrors in Putney, Vermont

Were it not for the billowing smoke and hunger-inducing aromas wafting though the air, it would be easy to miss the two blue school buses that house "The 9^th Wonder of the World."  Curtis' Bar·B·Q, just up the hill from exit 4 on Interstate 91 in Vermont, is in its 41^st season of serving southern-style barbecue in the quaint village of Putney.  Over the years, this seasonal, unassuming stand has garnered a loyal following not just locally, but well beyond these verdant hills as well.

What brings people back season after season?  The answer begins with the man behind the grill.  Curtis Tuff, a native of Macomb, Georgia, was a migrant farm worker who followed harvests from Florida to New England.  In 1961, Curtis' itinerancy came to an end, however, when he found steady work picking apples for the Darrow family at Green Mountain Orchards in Putney.  To augment his income, Tuff used his know-how to prepare pig roasts for special events at area schools.  Using temporary cooking pits he fashioned from cement blocks, as well as a sauce based on his grandfather's recipe, Curtis gradually introduced Vermonters to real southern barbecue.  It wasn't long before word-of-mouth generated consistent demand for his cooking.

The aforementioned cement blocks proved unwieldy and short-lived, however.  That's where the school buses entered the scene.  Employing a little Yankee ingenuity, the Southerner outfitted the vehicles with a fire pit crafted from a 275-gallon oil drum, halved lengthwise, and vented through the roof with stove pipes and a fan.

By 1968, Curtis' Bar·B·Q was a going concern.  With his newfound grilling mobility, Tuff took his barbecue act on the road to nearby locales including a number of school campuses.  His popularity among lucubratory students earned him the unofficial title of "The 9th Wonder of the World," a slogan he uses to this day.

The limited menu of pork ribs and chicken hasn't changed much over the years.  Nevertheless, it was enough to draw the attention of The New York Times, whose favorable, 1988 article helped Tuff find permanent parking spots for his blue school buses.  The newer bus serves as the main stand, with a small counter and two of its windows flipped up to accommodate customer orders and pickups.  To the right, under a corrugated metal roof, the affable, 72-year-old Curtis Tuff can be seen grilling meats amid clouds of smoke.  He still uses his halved oil drums, now mounted atop an old hay wagon.

Service seems to be instantaneous.  I scarcely had time to put away my change when my order was ready.  Seating is available at picnic tables that flank the unpaved parking lot.  A new open-sided picnic shed seems somehow out of place.  Though it is the only structure on the premises that does not appear ramshackle (or perhaps because of that), the older seating area with umbrellas—nearer the road—tends to be more popular.

Cooking time is roughly 80 minutes for a slab of ribs; 90 minutes for a three-pound chicken.  Curtis refuses to use charcoal, opting, instead, for hardwoods—which include, of course, maple.  The meat is done to perfection, its succulence imbued with a rich, sweet, smoky flavor.  Though the barbecue sauce delivers the right amount of heat, its tang verges on being overly vinegary.  The flavor reminds me somewhat of Tabasco®.  There's a practical reason for the acidity, however.  Because the recipe predates the advent of refrigeration, vinegar was added as a preservative.

Small portion (2) of Ribs

Although barbecue may not be the first thing that comes to mind when visiting the Green Mountain State, Curtis' quality and convenience make this a perfect stop for a quick bite while leaf-peeping.  The experience is quite satisfying.  While wiping his mouth and preparing to leave, a person at the next table declared, "Another great meal!"

Curtis' Bar·B·Q

7 Putney Landing Road (I-91, exit 4)
Putney, VT   05346

(802) 387-5474

Open April through October, 10:00 A.M till dusk.  Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

http://www.curtisbbqvt.com/

Pals Cabin Steaks Its Claim in West Orange

Not so many restaurants can boast of a history as long as that of Pals Cabin in West Orange, New Jersey.  This "heritage of hospitality" began as a summertime venture by two friends during the Great Depression.  Martin L. Horn and Bion LeRoy Sale obtained permission to squat on a bank-foreclosed property at the busy intersection of Prospect and Eagle Rock Avenues.  On 18 May 1932, "Marty" and "Roy," as they were known, began selling 10-cent hot dogs from a 10-by-12-foot stand they had constructed.  "It was better than selling apples on a street corner," Martin Horn was wont to say.

