Feed Your Memories

Memorial Day allows us to devote a little extra time to reflect upon the loved ones who are no longer with us.  So many memories can be triggered by sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and touches.  Each of us has different ways of processing senses; some of us even do it with a sixth one: cooking.  As a way of celebrating the memory of a very special lady in my life, my friend prepared a variation of a dish that I used to enjoy with her regularly: Frico di Asparagi.  I can't think of a better way to keep my beloved's memory alive than to share the recipe with you.

We had to start with great ingredients.  The Pioneer Valley of Massachusetts is justifiably famous for its asparagus.  We snagged some of the area's best from Mike, of Mike's Maze (no joke!) in Sunderland (sold at Millstone Farm Market across the street).  He grows a mighty tasty stalk.  It has a deep, rich, mineral quality we've not found elsewhere.

Except, perhaps, for eating it plain with a bit of salt, the ultimate way of conveying asparagus to mouth is to prepare it enveloped in a cheese that's cooked until golden brown.  For reasons of texture and flavor, the cheese must be Montasio—a mild, tangy hard cow's milk cheese from Friuli, Italy.  It's not widely available; we bought ours ($11.16 a pound) at Fairway in Red Hook, Brooklyn.

Ideally, what is presented to the diner is a bundle of spears wrapped blini- or crêpe-style by a blanket of Montasio cheese.

 

Frico di Asparagi

Serves 2

(NB Please read all steps before beginning.)

You will need:

Non-stick skillet (do not attempt this recipe otherwise).  (We use Circulon Commercial.)
Large spatula
1 standard-size bunch of asparagus
Water to just barely cover spears in skillet
1 TB (or to taste) any type of flavorful salt
Paper-towel-lined plate
2/3 lb. Montasio Cheese, coarsely grated

In skillet bring to boil water and salt.

Add asparagus, and simmer a few minutes, until al dente, but not droopy when held.

Remove spears to paper-towel lined plate. Rinse and dry skillet.  Return to burner.

Warm skillet over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Do not oil skillet!

Sprinkle cheese evenly in skillet.  It will sizzle.

Add dry asparagus to top of cheese in a single layer.  Try to arrange them as compactly as possible to one side or another of the pan (but don’t fuss too much over this).

Every stove is different, so cooking times will vary by a few minutes.  The objective is for the bottom of the cheese to be lightly golden and crispy.  This can take anywhere from 2 to 7 minutes.

When the cheese is properly golden, start from the side of the pan that has the most asparagus, and gently lift the edge of the cheese with a large spatula, folding the asparagus and cheese about 2/3 of the way across the pan.  Fold the cheese from the opposite side on top of the first.

Remove the entire bundle to a serving plate, seam-side down.  Serve immediately.  Cut in half lengthwise to serve.