COMESTIBLOG

Inductive Reasoning in the Kitchen

My previous post concluded with a turkey-carving demonstration by The River Café's executive chef, Brad Steelman.  Normally, when the turkey is carved, we eat.  But Brad had more interesting plans for these slices.  Before revealing his creation made therefrom, however, he offered a few tips for preparing his Mushroom Risotto.

For this recipe, Brad uses three types of mushroom: portobello (also called portobella), trumpet royale, and maitake.  He likes the trumpet royale for its appearance and its aptness to be julienned.  He also recommends the maitake, or hen of the woods (whose name derives from its resemblance to the plumage of a hen), for its nice, meaty flavor.

After peeling the mushrooms and removing some of their gills, it's time to start cooking.  Brad cautions against salting beforehand:  "When you add salt to an item before you put it into the pan, it pulls out some of the moisture; it then cools the pan down."  That, in turn, diminishes some of the color, caramelization, and, ultimately, the flavor.

Start the risotto with water (to make it light), and finish it with stock, seared mushrooms, mascarpone, truffle butter, and of course, Parmigiano Reggiano—"life is impossible without it," insists Brad. 

"You should think of each little grain of rice being cooked … that's what makes a good risotto," Brad declares.  A common pitfall is to cook it too slowly.  When this happens, the risotto becomes mushy and fails to cook evenly.  To aid in selecting the proper cooking temperature, Chef Steelman uses an Electrolux Induction Hybrid Cooktop.  Unlike gas or electric stoves, induction cooktops use electromagnetism to convey heat directly to the cookware without losing heat.  To wit, the cookware—not the cooktop—is the heat source.  Not only does this abate the heat in the kitchen, it affords more responsive temperature control, greater energy efficiency, and easier cleanup than does the older, radiant technology.  Induction cooking has been used in commercial kitchens for some time, with well-known chefs like Daniel Boulud among its pioneers.  "There isn't a high-end restaurant in New York that doesn't have an induction cooktop," says Brad.  Keep in mind that ferrous, induction-rated cookware is required, however.

The results are most impressive.

So, what became of the bird?  Brad created a beautiful Thanksgiving slider, replete with turkey, stuffing, and cranberry sauce.  Delicious!  As with sliders in general, one is never enough.  But alas, my solitary sandwich had to tide me over till dessert.

Ah, the final course.  Who doesn't love crème brûlée?  To add a Thanksgiving twist, Brad presents his in diminutive (Jack B' Little) pumpkins.  Jack B' Littles are not merely decorative, they're quite eatable.

Chef Steelman starts by slicing off the top and removing the seeds and pulp (all of which can be used for making soup).  He then rubs in autumn spices and places the shells into a preheated, 350°F oven.  After roughly 20 minutes of convection baking, Brad waits for the little pumpkins to cool, and fills them with the crème brûlée mixture.  (Not wanting to exaggerate the flavors, he opts for the classic vanilla-bean recipe instead of one infused with pumpkin.)  Back into the oven they go for 45 to 50 minutes, whereupon, they are refrigerated several hours.  Brad serves the tiny pumpkins with his signature pecan shortbread.

Simply marvelous!

The Perfect Turkey Made Simple

It was my great pleasure to meet with and participate in a cooking demonstration by Bradford Steelman, executive chef of Brooklyn's famed River Café this past Tuesday at Relais & Châteaux.

My fellow foodbuzzers and I were welcomed with wine and some of Brad's tantalizing hors d'œuvre: roasted suckling pig with kabocha (Japanese) squash and marshmallow, and crostini with goat cheese and black-olive tapenade.  The evening was off to a propitious start.

After the hors d'œuvre, it was time to talk turkey, however.  "Every Thanksgiving morning, the phone starts ringing off the hook at 8:00 A.M. with panicked people," declares Brad.  "How long should I cook it?" and "what's the ratio?" come the anxious queries.  "I'll just tell them to buy one of these," says Brad, referring to Electrolux's wall oven.  Indeed, the oven, with such whiz-bang features as the Perfect Turkey™ Button, takes the guesswork out of roasting a Thanksgiving bird.

Of course, there's more to preparing a turkey than pressing a single button.  Chef Steelman begins by brining the bird overnight (6-8 hours) in a solution of brown sugar, kosher salt, allspice, cinnamon, garlic, and other ingredients (please click here for specifics) using a clean, insulated beach cooler.

