Comestiblog

Basking in the New York Vibe at Bar Basque

It's the quintessential New York experience: enjoying Basque-style tapas, prepared by a Hawaiian chef, in a TRONesque setting, on the terrace of a swank hotel (with a doorman standing watch at the velveteen-roped entryway), while viewing videos on a 35-foot outdoor high-definition LED screen.  That's the vibe at Bar Basque, a trendy, upscale spot for superb food and drink near Herald Square in Midtown Manhattan.  My Comestaccomplice and I had the pleasure of sampling Executive Chef Yuhi Fujinaga's summer menu recently as guests of Bar Basque.

Opened 14 October 2010 on the second floor of Eventi (a Kimpton Hotel), Bar Basque features an extensive terrace lounge dining area with expansive windows.  Entering the space, however, is like stepping into a science fiction film.  The incarnadine walls and dim lighting are the work of Syd Mead, an acclaimed film and conceptual designer.  His influences in films like Blade Runner, Aliens, and TRON are morphed into the restaurant's high-tech design.  Some passageways—such as the ones to the rest rooms—are so dark as to require navigational assistance from members of the helpful staff.  (Collisions are not uncommon.)  The lounge and outdoor dining terrace (achieved with the aid of retractable windows), however, afford ample light by which to dine, imbibe, and schmooze.

To whet our appetites and accompany our first courses, we selected a light, slightly effervescent Basque wine.  The refreshing frizzante crackle of the Ameztoi Txakoli Getariako 2009 ($42) invites comparison with its less complex trans-Iberian cousin Vinho Verde.  With light food, or by itself, it's a delightful summer wine.

Offering over 40 tapas selections, the menu also contains a variety of grilled fresh fish, shellfish, and meat items.  Our tasting menu consisted of four courses—each with its own wow factor—reflecting Chef Fujinaga's interpretation of a casual alfresco dining experience of seasonal specialities from Spain's Basque region.

Idiazabal Cheese Croquettes

Our first course comprised Idiazabal Cheese Croquettes (croquetas de queso Idiazabal) and Yellowfin Tuna Tartare "Push Pops" with Red Wine Caviar (tartare de atun en "push pop" con caviar de vino tinto).  The croquettes ($8) were beautiful creations that succeeded both in texture and in flavor.  Their smooth, creamy interior provided a sublime contrast to the exquisite crispness of the crust.  The cream-to-crunch sensation, together with the mild, subtle piquancy of the sheep's milk cheese, conspired to produce an incredibly delicious starter.  And with its bright, sparkling flavors, the wine was a perfect match.

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare "Push Pops," Red Wine Caviar

The "push pops" of yellowfin tuna, tomato, red wine caviar, anchovies, and pepper ($9) were a visually appealing and fun treat that tasted heavenly!  The combination of flavors and textures was as refreshingly playful as it was tasty.  We mused over whether the additional saltiness of plain caviar would have yielded a better balance of flavors against the sweetness of the tuna.  The jury is still out, but then, why should we try to fix something that isn't broken?

Yellowfin Tuna Crudo, Ajo Blanco, Chimichurri

Our second course consisted of Yellowfin Tuna Crudo, Ajo Blanco, Chimichurri (atun con ajo blanco y tximitxurri); Sea Scallop Crudo, Black Olives, Preserved Lemon (vieiras con aceitunas negras y limon en conserva); Octopus, Black Olives, Tomato Confit, Extra Virgin Olive Oil (pulpo con aceitunas negras, confit the tomate, aceite de olive extra virgin); and Spanish Mackerel, Escabèche-Style, Shallots, Chiles, Coriander Seeds (jurel en escabeche de chalotas, chiles y semillas de coriandro).

Yellowfin Tuna can never miss as long as it's fresh—and this was about as fresh as it gets.  When raw tuna is this good, the concern is that any addition, especially something as bright and complex as chimichurri, will mask the delicacy of the fish.  Such fears, however, would be unfounded with Chef Fujinaga's tuna crudo ($12).  The white garlic sauce and chimichurri added liveliness to the tuna's sweetness, rather than masking it.  This presentation could not have been more enjoyable.