Following their initial success, the pals enclosed the hot dog stand as the first of many expansions to their cabin.  Within three years, Pals Special, a highly popular 50-cent charcoal-broiled steak, was added to the menu.  By 1936, Pals Cabin had become a full-service restaurant, and the price of its signature steak had risen to 75 cents.  Numerous additions over the years have resulted in the current space—a vast edifice that reveals little of the restaurant's humble beginnings.

Pals offers several areas in which to dine and unwind, including the Tap Room, the formal Winchester Room, the counter, and The Cabin.  With its high ceiling, exposed beams, stone walls, and capacious wooden booths, The Cabin is the restaurant's core and mainstay.  Were its scale not quite so grand, one might consider it cozy.  But let's just call it very comfortable.

The Cabin

Occupying a category between family and formal, this was the sort of place at which I seldom dined as a young child.  Any gustatory recollections of Pals Cabin derive from my so-called adulthood.  My earliest impressions were based more on fantasy and speculation than on direct experience.  I remember it as a prominent landmark that stood across Eagle Rock Avenue from the now-defunct Korvette City, a large shopping center that my family frequented.  In certain respects, however, Pals does evoke childhood memories of dining out.  The service, in particular, is reminiscent of my early years.  It is extremely gracious without being affected or overly formal.  There appears to be none of the trite, artificial familiarity that has become so inexplicably fashionable these days.  Instead, the demeanor of the staff is warmly polite, yet conservatively respectful.  It comes as a refreshing change not to be addressed as, "you guys."   Perhaps it is this old-fashioned deportment that most reminds me of dinners out as a child.

Pals Famous Cream of Mushroom Soup

Among the 15 starters on the menu, one is a must: Pals' velvety, justly famous, Cream of Mushroom Soup ($5.50).  Its rich velouté of roux and chicken stock, combined with an abundance of chopped, sautéed mushrooms and finely chopped shallots, is irresistible.  I order it without fail.  Many soups of this sort emphasize cream at the expense of a deep mushroom flavor in the broth.  Pals', however, offers both the cream and the rich, earthy flavor I seek.  It's easy to understand why this award-winning soup continues to be a customer favorite after more than seven decades.

Included with my main course was Pals' double salad, a somewhat ordinary bowl of tossed greens with croutons.  The homemade bleu cheese dressing continues to be the best option.

Hungarian Goulash

My Comestaccomplice and I both ordered the Hungarian Goulash over egg noodles ($19.95) as our main dish.  The recipe of is said to have been "handed down from generations of the Horn family."  To be honest, it could have been stewed—but even more critically, allowed to marinate—significantly longer.  Although the flavors were very fresh, the cabernet-infused sauce was noticeably under-salted.  Furthermore, the cuts of beef were slightly tough and not optimally integrated with the sauce.  The goulash should have been prepared at least a day in advance, and cooked till the meat opened up to allow the sauce to tenderize each chunk.  Tenderization occurs only when the meat is permitted to rest awhile; the longer it sits, the more flavor permeates each grain.  The portion, incidentally, was so large that my Comestaccomplice took home most of hers.  The leftover goulash lasted her three days, a period during which it developed an increasingly deep and rich flavor.  By the third day, it was a remarkably good goulash!

After dinner, we took a stroll down memory lane.  In the lower entryway, and scattered elsewhere in the restaurant, the walls are adorned with photographs, menus, and other mementos from Pals' early days.  Among the memorabilia is a bill, from the 1940s, promoting a "sensational young pianist" named Walter Liberace who played the baby grand here for his supper and $50 a week.

Please click on an image above to view an early Pals menu.

