COMESTIBLOG

Canaille Expect Better?

One benefit of the Dine In Brooklyn promotion is its annual roll call of restaurants that have escaped my attention.  Canaille, on the fringes of Park Slope, is an example of such a place.  Though it's been around since October of 2007, I'd not heard of this Fifth Avenue French bistro previously.  Its website, however, seemed rather appealing and gave all indications of being a safe $25 bet.

Some of Brooklyn's most popular eateries are fully booked before restaurant week even begins.  Since Canaille (pronounced kuh·NYE) opens at 6:00 P.M. and does not accept reservations, I arrived early to avoid disappointment.  Though my fears of competing for a table were unfounded, there was ample disappointment nonetheless.

For the better part of an hour, my Comestaccomplice and I had the entire bistro to ourselves.  Although the (effectively) private dining room was pleasant, it signaled a problem.  From what I could tell, the lack of customers was not due to the cooking or the décor.  Rather, it seemed to all boil down to a single component: co-owner Philippe de Crespi, a native Parisian whose contemptuous arrogance is exceeded only by his bad attitude.  His demeanor suggested annoyance with our presence.  He appeared to be suspicious, nay, disdainful, of anyone temerarious enough to enter his establishment.  Even the name Canaille (a pejorative term that refers to the riffraff or the unwashed masses) affords an insight into his regard for his clientele (or lack thereof).  The friendliness of co-owner Marie MacLean, on the other hand, provided a warm antidote to her partner's disagreeable behavior.  Her pleasant, nearly apologetic tone was not enough to overcome Monsieur de Crespi's insuperable imperiousness, however.

Aside from the aforementioned situation, there seems to be no reason for this business to be foundering.  What de Crespi lacks in personality, he can almost offset with his cooking.  With part-time assistance from Lyonnais Chef Christophe over the past year, the kitchen is in competent hands.  Our meals were really quite tasty.

Philippe's background as a sommelier and his predilection for French wines are evident in Canaille's well-chosen, albeit overpriced, wine list.  Except for the Domaine Saint-Vincent Brut NV (from New Mexico), every wine comes from France.  Our choice of the crisp 2008 Jean Rosen Pinot Blanc from Alsace turned out to be a fine match for the courses to come.

Tapénade hors d'œuvre

Comprising two starters, three main courses, and two desserts, the Dine In Brooklyn menu was somewhat spare, and not all that representative of the bistro's regular carte.  We began with complimentary southern French hors d'œuvre of garlicky tapénade and toast.  Before we even had the chance to amuse our gueules, however, de Crespi asked us whether we were going to eat it.  Franchement!  Happily, we saw more of Marie than of Philippe the rest of the evening.

Citrus Salad

Carrot Cumin Soup

Having tried both available offerings, we felt that our starters lived up to expectations.  Though my companion's Citrus Salad (mixed greens with orange and grapefruit segments, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar) was fresh and appetizing, it was not much more than a good salad.  My Carrot Cumin Soup was a better choice.  Velvety, and tasting exactly as advertised, it's a dish I'd order again.  Both starters were prepared well using ingredients appropriate to the season.

Tarragon Chicken Linguine

Our mains were somewhat mixed.  While my Comestaccomplice's Tarragon Chicken Linguine (tarragon-braised fowl, pasta, and julienned carrots and zucchini) was satisfying, it was predictably ordinaire.  (Perhaps she'd have fared better with the third option of Moules Frites.)  My main course, on the other hand, was superb.  Served atop a split pea purée, the Pork Butt Confit was mouthwateringly flavorful, succulent, and tender.  The leguminous accompaniment to the pork's subtle seasoning was a succès éclatant.

Pork Butt Confit

For dessert, we were given the choice between banal and dull.  Both of us rejected the Milk Chocolate Roll in favor of the Crème Caramel.  The custard was just as we expected it to be—nothing more, nothing less.

Crème Caramel

To his credit, Philippe de Crespi turns out respectable comestibles.  While I consider some of his dishes worthy of another visit, his demeanor is simply too deterring to warrant a return.  Until he recognizes the extent to which his personality is militating against his success, it's improbable his bistro will thrive.  How can any business prosper if it treats its customers like canaille?

Canaille Bistro Français

78 Fifth Avenue (between St Marks & Prospect Pls), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 789-8899

http://www.canaillebistro.com/

By train: 2,3 to Bergen Street
By bus: B63

Chez Oskar Night

Dine-In Brooklyn was winding down, it was rainy, dark, and becoming late.  Where to eat?  Several unsuccessful attempts to score a last-minute reservation ultimately led to an enthusiastic availability at Chez Oskar in Fort Greene.  I'd passed the French-style bistro on several occasions but never paid it much heed.  But what the heck?  The situation was becoming desperate enough to warrant a $23 gamble.

