COMESTIBLOG

Eating, drinking, and (dubious) taste

I’ve been consuming comestibles for some time now, but have seldom written about it—a longtime eater, first-time blogger, you might say.  The prospect of sharing my ruminations worldwide undoubtedly exceeds the boundaries of good taste and common decency and is probably more than should be tolerated.  But then, who can argue with the overwhelming success so far?  To wit, since its inception, this blog has attracted as many as one-and-a-half subscribers.  The goal is to eventually double or possibly triple that number.  As if the gastronomic bloviation contained herein weren’t enough, I shall occasionally post entries tangential to the topic of food that you may find uninteresting nonetheless.

Comestevents for July 4th Weekend, 2009

If a cookout or picnic is not on your schedule for this Independence Day weekend, you may wish to try one of the following food events:

Saturday, 4 July:

The Great July 4^th Festival

This annual street fair features various ethnic foods as well as games, arts, crafts, apparel, and other merchandise.

Water Street (between Fulton & Broad Streets), Lower Manhattan
10:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(212) 809-4900

http://www.nycstreetfairs.com/

By train: R,W to Whitehall St; 2,3 to Wall St; A,C to Broadway-Nassau
By bus: M1, M6, M9, M15

Other street fairs:

Stone Street Fourth of July Celebration (between Hanover Square & Coenties Alley), Financial District, Mahnattan
12:00 Noon to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Sixth Avenue Festival (between 14^th & 23^rd Streets), Ladies' Mile, Manhattan
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Woodside Festival (between Roosevelt Av & 63^rd St), Woodside Queens
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Sunday, 5 July:

Additional street fairs:

USO Avenue of the Americas Summerfest (Sixth Av, between 42^nd & 56^th Streets), Midtown Manhattan
10:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Israeli Civil Rights Lexington Avenue Festival (between 34^th & 42^nd Streets), Murray Hill, Manhattan
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

Farther afield in the Comestiblogosphere:

Boston's 28^th Annual Chowderfest

Dozens of restaurants compete for the title of Boston's Best Chowder.  Sample and vote for your favorite.

City Hall Plaza, Boston, Massachusetts
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M. (rain or shine)

Admission: $7-$10

(617) 227-1528

http://www.bostonharborfest.com/

Dine Richly at Pó Brooklyn

In 1993, before his celebrity on the Food Network, Mario Batali opened Pó, a small trattoria in Manhattan's West Village.  Despite the founding chef's departure seven years later, the Cornelia Street eatery continued to thrive.  Following the success of the original, Pó Brooklyn was launched in 2007 and has been on my radar ever since.  A friend's recommendation, nay, insistence, compelled me to try the Smith Street edition during Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.

It was rainy and raw the day of my visit.  Mother Nature did little to brighten the dim interior, which my Comestaccomplice called soigné.  Nevertheless, the white table linen lightened the dark and cozy dining room while adding a touch of elegance to the casual setting.  The service was consistent with the ambiance—very accommodating without being intrusive.

The restaurant week menu choices were considerable, comprising four starters, five main courses, and three desserts.  Worthy representatives from the regular menu, including vegetarian options, were selected judiciously.  In general, gustatory ratings for promotional prix-fixe specials range from tolerable to very good.  The cucina of Pó Brooklyn raises the bar, however—my meal was excellent in nearly every respect.  Lacking any hint of mass production, each dish looked and tasted as though Chef Lee McGrath had prepared it especially for me.  This trattoria represents one of the best values I've encountered during Dine-In Brooklyn—not necessarily in quantity, but in quality.  It's hard to imagine a better $23 dinner anywhere.

White Bean Bruschetta

Our meal began with a complimentary (normally $2) White Bean Bruschetta.  The combination of canellini beans, olive oil, herbs and spices (including hot red pepper flakes, the sine qua non of Batali dishes) provided a pleasant deviation from common tomato-based toppings.  Receiving a corresponding recipe card with our snack added an ingratiating touch.  We were off to a propitious start.

Cured Tuna

My Cured Tuna antipasto yielded a bit of a surprise: the blend of tuna, canellini beans, sliced artichokes, and red onion atop a bed of frisée—all amid a chili-mint vinaigrette—gave every indication of being an insalata.  Regardless of its name, however, the successful union of ingredients resulted in an uncomplicated, yet excellent, starter.

Cider Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin

My secondo piatto, unlike my "antipasto," was much as I had envisioned it to be.  The Cider-Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin with braised cabbage and apple mostarda combined elements in a manner akin to reuniting old chums.  Though well-prepared and beautifully presented, this dish took no risks and demonstrated little desire to stray from anyone's comfort zone.  There's nothing intrinsically wrong with that, because it was tasty.  But in the company of more inspired offerings, the pork tenderloin was bit trite.

Grilled Guinea Hen

I realized I could have chosen a better main course upon sampling my Comestaccomplice's Grilled Guinea Hen.  It was a masterpiece that united simplicity with exquisite flavors.  Grilled and seasoned to a dark perfection, the bird was served atop pumpkin-and-scallion fregula (pearl-shaped pasta) and encircled by a ring of olive oil and saba (Italian grape syrup).  This was the pièce de résistance of the evening—a veritable symphony of flavors.  The succulent hen, with its masterly preparation, provided incentive enough for me to become a regular here.

Dark Chocolate Terrine

Finally, the dolce did not disappoint.  My Dark Chocolate Terrine (amaretti Sorrano, Vin Santo, and  espresso-caramel sauce) tasted every bit as good as it looked and left me with a sort of cacao "high."  It provided a sweet ending to a marvelous meal that didn't make me Po'.  This was a delightful meal, from start to finish.  But then, alas, it was back into the rain for me …

Pó Brooklyn

276 Smith Street (between Degraw & Sackett Sts), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 875-1980

http://www.porestaurant.com/

By train: F,G to Carroll Street (exit at President St)
By bus: B71, B75

Saint Germain: Germanely French in Bay Ridge

When last I dined at this Bay Ridge bistro, it was called Provence en Boîte.  Although owners Jean-Jacques and Leslie Bernat have since packed up and relocated their Provençal "box" to Boerum Hill, this space retained its Gallic flavor when Jerome Vidy reopened it as Saint Germain in August, 2004.  (The name, incidentally, comes from the Left Bank district in Paris around the quartier latin, or Latin quarter—an historic area known for its literary and artistic life.)  I've wanted to try the Third Avenue namesake of Saint-Germain-des-Prés for some time, but have always considered the prices un peu cher.  This spring's Dine-In Brooklyn, however, afforded me an affordable occasion to sample their cuisine.

Being seated at my favorite table brought back memories of this bistro's previous incarnation.  Little has changed in the dining room since my last visit:  guests must still pass the enticing dessert showcase upon entering; the bar still stands along the wall beyond the confections; and the banquette still lines the opposite wall.  Though the cooking has remained French, the service has not.  (I miss the Bernat's lovely niece, a delightful French serveuse.)

The special prix-fixe menu (please see below) comprised four starters, four main courses, and seemingly countless desserts.  It offered a well-chosen selection, mostly from the regular menu.  The unaccustomed generosity of the promotional portions came as quite a pleasant (and satisfying) surprise.

My Kir Royale apéritif set the tone for the first course.  Its rosy effervescence made a delightful partner to the smoked salmon platter.  The sparkling wine, combined with the sweet influences of the cassis, complemented the rich smokiness of the fish as well as the piquancy of the caper garnish.  Generously portioned and served with toast and lettuce, this was a marvelous starter.  Interestingly, the salmon platter does not appear on the regular menu, though it probably should.

Smoked salmon platter with toast and lettuce

I should have ordered wine for my second round.  Instead, I succumbed to the seductive appeal of the Brigitte Bardot cocktail.  The mixture of lemon vodka, triple sec, and sparkling French pink lemonade sounded better than it tasted.  What was I thinking?  (I wonder whether I'll fall victim to Wild Love or a Screaming Orgasm next time.)

Onward to the main course.  Since I had a hankering for meat, I chose the flank steak au poivre with pommes frites.  Again, the ample portion was more American than it was French.  As for the beef, it was very flavorful and cooked almost perfectly.  I say almost because it was not quite so rare as I'd requested—a minor point, overall.  The peppercorn sauce (made with green peppercorns, brandy, and cream) was consistent with my expectations: not great, but not bad, either.  It could have benefited from additional brandy.  The crisp pommes frites were authentic and very good, indeed.  Why can't all french fries be made from real potatoes?

Flank steak au poivre with pommes frites

Though sated after the main course, I still faced the prospect of selecting a dessert from the large display case.  With so many délices from which to choose, I picked the one that seemed to be exhorting me to consume it:  the apricot amandine.  My initial bite, however, revealed the real reason behind the tart's entreaties: fear of being the last to be chosen.  Apparently, this dessert had been deserted awhile.  Although the sliced apricots and almond paste were acceptable, the crust was too rigid and exhibited signs of age.  (I prefer my steaks aged, but not so my desserts.  Perhaps I ought to have ordered the Porcupine confection instead.)

Apricot amandine

Among my Dine-In Brooklyn meals so far, this one has represented the best value.  Considering that the regular dinner menu lists steak au poivre at $21.95 and desserts at $6 apiece, the $23 fixed price for my three courses was a bargain.  Overall, my dinner was quite satisfactory despite the disappointing apricot amandine.  While the bistro fare at Saint Germain is unlikely to win awards for creativity, it is fairly reliable and tasty.

Saint Germain

8303 Third Avenue (near 83^rd St), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn

(718) 745-8899

By train: R to 86^th Street
By bus: B37

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

The Scoop on Jacques Torres' Ice Cream

Although I had just finished a very satisfying dinner, replete with dessert, the sign outside Jacques Torres' latest venture was too inviting to ignore:  "Come In! Try Our Ice Cream," it beckoned.  Inspired by the success of their ice cream sandwiches over the past four years, Jacques Torres and his partner Ken Goto opened an ice cream parlor adjacent to their chocolate factory on Water Street in D.U.M.B.O.  The new shop began dishing up its frozen wares two Saturdays ago, on 30 May.  Could the renowned chocolatiers also churn out superior ice cream and sorbet?  In spite of my satiety, I was determined to investigate.

