Comestiblog

Red's Eats: A Wicked Good Lobster Shack in Maine

An article on the best Lobster Roll in Maine (and hence, the world) with no mention of Red's Eats in Wiscasset?

Perhaps maine. The Magazine (A-List, Lobster Rolls, August 2010, p. 49) thinks itself too highfalutin to follow the herd, to wait on that hour-long line with hoi polloi.  (Or perhaps the writer simply required instant gratification.)  No such pretensions here.  Part of the charm of Red's is, indeed, to stand on line and trade stories with both aficionados and newbies.  Another wonderment is to contemplate the bidirectional logjam on U.S. Route 1 through Wiscasset—cars farther than the eye can see or the telephoto lens can capture.

Distractions aside, the main event at Red's is, without question, the singularly delicious ("wicked good," in local parlance) Lobster Roll: the meat of more than one lobster, served on a grilled New England-style hot dog bun with love and artistry by the same small handful of friendly, hard working folks day in, day out.  The extravagant sandwich ($18.95) contains pure, fresh lobster only; drawn butter and mayonnaise are available upon request.  Others have described it in minute detail, and there's little to be added except to ratify, without hesitation, the general consensus that this is, claws down, the best lobster roll on earth.

Housed in a diminutive trailer-turned-shack that has stood in the same spot since 1954, Red's Eats became a favorite among lobster roll enthusiasts after Allen W. Gagnon bought the business in 1977.  Disgusted by an inferior roll he'd tried—made with frozen lobster and various fillers—he was determined to "make a lobster roll that's a lobster roll."  Though Al Gagnon died just over two years ago at the age of 71, his legacy lives on through his family.  Serving as manageress and cashier, daughter Debbie Cronk is also Red's official publicist, having recently penned a book with Virginia Wright entitled Red's Eats: World's Best Lobster Shack.  (The name Red, incidentally, antedates the late Mr. Gagnon.  Though he adopted the sobriquet, he was not the eatery's namesake—that appellative distinction belongs to Red Delano, one of the original owners.)

Interestingly, Red's Eats is not just a lobster shack.  In addition to its famous signature sandwich, Red's stands out in other culinary ways.  My Comestaccomplice had eaten here previously, but following a lobstah overdose from a week in Maine, opted for the double cheeseburger.  Her burger was excellent, as were the crisp onion rings, creamy Round Top ice cream, and locally produced Cranberry Island Kitchen Whoopie Pies, all of which we enjoyed on this visit.

Red's offers a rather extensive menu for those whose first choice is not crustacean.  While our experience is limited to the aforementioned items, we are pretty confident that anything at Red's is among the finest of its kind.

The blueberry shake—another Maine speciality

After spending an hour or more in stalled traffic, the idea of waiting on line yet another hour may seem beyond the pale.  Nevertheless, Red's is a quintessentially Maine experience—or a worldwide one, by some accounts—that is not to be missed as an important claws of a family vacation narrative.

Red's Eats

41 Water Street (NE corner Main St-U.S. 1)
Wiscasset, ME   04578  (map)

(207) 882-6128

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wiscasset-ME/Reds-Eats

Debbie Gagnon Cronk

A perfect combination: Drawn butter with my Lobster Roll

Red's Eats seating

2002 WQED video featuring the late Allen Gagnon

Thanksgiving in a Bottle

If your Thanksgiving guest list includes White Zinfandel drinkers, you might consider serving a (non-grape) fruit wine.  We found a cute one that seems to have been custom-made for a traditional turkey dinner: Sweetgrass Farm's Cranberry Apple wine.  It's low in alcohol (11%) and actually tastes like cranberries and apples—what a concept!  Furthermore, its lovely rosy color is sure to add festiveness to any holiday table.

Sweetgrass Farm WInery and Distillery

347 Carroll Road
Union, ME  04862

(207) 785-3024

http://www.sweetgrasswinery.com/

A Farewell Toast to Summer and Maine

As we headed home from Deer Isle, we made a couple of stops along Maine's Wine Trail.  Don't laugh; there are actually 18 wineries in the state.  Planted only ten years ago, the Cellardoor Vineyard is Maine's oldest, and comprises grape varieties such as La Crescent, Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminette, Seyval Blanc, Concord, Elvira, Niagara, and Vidal Blanc.  It is situated on a 68-acre property, some five miles from Camden Harbor, in a valley between Cameron and Levenseller Mountains.  The owners fondly describe it as, "a little bit of Tuscany in the Camden Hills," and it indeed beckons the visitor to stroll amid its rolling terrain, pond, and colorful perennial gardens—as we did.