When the brining is complete, Brad places some of the vegetables and aromatics from the solution into the bird's cavity.  He then ties the gobbler and rubs it with with butter.

Next, Chef Steelman inserts the probe into the thickest part (near the bottom) of the thigh, making sure to avoid any bone.  Thereupon, he places the turkey onto the Luxury-Glide™ rack, presses the Oven and Perfect Turkey buttons, and closes the door—the oven does the rest.  Once the turkey is fully cooked, the oven switches to a keep-warm mode, holding the temperature at 170°F until the stuffing can be added.  That's it!

When carving the turkey, Chef Steelman removes the thighs first.

He then cuts along the sternum, following the contour of the bird, and makes a final incision by the wing bone.

He then slices the white meat across the grain.

Continued in the next post …

Foodbuzz Spices it up

One week ago, on 13 October, Foodbuzz, Inc. officially inaugurated its food blogger community.  Amid all the buzz, featured publishers from New York and New Jersey were invited to attend a dinner in their honor at Spice Market this past Saturday.  What a perfect opportunity to indulge in two of my favorite pleasures: talking about food and, better yet, consuming it.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten's interpretation of Asian street foods brings together the flavors Vietnam, Thailand, and China.  Dishes are served family-style to allow sharing.  Everything I tasted ranged from very good to excellent.  The red curried duck was a standout.

Pictured below are the menu and all the dishes thereon presented in order:

Shrimp Tod Mon Pla: slightly too salty

Chili-Rubbed Beef Skewers: succulent, delicious; fine dipping sauce

Pork Satay with Pickled Vegetables: highly delectable; overly subtle pickled vegetables

Spiced Chicken Samosas: perfectly prepared, flaky, delicious

Mango Salad, Cherry Tomatoes, and Crystallized Tamarind:
refreshing; a good complement to the other dishes

Cod with Malaysian Chili Sauce, Thai Basil: tangy, well-prepared

Red Curried Duck: seductively hot; the best dish of the evening

Char-Grilled Chicken, Kumquat Lemongrass Dressing: dominant
lemongrass influences

Chili-Garlic Egg Noodles, Seared Shrimp, and Star Anise:
unmistakable aromas of star anise

Snap Peas with Shiitake Mushrooms and Waterchestnuts:
fresh flavors and perfect consistency

Ovaltine Kulfi, Caramelized Banana and Spiced Milk Chocolate Sauce: rich, creamy, not too sweet, sinful

Assorted Cookies: a delightful ending

Special thanks to Foodbuzz's Ryan Stern and Devon O'Donnell, who flew in from San Francisco, and to Stacey Caron (Stacey Snacks) for organizing this spicy soirée.  Greetings also to my fellow foodbuzzers who made the evening so enjoyable.

Ryan, Stacey, and Devon

Spice Market

403 West 13^th Street (NW corner Ninth Av), Meatpacking District, Manhattan

(212) 675-2322

http://www.spicemarketnewyork.com/

By train: A,C,E (IND) to 14^th St; L (BMT) to 8^th Av
By bus: M11, M14A, M14D

A New England Breakfast Haunt

Although many retailers would have us believe it's Christmastime already, let's try to remember that the fall foliage season is just peaking in parts of the Northeast and that Hallowe'en is still two weeks away.  There'll be plenty of time for sleigh bells later.  But for now, why not rejoice in the splendor of the turning leaves and the forthcoming harvest they portend?  Should your weekend leaf-peeping take you through the hills of Western Massachusetts, consider a prandial visit to High Hopes Farm in Worthington.  Nestled in the foothills of the Berkshires, this rustic maple sugarhouse is an ideal starting point for a foliage-viewing jaunt.

Every spring and fall, the Rowe family presents their All-you-can-eat Sugarhouse Buffet ($9.95 for adults), a fortifying breakfast spread featuring pancakes, French toast, scrambled eggs, home fries, bacon, ham, sausage links, and, of course, their own pure maple syrup.  There are also English muffins and toast (with which to sample their maple cream and Indian sugar) as well as orange juice, coffee, tea, milk, and hot chocolate.  No one should leave hungry.