Co-owner Ken Goto

An initial taste of the mango sorbet failed to portend a second dessert that evening.  Its formidable fruit flavor was, alas, unable to subjugate the surge of insuperable sweetness.  A second sample altered my supplemental dessert plans instantly, however.  A diminutive spoonful of the exquisite raspberry sorbet virtually exploded in my mouth, leaving behind its fruit-laden shrapnel for my taste buds to savor and exhort for more.  A small cup of this tasty treat revealed its silky-smooth texture that could best be described as mousse-like.  Its flavor and consistency make this possibly the best raspberry sorbet I've tasted.

Though I limited my trials to sorbet this time, a couple of ice cream flavors aroused my curiosity:  namely, the Wicked (spiced with ancho and chipotle chilies) and the Vanilla Caramel Popcorn Crunch.  In all, Mr. Chocolate offers more than a dozen flavors of ice cream and sorbet at very reasonable prices.  Cones and cups: one scoop ($3); two scoops ($4.75); three scoops ($6).  Having mastered chocolates, truffles, bonbons, and now ice cream, Mr. Torres is becoming the Jacques of all treats.  What sweets will he conquer next?

Jacques Torres Ice Cream

62 Water Street (near Main St), D.U.M.B.O., Brooklyn

(718) 875-9772

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

By train: A,C to High Street; F to York Street
By bus: B25 to Main Street

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestevents for June 5-7, 2009

Comestible events this weekend for New York and beyond:

Greek Festival

Enjoy homemade Greek foods and pastries, shop in the agora and flea market, and dance the night away.

Saints Constantine & Helen Cathedral
64 Schermerhorn Street (between Court St & Boerum Pl), Downtown Brooklyn

Friday, 11:00 A.M. to 1:00 A.M.
Saturday, 1:00 P.M. to 1:00 A.M.
Sunday, 1:00 P.M. to 4:00 P.M.

Free.

(718) 624-0595

http://www.stconstantineandhelen.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall, M,R (BMT) to Court Street
By bus: B41, B61, B63, B75

Gateway to Nations, NYC Native American Heritage Celebration

The largest Native American festival in New York City features three days of Native American singing, dancing, drumming, food, crafts, jewelry, birds of prey, and more.

Floyd Bennett Field
Gateway National Recreation Area
50 Aviation Road, Brooklyn

Friday, 10:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M.
Saturday & Sunday, 11:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M.

Donation: $12 Adults; $6 Children/Seniors

(718) 686-0012
(718) 686-9297

http://www.redhawkcouncil.org/

By bus: Q35

86^th Street Bensonhurst Street Festival

Rides, games, food, and entertainment for the whole family.

86^th Street (19^th Av to Bay Pkwy), Bensonhurst, Brooklyn

Sunday, 7:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(718) 745-3511

By train: D,M to 20 Av
By bus: B1, B6, B82

Farther afield in the Comestiblogosphere:

Schweppes Great Chowder Cook-Off

About two dozen competitors from around the country serve up some 3,000 gallons of chowder as they vie for soup-remacy in Newport, Rhode Island's 29^th annual cook-off.  Taste and vote for best chowdah, as well as for best clam cake.  Over $10,000 in prizes are at stake.

Saturday, 11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.

Admission: $20 (children 12 and under free with an accompanying adult)

http://www.newportwaterfrontevents.com/
http://www.gonewport.com/

Second Annual Food & Wine Festival at National Harbor®

This food fest returns to National Harbor on the Potomac River in our nation's capital.  This event celebrates the use of "local, fresh and responsibly sourced ingredients from both land and sea."  Admission includes tastings of food, wine, beer, and spirits, as well as access to seminars, chef demonstrations, and workshops.  Attendees also receive a souvenir bag and wine glass.

Saturday, 12:00 Noon to 8:00 P.M.
Sunday, 12:00 Noon to 6:00 P.M.

Tickets: $65 (ages 21 and older); $30 (ages 12-20); $15 (ages 6-11)

(443) 716-2800

http://www.foodandwinenh.com/

Northampton Restaurant Week

This weeklong event concludes Sunday, 7 June.  Fifteen Northampton, Massachusetts restaurants strut their stuff with three-course menus at the fixed price of $20.09 (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

(413) 584-1900

http://www.northamptonrestaurantweek.com/
http://www.explorenorthampton.com/

National Doughnut Day—Free Doughnuts!

Every year, the first Friday in June designates National Doughnut Day.  This holiday originated in 1938 with the Chicago Salvation Army to help feed the hungry during the Great Depression, as well as to honor the Salvation Army's female-volunteer "Lassies" of World War I.  Often using helmets as cookware, the Lassies prepared thousands of doughnuts for American infantrymen—or doughboys—behind the front lines in France.  The first Salvation Army doughnut was served in 1917.

As a tribute to the Salvation Army's work, Krispy Kreme, Dunkin' Donuts, and a number of others are providing free doughnuts today.  Participating Krispy Kreme stores are giving away one doughnut per customer without any requisite purchase.  Participating Dunkin' Donuts restaurants, on the other hand, are offering one free doughnut with the purchase of a beverage.

To give back:

http://www.salvationarmyusa.org/

Visit the LaMars site for doughnut facts and a trivia quiz:

http://www.lamars.com/donutday/index.html

Hot Dog! Childhood Memories of Verona Park

Each of us has a private, nostalgic universe—that combination of sight, sound texture, smell, and taste that informs our memories.  I say "private" because it is impossible for another person to share our experience, even simultaneously, let alone after the fact, because our personalities and biases shape what is ultimately stored as memory.

Impossible as it may be to share an exact memory, there is a place that is special enough to conjure what my Comestaccomplice termed a "near-memory experience."

Verona Park in Verona, New Jersey was my boyhood haunt.  Nearly every day during the warm months, my grandmother and I made the long walk thither from my house in West Orange.  On the occasion of my recent visit to my childhood home, however, we drove.  As we followed the familiar old path to my little paradise, my friend marveled at how much ground my little legs were willing—nay, eager—to traverse to reach the park.  This alone conveyed the idea that Verona Park had to be very special.

When we arrived, my friend understood how heavenly this place must have been for a small child, with its variety of features to explore: a lovely lake with wetlands, inlets, an island and waterfalls; a playground; a bridge; a fort with a dungeon (or, in grownups' parlance, a bandstand).  My friend dug deeply into her five-year-old self to see this place through my young eyes.  The emotions from her own nostalgic venues were easily accessible as she immersed herself here.  For the rest of our sojourn at Verona Park, she was able to remain in that child's shoes, and experience it as I might have.  Contributing to the magic of this experience was that very little had changed in the decades since my childhood.

Of all the things that had not changed, or hadn't much changed, was the concession stand and the superior hot dog that it offers.  When I was a lad, the snack bar was situated inside the boathouse.  One could eat inside, or enjoy the food outside on the deck overlooking the lake.  Today the concession stand faces out to the deck, and the boathouse interior is closed.  It was a very busy day, yet there were plenty of spots available at the long picnic tables alongside the water's edge.

Consistent with the crowds was quite a wait for our franks (there's an ample menu, but no reason to order anything else).  Finally, they were handed to us across the counter … my Comestaccomplice could hardly contain her disappointment.  It took only one whiff of the hot dog's aroma and a glance at its crackly skin to realize that ordering just one had been a serious mistake.  Two or three would have been much wiser.

The hot dog's appearance—fine as it was—could only hint at just how good it actually tasted.  The grilled skin offers a gratifying snap as one bites into it.  The juice inside is just enough to keep the meat moist without it running down one's chin.  The flavors meld perfectly: good quality beef is blended with just the right amount of salt and savory spicing, and encased in that snappy skin with its slight charred flavor.

It is rare that as adults we can revisit a favorite childhood experience and even find it still enjoyable.  It's truly special when a visit down memory lane is not only pleasant, but measures up to our inner child's expectations.  Amazingly, the hot dog was exactly as I remembered it—how truly remarkable after all these years.  What a treat it was to share such a delectable old memory.

Verona Park

Bloomfield & Lakeside Avenues
Verona, N.J.   07044

http://www.essex-countynj.org/
http://www.veronapark.org/

By bus: 29 (Bloomfield Avenue)

The Lillet-tini, Lillet Martini, Ohranj Martini, etc.

A number of years ago, my friend Darrin Siegfried of Brooklyn's Red White & Bubbly introduced me to a delightful—albeit potent—cocktail.  As he put it, "the people from Lillet came up with it to help promote their apéritif, but they gave it the improbable name of the Lillet-tini.  Now, seriously: who is going to order that?"  Perhaps it wasn't the best choice of names, but it remains an undeniably delicious drink.  It was my late wife's favorite.

1 part Lillet Blonde (also known as Lillet Blanc)
1 part Stolichnaya Ohranj

Pour over ice in a rocks glass, garnish with an orange slice.

Or

Stir over ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass, garnish with an orange slice.

A Memorial Day toast to you, Jennifer.

Bánh Mì Comes to Amherst!

This Memorial Day weekend coincides with commencement activities at the University of Massachusetts, my alma mater.  Not much has changed since the time of my studies there last century.  Bars, pubs, and other banal food purveyors continue to dominate Amherst's restaurant scene.  How much beer, pizza, and ice cream does the average student require?  The recent opening of Miss Saigon, however, changed that somewhat by introducing the Vietnamese bánh mì sandwich to this college town.

Having been spoiled by the marvelous sandwiches of Sunset Park's Ba Xuyên (as well as those of several others in Brooklyn and Manhattan), I was quite disappointed with the mediocrity of Boston's putative best.  Thus, I was highly skeptical of what Amherst's Miss Saigon had to offer.  That skepticism was quickly dispelled with the first bite, however.

Miss Saigon's version of the bánh mì sandwich is quite tasty.  A crusty baguette, pâté schmear, meat, cilantro, julienned carrots and daikon, onions, jalapeños, and sliced cucumber are collated expertly to produce a successful flavor alliance.  Eliminating even one of the foregoing ingredients would result in a lesser sandwich.  Though the meat choices—classic pork, BBQ beef, and BBQ chicken—seem somewhat limited, they afford a satisfactory variety.  Better to have a few good selections than a lot of bad ones.  The $3.95 price represents a relative bargain when compared with Quiznos' $4 bomb it calls the Toasty Torpedo (a foot-long breadstick disguised as a sandwich).

While a bit pricey at $4.50, the milkshakes are delicious. Their lack of sweetness makes them particularly refreshing compared with the average shake.  The durian, with its clean taste, is rapidly becoming a favorite.  (In an earlier post, I had described the flavor as a combination of egg salad and papaya.)  Also available are the increasingly popular pearl boba drinks (bubble tea), priced at $3.