The beautifully restored 1790s barn-turned-tasting room affords scenic vistas to the six-acre vineyard and the hills beyond—through the large  windows or from the outdoor deck.  It's the sort of dramatic space one might expect to find in California's wine country.  In addition to the tasting bar and tasteful display racks, there is a gift shop offering numerous gadgets and toys for the oenophile and casual wine drinker alike.

But how are the wines?  Beyond all the discussion of "handcrafting," "tradition," and "Old World style," they tasted much as I had expected.  In nearly every case, a small pour was sufficient.  Among the grape wines, the Casa Blanca (Sauvignon Blanc, aged in oak) is, perhaps, the best.  At $15.99, however, far better options exist elsewhere.  The Queen Anne's Lace (a Vidal-Riesling blend) is Cellardoor's most popular.  Its sweetness appeals to people who don't normally like wine, and, as such, is near the bottom of my list of $14.99 bottles.  We ended up buying the Blue Lobster Blue ($14.99), a tart, oaked, blueberry wine.  Unusual, yes, but a pleasant souvenir quaff all the same.

Even though the wines aren't among my favorites, the visit to Cellardoor was rather enjoyable.  Sampling wines is always fun and doing so in such a lovely setting made our visit worthwhile.

Cellardoor Vineyard

367 Youngtown Road
Lincolnville, ME   04849

Open daily, 10:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M., May to October

(207) 763-4478

http://www.mainewine.com/

 

Light or Dark, a Sweet Ending to Summer

How about some chocolate as a sweet finish to the summer and to our Down East jaunt?  Strolling through Stonington, Maine's Friday morning farmer's market, we were not surprised to find fresh vegetables, dairy products, baked goods, and meats.  We did not expect to find artisanal chocolates, however.

A couple of samples from Black Dinah Chocolatiers convinced us that this was the genuine article.  The husband-and-wife team of Steve and Kate Schaffer started their business just over a year ago on the remote Isle au Haut, "nestled into the long shadows of Black Dinah Mountain."  Their beautiful handcrafted chocolates combine fresh, local ingredients with flavors from farther afield.  For instance, the Varietal is made with rare Peruvian cacao, the Chocolate Gingerbread contains Barbados molasses, and most of the other selections are infused with Venezuelan chocolate.  It's hard to pick a favorite.

The price for all this sweet pleasure is as steep as some of the area's mountains, however.  At just under $2 apiece, these truffles are more expensive than those of Jacques Torres, but darn it, they're good!

Black Dinah Chocolatiers

P.O. Box 13
1 Moore's Harbor Road
Isle au Haut, ME   04645

(207) 335-5010

http://www.blackdinahchocolatiers.com/

A Must-Sea Stop in Stonington

Stonington, Maine has many charms in the way of scenery, history, and seafood.  But if there is one place not to miss, it falls into the third category.  Stonington Sea Products is a mecca for the seafood aficionado.  Whether your preference is smoked or fresh, it's hard to beat SSP's catch for taste, quality, and price.

Richard Penfold brought his authentic, centuries-old Scottish cures and smoking techniques (using Scottish kilns) to Maine from the Shetland Isles.  His uncompromising standards are evident in SSP's products.  Everything we've sampled is first-rate.  Our favorite item to take home—available only in the fish shop—is the smoked salmon trim.  Six ounces of heavenly, smoky-sweet salmon costs only $4.60—an extraordinary value.  We've also enjoyed the smoked trout, mussels, and Maine shrimp.  The smoked Arctic Char from our most recent visit became one of our all-time favorites.  There are countless other options on the smoked menu alone, and the variety of fresh fish and shellfish is at least as extensive.  All from a tiny counter area that barely accommodates three customers at a time.  Who'd have guessed?