Chez Oskar is a lively place that seems quite at home in this diverse neighborhood.  It could best be described as a bistro à la Brooklyn—casual, funky, and comfortable.  The service is friendly and the food is good, but I'd restrain any praise beyond that.

Country Pâté

I seldom surrender to cravings involving cholesterol-laden foods, but the Country Pâté sounded the most promising among the five starters on the restaurant-week menu.  Though the presentation was attractive, the taste failed to live up to the promise.  Bland and uninspired, this dish made me rue my dietary transgression.  It's a pity that the comparably priced escargots or the slightly more expensive salmon-and-tuna tartare were not offered.  Perhaps they would have made a better first impression.

Lamb Shank

The five main course offerings—comprising fish, chicken, lamb, beef, and mushroom risotto—were ostensibly well-chosen, appealing to a broad array of tastes.  Owing to the weather, I ordered the Lamb Shank to help defend against the chill that awaited me outside.  The meat, tender enough to fall off the bone, was served with fingerling potatoes, artichokes, sautéed endives, and pomegranate sauce.  The resulting concoction tasted much like a lamb stew.  While not bad, it was unremarkable and rather ordinary.   Statistically speaking, it seemed fitting that, among les plats of my two Comestaccomplices, mine ranked squarely in the middle.

Free Range Chicken

As at Pó Brooklyn, the fowl was a better choice here.  The Free Range Chicken with pancetta-potato gratin, caramelized onions, fava beans, and red wine sauce was rather tasty, albeit unexceptional.  Instead of educing flavor from the chicken, however, the sauce's role was reduced to that of an inoffensive, unassuming accompaniment to the bird.  It was a pleasant dish that would have benefited from a more aggressive sauce.  Perhaps I was foolishly expecting something a bit more akin to a coq au vin.

Lemon and Garlic Crusted Codfish

The Lemon-and-Garlic Crusted Codfish was the weakest of the main courses I sampled.  Served with poached leeks, potato crisp, and whole grain mustard vinaigrette, this offering could be aptly described as an insipid piece of fish with a few embellishments.  Unfortunately, its plate mates were too bland to rescue the foundering cod.

Sweet Apple Crêpes

Desserts were commensurate with the courses that preceded them—lots of promise unfulfilled.  I'm not sure why I had high hopes for the Sweet Apple Crêpes.  They certainly looked good.  The dry, flavorless pancakes with caramelized apples left me as cold as the accompanying cinnamon ice cream, however.  Although the Warm Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream was slightly better, it failed to catapult my taste buds into cacao ether.  None of us was tempted by the Mango Crème Caramel.

Warm Chocolate Cake

Unfortunately, none of our dishes seemed to cross the threshold that separates the extraordinary from the ordinary.  Most of the flavors failed to soar and some never even managed to take flight.  Nevertheless, Chez Oskar's following has continued to keep it afloat since 1998.  In terms of the $23 gamble, we probably broke even.  This is a good neighborhood bistro, but scarcely worth a trip on the G train.

Chez Oskar

211 Dekalb Avenue (NE corner Adelphi St), Fort Greene, Brooklyn

(718) 852-6250

http://www.chezoskar.com/

By train: G to Clinton-Washington Avs (exit at Clinton Av)
By bus: B38, B69

Storm These Bastille Day Comestevents 2009

Liberté, égalité, and fraternité will be celebrated slightly early again in Gotham this year.

Manhattan

On Sunday, 12 July, from 12:00 Noon till 6:00 P.M., everyone is invited to celebrate Bastille Day on 60^th Street, New York's "street fair with French flair."  The three-block fête takes place between Fifth and Lexington Avenues.  Enjoy Gallic delicacies at one of the many pique-nique tables provided.

Bastille Day on 60^th Street

http://www.bastilledaynyc.com/

By train: N,R,W to 5^th Avenue or Lexington Avenue; 4,5,6 to 59^th Street

On Tuesday, 14 July, le quatorze juillet, Cercle Rouge brings Bastille Day festivities to TriBeCa.  From 12:00 Noon till 8:00 P.M., pétanque sand courts, football de table (foosball), and entertainment will fill the block on West Broadway between Beach and White Streets.  Mangez traditional merguez sausages and frites while sipping Lillet, Deutz champagne, or another favorite libation.