In addition to its bánh mì sandwiches, Miss Saigon offers an extensive selection of Vietnamese dishes.  Meals are available in the dining room or for takeout.

Miss Saigon

96 North Pleasant Street
Amherst, MA   01002

(413) 253-9988

http://www.amherstpho.com/

Foodbuzz Extravaganza at David Burke Townhouse

To celebrate its millionth post, Foodbuzz threw a bash fit for a millionaire on Tuesday, 12 May 2009, at davidburke townhouse on Manhattan's East Side.  Even this old fresser was not prepared for the unending barrage of delights with which I was besieged.  Never has my appetite been so helplessly overpowered.

If David Burke, one of this year's inductees into the James Beard Foundation's Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America and 2009 chef/innovator honoree by the Nation's Restaurant News MenuMasters was out to impress a bunch of foodists, he surely succeeded.  Chef Sylvain Delpique's variety of gustatory masterpieces—highlighted by mouthwatering hors d'œuvre—provided a culinary version of Plato's Retreat.  Needless to say, it was a marvelous evening of merrymaking with my fellow food bloggers.  Thanks a million, Foodbuzz!

How's this for openers?

Assorted dumplings

Scallop ceviche

Lobster flan in an eggshell

The Lobster Scramble was one of my favorites

Foie gras

Chicken Satay

The tuna tartare was my overall favorite

The sliders were cooked and seasoned to perfection

The Carving Station:

The salmon was moist, tender, and seasoned perfectly

Medium-rare: Just the way I like it!

Succulent roasted turkey

The sauce complemented the bird well

Prime rib of beef au jus—need I say more?

The Desserts:

Apple tartlets

Butterscotch panna cotta

Chocolate bouchons

Doughnut-like creme-filled beignets—Beighnuts?

The signature Cheesecake Lollipop Tree

Some of the people who made it possible:

David Burke

Sylvain Delpique, chef de cuisine

Ben Dehan, Foodbuzz CEO and founder

Foodbuzzers Ryan Stern, managing editor (left),
Devon O'Donell, director of partnerships (right)

davidburke townhouse

133 East 61^st Street (between Park & Lexington Avs), East Side, Manhattan

(212) 813-2121

http://www.davidburketownhouse.com/

By train: F,N,R,W to Lexington Av; 4,5,6 to 59 St
By bus: M1, M2, M3, M4 (uptown); M101, M102, M103 (downtown), Q32

A Margarita for Cinco de Mayo

One needn't wait till Cinco de Mayo to enjoy a Margarita—any warm day would be just fine.  Contrary to popular belief, the Fifth of May is not Mexico's Independence Day.  Rather, it is a somewhat minor, regional holiday—observed mainly in the state of Puebla—commemorating the Mexican army's improbable victory over superior French forces in the 1862 Battle of Puebla.  Curiously, the holiday is celebrated chiefly north of the border.  (Mexico's actual Independence Day falls on 16 September:  dieciséis de septiembre).

Enough about history—how does one make a great Margarita?  To begin, it's best to avoid mixes.  While they may taste insidiously good, they contain ingredients that sound as though they'd be best avoided.  For example, Jose Cuervo's Margarita Mix—admittedly one of the tastiest of the genre—contains "water, high fructose corn syrup and/or sugar, citric acid, natural flavors, sodium citrate, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (to preserve flavor), cellulose gum, polysorbate 60, gum Arabic, glycerol Abietate, and FD&C Yellow No. 5."

Instead of all those chemicals, why not simplify the drink to include just three components?  The best Margaritas are made with tequila, triple sec, and fresh lime juice.  Using high-quality ingredients may cost a little more, but the results are worth every penny.  Begin with a superior tequila—never settle for anything made with less than 100% blue agave (Mexican law mandates at least 51% agave; no such minimum exists for domestic "tequilas").  Cointreau, a liqueur from Angers (pronounced ahn·ZHAY), France—produced from curaçao oranges—ranks as the crème de la crème of triple sec.  Its orange peel flavor is an essential part of a great Margarita.  Not to be overlooked is the fruit juice: fresh squeezed limes are a must.  Again, a mix tastes all right; fresh lime juice, however, tastes much better.

While optional, the final ingredient is Kosher salt.  Use it to salt the rim of the glass, if you so desire.  Now that we have all the ingredients, is there anything else we need?  Yes!  Never underestimate the importance of proper glassware.  Genuine Margarita glasses add that little extra appeal to the drink.  Avoid water goblets or anything of that ilk.

Ready to mix?  Here, then, is my recipe for the perfect Margarita:

The ideal tequila-to-Cointreau ratio is 4:π (or roughly 4:3.1416).

In terms of measure for one drink:

2 ounces 100% blue agave tequila
1½ ounces (+ a drop or 2) Cointreau
Juice of 1 to 1½ limes

Your interpretation of perfection may vary, however.  It's easy to adjust the ingredients to your taste.

Shake well, serve, and enjoy!

Pomme de Terre, Not Ordinaire

A few years ago, a good French bistro like Pomme de Terre would have seemed unthinkable in this part of Ditmas Park, Brooklyn.  It still appears somewhat improbable today.  For instance, the nearby Newkirk Avenue BMT station has no fewer than two transit cops present at any given time.  And while undergoing its transformation from seedy grocery to upscale eatery, this space suffered numerous acts of vandalism.  Despite the annoying setbacks, owners Gary Jonas and Allison McDowell (founders of The Farm on Adderley nearby), and Jim Mamary (one of the founders of Patois) persevered and, on 31 March 2008, began serving, in their words, "well-loved food."  Since then, I'd always wanted to give this little bistro a try.  The recent Dine-In Brooklyn week afforded me a fine opportunity.

Dining weeks allow restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a reduced price.  Many restaurateurs use such occasions to put their best food forward.  Unfortunately, that was not the case at Pomme de Terre.  Their Dine-In Brooklyn menu seemed to target regular customers at the expense of newcomers.  Instead of featuring signature dishes, they offered items not found on their regular menu.  Perhaps with good reason.  After all, this little restaurant appears to have established a constant clientèle.  Nevertheless, I'd have preferred something a bit more representative—such as Steak Frites au Poivre—of their typical fare.

Although the bread is ordinaire, Pomme de Terre adds some nice French touches such as homemade butter to accompany it.  My meal began with a garlic soup containing a poached egg and topped with a croûton.  Perhaps I'm a bit too fond of garlic, but it seemed there just wasn't enough of it in the broth.  While this starter was a tasty and pleasant departure from the ordinary, its lack of ail intensity did not yield a favorable comparison with garlic-based concoctions I've enjoyed in Europe.

Garlic Soup

For the main course, chef David Pitula offered two choices: Warm Country Pâté and Chicken Paillard.  I opted for the latter, which was served in a goat cheese-basil vinaigrette, topped with grilled eggplant and squash, and accompanied by Yukon-Rosemary potatoes.  It was good, possibly even very good.  The overly acidic vinaigrette created a slight detraction, but was ameliorated somewhat by the sweetness of the grilled vegetables.  Overall, the flavors melded well.

Chicken Paillard

Had the cellar been commensurate with the wine list, I'd have found it quite acceptable.  I've come to expect a bistro's carte des vins to comprise few, but well-chosen—possibly esoteric—wines.  Unfortunately, it took four tries to find a wine that was actually in stock.  I finally settled on a glass of Vin de Savoie "Abymes," whose $9 price would have bought a bottle at a retail shop.

The dining room's décor is consistent with that of bistros one might find in Manhattan.  To wit, it has a sort of French feel.  Nevertheless, a Gallic bistro experience should transcend French-accented fare and décor.  Alas, the service was decidedly un-French.  My waiter made no efforts toward any sort of authentic pronunciation whatsoever.  (My request for a glass of "van de sahvwah" was met with a "vin da Savoy."  Oh well.)   While competent and not unfriendly by any means, the glib service was not all that ingratiating.  Perhaps I simply expect too much.

Lemongrass Panna Cotta

For dessert, I chose the Lemongrass Panna Cotta with mixed fruit.  While the tropical infusion provided a tangy twist, the consistency of the panna cotta lacked the buoyancy I've come to expect.  Again, at a purportedly French bistro, I'd have preferred the Gallic version of burnt cream: crème brûlée.

Whatever its minor shortcomings, Pomme de Terre is a welcome addition to a neighborhood that has been bereft of superior dining spots far too long.

Pomme de Terre

1301 Newkirk Avenue (NE corner Argyle Rd), Ditmas Park, Booklyn

(718) 284-0005

http://www.pdtny.com/

By train: B,Q to Newkirk Avenue
By bus: B8, B68

Happy Birthday, Comestiblog!

The plastic corks are popping and the André Cold Duck is flowing to celebrate Comestiblog's ignominious first anniversary.  It is hard to fathom why the weblog of comestibles, eating, drinking, and dubious taste was permitted to endure an entire year—or, for that matter, why it was allowed to begin in the first place!  There's really no excuse.

During the past 12 months, the curious ruminations and pointless musings posted on these pages have generated opprobrium far beyond my wildest imagination.  Yet, despite all the importunate recommendations to the contrary, I've decided to continue this affront to the blogosphere by prolonging my failed experiment to determine whether it is really possible for Comestiblog to degenerate into even greater ignobility.

Tanoreen is Moving

Tanoreen, the popular Bay Ridge, Brooklyn restaurant, is moving across Third Avenue to usher in its second decade.  Within the next two months, Rawia Bishara's "Middle Eastern cuisine with Mediterranean aromas" will be served in the dining room vacated a year ago by the venerable Mr. Tang (whose take-out branch continues to operate next door.)

The Patois of New York

For the time being, wistful diners who pass 255 Smith Street, Brooklyn will have to adapt to the patois of Little Italy to enjoy some of their Gallic favorites.  In January, Patois, a 1997 pioneer of Smith Street's restaurant row, closed its doors with the promise of reopening across the street in the near future.

Last Wednesday, meanwhile, the Mulberry Street incarnation made its debut.  Although the new digs are brighter and cleaner than the recently abandoned ones in Carroll Gardens, they somehow lack that je ne sais quoi.  Nevertheless, "the food is the same," I'm reassured.

Incidentally, Patois' prix fixe menu ($9.95 from 11:30 A.M. till 4:00 P.M.; $19.95 after that) represents an extraordinary value.