 
Beware of one thing, however: the place is haunted.  Well, sort of.  In the fall, young Caleb Rowe employs his decorating skills to fashion a haunted sugarhouse to be entered "if you dare."  Look out for the various spooky adornments—the young man has quite an imagination!

The exit is strategically situated through the gift shop, by the cashier.  Browse the numerous maple products as you contemplate your Christmas list.

 

High Hopes Farm

1132 Huntington Road (Route 112)
South Worthington, MA   01098

Saturdays and Sundays, 7:00 A.M. to 2:00 P.M.
27 September through 9 November

(413) 238-5919
(413) 222-5919

http://www.highhopesmaple.com/

 

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Rocket Lunch

As we face an uncertain economic future, many of us are dining out less or, perhaps, not at all.  Most of us haven't the temerity to take part in a $440,000 California retreat during a financial crisis.  Instead, we might take refuge in comfort foods and surroundings that evoke memories of a simpler time.

When I seek a reliable collation seasoned with a dash of nostalgia—whether in New York or out of town—a Johnny Rockets is a welcome sight.  Although this retro-diner chain was launched in Los Angeles in 1986, my initiation came several years later during a business trip to Atlanta.  The first Manhattan branch opened in the West Village some ten years ago.  It affords a good, convenient luncheon spot near NYU.  Another Manhattan location was since added on the East Side.

Johnny Rockets' décor is nearly identical throughout the chain.  The tables, chairs, tabletop jukeboxes, signs, posters, and other trappings are reminiscent of a '50s malt shop.  The coeval habiliments of the staff round out the motif.  Some may consider this sort of theme to be clichéd, but to those of us who remember when, it represents a vestige of happy days long ago.

The food quality is fairly consistent as one might expect from a menu dominated by burgers, sandwiches, fries, shakes, and malts.  The Tuna Salad Sandwich is my favorite and seldom disappoints.  Unlike many others I've tried, this one doesn't drown the white albacore in a sea of mayonnaise.  Normally, a sandwich and a cup of tea satisfy my midday appetite.  At Johnny Rockets, however, I try to save room for a slice of their delicious apple pie.  Made fresh daily, it's not overly sweet and has a delightfully flaky crust.  Although it's available with cheddar cheese or à la mode, I prefer it plain.  Yum!

While the menus of the two Manhattan Johnny Rockets list the same items, the midtown version comes with uptown prices.  For instance, in the Village, my tuna sandwich and apple pie cost $5.60 and $1.50, respectively; each costs 40 cents more uptown.  In fact, everything (except the jukebox) is more expensive at the East Side location.  Nevertheless, the pricier Johnny Rockets is busier than its downtown cousin.

 

Johnny Rockets

West Village:

42 East 8^th Street (SW corner Greene St), Manhattan

(212) 253-8175

By train: R,W to 8^th Street
By bus: M2, M3, M5 to University Place

East Side:

930 Third Avenue (SW corner 56^th St), Manhattan

(212) 813-0003

By train: E,V to Lexington Av/53 St (exit at Third Av)
By bus: M31, M57, M98, M101, M102, M103

Other locations

http://www.johnnyrockets.com/

Comestevents for October 10-12, 2008

Consider celebrating the season at one or more of the following comestible-related events:

Friday, 10 October:

Food Network New York City Wine & Food Festival

It's practically impossible to have escaped the ubiquitous promotion of Food & Wine magazine's Wine & Food Festival over the past several weeks.   Begun six years ago in South Beach, Miami, this comestible extravaganza makes its New York debut this weekend.  It features numerous food celebrities as well as various tastings, talks, walking tours, readings, book signings, and more.

The festival takes place primarily in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan.

9-12 October.  Check ticket prices and availability.

(866) 969-2933

http://www.nycwineandfoodfestival.com/

The Big Brooklyn Pig Roast and Harvest Hoedown

This is the first annual porcine roast in Brooklyn's version of Venice:  The Yard.  The main event involves a pit-roasted, 200-pound heritage hog, a variety of salsas, corn two ways, fresh greens, rice and beans.