Stonington Sea Products

100 North Main Street (Route 15)
Stonington, ME   04681

(888) 402-2729 or (207) 367-2400

http://www.stoningtonseafood.com/

A Cockatoo in a Goose Cove

What a shame, we thought, as we approached the sign outside the old Cockatoo seafood shack at Webb Cove in Stonington.  It seemed another one had bitten the dust.  Though mainly a takeout place with limited seating (four tables, alfresco, on a small porch), the food was superb.  But wait, they're not closed—the sign says they've simply moved!  Smiles returned to our faces.

Suzen Carter is arguably the best chef on Deer Isle.  Apparently, a wealthy benefactor from St. Thomas, Virgin Islands agrees.  So much so that he purchased the erstwhile Goose Cove Lodge, with its spectacular perch overlooking Penobscot Bay, to provide Suzen an environment befitting her cooking.

This was by no means a simple upgrade.  It was an overwhelming leap, from a tiny adjunct to a seafood market, to a large-scale, upmarket restaurant.  By July of 2007, Suzen found herself running both restaurants while running herself ragged in the process.  This year, the small eatery at Webb Cove did not reopen, allowing Suzen to devote her full attention to her new culinary showplace.  Her husband, Bradley Carter, a fisherman, continues to operate Carter's Seafood market at the old Cockatoo site on Oceanville Road.

As we approached the new Cockatoo Portuguese Restaurant and entered the reception area, the lovely setting and gracious welcome portended the pleasurable evening that awaited us.  Each table in the dining room affords a water view, but ours was among the few with a completely unobstructed ocean vista.

Our helpful waitress started by presenting some rather banal-looking slices of bread.  Looks can indeed be deceiving.  The moist, warm bread was ever-so-slightly seasoned with a garlic butter, and was an appetizing beginning.  Before ordering, we were told that the chef treats her clientèle as family and gives each dish individual attention, presenting it only when it meets her high standards.  Thus, we were cautioned, the resulting wait could be significant.  Nevertheless, with such appealing bread to tide us over, we were not the least bit concerned.  As it turned out, we had barely finished the tasty slices when our first course arrived.  (Apparently, timing has been a problem, however.  The following day, a member of the Cockatoo staff recognized us.  Her first concern, even before asking how we liked the food, was to make sure we'd not waited too long for our dinners.)

Suzen Carter, an Azorean native, spent part of her childhood in Fall River, Massachusetts.  Her Portuguese menu emphasizes dishes that take advantage of the Carter family's access to the North Atlantic's bounty.  As we gazed about the dining room, we noticed that nearly every table had ordered the stunning, enormous lobster-capped Paelha platter, and wondered whether this was the meal here.  Normally, we like to order different dishes for the sake of variety.  But, after perusing the menu and hearing the specials, there was just one choice we both felt presented a unique opportunity—the just-harpooned Swordfish Mozambique.

We were similarly like-minded about our starter: clam chowder.   We should have realized that we were ordering the Portuguese-inspired New England variety typically served in Fall River, New Bedford, and Providence.  Rather than being thick and creamy, this chowder is based on a thin, milky chicken broth.  It is not our favorite preparation, but no one could argue against the freshness of the ingredients and the deft hand of its subtle seasoning (both qualities, it was becoming clear, being hallmarks of Suzen's exacting cooking standards).

The Swordfish Mozambique arrived in a beautiful presentation.  A generously sized steak lay atop a mound of deeply golden spaghetti, colored by saffron and turmeric, the dish's predominant spices.  Tossed with the pasta was a wide variety of perfectly cooked, garden-fresh vegetables, including broccoli, squash, and green beans.  The fresh fish melted on the palate, and the spicy noodles were delicious.  This is the one dish whose seasoning was decidedly unsubtle, with Suzen's judicious touch keeping everything in perfect balance.  We were delighted by the Mozambique style's piquancy and unfamiliar combination of flavors.

Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde was our cellar selection.  This Portuguese "green wine's" light, refreshing, pétillance is an ideal partner to grilled fish.  Its lively freshness also makes it a lovely summertime quencher.  (Incidentally, verde, or green, refers to the wine's youth rather than to its color.)