Cercle Rouge
241 West Broadway (opposite N Moore St)
(212) 226-6252
http://www.cerclerougeresto.com/

By train: A,C,E to Canal St; 1 to Franklin St

Brooklyn

On Sunday, Smith Street becomes Rue Smith when it hosts Brooklyn's Bastille Day festivities.  Both Bar Tabac and Provence en Boîte will hold all-day celebrations featuring French food, drink, and pétanque tournaments.

Bar Tabac
128 Smith Street (SW corner Dean St)
(718) 923-0918
http://www.bartabacny.com/

Provence en Boîte
263 Smith Street (NE corner Degraw St)
(718) 797-0707
http://www.provenceenboite.com/

By train: F,G to Bergen Street

Saint Germain: Germanely French in Bay Ridge

When last I dined at this Bay Ridge bistro, it was called Provence en Boîte.  Although owners Jean-Jacques and Leslie Bernat have since packed up and relocated their Provençal "box" to Boerum Hill, this space retained its Gallic flavor when Jerome Vidy reopened it as Saint Germain in August, 2004.  (The name, incidentally, comes from the Left Bank district in Paris around the quartier latin, or Latin quarter—an historic area known for its literary and artistic life.)  I've wanted to try the Third Avenue namesake of Saint-Germain-des-Prés for some time, but have always considered the prices un peu cher.  This spring's Dine-In Brooklyn, however, afforded me an affordable occasion to sample their cuisine.

Being seated at my favorite table brought back memories of this bistro's previous incarnation.  Little has changed in the dining room since my last visit:  guests must still pass the enticing dessert showcase upon entering; the bar still stands along the wall beyond the confections; and the banquette still lines the opposite wall.  Though the cooking has remained French, the service has not.  (I miss the Bernat's lovely niece, a delightful French serveuse.)

The special prix-fixe menu (please see below) comprised four starters, four main courses, and seemingly countless desserts.  It offered a well-chosen selection, mostly from the regular menu.  The unaccustomed generosity of the promotional portions came as quite a pleasant (and satisfying) surprise.

My Kir Royale apéritif set the tone for the first course.  Its rosy effervescence made a delightful partner to the smoked salmon platter.  The sparkling wine, combined with the sweet influences of the cassis, complemented the rich smokiness of the fish as well as the piquancy of the caper garnish.  Generously portioned and served with toast and lettuce, this was a marvelous starter.  Interestingly, the salmon platter does not appear on the regular menu, though it probably should.

Smoked salmon platter with toast and lettuce

I should have ordered wine for my second round.  Instead, I succumbed to the seductive appeal of the Brigitte Bardot cocktail.  The mixture of lemon vodka, triple sec, and sparkling French pink lemonade sounded better than it tasted.  What was I thinking?  (I wonder whether I'll fall victim to Wild Love or a Screaming Orgasm next time.)

Onward to the main course.  Since I had a hankering for meat, I chose the Flank Steak au Poivre with pommes frites.  Popular in French kitchens, this cut comes from a part of the cow that normally receives considerable exercise.  While quite lean, the flank can be somewhat tough and stringy.  Thus, it requires rapid cooking on high heat.  As for my steak, it was slightly tough (predictably), but very flavorful, and cooked almost perfectly.  I say almost because it was not quite so rare as I'd requested—a minor point, overall.  The peppercorn sauce (made with green peppercorns, brandy, and cream) was consistent with my expectations: not great, but not bad, either.  It could have benefited from additional brandy.  The crisp pommes frites were authentic and very good, indeed.  Why can't all french fries be made from real potatoes?  Again, the ample portion's scale was more American than it was French.

Flank steak au poivre with pommes frites

Though sated after the main course, I still faced the prospect of selecting a dessert from the large display case.  With so many délices from which to choose, I picked the one that seemed to be exhorting me to consume it:  the apricot amandine.  My initial bite, however, revealed the real reason behind the tart's entreaties: fear of being the last to be chosen.  Apparently, this dessert had been deserted awhile.  I found myself doing battle with the crust—it was far too rigid.  Age may have also played a role in helping the almond paste overpower the retreating flavor forces of the sliced apricots.  I prefer my steaks aged, but not so my desserts.  (Perhaps I should have ordered the Porcupine confection instead.)

Apricot amandine

Among my Dine-In Brooklyn meals so far, this one has represented the best value.  Considering that the regular dinner menu lists steak au poivre at $21.95 and desserts at $6 apiece, the $23 fixed price for my three courses was a bargain.  Overall, my dinner was quite satisfactory despite the disappointing apricot amandine.  While the bistro fare at Saint Germain is unlikely to win awards for creativity, it is fairly reliable and tasty.