The Yard
388-400 Carroll Street, Gowanus, Brooklyn
6:00 P.M. to 10:00 P.M.  Tickets:  $32 in advance; $40 at the door.  Cash bar.

http://brooklynbased.net/everything/the-big-brooklyn-pig-roast

By train: F,G to Carroll Street; M,R to Union Street
By bus: B71

Saturday, 11 October:

The Gowanus Harvest Festival

Partake of the cornucopia of Kings—County, that is—at The Yard on the banks of the Gowanus Canal.  Last year, more than a thousand people came for the "farm fresh food, live music, local vendors, pumpkin carving contests, pony rides, delicious brews and other triumphs of sustainable urban living."

The Yard
388-400 Carroll Street, Gowanus, Brooklyn
11:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M.  Tickets:  $12; free for children under 5.

By train: F,G to Carroll Street; M,R to Union Street
By bus: B71

Street Fairs:

Eighth Avenue Autumn Festival (from 42^nd to 57^th Streets), Manhattan

Third Avenue Bronx Fall Festival (from 149^th to 156^th Streets), Melrose, Bronx

West 4^th Street Festival (from Sixth Avenue to University Place), West Village, Manhattan

Sunday, 12 October:

Famous Famiglia World Pizza Eating Championship

Major League Eating is awarding a total of $14,000 in prizes at its inaugural world pizza-gorging competition.

Military Island, Times Square (43^rd St & Seventh Av), Manhattan
10:00 A.M. to 1:00 P.M.

http://www.majorleagueeating.com/

By train: 1,2,3,7 (IRT),N,Q,R,W (BMT) to Times Sq-42^nd St
By bus: M10, M20, M27, M104

Cheese Tasting at Food Emporium

Sample cheeses from The Cheese Embassador's American Artisanal and Mediterranean collections at Food Emporium.

1331 First Avenue (near 71^st St), East Side, Manhattan
12 Noon to 4:00 P.M.  Free.

2415 Broadway (near 90^th St), Upper West Side, Manhattan
4:00 P.M. to 7:00 P.M.  Free.

Street Fairs:

Amsterdam Avenue Fall Fair (from 76^th to 86^th Streets), Upper West Side, Manhattan

Court Street Fair (from Joralemon Street to Atlantic Avenue), Brooklyn
10:00 A.M to 6:00 P.M.

Comestevents for October 4-5, 2008

Saturday, 4 October:

Union Square Autumn Fair

Over 200 merchants, including food vendors, offer their wares along Park Avenue South, from Union Square to 23^rd Street.

Park Avenue South (from 17^th to 23^rd Streets), Manhattan
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(212) 809-4900

By train: 6 to 23^rd St;  4,5 (IRT),N,Q,R,W (BMT) to 14^th St-Union Sq
By bus: M1, M2, M3

Cranberry Festival

If you prefer a smaller fair with an old-fashioned neighborhood spirit, this one will suit your taste.  Situated at the western end of Cranberry Street—near The Promenade—this annual festival features food, drink, fun, and games.  Some of the featured attractions include a flea market, book sale, flower sale, apple dunking, pumpkin painting, and live jazz.  Enter the raffle to win a dinner or some other prize.  Moonstruck fans will especially enjoy this venue.

Cranberry Street (between Hicks St & Columbia Heights), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn
11:00 A.M. to 3:00 P.M.  Free.

By train: A,C to High Street; 2,3 to Clark Street
By bus: B25 to Cranberry Street;
From Manhattan: B51 to Cadman Plaza

Sunday, 5 October:

NYC Oktoberfest

More than 500 vendors help to celebrate the 1810 marriage of Prince Ludwig (later crowned King Ludwig I) of Bavaria to Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen.  One needn't be Bavarian or German to partake in the fun.

Lexington Avenue (from 42^nd to 57^th Streets), Manhattan
11:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(212) 809-4900

By train: 4,5,6 to Grand Central-42^nd St; E,V to Lexington Av/53 St

Deepavali

Also called Diwali, this annual Hindu Festival of Lights commemorates the return of Rama after his 14-year exile.  New York's second-largest Indian-themed event features regional delicacies, as well as arts, crafts, and dance.  After sunset, fireworks at Pier 16 will light up the sky over the East River.

South Street Seaport, Lower Manhattan

12:00 Noon to 8:00 P.M.  Free.

(917) 301-9333

By train: 2,3 to Fulton St; A,C to Broadway-Nassau
By bus: M9, M15