Sea Scallop Crudo, Black Olives, Preserved Lemon

Based on the impeccable freshness of all the other seafood, the scallops ($12) were undoubtedly of similar stellar quality.  While allergies prevented us from attesting personally to these mollusks, we can vouch for their garnish.  The toasted, crumbled black olives were as tasty as they were creative.  The smokiness added by toasting is a brilliant enhancement of the olive's intrinsically rich, earthy flavor, and a perfect foil to a lemon concentrate.  This is something that would probably serve as a great garnish for swordfish or trout as well.

"Canned" seafood: Octopus (top) and Spanish Mackerel (bottom)

The Octopus ($8) and the Spanish Mackerel ($8) shared an innovative presentation: a sardine can, replete with an attached key.  The lid lifted off, however—no rolling back was necessary.

Octopus, Black Olives, Tomato Confit, Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Octopus wants to be the tofu of seafood; it's typically paired with a very interesting marinade or vinaigrette, with the idea that the bland meat will absorb the sauce, and the resulting whole will be greater than the sum of its parts.  Alas, neither of us has ever met an octopus preparation that realized that ideal, and this one was no exception.  No amount of marination seems to be able to penetrate this cephalopod's dense flesh.  Although the black olives and the confit of cherry tomatoes did their best to keep this octopus from foundering, we were left, ultimately, with a taste of marinade, followed by a stint of bland, rubbery mastication.

Spanish Mackerel, Escabèche-Style, Shallots, Chiles, Coriander Seeds

The "canned" Spanish Mackerel, on the other hand, was highly enjoyable.  It was yet another superb dish that melted in our mouths.  Not only did the accompanying shallots provide a pleasing contrast to the fish, they could also be used to enhance the flavor of the aforementioned octopus.

The third course came with more heft, and a wine to match.  Our second bottle, again Basque, was a Gorka Izagirre Txakoli Bizkaiko 2009 ($45).  While the card described it as having a medium body, we found this wine's body to be closer to full.  Perhaps we should have stayed with the previous, lighter wine.

Smoked Trout A La Plancha, Jamón Butter

Our penultimate course comprised Smoked Trout A La Plancha, Jamón Butter (trucha ahumada a la plancha, mantequilla de jamón); Slow-Braised Pork Belly, Baby Clams, Albariño Wine Sauce (tocino asado con almejas, salsa de viño albariño); and Heirloom Tomato Salad, Dandelion, Pedro Ximénez Sherry Vinegar, Mediterranean Sea Salt (ensalada de tomate de granja, vinagre pedro ximénez, sal del mediterraneo).

The trout ($12), grilled to a luscious golden-brown, shared the plate with a well-matched caviar garnish.  While I thoroughly enjoyed the smoky, spiciness of the fish along with its accompanying salmon roe, my Comestaccomplice found it good, but a bit salty.

Slow-Braised Pork Belly, Baby Clams, Albariño Wine Sauce

The divine Hampshire Pork Belly ($12) was one of the most ethereal dishes we'd enjoyed in a long time.  Fat is not commonly welcome as a garnish, let alone as the main event.  But the slice of meat comprised at least two-thirds fat, enveloping impossibly tender flesh.  The flavoring was extremely subtle—perhaps little more than the wine and a touch of salt.  How can something be so rich, yet so light and delicate at once?  The baby clams were especially succulent thanks to the pork juices.  Furthermore, their slight chewiness was a perfect foil to the adiposity of the pork belly.  This outrageously satisfying dish was easily our favorite of the evening.

Heirloom Tomato Salad, Dandelion, Pedro Ximénez Sherry Vinegar, Mediterranean Sea Salt

The generously sized Heirloom Tomato Salad ($10) was garden-fresh and dressed appropriately.  Its very simple preparation made it a perfect palate cleanser for all the complexity and richness that preceded it.  The salad achieved a delicate balance of flavors among the sweet tomatoes, the lightly acidic vinaigrette, and the subtly bitter dandelion greens.

Dessert: Leche Frita (top) and Piña Colada (bottom)

Our marvelous meal came to a sweet close with the fourth course comprising Piña Colada, Coconut Flan, Pineapple Salad, Rum Caramel (piña colada); and Fried Milk, Passion Fruit Reduction, Chocolate Ganache (leche frita).