Our meal was rounded out by an unusual but thoughtful dessert.  After the ceremonial exchange of first slices, a couple was kind enough to share their wedding cake with all the restaurant's guests.  Suzen had created a beautiful, tiered white cake with wild blueberry filling for their big day.  The quality of her pastry is equal to that of her savory creations.  My dining partner remembers fondly the desserts at the former location.

Though the prices at The Cockatoo are not so affordable as those of most of Deer Isle's family-oriented places, they are reasonable for what is delivered.  They represent a happy departure from over-inflated prices and their corresponding egos in the kitchen.  Fortunately, this restaurant has neither.  It is a warm, welcoming destination with food as sumptuous as the views.  It is a place that hasn't seen the last of us!

The Cockatoo Portuguese Restaurant

300 Goose Cove Road
Deer Isle, ME   04627   (map)

(207) 348-2300

Open Memorial Day weekend through Columbus Day.

http://www.thecockatoorestaurant.com/

The Lowdown Down East

Why is Maine, the northernmost New England state, considered to be Down East?  The term originated with sailors whose schooners were propelled by (southwest) tailwinds from Boston toward Maine.  Thus, they were said to be sailing downwind and eastward, or, simply, down east.  Comestiblog heads down east to Deer Isle, Maine for a series of posts.

The two islands comprising Deer Isle cap a peninsula that reaches deep into Maine's Penobscot Bay.  The more southerly Deer Isle is connected by a causeway to Little Deer Isle.  This, in turn, is linked to the mainland by the distinctive Deer Isle-Sedgwick Suspension Bridge, built in 1939.  At the southern tip of Deer Isle lies the town of Stonington, the enduring center of the islands' economy and population.

The 18^th century settlers' farming activities quickly depleted the area's fragile soils.  During the second half of the 19^th century, however, two new industries, fishing and granite quarrying, became mainstays of the area's economy and remain so today.

The 1939 bridge made Deer Isle, already a summer destination of the Eastern Seaboard elite, accessible to the more casual tourist.  Tourism, especially kayaking, has gained significant popularity in recent years.  In addition, 60 percent of Isle au Haut (pronounced Aisle O'Ho, no iniquity intended), about seven miles south of Deer Isle, is preserved as a branch of Acadia National Park (the bulk of which, Mount Desert Isle, lies farther north along the coast).  Isle au Haut is a popular hiking and biking destination for day-trippers via ferry.

Also on the upswing is the once-struggling lobster industry.  Newly protected habitats are yielding better catches, with an attendant uptick in prices.  Stonington's robust fleet of lobstermen is one of the largest sources of Maine lobster, with factories working round the clock preparing the spiders or bugs for shipment worldwide.

Since 1870, granite has been an integral part of the local economy.  Deer Isle granite has been used in the construction of such notable landmarks as the Manhattan Bridge, the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, the Smithsonian Institution, and JFK's tomb at Arlington National Cemetery.  The importance of Deer Isle's quarrying to Maine’s economy was recognized in 1897 when the theretofore Green’s Landing was rechristened Stonington.  There is a fascinating array of quarries, ancient and current, scattered about Deer Isle and its shelter islands for the curious to explore.  The Granite Museum in Stonington is a good starting point.

The current tourist scene is best described as laid-back.  Countless small galleries dot the peninsula and the two Deer Isles.  In Stonington, a vibrant Friday morning farmer's market brings together both artisans and purveyors of farm-raised staples such as meat and eggs.

There are numerous hiking trails and nature preserves, all of which afford spectacular vistas around every corner.  The best sources of gallery guides and hiking maps are the Visitor Center on Little Deer Isle, and the Island Heritage Trust house on the west side of Deer Isle.

Eating on Deer Isle is generally an either-or affair.  A couple of pricey establishments, such as the Maritime Café and Whale's Rib, cater to the wealthy tourist and well-heeled summer resident.  Their menus feature the standards tarted up, with prices tarted up accordingly.  Fortunately, there are also family places, such as Mikey G's, Finest Kind (with a small, but adequate, salad bar), and the Harbor Café, that offer comprehensive menus at reasonable prices.  In a word, the whole point of a visit to this part of the world (aside from the scenery) is to partake of the local catch: lobster.