The future of the Manhattan location is uncertain, however.  Will the new Patois will continue to operate should indeed the newer one open at 254 Smith Street?  Stay tuned.  But in the meantime, bon appétit!

Patois

177 Mulberry Street (near Broome St), Little Italy, Manhattan

(212) 925-8157

By train:  6 to Spring Street; J,M,Z to Bowery
By bus:  M1, M103, B51

Eat: WFC Restaurant Showcase

On Thursday, 26 March, sample signature dishes from the World Financial Center's eclectic array of restaurants for $1 to $5.  Choices range "from mini-burgers and pork dumplings to silky gelato and crème brûlée."  Sounds good.

Toward a verdant goal, Brookfield Properties, the event's sponsor, will use biodegradable or compostable trays and flatware.

EAT: World Financial Center Restaurant Showcase

Winter Garden
220 Vesey Street, Lower Manhattan
Thursday, 26 March 2009, 11:00 A.M. to 2:30 P.M.

(212) 417-7000

http://www.artsworldfinancialcenter.com/cgi-bin/Go.cgi?q_id=842

By train: 2,3 (IRT) to Park Place; A,C,E (IND) to Chambers Street; PATH to World Trade Center

By bus: M20, M22, Downtown Connection

Dine-In Brooklyn 2009

"Foodies, the wait is over!" proclaims Marty Markowitz, Brooklyn Borough President.  This weekend, the protracted NYC Restaurant Week™ (begun mid-January) passes the torch to Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.  From 23 March through 2 April, over 200 Brooklyn eateries will offer three-course lunches or dinners for $23 (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  In addition, some 20 restaurants will serve two meals at the aforementioned fixed price.  That's one of the best dining bargains anywhere.

Not sure which restaurants to try?  Pick up a free 2008 Zagat Guide to Brooklyn Restaurants—while supplies last—at the Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center inside Borough Hall.  Last year, I used the occasion of Dine-In Brooklyn to sample Le Petit Marché and to revisit Rose Water.  This year?  I'll keep you posted …

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
179 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

F. Martinella Open House

Free food?  Sign me up!  This weekend starts a little early at F. Martinella on Court Street in Downtown Brooklyn.  Although this retro-themed deli opened in November, its coming-out party takes place today through Sunday (19-22 March) in the form of a Grand Open House.  Enjoy food samples, cooking demonstrations, entertainment, prizes, and much more.  Please visit their website for details.

Everything I tried was delicious, incidentally.

F. Martinella

119 Court Street (NE corner State St), Downtown Brooklyn
Thursday through Sunday,
10:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M.

(718) 858-6000

http://www.fmartinella.com/

By train: 2,3,4,5 to Borough Hall
By bus:  B75, B61, B63

That's the Way the Paraskavedekatriaphobia Crumbles

Fortune cookies, those little curved biscuits containing printed slips of pseudo-Sino wisdom, are typically served together with the check at Chinese restaurants around the world—except, however, in China.  If they're not Chinese, whence do these cookies hail?  Their true origins may be somewhat surprising.

Recent evidence traces the fortune cookie's ancestry back to Kyoto, Japan, where small, family-run bakeries have produced similarly shaped crackers—replete with fortunes—since the 19^th century.  The first American fortune cookies were undoubtedly served in California—exactly where and when is still a matter of debate, however.  The most common belief is that Makoto Hagiwara, a Japanese immigrant, served America's first fortune cookie about a hundred years ago in the Japanese Tea Garden he designed in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park.

Regardless of its history, the fortune cookie has always managed to elicit a smile or two.  On 30 March 2005, its recommendations even led to an unprecedented number of Powerball winners.  Since this represents the second straight month in which the 13^th falls on a Friday, I thought a little good fortune would be a possible antidote to paraskavedekatriaphobia.

Please click the links below for some fortune cookie amusement:

http://www.oddee.com/item_95868.aspx
http://www.fortunecookiemessage.com/

 

Further Reading:

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/16/dining/16fort.html?pagewanted=1&sq=fortune%20cookie&st=cse&scp=6

Where's the Beef? At Louis' Lunch in New Haven!

It could take an out-of-towner two passes down New Haven's Crown Street to find the improbably situated Louis' Lunch: smack in the middle of a parking lot, rather than among the restaurant cohort lining the opposite side of the street.  The ancient, gnome-scaled brick edifice's location is, however, a testament to the burger joint's devoted following.  City redevelopment plans had called for razing this  diminutive landmark (a former tannery) to make way for a high-rise building.  But in 1975, following years of wrangling between the owner and the city, public outcry saved the venerable luncheonette at the last moment.  Dodging the wrecking ball by a matter of hours, the home of the hamburger was deracinated from its foundation at 202 George Street and moved to its present location—its fourth—about a block away.

It would be difficult to find a story more steeped in tradition than that of the Lassen family and the birth of the hamburger as we know it.  The legend begins in 1895 with a lunch wagon on Meadow Street—near Union Station—from which Louis Lassen served steak sandwiches to factory workers.  Not wanting to waste the trimmings, he ground and broiled the leftover meat.  Initially, he served it as a patty, on a platter, together with a slice of onion and home fries.  One day, however, a customer rushed in and requested a fast meal to go.  Lassen responded by sandwiching one of his broiled patties between two slices of white bread, and with that, according to local lore, served the first hamburger.  While this may be an interesting origins story, there must be another reason that Louis' Lunch, now in its fourth generation of family operation, is still in business after more than a century.

Indeed.  Why didn't the denizens of the Elm City allow this family-run establishment to go the way of so many others during urban renewal?  The answer is found between those two thin slices of white toast: a generous, top-quality ground beef patty, cooked in much the same way it was over a hundred years ago.  Add onion and tomato ("the works"), cheese spread, or any combination thereof, if you must.  But ultimately, it's all about the beef.  Louis' Lunch takes this premise to an extreme by offering no other accompaniments or condiments (with the exception of salt and pepper packets, upon request).  Please don't even think of asking for ketchup.  The Lassens believe that such additions are unnecessary, and serve only to cover up mistakes.  The enduring ban on condiments also honors the legacy of the founder.  The point is, if they are going through the trouble of cutting and grinding their own fresh meat daily, you should taste the beef!  (To those unfamiliar with Louis' credo, various signage offers a guide to their dogmatic service protocol.)

Returning to how deeply in tradition the food is steeped, Jeff Lassen rightly points out that his hamburgers owe part of their flavor to the original 1898 apparatus in which they're cooked.  The gas-powered stoves from Bridge, Beach & Company afford a healthful side benefit, so to speak, by broiling the patties vertically to reduce excess grease.  Over the years, the grills initiated by Jeff's great grandfather have been seasoned with the essence of burgers prepared for Charles Lindbergh, Artie Shaw, Bing Crosby, Rudy Vallee, and countless others.  That's a quality for which there is no shortcut; it can only be earned with time.

The toaster tells a similar tale, nearly as old: it has been preparing the "bun"—two slices of Pepperidge Farm white bread—since 1929.  As we waited for our burgers, we watched these antiques in action, marveling at how they continue to operate flawlessly after all these years—a testament to superior workmanship and caring ownership.

The verdict: the hamburger is good, honest food.  Its flavor is fresh, clean, and lean.  With onion and tomato options, Louis was astute in serving his mission—the additions complement the beef without masking anything.  We found that a touch of salt was necessary to bring out all the succulence this fine burger has to offer.  In an age of industrial fast food, this is (reasonably) fast food that tastes like real food.  Simple, satisfying.

For the lunch crowd, the menu consists of exactly two choices: a hamburger or cheeseburger for $5.  On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings, however, the menu often expands to include a hot dog and a steak sandwich.

If the bread is not enough, you can augment your carbs with potato salad, a wide selection of good-quality chips, and one or two homemade pie offerings.  In addition, Louis' Lunch offers an impressive assortment of soft drinks, many of which are local and off-beat.  But you will never, ever, enjoy a Coke here, because, as Jeff says, "we can carry a grudge."  Jeff's grandfather Ervin Lassen (Louis' son) severed relations with Coca Cola during the Great Depression.  Purportedly, an unscrupulous distributor decided that Louis' share of the soft drink could fetch a higher price on the black market.  The Pepsi salesman, on the other hand, was eager to deal legitimately—his product was welcomed in and remains on the menu some 70 years later.

Nostalgia is one thing, but Louis' Lunch is sensitive to the current climate as well.  Mindful of the economy, Jeff has held his prices down since 2006.  Within the past year, he's even enlarged the burger by nearly an ounce as a way of giving his customers a little extra during tough times.  (Though he doesn't specifically measure the patties, Jeff approximates the weight of each to be about six ounces.)

Fourth generation: Jeff Lassen, C.S.K. ("Crown Street King")

Decent people, decent food. That's a recipe worth saving.

Louis' Lunch

261-263 Crown Street (between College & High Sts)
New Haven, CT   06511-6611

(203) 562-5507

Closed Sundays and Mondays.

http://www.louislunch.com/

Further information:

http://whatscookingamerica.net/

Drinks at Pat O'Brien's

After dinner, we return to the French Quarter and make our way up Bourbon Street.  When the sun sets, the area bustles with the effusive din of partyers determined to make merry.  We turn right onto Saint Peter and enter the carriageway of a 1791 building that once housed the first Spanish theatre in the United States.  This is Pat O'Brien's, home of the world-famous Hurricane—a fruity rum concoction that originated here in the early 1940s.  Albeit there's a wait for a table on the open-air Patio, it's well worth it.

Though I'm not particularly fond of sweet cocktails, I do make an exception with Pat O's Hurricane.  We delight in the aura of the Patio Bar's flaming fire fountain as we sip a New Orleans original under the night sky.

"Now I know why the call it a Hurricane:  the room was spinning when I got back to my hotel!" declared Brian, a colleague of mine from Canada, who thus described his baptism of fire here.  In truth, the cocktail isn't all that potent, but it is insidious—it's probably advisable to stop at three.  The real derivation of its name, incidentally, comes from the shape of the glass—similar to that of a hurricane lamp—in which the drink is served.  (Customers receive their logo glass as a souvenir as they leave.)

The upshot: follow the advice of Pat O'Brien's motto and Have Fun!