Piña Colada, Coconut Flan, Pineapple Salad, Rum Caramel

Flan is a favorite dessert, and pineapple a favorite fruit.  Thus, there was little chance for this dish to fail.  Much of this meal showcased contrasting textures and flavors.  In this case, the Piña Colada ($9) played the smoothness of the custard against crunchiness of the pineapple.  The use of coconut afforded exceptional richness without the usual cloying sweetness.  Chef Fujinaga exhibited European restraint, delivering a highly refreshing dessert in which the various sweet nuances cavorted on the palate harmoniously with the acidity of the pineapple.

Fried Milk, Passion Fruit Reduction, Chocolate Ganache

The Leche Frita ($9) was a sweet bookend to the savory cheese croquettes with which we began.  Again, the texture was flawlessly smooth.  Furthermore, the two sauces were lovely complements—both visually and gustatorily—to the fried milk, as well as being pleasant contrasts to each other: tangy fruit versus velvety, rich chocolate.

It's highly unusual for any restaurant to thrill my palate so completely from start to finish.  It goes without saying that my Comestaccomplice and I enjoyed basking in the seasonal gastronomic delights of Bar Basque, and look forward to exploring the menu further.

The tapas dinner menu is served Sunday through Thursday from 4:00 P.M. till 10:00 P.M., and Friday and Saturday from 4:00 P.M. till 11:00 P.M.

Bar Basque

839 Sixth Avenue (between 29^th & 30^th Sts),
Midtown Manhattan (map)

(646) 600-7150

http://www.chinagrillmgt.com/
http://www.facebook.com/BarBasque
http://twitter.com/#!/barbasque

By train:   to 34 St-Herald Sq

By bus: M4, M5, M7, Q32

About Chef Yuhi Fujinaga

Dinner and a Movie

popbar: Pop Goes Gelato!

Pop quiz: Where can one find America's only gelato-on-a-stick?  Pop answer: popbar in Manhattan's West Village.  Combining innovation with the tradition of his native Italy, Reuben BenJehuda introduced the popular Florentine-inspired gelato concept to New York when he and Daniel Yaghoubi opened popbar in May, 2010.  Their handcrafted frozen treats make a great summer refresher or a delicious dessert.  I was invited to sample some recently.

The display case affords a large, colorful selection of popbar's 26 rotating flavors.  Not only are the pops attractive, fresh, and delicious, they're also kosher certified and made from natural ingredients only—no preservatives, gluten, artificial coloring, or artificial sweeteners are used.  PopGelato and yogurtPop bars ($4.50) contain hormone-free milk; popSorbetti ($3.75) contain over 70 percent real fruit and no added sugar.  Everything is made daily on the premises.

With the assistance of a "Popologist" at the custom bar, one can choose "poppings" and "dippings" to design a personal "myPop."  Poppings include chopped hazelnuts, almonds, and pistachios, as well as coconut shreds and chocolate sprinkles.  Dippings comprise melted Belgian chocolate—dark, milk, and white—into which a pop may be immersed, half-dipped, drizzled, or double-dipped.

For my tasting, I chose two popSorbetti and one popGelato.  My first selection was lemon, the flavor by which I gauge all sorbetti and ices.  Its frosty burst of citrus tang refreshed my palate without overwhelming it with unwelcome sweetness.  This icy lemon pop was a bracing antidote to a hot summer's day.

popSorbetti: Lemon (left) and Mango (right)

My second taste was of another fruit.  Much denser than the lemon, the mango popSorbetto had a mouthfeel similar to that of a frozen mango.  Every bite seemed to be filled with pulp.  Though its flavor and texture were true to the fruit, it was a bit sweeter than I'd normally like.

Pistachio popGelato popped with pistachios, half-dipped with dark chocolate

I hadn't any idea I'd saved the best for last.  My final sample was an exquisite pistachio popGelato, popped with chopped pistachios, and half-dipped with dark chocolate.  Wow!  The crunchiness of the nuts and chocolate combined harmoniously with the silkiness of the nutty gelato it enveloped.  Best of all, it wasn't too sweet.  It's hard to imagine a better frozen treat on a stick.

popbar

5 Carmine Street (SW corner Sixth Av),
West Village, Manhattan   (map)

(212) 255-4874

http://pop-bar.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/popbar/
http://twitter.com/popbar
https://foursquare.com/venue/2031577

By train:    to W 4 St (exit W 3 St)

By bus:  M5 (uptown), M20 (downtown), M8 (crosstown)

Video from Cooking Channel's Unique Sweets show

Milk Street Cafe Ready for Wall Street

There's another merger about to take place on Wall Street: Milk Street Cafe, a popular restaurant and corporate catering company in Boston's Financial District, launches its new venture in New York's Financial District tomorrow.  And Milk Street is going public, so to speak, by inviting everyone to attend the morning's Opening Bell ceremony for complimentary cookies and coffee from 10:00 till 11:00 in the Trump Building at 40 Wall Street.