The foregoing establishments all serve it, along with other just-caught shellfish, including the ridiculously sweet tiny Maine shrimp.  So why pay more at a tony place?  The best lobster during this visit was at the Harbor Café, the cheapest and most basic of the area's eateries.

One snag to an overnight stay on Deer Isle is breakfast.  If it's not included with your accommodations, you have exactly two choices, or if it is the weekend, just one: the Harbor Café.  Be sure to arrive before 10:45 A.M., however; Harbor Café absolutely stops serving breakfast at 10:45:01 (and their clock is even slightly fast).  Should you be fortunate enough to be breaking fast on a weekday, consider a visit to Lily's Café.  Operated by Kyra Alex, this homey eatery on the edge of town serves some of the finest blueberry pancakes I've tasted.  The batter is buttery, with crisp edges, and plenty of wild Maine blueberries.  Lily's doesn't skimp on quality; the generous serving of syrup is genuine maple, from a local farm.  All that generosity, however, comes with a price—$8.50 for pancakes alone.  Lily's also offers excellent sandwiches and home-baked goods, all of which can be served in the gardens, should you so desire.  Unfortunately, the counter staff can be somewhat impertinent.  When asked about their bagels, the young woman behind the counter replied, "A bagel is a bagel … I suggest you order something else."  Huh?  We take bagels seriously in New York.  Ignorance is no excuse for insolence.

There are two exceptions to the either-or comestible scene.  Both Stonington Sea Products and The Cockatoo Portuguese Restaurant are worth the journey to Stonington in their own right.  Each will be described in delectable detail in upcoming posts.

The Lobster Warren of Kittery, Maine

Ayuh, Comestiblog heads Down East to sample some of Maine's attractions.  The first thing to greet us upon crossing the Piscataqua River from New Hampshire into Maine on U.S. 1 is the sign for Warren's Lobster House in Kittery.   Founded by Warren "Pete" Wurm in 1940 (when the price of lobster was 25¢ a pound), this waterside eatery has evolved from a six-stool, walk-up clam-and-lobster stand into a 350-seat restaurant—replete with its own lobster pound and full-service bakery—serving seafood as well as landlubber fare.  In addition, Warren's has a 200-foot boat dock for those arriving by water.

The New England clam chowder, salad bar, "wicked good lobstah," and fresh fish we enjoyed during our first visit last winter occasioned our return this August.  Since I'm not a crustacean aficionado and because my dining companion wanted to try something different, neither of us ordered lobster this time.  Besides, we were headed further up the coast deeper into lobster mecca.

Unfortunately, our hostess was somewhat abrupt and curt.  (When will restaurants learn to put friendly people on the front line?)  Once we were seated, however, things improved slightly.  We started with a couple of trips to the soup and salad bars.  Warren's purports to  have "the seacoast's finest salad bar."  With more than 50 fresh items from which to choose—including such Yankee staples as pickled Brussels sprouts, mustard pickles, and baked beans—this alone could constitute a meal.  Among the many mayonnaise-based salad options, the coleslaw was particularly good.

My Comestaccomplice ordered the mussels, which came with a lemony wine broth containing lots of garlic, while I chose the naked salmon, broiled with just a "touch of oil and spice."  The mussels were extremely fresh and tasty, though the broth was thin and underseasoned.  The abundance of garlic, however, rescued the dish.  The naked fish, on the other hand, was overcooked and would have benefited from a little dressing up.  To make matters worse, my vegetables, whose flavors had been thoroughly annihilated during the cooking process, arrived long after I had finished my main course.  They were certainly not worth the wait … or anything else, for that matter.

Overall, this experience was mixed.  Though my friend's meal was rather good, mine was mediocre.  The unfriendly receptionist's deportment earned Warren's a demerit and resulted in a less satisfactory visit than our first one.

Despite the bribe to visit the gift shop (a key, presented with the check, that may unlock a treasure chest prize), the kitschy and overpriced tourist trap is best avoided.  Far more rewarding is a leisurely perusal of the entry to Warren's dining area.  It features an interesting montage of early menus and other restaurant memorabilia.

Warren's Lobster House

11 Water Street-U.S. 1
Kittery, ME   03904-1629   (map)

(207) 439-1630

http://www.lobsterhouse.com/