Pat O'Brien's

718 Saint Peter Street (between Bourbon & Royal Sts)
New Orleans, LA   70116-3119

(504) 525-4823

http://www.patobriens.com/

After stumbling out of Pat O's, consider taking in some of the other sights in the French Quarter …

Dinner at Mulate's

With so much to explore in New Orleans, there are countless ways in which to work up an appetite.  One particularly pleasant divertissement is a ride on the landmarked St. Charles streetcar line to the Garden District.  Magnificent mansions of various architectural styles afford a delightful setting for an afternoon constitutional.  When evening arrives, we return to the Central Business District and prepare ourselves for an authentic Cajun dinner.

We pass Emeril's and follow Julia Street four blocks to our destination at the corner of Convention Center Boulevard.  A group of colleagues introduced me to Mulate's 14 years ago while we were in the Big Easy to attend a convention—I've been a fan of "the original Cajun restaurant" ever since.  From the street, we can hear the cavernous hall resonating les bon temps.  The party is already in full swing as we enter the circa 1885 Italianate warehouse.  A Cajun band is playing, people are dancing, and everyone appears to be having a good time.

In terms of food, Mulate's sets the standard for Cajun cooking.  From the gumbo to the alligator to the catfish to the crawfish to the jambalaya, this is the real deal.  We ordered the Catfish Mulate's—a seasoned fillet, lightly floured, grilled, and topped with crawfish étouffée.  Jambalaya, sautéed vegetables, and a twice-baked potato filled out the remainder of the plate.  Beer was the perfect libation to accompany the food, music, and checkered napery.  With everything having been prepared to perfection, this remains one of the tastiest Cajun meals I can recall.

Celebrating its nineteenth year in New Orleans, Mulate's continues its tradition of blending authentic Cajun food, music, and culture with reasonable prices.  Though I prefer the shack-like ambiance of the original Mulate's in Breaux Bridge, the large space on Julia Street has its own charms—to say nothing of its easier accessibility to conventioneers.

 

Mulate's Restaurant

201 Julia Street (NW corner Convention Center Blvd)
New Orleans, LA   70130-1622

(800) 854-9149
(504) 522-1492

http://www.mulates.com/

Riverwalk and Convention Center across the street

Lunch at Central Grocery

There's nothing like a stroll through the French Quarter to help burn a few breakfast calories.  As we wend our way through the charming streets, we pause at various landmarks, museums, and shops.  After a visit to the French Market, it's time for lunch.

Would having a sandwich be too banal in this epicurean city?  Yes, if it were an ordinary ham-and-cheese or something of that sort.  But I have an extraordinary kind in mind—a Muffuletta (pronounced "moo·fuh·LET·ah," often abbreviated, simply, to "muff").  It's made with a fresh, round loaf of Italian bread, onto which generous quantities of imported salami, ham, cheese, mortadella, and special olive salad are layered, and served at room temperature.  (Don't even think of asking to have it warmed!)  This is one big, tasty sandwich that easily feeds two people.  Half a sandwich at midday is ample—especially if one is still planning to have dinner.

As we cross Decatur Street and enter Central Grocery, we take a step backward through time.  The old-fashioned Italian-American emporium that proclaims itself to be the "home of the original Muffuletta" gives the impression of having forgone any sort of redecoration since its founding in 1906.  Apparently, there's no need to change—this place draws visitors from all corners of the globe.  No trip to New Orleans is complete without a stop here.  The Muffuletta's putative place of origin is also where the sandwich reaches its acme of perfection.  Purportedly, it was created here by Salvatore Lupo the same year he founded the grocery.  Though time seems to have stood still at Central Grocery, its most famous product remains a timeless classic.

Central Grocery Co.

923 Decatur Street (between N. Peters & St. Philip Sts)
New Orleans, LA   70116-3307

(504) 523-1620

Breakfast at Brennan's

Breakfast at Brennan's is something everyone should try at least once.  Situated in the French Quarter, this lovely dining spot has been a Crescent City phenomenon since 1946.  Owen Edward Brennan's elegant culinary namesake evokes images of New Orleans French aristocrats sipping wine and enjoying leisurely breakfasts on the patio nestled among exotic plants and redolent magnolia blossoms, cooled by Palmetto fans.

Eggs Sardou (foreground) and Eggs Hussarde

We began our aristocratic breakfast with an "eye opener" called Fleur de Lis—Champagne with Grand Marnier and Lillet Blanc.  (One might think of it as orange juice with a kick.)  With appetites whetted, we were ready for our main course.  My Comestaccomplice ordered the Eggs Sardou (poached eggs on artichoke bottoms in a bed of creamed spinach and covered with Hollandaise sauce) while I chose the signature Eggs Hussarde (poached eggs atop Holland rusks, Canadian Bacon, and Marchand de Vin sauce, topped with Hollandaise sauce).  Ahhh … If only all eggs were this good!

To finish on a sweet note, we ordered two Brennan's originals: the Crêpes Fitzgerald (crêpes filled with cream cheese and sour cream, topped with strawberries flambéed with marischino liqueur) and the signature Bananas Foster (bananas sautéed in butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, and banana liqueur, flambéed in rum, and served over vanilla ice cream).

What a delicious way to start the day!

Brennan's

417 Royal Street (between Conti & St. Louis Sts)
New Orleans, LA   70130-2103

(504) 525-9711

http://www.brennansneworleans.com/

Laissez les Bon Temps Rouler!

The carnival festival that portends the coming of lent is winding down.  With celebrations culminating today, Mardi Gras (literally, "Fat Tuesday," the eve of Ash Wednesday), I thought I'd share a few of my favorite New Orleans memories with you.

The following posts could represent a food-filled day in the Big Easy:  Breakfast at Brennan's, Lunch at Central Grocery, Dinner at Mulate's, and Drinks at Pat O'Brien's.  Where ya at?  Hungry?  Let's begin with breakfast in the French Quarter.

Jackson Square (Place d'Armes) in the French Quarter

Comestiblab:  The word carnival comes from the Italian carnevale, an alteration of the older carnelevare (from carne, flesh, meat + levare, to remove (from Latin levare, to raise)).  Thus, the literal translation of carnival is, "removal of meat."

A Taste of Valentine's Day 2009

Champagne and chocolate are not necessarily ideal partners, but they're not bad together—especially if both are free.  Join Le Dû's Wines from 3:00 P.M. till 6:00 P.M. for a Valentine's Day tasting of Georges Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy, Henriot Brut Souverain, and Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 2002, as well as a sampling of the exquisite chocolates of Jacques Torres—all gratis.  Not a bad way to set the mood …

Le Dû's Wines

600 Washington Street (between Morton & Leroy Sts), West Village, Manhattan
3:00 P.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(212) 924-6999

http://www.leduwines.com/

By train: 1 to Houston Street
By bus: M8, M20, M21

Valentine's Day Sweets for Your Sweetie

Since its American debut in New York, Fauchon had topped our list of favorite chocolatiers.  To enter the elegant Park Avenue salon de thé was to step into a little corner of Paris; to sample their ethereal wares was to taste a little piece of heaven.  Sadly, our special seller of sublime sweets shuttered its Manhattan outpost last year.  While Fauchon's closing may have left a cavity in the Big Apple, other fine purveyors around town have reduced the void with their superb chocolate fillings.

The Paris-based La Maison du Chocolat was our chocolatier of choice until the arrival of Fauchon.  The House of Chocolate's exquisitely crafted cacao creations—including the Dark Ganache with Two Vanillas (made with Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar and aromatic beans from Tahiti) and the masterly Dark Ganache Porcelana (a Maison du Chocolat exclusive, made with the Venezuelan Porcelana bean)—are available in various Stitches of Love Valentine's Day collections.  Prices for the assortments range from $15 (for a box of four) to $85 (for a box of 39).

While I enjoy the large selection at La Maison du Chocolat's premier boutique on the Upper East Side, I prefer the quiet and convenience of the new location on Wall Street.

Should you fancy French chocolates with a Brooklyn twist, you could look to our own (somewhat) local hero, Jacques Torres.  Originally from Bandol, France (a small, seaside resort town in the south of Provence), the self-proclaimed Mr. Chocolate established his first factory along with a diminutive retail shop in D.U.M.B.O. (the lowland between the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges—a former paper-box manufacturing area once known as Gairville).  His December, 2000 opening came at a time when that deserted part of Brooklyn had little else to recommend it.  My late wife and I were among Jacques Torres' first customers; I remain a devotee.

Jacques Torres' spaces are more approachable and his prices are more accessible than those of the upscale Parisian-styled boutiques.  And Mr. Chocolate seems to convey a greater sense of fun.  Valentine's Day treats like The Spanker ($12; "it's sure to leave a mark!"), Body Paint, Love Tonic, and Body Butter ($9 apiece; "don't make us give you instructions…") demonstrate a sort of playfulness not readily apparent at La Maison du Chocolat or the erstwhile Fauchon.  Of course, Jacques also offers various artisanal collections ranging from the seven-piece Heart Truffle Box ($10.50) to the 50-piece Champagne Kisses ($57.50) as well as the large, 34-piece heart-shaped box of bonbons ($49).  I opted to create my own assortment of 25 quasi-Valentine's Day chocolates ($33, please see below).  Chocolate was never so much fun!

My personal selection. (The hexagonal Liquid Caramel was my late wife's favorite.)

In addition to expanding his original D.U.M.B.O. space, Jacques Torres has opened shops on Hudson Street and on Amsterdam Avenue in Manhattan.  The newest store (and the first outside New York) is scheduled to open next month in Traverse City, Michigan.

 

Fauchon

http://www.fauchon.com/

 

La Maison du Chocolat (Manhattan)

1018 Madison Avenue (between 78^th & 79^th Sts), Upper East Side
(212) 744-7117

30 Rockefeller Center, Midtown
(212) 265-9404

63 Wall Street (near Hanover St), Financial District
(212) 952-1123

http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/

Jacques Torres

66 Water Street, D.U.M.B.O., Brooklyn
(718) 875-9772

350 Hudson Street (SE corner King St), South Village, Manhattan
(212) 414-2462

285 Amsterdam Avenue (between 73^rd & 74^th Sts), Upper West Side, Manhattan
(212) 787-3256

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

Gut-Wrenching Peanut Butter

Latest reports indicate that the peanut butter-borne salmonella outbreak is responsible for 575 illnesses and possibly eight deaths in 43 states.  As a result, over 1,550 products have been recalled nationwide. 

For a list of recalled items, please visit the FDA's website at the address below:

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/peanutbutterrecall/index.cfm

Landry's, Gateway to Tampa

My visits to Tampa, Florida customarily begin and end at Landry's at Rocky Point.  The restaurant's proximity to Tampa International Airport and its lovely waterfront setting make it a convenient and relaxing dining spot—indoors or alfresco—before or after a flight.