After 30 years of success on Milk Street, founder Marc Epstein saw an opportunity to broker his gourmet fare on Wall Street.  His new restaurant opens one month after the SBA named him Massachusetts Small Business Person of the Year.  Marc and his wife, Beth, welcomed the press to a private preview earlier this month.  Having spent five years of my career in this building, I couldn't resist the opportunity for a "homecoming."

Marc Epstein talks about Milk Street Cafe's Wall Street opening

Like its Boston counterpart, the New York menu offers considerable diversity.  Unlike the Beantown location, however, the Gotham space is massive: a 23,000-square-foot food hall, featuring a 15,000-square-foot area comprising three kitchens.  Inspired by Eataly, the food hall concept affords a wide variety of stations and speciality counters to suit an extensive array of tastes.

Beth Epstein describes the new Milk Street Cafe

Milk Street Cafe's Food Hall

Milk Street Cafe's food hall features made-to-order breakfasts, made-from-scratch breads, desserts and pastries, a pasta bar, Asian specialties, a sushi bar, two create-your-own salad bars (one vegetarian, one not), homemade soups, a grill, a rotisserie, and a carving station.  The wide-ranging menu is the brainchild of Executive Chef Steven Mettle (formerly the Executive Chef at AIG).

Don't look for cheeseburgers here, however—everything is kosher.  All fish and produce are processed in the kitchen; vegetables are "locally sourced if possible, and organic when available," explained Chef Mettle.  Pictured below are a few tempting samples:

Bruschetta

Sweet Pea Risotto with English Pea Purée

The diverse culinary team includes chefs trained in Asian specialities.  I sampled some of the tasty Eastern comestibles of sushi chef Eugene Lee and wok chef Allen Ong.

Nigirizushi

Yellowtail and Salmon Sashimi

California Rolls

Makizushi

Hong Kong Pan-fried Noodles with Stir-fried Shiitake and Baby Shanghai Bok Choy & Vegetable Spring Roll with Sriracha Mayonnaise

Of course, something smooth had to accompany all that.  We were treated to three rich beverages.

Top to Bottom: Chocolate Chip Mocha Frappe, Strawberry-Banana Smoothie, Vanilla Bean Creme

"Our emphasis is on the best food and the best hospitality," says Marc Epstein, "We believe that customer service is paramount and we want to create the best experience possible."  Décor plays a major role in that experience.  The Epsteins spent a year-and-a-half renovating the existing Art Deco interior—vacated six months earlier by Mangia—and adding updated appointments to yield a style known as "Hollywood Regency."

Rather than displaying stock tickers and other distractions, the dining areas offer a relaxing escape for bulls and bears alike.  With a seating capacity of 150, "we wanted to create a respite," Beth Epstein told me.  To that end, a large mural by Shanee Epstein (Marc's sister) adorns the rear dining section.  Affectionately called the restaurant's "Monet," this work also serves as the backdrop for the company logo.

Shanee Epstein's "Monet"

Milk Street Cafe's opening will also introduce some innovations to the Big Apple.  A couple of firsts include sophisticated whirlpool Produce Soak sinks to wash fruits and vegetables, as well as FLAT table bases (from Australia) that use bungee cords to level and stabilize eating surfaces.  In addition, clerks will use nifty handheld checkout devices called Line Busters to expedite credit card payments.  Why can't other restaurants adopt this sort of technology?

I enjoyed my 40 Wall homecoming.  Things have changed for the better over the decades.  As I recall, back in the '80s, the only places for food in this building were the company cafeteria and 40 Below, in the basement.  I wish there had been a place like Milk Street Cafe.