The steaks are higher nowadays, as are the hot dogs.  Today, Pals Famous New York strip steak costs $30.95 for an 18-ounce serving; 25.95 for a 14-ounce cut.  A foot-long frankfurter now sells for $7.95.  Though times have clearly changed since the two pals sold hot dogs from their small cabin, this venerable eating establishment continues to draw diners from near and far.  With Martin Horn's grandchildren currently at the helm, Pals Cabin is in its third generation and eighth decade of family ownership.  Who would have imagined that a summer venture would have produced such a legacy?

Pals Cabin

265 Prospect Avenue (SW corner Eagle Rock Av)
West Orange, N.J.   07052-4205

(973) 731-4000

http://www.palscabin.com/

By bus: 71 (West Caldwell) to Woodhull Av

Restaurant Weeks in August 2009

Baltimore Summer Restaurant Week starts today, Fryday, and highlights "a different kind of delicious daily" through Dim Sumday, 16 August.  Over 90 restaurants offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $20.09 for lunch and $30.09 for dinner (excluding beverages, taxes, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.baltimorerestaurantweek.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants and to make reservations.

Up the Eastern seaboard, Restaurant Week Boston® offers a fortnight—Sunday through Friday, 9-14 & 16-21 August—of discounted dining at more than 200 restaurants in the Greater Boston area.  Prix fixe options include two-course lunches for $15.09, three-course lunches for $20.09, and three-course dinners for $33.09 per person (excluding beverages, taxes, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.BostonUSA.com/RestaurantWeek or call (888) 733-2678 for a list of participating restaurants.

West Orange Pancake House—a Gusta-Tory Corner Diner

During my early years in West Orange, New Jersey, our family often ate at some of the area's various beaneries.  They weren't all that good or bad, they were simply all I knew.  Most of the old places have long since closed or disappeared altogether.  It was most saddening, for instance, to discover the Claremont Diner and the White Castle in Verona had made way for an automotive dealership.  There is, however, an extant relic from my childhood at Tory Corner, just a few blocks up Main Street from Thomas Edison National Historical Park.  The West Orange Pancake House and Diner, mirabile dictu, continues to serve decent victuals, and now does so round-the-clock, seven days a week.

I knew this 1950s-era stainless steel edifice as the Tory Corner Diner, the initials of which remain inlaid on the floor of its vestibule.  Aside from the name and a few cosmetic updates, little else appears to have changed over the years.  Looking at this place evokes childhood memories of black-and-white television sets, named telephone exchanges (ours was REdwood), drugstores with soda fountains, and life before the Essex Freeway (I-280).  After a warm, enthusiastic welcome from owner Paul Mihalitsianos and his son, Gerry, what could be finer than eating in this diner again after so many years?

While it seems that diners typically offer extensive menus, this one's is so vast as to make it difficult to make a selection.  Its 15 pages offer everything from appetizers to "fantastic finishes."  Though several items entreated, I felt as though I'd discover something even more appealing the moment I placed my order.

West Orange Special

Listed under Sandwiches Paul's Way, my West Orange Special ($11.95)—sliced London broil on garlic bread with lettuce and tomato—was a standout.  The broiled meat was seasoned with a heavy hand, which, under most circumstances could have ruined it.  But the cook understood the fat content and age of the cut with masterly precision.  As a result, the spices were on target for maximizing this steak’s succulence and flavor.  I’ve been served beef in very fine restaurants that was analyzed and prepared with far less skill than it was here.  The accompanying thickly cut onion rings were quite all right, but the reconstituted french fried potatoes failed to measure up to the taste and quality of their plate partners.

Harold's New York-style Deli Sandwich

Harold's New York-style corned beef sandwich ($12.95), my Comestaccomplice's selection, was advertised as the best available.  (Namesake Harold Jaffe once operated the aforementioned Claremont Diner as well as New York's Carnegie Deli.)  Extremely lean and flavorful, the corned beef was piled high between two slices of rye bread and served on a platter that was as almost as big as the menu itself.  While it was very tasty indeed, the corned beef was also somewhat dry—perhaps owing to its leanness.  Fortunately, the accompanying coleslaw and half-sours, both excellent, added welcome moisture between meaty mouthfuls.  The garlic bread was yet another very tasty side.