As its name implies, Landry's Seafood House specializes in sea fare—with a bayou flair.  While dishes featuring catfish, grouper, red snapper, redfish, mahi-mahi, and gulf shrimp showcase the Gulf of Mexico's bounty, toppings such as Pontchartrain (creamy white wine sauce with mushrooms and jumbo lump crabmeat), crawfish étouffée (a tan roux with sautéed crawfish tails), and Acadiana (crawfish tails and corn pico de gallo in an Andouille cream sauce) add a savory Louisiana touch.  Aside from its seafood offerings, the menu throws a bone to landlubbers in the form of a few beef and fowl dishes.  Salads, pastas, burgers, and sandwiches are also available.

Though the wine list is unexceptional, it does offer a reasonable number of selections by the glass.  On my last visit, however, I forwent my usual libation in favor of Landry's signature drink: the 21-ounce Mai Tai ($7.99), a cocktail made with light and dark rums, Crème de Noyaux (an almond-flavored liqueur made from fruit pits), pineapple juice, and sweet-and-sour mix.  Its tropical flavors were quite refreshing.

Fried Oysters with steak fries and onion strings

Starters I've sampled have tended to be somewhat oily and insipid.  The Fried Calamari ($8.99 lunch; $9.99 dinner) is a typical example: it's greasy, limp, and considerably less tasty than similar preparations at other restaurants.  I've found the soups to be a better choice.  Landry's New England Clam Chowder ($4.99 lunch; $5.99/$7.99 dinner), for instance, is quite delectable (though its subtle smoky flavor diminishes its authenticity slightly).

All main courses include Landry's Famous Salad Bowl—a satisfying, unlimited serving of fresh greens, tossed tableside.  (The creamy, golden Italian dressing, incidentally, is a superior alternative to the standard vinaigrette.)  A tasty loaf of hot, crunchy garlic bread accompanies the salad.  (Please note that within the past year, garlic bread is served upon request only.  Be sure to issue your request!)

For my main course, I usually order a broiled, fresh fish.  I particularly enjoy the firm, moist Gulf Snapper ($18.99 lunch; $21.99 dinner) blackened ($1 additionally).  The Cajun-style seasoning complements the snapper's mild, nutty flavor perfectly—thus rendering the small cup of dipping sauce superfluous.  The rich and flavorful vegetable risotto is a well-chosen accompaniment.  I can also recommend the Catfish Fillets ($9.99 lunch; $16.99 dinner), another of my favorites.

Blackened Gulf Snapper with vegetable risotto

While I've never tried Landry's Bananas Foster (their signature dessert), I recommend the Key Lime Pie ($5.99)—a pleasing combination of sweetness and lime.  (My choice is based on a bifurcated desire to preserve my fond memories of Brennan's musaceous original and to enjoy a native citrus pie whose authentic confection is scarce outside Florida.)

Although Landry's has served as my welcoming gateway to the Tampa Bay area for some time, its overall atmosphere has suffered a decline since the departure of general manager Howard Cohen (the last to have his name inscribed on the front door) a couple of years ago.  Most notably, the reception and service now seem to lack their erstwhile vitality and spirit.  The food quality remains rather good, but the mood has waned somewhat.  I sincerely hope Landry's management will turn the corner soon.

Landry's Seafood House

7616 West Courtney Campbell Causeway (SR 60)
Tampa, FL   33607-1432

(813) 289-7773

http://www.landrysseafoodhouse.com/
 

Every sixth meal is free (up to $7.99 for lunch or $9.99 for dinner) with Landry's Free Meal Ticket.

Not a Super Guide to Tampa

The free, passport-sized Zagat guide—From Tailgating to Touchdowns—that was thrust into the hands of all who arrived at Tampa International Airport over the past several days contains an underwhelming five pages of reviews.  It's hard to understand how—or why, for that matter—the list was compiled.  Of the 20 restaurants named, more than half belong to a chain and several are situated more than an hour's drive from Tampa.  Trendy nightlife areas, such as Ybor City and Channelside, were left unrepresented.  (Incredibly, Columbia, Florida's oldest restaurant, received nary a mention.)  Local flavor seems to have been kept to a minimum.  One would think Zagat could have done a little better than this.

Cocoa-Loco at City Bakery

Ever try an Arabian Nights or Earl Grey Tea hot chocolate?  Baker-and-owner Maury Rubin tempts us with these and other daily flavors throughout February at his 17^th Annual City Bakery Hot Chocolate Festival.  Other creative con-cocoa-tions include the ever-popular Banana Peel, the Sunken Treasure, the Passion Fruit Cream, the Hot Chocolate A-Go Go, and, on Valentine's Day, the Love Potion.  Since City Bakery hasn't a license to serve alcohol, it'll be interesting to taste the Beer and Bourbon cocoas.  The festival culminates with a surprise finale on the 28^th.

The City Bakery

3 West 18^th Street (near Fifth Av), Flatiron District, Manhattan

(212) 366-1414

http://www.hotchocolatefestival.com/

By train: 4,5,6 (IRT),N,Q,R,W (BMT),F,V (IND),PATH to 14^th Street

By bus: M1, M2, M3, M5, M6, M7

A Bitch of a Super Bowl Party Wine

Selecting the right wine for your Super Bowl party can be (and perhaps should be) a Bitch.  This South Aussie red from R Wines is made from 100% Grenache—the dominant variety of Southern Rhône wines such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas.  Winemakers Chris Ringland and Lisa Wetherell use grapes from the Barossa Valley to produce a tasty, affordable (about $10) wine that offers hints of plum, berries, and spice.  It's unoaked and, at 15.0% ABV, rather hefty.  And it goes great with pizza!

It's probably wiser, however, to serve this wine at a Super Bowl party than to present it to your wife or girlfriend on Valentine's Day.

http://www.gratefulpalateimports.com/

Morton's Uncorked

Morton's, the new steakhouse in Brooklyn, will offer a complimentary tasting of wines and spirits today and tomorrow.  Join fellow imbibers for free booze at the bar from 5:30 P.M. till 8:00 P.M. on 29 & 30 January and again on 5 & 6 February 2009.

Morton's The Steakhouse

339 Adams Street (at the Booklyn Marriott), Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 596-2700

http://www.mortons.com/

By train: A,C,F to Jay St-Borough Hall; 2,3,4,5 to Borough Hall

Burger-in-Chief

Misplaced your invitation to the Inaugural Ball?  You could still have a presidential meal at the Wall Street Burger Shoppe.  They're offering a special today on their pizza-like Obama Burger—a four-ounce hamburger with marinara sauce, fresh mozzarella, and fresh basil.

Wall Street Burger Shoppe

30 Water Street (between Broad St & Coenties Slip), Financial District, Manhattan

(212) 425-1000

http://burgershoppenyc.com/

By train: R,W to Whitehall Street
By bus: M9, M15, Downtown Connection

Restaurant Weeks in Winter 2009

NYC Restaurant Week™ Winter 2009 starts tomorrow.  (That's right, Sundays are included this time.)  It spans two weeks—18-23 & 25-30 January—and comprises more than 250 New York City restaurants.  Three courses cost $24.07 for lunch and $35 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://nycgo.com/restaurantweek to view the list of participating restaurants and their menus, and to make reservations.

Farther down the coast, Baltimore will host its Winter Restaurant Week from 23 January to 1 February.  Over 100 restaurants will offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $20.09 for lunch and $30.09 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.baltimorerestaurantweek.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants and to make reservations.

Agave Nectar: Sweet and Low-Glycemic

No need to give up sweets for the New Year.  Agave nectar (also called agave syrup) is a low-glycemic alternative to popular sweeteners that elevate blood sugar levels rapidly.  The simple sugars inherent in table sugar (sucrose), brown sugar, maple syrup, molasses, honey, and the cheap, ubiquitous high-fructose corn syrup metabolize quickly after ingestion.  This can trigger insulin reactions and increase the risk of type 2 diabetes, coronary heart disease, and obesity.  The natural, plant-based agave (pronounced ah·GAH·vay) nectar, however, sweetens without producing the same deleterious effects on insulin and blood sugar levels.  Simply stated, agave nectar's sweetness doesn't cause a "sugar rush."

Because of its low Glycemic Index, agave nectar is suitable for some diabetics.  The GI is a relative scale that ranks the effects of foods on blood glucose levels.  That is, it measures the body's glycemic response (conversion to glucose) to carbohydrates over a two- to three-hour period after ingestion.  An index of 100 represents pure glucose; 55 and below is considered low-glycemic.  While the Glycemic Index of sugar (2 tsp) is 68, that of agave nectar—depending upon the producer—ranges from the teens to the 40s.

Agave nectar is made from sap extracted from the heart (piña) of the blue agave, a succulent plant, related to the lily, and native to Mexico—the same source from which the distillates tequila and mezcal (mescal) are produced.  Blue agave's nutritional credits include vitamins B, C, D, and E, as well as calcium, potassium, magnesium, and iron.  It has been used as a blood purifier, as a digestive aid, and as an anti-inflammatory.

Approximately 25 to 30 percent sweeter than table sugar, agave nectar is available in light or dark (raw, unfiltered) forms, and tastes much like honey.  (Mexicans refer to it as "honey water.")  The nectar dissolves readily, making it a good sweetener for beverages and baking.  (Incidentally, a free taste can be had at most Trader Joe's sample stations.)  Furthermore, it has a long, stable shelf life (approximately three years) and does not crystallize.

With many brands from which to choose, which one is right for you?  Perhaps the links below (arranged in no particular order) can help you decide:

http://www.blueagavenectar.com/
http://www.madhavahoney.com/
http://www.wholesomesweeteners.com/
http://www.agavenectar.com/
http://www.wildernessfamilynaturals.com/
http://www.sweetcactusfarms.com/

How sweet it is!

Further reading:

http://www.allaboutagave.com/
http://www.sweetsavvy.com/
http://www.acu-cell.com/gi.html
http://www.glycemicindextesting.com/
http://www.glycemicindex.com/
http://www.diabeteshealth.com/
http://www.drweil.com/

Champagne Taste on a Tap Water Budget

Indulge your champagne taste at one or more of these free bubbly tastings:

Friday, 26 December:

Nicolas Feuillatte tasting at Long's

Nicolas Feuillatte represents, in my opinion, one of France's best Champagne values.  Sample the Brut (40% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay; 40% Pinot Meunier), the Brut Rosé (60% Pinot Noir; 10% Chardonnay; 30% Pinot Meunier.  One of my favorites!), and the Cuvée Palme d'Or Brut 1998 (50% Chardonnay; 50% Pinot Noir).