Milk Street Cafe

40 Wall Street (between William & Broad Sts),
Financial District, Manhattan  (map)

(212) 542-3663

http://www.milkstreetcafe.com/
http://www.facebook.com/milkstreetnyc
http://twitter.com/#!/MilkStreetNYC

By train:    to Wall St
             or    to Broad St

By bus:  M5

Comestiblab:  Were you aware that 40 Wall Street was, very briefly, the world's tallest building?  When the 70-story tower opened in May, 1930, plans showed its 927 feet rising two feet higher than the soon-to-be-completed Chrysler Building.

Walter Chrysler had other plans, however.  His architect, William Van Alen, designed a stainless steel spire that was furtively assembled and bolted onto the crown of his skyscraper, rendering it the world's tallest at 1,048 feet—a title it surrendered just 11 months later to the Empire State Building.

Ninth Avenue International Food Festival

My friends at Hallo Berlin Express asked me to help spread the word about the Ninth Avenue International Food Festival this weekend on the avenue from 42^nd to 57^th Streets.  It's New York's oldest and largest annual food festival.  (I recall attending my first one about 1980.)

Ninth Avenue International Food Festival

42^nd to 57^th Street (Hell's Kitchen), Manhattan

May 14-15, 2011; 12:00 Noon till 5:00 P.M.
(Rain or shine)

(212) 581-7029

http://www.ninthavenuefoodfestival.com/

Save the Essex Street Market

For more than 70 years, Essex Street Market has been a source of comestibles for Manhattan's Lower East Side.  It was built in 1940 by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia to move pushcarts and vendors indoors, off the teeming streets.  Today, the market continues to house an eclectic mix of food purveyors within its historic walls.

Some of my Essex Street Market favorites include chocolates from Shoppe Roni~Sue (a 2010 Comestiblog Valentine's Day pick), and cheeses from Saxelby Cheesemongers and Formaggio Essex.  Sadly, I can no longer buy meats from a butcher shop that has operated here for four generations.  Jeffrey Ruhalter, who represented the market's last remaining original vendor, closed Jeffrey's Meat Market recently.

The fortunes and flavors of its vendors may have changed over the decades, but now Essex Street Market itself is in jeopardy.  In her blog, The Saxelby Almanac, Anne Saxelby reports that redevelopment plans call for the possibility of razing the historic building and moving the vendors elsewhere.  Can we afford to lose another Lower East Side icon?

Essex Street Market

120 Essex Street (NE corner Delancey St),
Lower East Side, Manhattan  (map)

By train: to Essex St;   to Delancey St
By bus: M9, M14A

For further information about Essex Street Market and how you can help, please visit the sites below:

http://www.savetheessexstreetmarket.org/
http://saxelbycheese.blogspot.com/
http://www.thepetitionsite.com/1/Save-The-Essex-Street-Market/

Exploration Dining at Albert Hall Tavern

As a food writer, I often receive requests to mention some product or event on my blog.  Happily, I'm able to manage most such solicitations with the single click of a mouse.  Occasionally, however, I find something very appealing in my electronic mailbox.  For instance, a recent invitation to a soirée that included gourmet food, artisanal beer, and a membership to a unique dining club, was a food blogging perquisite I couldn't resist.

The event, held at Hell's Kitchen's Albert Hall Tavern, featured eight tasting-sized courses, each paired with a different libation.  Its purpose was to introduce me and like-minded food enthusiasts to [exploration] dining, a members-only community that offers 50% discounts at some of New York's "secrets to be discovered."  Affording various additional benefits, the club "offers New Yorkers a reason to go out and explore their city," explained its founder and CEO Alex Bartosch.  Let the exploration begin …

Raw Bar: Malpaque (left) and Blue Point (right)

Let's kick off our dining exploration with a review of the evening's comestibles, beer, and tequila.  Tequila?  ¡Sí!  Our tasting commenced with a raw bar, comprising Malpaques and Blue Points (from the nearby Sea Breeze Fish Market), paired with a sample of Patrón Silver and a subsequent taste of the triple-distilled, slightly aged Gran Patrón Platinum.  (Were you aware that a co-founder of Paul Mitchell Systems—John Paul DeJoria—was also one of the founders of The Patrón Spirits Company?)  Produced from 100% Weber blue agave, both tequilas are smooth and sweet, and have a peppery finish.  With oysters, they're a potent alternative to Chablis, and a marvelous way to start an evening!