Comfort food somehow seems even more comforting when consumed in a familiar environment.  Though I don't return to West Orange often, it's reassuring to know I can still revisit a "living" childhood memory here.

West Orange Pancake House and Diner

270 Main Street (between Prospect Pl & Kling St)
West Orange, N.J.   07052-5617  (map)

(973) 736-8333

By bus: 21 (Main Street) to Kling St

* * *

Special thanks to Michelle Colombaris Berger for sharing the following memories from the days her family owned the Tory Corner Diner:  (Please click on any image to enlarge it.)

"My dad used to tell a story about a family trip we made to Canada in the 60's.  When we got there and checked into the motel there was a book of matches from our diner sitting in the ashtray in the motel room!!!!"

"The two men are my dad, Nicholas Colombaris and an unknown.  The pic is dated May 1962, the year that West Orange celebrated its centennial.  There was a parade and many men grew beards and marched as the Brothers of the Bush (or Brush)."

"Nicholas Colombaris, my dad, sitting in his favorite booth.  This was right inside the front door on the Main Street side of the building."

Smooth, Citrusy, Summertime Lemonade

With the arrival of the summer's heat and humidity, how does a refreshing, ice-cold glass of lemonade sound?  My high-octane variant of the summertime favorite combines vodka, limoncello, fresh lemon juice, and seltzer to produce a refreshing, effervescent cooler.

My spirituous selections include the citrus-flavored Absolut Citron Swedish vodka and Sogno di Sorrento™ Lemoncello made from I.G.P. Amalfi Coast lemons.  While plain seltzer is fine, lemon seltzer is preferable.  In any case, it's best to avoid club soda.

Comestiblog Lemonade (or Lemon Fizz):

1½ ounces Absolut Citron
2½ ounces Sogno di Sorrento™ Lemoncello
3 ounces lemon seltzer
Juice of 1½ lemons

Stir, add ice, and serve.  Garnish with a slice of lemon.  (Not to be served at a lemonade stand without proper license.)

http://www.sognodisorrento.com/
http://www.absolut.com/

Chez Oskar Night

Dine-In Brooklyn was winding down, it was rainy, dark, and becoming late.  Where to eat?  Several unsuccessful attempts to score a last-minute reservation ultimately led to an enthusiastic availability at Chez Oskar in Fort Greene.  I'd passed the French-style bistro on several occasions but never paid it much heed.  But what the heck?  The situation was becoming desperate enough to warrant a $23 gamble.

Chez Oskar is a lively place that seems quite at home in this diverse neighborhood.  It could best be described as a bistro à la Brooklyn—casual, funky, and comfortable.  The service is friendly and the food is good, but I'd restrain any praise beyond that.

Country Pâté

I seldom surrender to cravings involving cholesterol-laden foods, but the Country Pâté sounded the most promising among the five starters on the restaurant-week menu.  Though the presentation was attractive, the taste failed to live up to the promise.  Bland and uninspired, this dish made me rue my dietary transgression.  It's a pity that the comparably priced escargots or the slightly more expensive salmon-and-tuna tartare were not offered.  Perhaps they would have made a better first impression.

Lamb Shank

The five main course offerings—comprising fish, chicken, lamb, beef, and mushroom risotto—were ostensibly well-chosen, appealing to a broad array of tastes.  Owing to the weather, I ordered the Lamb Shank to help defend against the chill that awaited me outside.  The meat, tender enough to fall off the bone, was served with fingerling potatoes, artichokes, sautéed endives, and pomegranate sauce.  The resulting concoction tasted much like a lamb stew.  While not bad, it was unremarkable and rather ordinary.   Statistically speaking, it seemed fitting that, among les plats of my two Comestaccomplices, mine ranked squarely in the middle.

Free Range Chicken

As at Pó Brooklyn, the fowl was a better choice here.  The Free Range Chicken with pancetta-potato gratin, caramelized onions, fava beans, and red wine sauce was rather tasty, albeit unexceptional.  Instead of educing flavor from the chicken, however, the sauce's role was reduced to that of an inoffensive, unassuming accompaniment to the bird.  It was a pleasant dish that would have benefited from a more aggressive sauce.  Perhaps I was foolishly expecting something a bit more akin to a coq au vin.