Saint Germain

8303 Third Avenue (near 83^rd St), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn

(718) 745-8899

By train: R to 86^th Street
By bus: B37

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Pomme de Terre, Not Ordinaire

A few years ago, a good French bistro like Pomme de Terre would have seemed unthinkable in this part of Ditmas Park, Brooklyn.  It still appears somewhat improbable today.  For instance, the nearby Newkirk Avenue BMT station has no fewer than two transit cops present at any given time.  And while undergoing its transformation from seedy grocery to upscale eatery, this space suffered numerous acts of vandalism.  Despite the annoying setbacks, owners Gary Jonas and Allison McDowell (founders of The Farm on Adderley nearby), and Jim Mamary (one of the founders of Patois) persevered and, on 31 March 2008, began serving, in their words, "well-loved food."  Since then, I'd always wanted to give this little bistro a try.  The recent Dine-In Brooklyn week afforded me a fine opportunity.

Dining weeks allow restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a reduced price.  Many restaurateurs use such occasions to put their best food forward.  Unfortunately, that was not the case at Pomme de Terre.  Their Dine-In Brooklyn menu seemed to target regular customers at the expense of newcomers.  Instead of featuring signature dishes, they offered items not found on their regular menu.  Perhaps with good reason.  After all, this little restaurant appears to have established a constant clientèle.  Nevertheless, I'd have preferred something a bit more representative—such as Steak Frites au Poivre—of their typical fare.

Although the bread is ordinaire, Pomme de Terre adds some nice French touches such as homemade butter to accompany it.  My meal began with a garlic soup containing a poached egg and topped with a croûton.  Perhaps I'm a bit too fond of garlic, but it seemed there just wasn't enough of it in the broth.  While this starter was a tasty and pleasant departure from the ordinary, its lack of ail intensity did not yield a favorable comparison with garlic-based concoctions I've enjoyed in Europe.

Garlic Soup

For the main course, chef David Pitula offered two choices: Warm Country Pâté and Chicken Paillard.  I opted for the latter, which was served in a goat cheese-basil vinaigrette, topped with grilled eggplant and squash, and accompanied by Yukon-Rosemary potatoes.  It was good, possibly even very good.  The overly acidic vinaigrette created a slight detraction, but was ameliorated somewhat by the sweetness of the grilled vegetables.  Overall, the flavors melded well.

Chicken Paillard

Had the cellar been commensurate with the wine list, I'd have found it quite acceptable.  I've come to expect a bistro's carte des vins to comprise few, but well-chosen—possibly esoteric—wines.  Unfortunately, it took four tries to find a wine that was actually in stock.  I finally settled on a glass of Vin de Savoie "Abymes," whose $9 price would have bought a bottle at a retail shop.

The dining room's décor is consistent with that of bistros one might find in Manhattan.  To wit, it has a sort of French feel.  Nevertheless, a Gallic bistro experience should transcend French-accented fare and décor.  Alas, the service was decidedly un-French.  My waiter made no efforts toward any sort of authentic pronunciation whatsoever.  (My request for a glass of "van de sahvwah" was met with a "vin da Savoy."  Oh well.)   While competent and not unfriendly by any means, the glib service was not all that ingratiating.  Perhaps I simply expect too much.

Lemongrass Panna Cotta

For dessert, I chose the Lemongrass Panna Cotta with mixed fruit.  While the tropical infusion provided a tangy twist, the consistency of the panna cotta lacked the buoyancy I've come to expect.  Again, at a purportedly French bistro, I'd have preferred the Gallic version of burnt cream: crème brûlée.

Whatever its minor shortcomings, Pomme de Terre is a welcome addition to a neighborhood that has been bereft of superior dining spots far too long.

Pomme de Terre

1301 Newkirk Avenue (NE corner Argyle Rd), Ditmas Park, Booklyn

(718) 284-0005

http://www.pdtny.com/

By train: B,Q to Newkirk Avenue
By bus: B8, B68

The Patois of New York

For the time being, wistful diners who pass 255 Smith Street, Brooklyn will have to adapt to the patois of Little Italy to enjoy some of their Gallic favorites.  In January, Patois, a 1997 pioneer of Smith Street's restaurant row, closed its doors with the promise of reopening across the street in the near future.

Last Wednesday, meanwhile, the Mulberry Street incarnation made its debut.  Although the new digs are brighter and cleaner than the recently abandoned ones in Carroll Gardens, they somehow lack that je ne sais quoi.  Nevertheless, "the food is the same," I'm reassured.

Incidentally, Patois' prix fixe menu ($9.95 from 11:30 A.M. till 4:00 P.M.; $19.95 after that) represents an extraordinary value.