Long's Wines & Liquors

7917 5^th Avenue (between 79^th & 80^th Sts), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn
5:00 P.M. to 8:00 P.M.  Free.

(718) 748-6505

http://www.longswines.com/

By train: R to 77^th Street
By bus: B63

Kluge Estate tasting at Zachys

Try a couple of sparkling wines from Virginia!  The tasting will feature two, 2004-vintage selections from Kluge Estate: the SP Sparkling Rosé (89% Chardonnay; 11% Pinot Noir) and the SP Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay).  Situated near Charlottesville, on the edge of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Patricia Kluge's vineyards are just a short distance from America's viticultural roots at Thomas Jefferson's Monticello.  Incidentally, Patricia is the former wife of Metromedia's (remember when Channel 5 was WNEW-TV?) founder, John Kluge.

Zachys™ Wine and Liquor

16 East Parkway
Scarsdale, N.Y. 10583-4109
4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

(800) 723-0241

http://www.zachys.com/

By train: Metro-North Harlem Line to Scarsdale

Saturday, 27 December:

Uncorking #1

This is the sort of tasting I've come to expect from Zachys.  It features the Champagnes of Veuve Cliquot, Charles Ellner, Godmé, Moët & Chandon, and Ruinart.

Zachys™ Wine and Liquor
12 Noon to 4:00 P.M.  Free.

Sunday, 28 December:


Uncorking #2

Another fine tasting in Scarsdale.  This one showcases champagnes from the houses of Bollinger and Taittinger.

Zachys™ Wine and Liquor
1:00 P.M. to 4:00 P.M.  Free.

Tuesday, 30 December:


Grower Sparklers

Five sparkling alternatives to Champagne will be poured.

The Greene Grape

765 Fulton Street (between S Portland Av & S Oxford St), Fort Greene, Brooklyn
5:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

(718) 797-9463

By train: C to Lafayette Av; G to Fulton St
By bus: B25, B26, B52

http://brooklyn.greenegrape.com/

Ayala Tasting

The Champagnes of Ayala were reintroduced into the United States market after an extended absence.  This tasting will feature: Ayala Brut Majeur NV (35% Chardonnay; 45% Pinot Noir; 20% Pinot Meunier), Rosé Majeur NV (51% Chardonnay; 30% Pinot Noir; 10% Pinot Meunier; 9% still red wine from Mareuilsur-Aÿ (Pinot Noir from old vines)), Blanc de Blancs 2000 (100% Grand Cru Chardonnay)

Columbus Circle Wines & Spirits

1802 Broadway (between 58^th & 59^th Sts), Midtown Manhattan
5:00 P.M. to 8:00 P.M.  Free.

(212) 247-0764

http://www.columbuscirclewine.com/

By train: 1 (IRT), A,B,C,D (IND) to 59 St-Columbus Circle
By bus: M5, M7, M10, M20, M104

Wednesday, 31 December:


Bis!  Bis!

A couple of the foregoing tastings will be repeated on New Year's Eve.  Columbus Circle Wines & Spirits presents an encore of its Ayala tasting from 4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.; Long's Wine & Liquors in Brooklyn reprises its Nicolas Feuillatte tasting from 5:00 P.M. till 8:00 P.M.  Both tastings are free.

Cheers!

"Seasoned" Greetings

Helping the Hungry for the Holidays

As our busy schedules find us scrambling to buy last-minute gifts for friends and loved ones, we often overlook those who could also use a little holiday kindness.

Since its founding in 1982, City Harvest has dedicated itself to feeding New York City's hungry men, women, and children.  Through contributions, food-rescue, distribution, and education, this non-profit organization has helped reduce hunger in our city.

In addition to monetary contributions, food donations, and volunteer programs, there are numerous other ways to help City Harvest accomplish its mission.  Among them: buying Holiday Cards or a City Harvest apron (or both!), making online purchases (at no additional cost) through Shop for Charity, purchasing "City Harvest blends" from serendipiTea, and ordering a $40 prix fixe lunch ($5 of which is donated to City Harvest) at Le Bernadin.

 

City Harvest, Inc.

575 Eighth Avenue, 4^th Floor
New York, N.Y.  10018-3069

(917) 351-8700
(917) 351-8720

http://www.cityharvest.org/

A Gift of Trivia for the Board

Looking for a comestible-related gift that's under $20?  Foodie Fight is a trivia game that challenges food lovers to flaunt their knowledge of food history, culinary science, celebrity chefs, and exotic cuisine.  With more than a thousand questions, there are plenty of servings for everyone.  The set includes a deck of trivia cards, six game boards, and a colored die.

Foodie Fight by Joyce Lock

Angon-izing Over a Decision

Because it had been a while since my last visit to Curry Row in the East Village, I hadn't kept apace with the restaurant situation there.  As we all know, times are tough.  Nowhere is the flagging economy more evident than in the mostly empty Indian eateries on East 6^th Street.  We were surprised to find that, contrary to its takeout menu's stated hours, Angon was open on a Monday.  I wasn't certain whether I'd eaten there previously, but decided to give it a (possibly second) try.

As with many restaurants on this block, Angon's dining room is a few steps down from street-level.  The "Indian Culinary Den" is attractive, tasteful, and comfortable.  We were welcomed warmly and enthusiastically.  Our server was solicitous, without being intrusive—a task facilitated by our being the only guests.

I admit to being a sucker for sampler platters—especially when feeling particularly indecisive or unfamiliar with a restaurant's strengths (and weaknesses).  Maybe it was a combination thereof that led us to order the ultimate dinner-for-the-irresolute.

To begin, we selected the Assorted Appetizers ($10.95), a small sampling—e.g., samosa, pakora, and such—of their popular starters.  Unfortunately, the plate was overwhelmed by deep-fried, shredded vegetables, to conceal, perhaps, the dearth of more substantial items.  Were the appetizers tasty?  Yes, albeit each was a bit dry.  We were off to an adequate start.

The Garlic Nan ($3.50) sounded too interesting to pass up.  It was not quite garlicky enough for my tastes, but I found it preferable to plain Nan.

For the main course, we split the Mixed Grill Combo Platter ($19.95), a representative selection of Angon's tandoori specialities.  (It's well-suited for sharing by two.)  The Chicken Tandoori samples were nicely seasoned, but alas, slightly overcooked.  On the other hand, the Fish Tikka (salmon) and the Kababs were moist, tender, and tasty.  The second course was quite an improvement over the starter.

In sum, the sampler platters afforded a good overview of Angon's offerings.  Having favored the salmon, I'd like to pursue that as an option on my next visit.

 

Angon on the Sixth

320 East 6^th Street (between First & Second Avs), East Village, Manhattan

(212) 260-8229

http://www.angon.biz/

By train: 6 to Astor Place; F,V to 2 Avenue
By bus: M15, M8

Not Ravin' About Cake Man's Red Velvet

In 2000, Harlem-native Raven Patrick De'Sean Dennis III put a large, red dot—with frosting—on the map in Fort Greene, Brooklyn.  Not long after he opened Cake Man Raven Confectionery on Fulton Street, his Southern Red Velvet Cake became such a sensation that he began limiting each customer to four slices.  Furthermore, whole cakes had to be ordered "at least" a week in advance.  In spite of these restrictions (or, perhaps, because of them), hour-long waits on lines stretching down the block were common.  Fanfare for Raven erupted anew within the past year, when Applebee's announced it would serve the Cake Man's signature confection at its Brooklyn restaurants.

Thus, imagine our surprise when, on a recent visit (in late-afternoon, on a Friday) to the "home of the official Red Velvet cake," we encountered no lines and, more tellingly, no other customers!  (Two people did come in after we made our purchases: one bought two slices of cake, though not the Red Velvet; the other picked up a pre-ordered sheet cake.)  Equally surprising were the ready availability of whole cakes and the absence of a purchasing limit on slices.  Was this a fluke?  Cakewoman Maven and I were determined to find out.

Hype is a funny thing.  It can lead one to enjoy things more than otherwise warranted, or it can sensitize a person to noting all the subtle (and not so subtle) flaws of the object in question.  The question here is: How did Cake Man Raven's Red Velvet cake become one of the hottest dessert properties in town?

Red Velvet cake is one of Cakewoman's passions—to the extent that she considers it to be not only a favorite dessert, but an all-around favorite food.  We've found that most bakeries follow—if not perfectly—the basic precepts: a spongy, rich chocolate cake with its moistness enhanced by copious amounts of red food-coloring, preferably not too sweet, with a creamy frosting (usually made with cream cheese, ricotta, or both).  The sides of the cake are typically sprinkled with finely crumbled chocolate cake or dark chocolate shavings.

Excessive sweetness is a widespread problem.  It's characteristic of Stop & Shop's otherwise near-perfect version (on the rare occasions they offer it), as well as Stew Leonard's less-than-velvety attempt.  Without question, the best Red Velvet cake was that of our recently deceased caterer-friend, Barbara.  Her cake's texture was spongy and had just the right amount of give.  She used enough red food coloring to enhance the deep chocolaty flavor (and, importantly, moist texture) in that uniquely savory, "red-velvet" way, without overwhelming the chocolate.  Her lightly sweetened whipped-cream frosting further contributed to a finished product that wasn't cloyingly sweet.  Yum!

Alas, "cloying" is a word that came up repeatedly as we discussed our recent cake slices ($6 apiece) and identically tasting cupcakes ($5 for two) from Cake Man Raven.  But saying the cake is too sweet is merely the tip of this confectionery iceberg.  It is more significant to note that, had we tasted it blind, neither of us would have identified it as Red Velvet cake.

First, the texture is out of balance.  Though moist, the cake is neither springy nor spongy—it's just a heavy, starchy lump.  And, instead of any inkling of chocolate, the artificial taste of the food coloring, together with that of something vaguely almondlike, predominates.  Finally, the whole thing is slathered in an inch-thick coating of outrageously sweet frosting.  There's a hint of cream cheese, but the overpowering sugar element in both cake and frosting eliminates any possibility of detecting subtleties of flavor.  In sum, our blindfolded palates might have deemed this to be a moist, but leaden, yellow cake, laden with sugar and artificial flavoring.