Screaming Oysters from Hell

Deep-fried oysters followed the raw variety.  The spicy-hot Screaming Oysters from Hell is one of Albert Hall Tavern's signature appetizers.  Executive chef Bill Seleno kindles an insidious fire with Sambal Oelek, and presents his infernal [s]hellfish atop slices of sweet pineapple to produce an underworldly flavor sensation.  If this is hell, I'm liable to commit many additional sins.  The mollusks were paired with Stone Pale Ale, Stone Brewing Company's "Southern California interpretation of the classic British pale ale style."  Light and hoppy, this ale kept the oysters' flames under control.

Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg

It was back to raw for our next course, Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg.  Though perhaps a bit salty, this dish was absolutely delicious.  (I should admit, however, to being very partial to tuna.)  It was accompanied by Estrella Galicia, a somewhat light lager, considered by some to be northern Spain's equivalent of Coors.  Regardless of comparisons with Rocky Mountain brews, it goes great with fish.

Deviled Braised Short Rib with Horseradish and Mustard Seed

Next, the Deviled Braised Short Rib with Horseradish and Mustard Seed added some meat to the menu.  Served on toast, its tangy and spicy flavors were enhanced by the sweetness of Brouwerij Bosteels's Tripel Karmeliet, a three-grain (wheat, oats, and barley) Belgian beer, brewed using a 17^th-century recipe.  Gentle on the palate, it adds body to any dish it accompanies.

Pickled Sardines with Fennel Pollen Meyer Lemon Cream

We returned to the sea for our next course.  To be honest, the Pickled Sardines with Fennel Pollen Meyer Lemon Cream was my least favorite dish of the evening.  I'm not fond of fennel, and I didn't find these sardines particularly compelling.  Overall, this sample from the bar menu wasn't bad, but I'd probably not order it on a future visit.  Nevertheless, Gaffel Kölsch from Cologne, Germany was the perfect foil for this preparation.  The Becker Brothers brew is rich, somewhat light, yet slightly bitter at the same time.  It's another fine beer to pair with fish.

Grilled Radicchio with Trifoline Cheese and Butternut Squash Carpaccio

Our salad arrived next.  I could readily taste the garlic in the Grilled Radicchio with Trifoline Cheese and Butternut Squash Carpaccio.  Chef Seleno's combination of the foregoing elements yielded a harmonious mix of flavors.  The sweetness of the butternut squash partnered well with that of La Brasserie de St-Sylvestre's Gavroche French Red Ale.  The fruity sweetness of this Bière sur Lie (beer on its lees) comes from a special top-fermenting yeast that produces a re-fermentation in the bottle.

Steamed Mussels with Charred Rosemary and Black Garlic

I should like to introduce the next course by mentioning that I typically have little inclination to order mussels.  But oh, those garlic aromas wafting from Chef Seleno's Steamed Mussels with Charred Rosemary and Black Garlic!  Perhaps owing to the dominance of the fermented (black) garlic, I found these mollusks to be exceptionally flavorful.  (I made good use of the crusty bread to finish whatever broth remained.)  Appropriately, they were paired with a German Pilsner that did not attempt to make any powerful statements.  Radeberger, a highly effervescent pale golden lager with a hoppy bitterness, is a very good palate cleanser that could also serve as a fine companion to German Würste.

Executive Chef Bill Seleno's Pièce de Résistance

Our final course, Roasted Suckling Pig with Maple Rum, was the evening's pièce de résistance.  It was tender, succulent, and flavorful—everything I'd expect from a suckling pig.  Any initial concerns over the sweetness of the maple rum were dispelled with my first bite.  As delicious as it was, however, I found that just the lightest sprinkle of salt added the perfect finishing touch.

Roasted Suckling Pig with Maple Rum

What beer to serve with such an exquisite dish?  Something with strong flavors of hops?  Should it be sweet or dry?  The answers appeared in a bottle of Hop Rod Rye from California's Bear Republic.  This hoppy Healdsburg IPA is brewed with 18% rye malt to give it a dry spiciness that is delicious with or without food.  What a marvelous beer with which to finish!