The future of the Manhattan location is uncertain, however.  Will the new Patois will continue to operate should indeed the newer one open at 254 Smith Street?  Stay tuned.  But in the meantime, bon appétit!

Patois

177 Mulberry Street (near Broome St), Little Italy, Manhattan

(212) 925-8157

By train:  6 to Spring Street; J,M,Z to Bowery
By bus:  M1, M103, B51

Oooh, Nice Buns, er, Pretzels

Although Almondine refers to them as pretzels, they look more like rolls or buns.  Perhaps they ought to be named callipygian pretzels.  Regardless of their sobriquet, however, one has to call them delicious.

The Pretzels with Cheese ($3.25 apiece) are topped with Gruyère along with sesame and poppy seeds, and even contain a bit of cheese in the center.  Warm, soft, and tasty, they constitute the perfect nosh.  Be warned, however, that one pretzel usually leads to another.

These delectable snacks were introduced here by Almondine's first head baker, Roger Gural, whose impressive credentials also include principal positions at Bouley Bakery, Amy's Bread, as well as Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery.  He currently teaches at his alma mater, The French Culinary Institute, from which he earned Le Diplome de Boulanger in 1998.

 

Almondine

85 Water Street (near Main St), DUMBO, Brooklyn

(718) 797-5026

http://www.almondinebakery.com/

By train: A,C to High Street; F to York Street
By bus: B25 to Main Street

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestiblab:  The word pretzel comes from the (rhyming) German word Brezel; originally from the Latin brachiatus, branched (like arms), from brachium, arm.  According to legend, a monk created the knotted biscuit in the shape of arms folded in prayer.

Storm These Bastille Day Events

Liberté, Égalité, and Fraternité will be celebrated slightly early in Gotham this year.

Manhattan

On Sunday, 13 July, from 12:00 Noon till 6:00 P.M., everyone is invited to celebrate Bastille Day on 60^th Street, New York's "street fair with French flair."  The three-block fête takes place between Fifth and Lexington Avenues.  Enjoy Gallic delicacies at one of the many "picnic tables" provided.

http://www.bastilledaynyc.com/

By train: N,R,W to 5^th Avenue or Lexington Avenue; 4,5,6 to 59^th Street

Brooklyn

On Sunday, Smith Street becomes Rue Smith when it hosts Brooklyn's Bastille Day festivities.  Both Bar Tabac and Provence en Boîte will hold all-day celebrations featuring French food and Pétanque tournaments.

Bar Tabac
128 Smith Street (SW corner Dean St)
(718) 923-0918
http://www.bartabacny.com/

Provence en Boîte
263 Smith Street (NE corner Degraw St)
(718) 797-0707
http://www.provenceenboite.com/

By train: F,G to Bergen Street

The Little Bistro Marchés on

The recent Dine In Brooklyn week afforded me the perfect occasion to try Le Petit Marché, a relative newcomer to North Brooklyn Heights—an area where only the strong survive.  Nearly a year-and-a half old, this little Gallic bistro is the sort of place that allows me to boast that, for the money, Brooklyn offers better dining than does Manhattan.

 

Chef Mick Pirnick produces sumptuous dishes with flavors that harmonize on the palate.

My starter of escargot broiled with garlic herb butter was garlicky, nicely seasoned (though a little salty), fresh, and quintessentially French.  Call me a traditionalist, but this classic preparation, served with a slice of toast, is preferable to more recent en croûte variations I've had.

As a main course, I chose the seared wild striped bass with Provençal dressing and spring vegetables.  The flavors of the fish and vegetables blended well.  Again, the ingredients were very fresh and well seasoned, except for some slight over-salting.  (Mind you, I'm not shy about salt—I typically add it to everything.)

Last, I was torn between the Tahitian vanilla crème brûlée and the warm strawberry rhubarb crisp à la mode—I chose the latter.  (All right, I’m not always a traditionalist.)  Unlike most desserts of this sort, this one was not overly sweet and, equally important, served as a much-needed reminder of spring's arrival.

Le Petit Marché is a pleasant addition to this end of Henry Street.  The tastefully decorated dining room with its exposed brick walls and tin ceiling befits the neighborhood.  The welcoming husband-and-wife team of Daniella Silone and Igor Tsan offer their essential personal touch; the service is professional and courteous.  One can really sense that they strive to please.  This one’s a keeper.

 

Le Petit Marché

46 Henry Street (bet. Cranberry & Middagh Sts), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn

(718) 858-9605

http://bkbistro.com/

By train: A,C to High Street or 2,3 to Clark Street

By bus: B25 to Cranberry Street;
From Manhattan: B51 to Cadman Plaza

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