Two options are available when ordering this confection: plain or with a pecan-coating on the frosting.  We found the latter preferable, because the nuts help to mitigate, albeit ever so slightly, the cake's, yes, cloying sweetness.

As mentioned earlier, Cake Man Raven doesn't limit himself to Red Velvet cake.  Also on display at his shop (and the only other slices sold during our 15-minute visit) were an alarmingly green coconut cake, alongside a yellow cake of a hue one might actually find in nature.

In sum, the two of us agreed that, had we been served this in a restaurant (assuming it weren't advertised as "Red Velvet cake"), we'd not have been terribly impressed—though we'd not have been terribly disappointed, either.  The cake's moistness is quite acceptable, and we might have enjoyed a few bites of it, without the frosting.  But to seek out this confection when the occasion calls for a Red Velvet cake—especially given its steep price?  In a word: No.  I'm afraid we'll have to look elsewhere.

Cake Man Raven Confectionery

708 Fulton Street (between S Portland Av & S Oxford St), Fort Greene, Brooklyn

(718) 694-CAKE (2253)

http://www.cakemanraven.com/
http://www.myspace.com/cakemanraven

By train: C to Lafayette Av; G to Fulton St
By bus: B25, B26, B52

When You Eat Too Well ...

Are you old enough to remember the advertising slogan, "When you eat too well, demand Di-Gel?"  I've never understood the paradox of shutting down the body's digestive system with antacids to offset the effects of overeating.  By neutralizing gastric acid in the stomach, such agents actually impede digestion.

As an alternative, when I eat too well, I take papaya enzymes.  Unlike an antacid's hampering effects on pepsin (a stomach acid needed to digest protein), the papaya's papain and chymonpapain enzymes promote the digestion of protein.  Doesn't it seem more reasonable to aid the digestive process rather than to hinder it?

Though nutritional supplements are mostly unregulated in the United States, the Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) quality-assurance seal identifies products made with high standards.  My personal choice is Country Life's Natural Tropical Papaya.  The chewable enzyme wafers taste much like papaya albeit sweeter.  More important, however, they are highly effective digestive aids.

Further reading:

www.brendawatson.com
www.jrussellshealth.org
www.greatestherbsonearth.com
www.nutritional-supplement-educational-centre.com

Texting for Discounts

Fight the recession by phone.  A new (beta release) service, Lunchtimedeals.com, offers, as the name implies, luncheon discounts at specific restaurants.  Coupons are sent by email and can be printed or routed to a cell phone (redeemable by displaying the text message to the cashier).

A broader service, 8coupons.com, was launched last year.  In addition to dining deals, this site offers printable and text-message coupons for discounted entertainment, shopping, and services.

Both services are free.

http://www.lunchtimedeals.com/
http://www.8coupons.com/

Thanksgiving in a Bottle

If your Thanksgiving guest list includes White Zinfandel drinkers, you might consider serving a (non-grape) fruit wine.  We found a cute one that seems to have been custom-made for a traditional turkey dinner: Sweetgrass Farm's Cranberry Apple wine.  It's low in alcohol (11%) and actually tastes like cranberries and apples—what a concept!  Furthermore, its lovely rosy color is sure to add festiveness to any holiday table.

Sweetgrass Farm WInery and Distillery

347 Carroll Road
Union, ME  04862

(207) 785-3024

http://www.sweetgrasswinery.com/

No Beaujolais Nouveau Before Its Time

While others agonize over selecting the perfect Thanksgiving wine, I prefer to simplify things by serving my seasonal favorite, Beaujolais Nouveau.  Clearly, I'm not alone.  The so-called first wine, or vin primeur, is so popular that it accounts for roughly a third of all Beaujolais production.  (Incidentally, unlike other reds from France's Burgundy region, Beaujolais is made from the Gamay grape, not from the Pinot Noir vinifera.)  Besides, what wine would be more apropos of a harvest celebration than one produced from grapes picked within the past two months?

I should point out that Beaujolais Nouveau is not a great wine and does not improve with age.  It is easy to drink, however, owing to its lack of tannins, abundance of fruit, and "just-squeezed" vinosity.  Furthermore, its light body affords an ideal introduction to red wine.

According to French law, you'll have to wait till the stroke of midnight to sample this year's vintage, however.  In 1985, the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine designated the third Thursday of November to be the wine's official release date.  Thus, a number of wine merchants will commence their Beaujolais Nouveau tastings tomorrow.

One of the liveliest celebrations—replete with accordionist Phoebe Legere—takes place this Saturday, from 2:00 P.M. till 6:00 P.M., at Brooklyn's Red White & Bubbly.  Sample wines from Georges Dubœuf as well as from Domaine Dupeuble (made without carbonic maceration; imported by Kermit Lynch).  (For those unable to wait until Saturday, Red White & Bubbly will open a couple of bottles for tasting Thursday afternoon.)  The tastings are free.

Red White & Bubbly

211-213  5^th Avenue (near Union St), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 636-WINE (9463)

http://www.redwhiteandbubbly.com/

Stamford's tawa Curries Favor

When I expressed my disappointment with Stamford's Olé Molé to my friend at the Vitamin Shoppe across the street, he suggested I try tawa, just a couple of miles down High Ridge Road.  (Driving directions were complicated by the restaurant's location: in a row of shops on a one-way segment of a tangled intersection at which Route 137 changes street names from High Ridge Road to Cold Spring Road, and meets Long Ridge Road (Route 104), Summer and Bedford Streets—an area known as Bulls Head.  Got it?)

Most Indian buffets I've sampled over the past several years have failed to impress.  Dishes prepared with stale ingredients would be typically allowed to desiccate in their warming trays to the point at which they were suitable for astronaut consumption.

Tawa, however, represents a welcome departure from the foregoing scenario.  Its recipe for a successful buffet includes fresh ingredients and a limited, but well-chosen, selection of hot dishes.  The turnover at lunchtime ensures frequent replenishment of the steam trays so that each dish tastes as though it had been prepared to order.

The spices are uniquely bright in aroma and flavor, suggesting they may be ground on the premises.  This alone makes every dish exceptionally tasty.  Nevertheless, there was one standout among all the offerings: the Kalmi Kabab (marinated chicken wings and drumsticks).  Unlike most chicken cooked in a tandoor (clay oven), this one was was succulent, tender, and delicious.

Incidentally, the name tawa (tah·vah, rhymes with ça va) refers to a pan or griddle used in the preparation of breads, or roti.  A few of the eponymous cooking implements adorn tawa's dining room walls.

Though the price of the executive lunch buffet was increased from $9.95 to $11 this year, it still represents a good value.  In addition, every sixth lunch is free with a lunch club card.

tawa

19 High Ridge Road
Stamford, CT   06905

Executive Lunch Buffet:  Mon-Fri, 11:30 A.M. to 2:30 P.M.; Sat & Sun, 12:00 Noon to 3:00 P.M.

(203) 359-8977
(203) 359-8978

http://www.tawaonline.com/

By bus: 31, 32

Condiments and Salad

Chicken Tikka Masala (chicken chunks in a creamy tomato sauce) / Khada Masala Ghosh (lamb curry with cilantro and garam masala)

Masala Vada (deep-fried lentil dumplings) / Kalmi Kabab (tandoor-roasted chicken)

Vatana (white peas) Masala / Saag Paneer (spinach and cheese with onions and a touch of garlic)

Rice / Aloo Kathal Curry (lightly curried potato and green jackfruit)

Dessert: Rasgulla (soft cottage cheese)

Wash it all down with a Mango Lassi (a yogurt drink with mango pulp).

Light or Dark? White or Red?

Still searching for the right wines to accompany your Thanksgiving feast?  Perhaps Bottlerocket Wines' Thanksgiving Workshop can help.  Ten wines—"from Champagne to Zinfandel, Riesling to Sauternes"—will be paired with tastes of City Bakery's roasted turkey and trimmings, vegetable side dishes, and even dessert.  Enjoy!

Bottlerocket Wine & Spirit

5 West 19^th Street (near Fifth Av), Manhattan

Saturday, 15 November 2008, 2:00 P.M. to 5:00 P.M.
Free.

(212) 929-2323

http://www.bottlerocketwine.com/

By train:  4,5,6 (IRT),L,N,Q,R,W (BMT) to 14^th St-Union Square
By bus: M1, M2, M3, M5, M6, M7

Restaurant Week in New England

A couple of New England cities kick off their respective food fests today.  Restaurant Week beckons visitors to savor the flavors of Newport, Rhode Island and New Haven, Connecticut.

Newport Restaurant Week
(November 9-15, 2008)

With roughly 35 Newport-area restaurants participating, this is by far the larger affair.  Three-course meals are fixed-priced at $16 for lunch and $30 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  In addition, numerous events—including wine tastings, cooking demonstrations, and even a martini contest!—are scheduled throughout the week.

(401) 845-9123
(800) 976-5122

http://www.gonewportrestaurantweek.com/

New Haven Restaurant Week
(November 9-14, 2008)

This is the city's first such celebration in its 370-year history.  From now until Friday, 18 downtown restaurants offer three-course menus, fixed-priced at $16.38 (the year New Haven was founded) for lunch and $29 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

http://www.infonewhaven.com/restaurantweek

Oooh, Nice Buns, er, Pretzels

Although Almondine refers to them as pretzels, they look more like rolls or buns.  Perhaps they ought to be named callipygian pretzels.  Regardless of their sobriquet, however, one has to call them delicious.

The Pretzels with Cheese ($3.25 apiece) are topped with Gruyère along with sesame and poppy seeds, and even contain a bit of cheese in the center.  Warm, soft, and tasty, they constitute the perfect nosh.  Be warned, however, that one pretzel usually leads to another.

These delectable snacks were introduced here by Almondine's first head baker, Roger Gural, whose impressive credentials also include principal positions at Bouley Bakery, Amy's Bread, as well as Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery.  He currently teaches at his alma mater, The French Culinary Institute, from which he earned Le Diplome de Boulanger in 1998.

 

Almondine

85 Water Street (near Main St), DUMBO, Brooklyn

(718) 797-5026

http://www.almondinebakery.com/

By train: A,C to High Street; F to York Street
By bus: B25 to Main Street

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestiblab:  The word pretzel comes from the (rhyming) German word Brezel; originally from the Latin brachiatus, branched (like arms), from brachium, arm.  According to legend, a monk created the knotted biscuit in the shape of arms folded in prayer.