Lemon and Garlic Crusted Codfish

The Lemon-and-Garlic Crusted Codfish was the weakest of the main courses I sampled.  Served with poached leeks, potato crisp, and whole grain mustard vinaigrette, this offering could be aptly described as an insipid piece of fish with a few embellishments.  Unfortunately, its plate mates were too bland to rescue the foundering cod.

Sweet Apple Crêpes

Desserts were commensurate with the courses that preceded them—lots of promise unfulfilled.  I'm not sure why I had high hopes for the Sweet Apple Crêpes.  They certainly looked good.  The dry, flavorless pancakes with caramelized apples left me as cold as the accompanying cinnamon ice cream, however.  Although the Warm Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream was slightly better, it failed to catapult my taste buds into cacao ether.  None of us was tempted by the Mango Crème Caramel.

Warm Chocolate Cake

Unfortunately, none of our dishes seemed to cross the threshold that separates the extraordinary from the ordinary.  Most of the flavors failed to soar and some never even managed to take flight.  Nevertheless, Chez Oskar's following has continued to keep it afloat since 1998.  In terms of the $23 gamble, we probably broke even.  This is a good neighborhood bistro, but scarcely worth a trip on the G train.

Chez Oskar

211 Dekalb Avenue (NE corner Adelphi St), Fort Greene, Brooklyn

(718) 852-6250

http://www.chezoskar.com/

By train: G to Clinton-Washington Avs (exit at Clinton Av)
By bus: B38, B69

Restaurant Weeks in July 2009

NYC Restaurant Week™ Summer 2009 starts today and continues through the end of the month.  The "week" actually spans three weeks—12-31 July—and includes over 250 New York City restaurants.  Three courses cost $24.07 for lunch and $35 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://nycgo.com/restaurantweek to view the list of participating restaurants and their menus, and to make reservations.

Update: NYC Restaurant Week™ has been extended through Labor Day.

Up the coast, Providence Restaurant WeekS also starts today and will run through 25 July.  Over 75 restaurants will offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $12.95 for lunch and $29.95 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.providencerestaurantweeks.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants.

Storm These Bastille Day Comestevents 2009

Liberté, égalité, and fraternité will be celebrated slightly early again in Gotham this year.

Manhattan

On Sunday, 12 July, from 12:00 Noon till 6:00 P.M., everyone is invited to celebrate Bastille Day on 60^th Street, New York's "street fair with French flair."  The three-block fête takes place between Fifth and Lexington Avenues.  Enjoy Gallic delicacies at one of the many pique-nique tables provided.

Bastille Day on 60^th Street

http://www.bastilledaynyc.com/

By train: N,R,W to 5^th Avenue or Lexington Avenue; 4,5,6 to 59^th Street

On Tuesday, 14 July, le quatorze juillet, Cercle Rouge brings Bastille Day festivities to TriBeCa.  From 12:00 Noon till 8:00 P.M., pétanque sand courts, football de table (foosball), and entertainment will fill the block on West Broadway between Beach and White Streets.  Mangez traditional merguez sausages and frites while sipping Lillet, Deutz champagne, or another favorite libation.

Cercle Rouge
241 West Broadway (opposite N Moore St)
(212) 226-6252
http://www.cerclerougeresto.com/

By train: A,C,E to Canal St; 1 to Franklin St

Brooklyn

On Sunday, Smith Street becomes Rue Smith when it hosts Brooklyn's Bastille Day festivities.  Both Bar Tabac and Provence en Boîte will hold all-day celebrations featuring French food, drink, and pétanque tournaments.

Bar Tabac
128 Smith Street (SW corner Dean St)
(718) 923-0918
http://www.bartabacny.com/

Provence en Boîte
263 Smith Street (NE corner Degraw St)
(718) 797-0707
http://www.provenceenboite.com/

By train: F,G to Bergen Street