Albert Hall Tavern

508 Ninth Avenue (between 38^th & 39^th Sts),
Hell's Kitchen (Clinton), Manhattan

(646) 490-4803

http://www.alberthalltavern.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Albert-Hall-Tavern

By train:  to 42 St-Port Authority Bus Terminal

By bus: M11, M16, M104

* * *

http://www.explorationdining.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Exploration-Dining

Valentine's Day Chocolates for Your Sweetie 2011

If you remember my Valentine's Day post from 2009, you'll recall how much I enjoy Fauchon's chocolates, and how I lamented the closing of their Manhattan outpost.  With that in mind, you can undoubtedly imagine my surprise and delight to discover those familiar Parisian sweets at The Plaza Food Hall by Todd English.  Though The Plaza Hotel's subterranean food bazaar may be a far cry from the erstwhile salon de thé on Park Avenue, at least it's a local purveyor of Fauchon's wares.

The Plaza Food Hall by Todd English

The Plaza Hotel, Concourse Level
1 West 59^th Street (SW corner FIfth Av),
Midtown Manhattan

(212) 986-9260

http://theplazafoodhall.com/

By train: N,Q,R to 5 Av / 59 St
By bus: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, Q32

Barneys Holiday Windows 2010

Have a Foodie Holiday is the theme of this year's windows at Barneys New York on Madison Avenue.

We begin with a "revolutionary stew" of innovators and trail blazers:

Left to Right: James Beard, Jamie Oliver, Julia Child, Thomas Keller, and Dan Barber

More star chefs:

Left to Right: Anthony Bourdain, Daniel Boulud, Guy Fieri, Mario Batali, Bobby Flay, Emeril Lagasse, and Wolfgang Puck

The ladies:

Left to Right: Paula Deen, Rachel Ray, Ina Garten, Martha Stewart, Anne Burrell, Sandra Lee, and Lidia Bastianich

And end with enough coffee to make anyone illy:

Barneys New York

660 Madison Avenue (SW corner 61^st St),
East Side, Manhattan

http://www.barneys.com/

By train: N,Q,R to 5 Av / 59 St (exit NE corner 60^th St)
By bus:  M1, M2, M3, M4, Q32

Inside New York Eateries

Wijnanda Deroo's fascinating photographic exhibit Inside New York Eateries opened last week at Robert Mann Gallery in Chelsea.  With subjects ranging from plebeian to plush, her images offer a diverse exploration of notable Gotham restaurant interiors past and present.

Except for murals and other decorations, Deroo's photographs contain no human figures, thus allowing the viewer to focus on architecture and furnishings rather than on food and dining.  Moreover, this absence of people creates a unifying tension to her collective work.

Café des Artistes (left), Papaya Dog (right)

Many of the photographs evoke personal memories that span decades.  Who hasn't been to Yonah Schimmel's Knishery, or Lexington Candy Shop?  Or to The Russian Tea Room, 21, Grand Central Oyster Bar, and The Four Seasons?  I still recall pleasant luncheons at Jerry's erstwhile SoHo location, and delightful meals in the spectacular setting of the now-defunct Tavern on the Green.  I also remember romantic dinners at Café des Artistes that were followed by a horse-drawn carriage ride through the park.  My oldest recollection, however, is of the dingy Nom Wah Tea Parlor, an extant Chinatown fixture that looks just as it did half a century ago.

21 Club (left), Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant (right)

Finally, though I've never been to Lederhosen, Deroo's image—a corner table by a kitschy mural of Schloss Neuschwanstein amid the Bavarian countryside—has piqued my curiosity.

Robert Mann Gallery

210 Eleventh Avenue (between 24^th & 25^th Sts),
Floor 10,
Chelsea, Manhattan

(212) 989-7600

Dates:  9 December 2010 - 29 January 2011
Hours:  Tuesday - Saturday, 11:00 A.M. till 6:00 P.M.

Free.

http://www.robertmann.com/

By train:  C,E to 23 Street
By bus:  M23

Leña Got Its Mojo Working

Owing to my dislike of fast food and to my usual hurried pace when I'm in the Herald Square area, I seldom dine in this part of Manhattan.  All that has changed, however, with the recent opening of Leña, a pan-Latin grill that caters to budget-minded gourmets on the go.  Their fresh, seasonal, and delicious meals are prepared to order and served quickly.

For those who don't know that Leña (pronounced LEHN·yuh) means "firewood" in Spanish, a rack of logs along the top of the dining room wall should provide a good indication of the restaurant's preferred method of cooking.  Should that not suffice, however, a window to the wood-burning grill in the back ought to eliminate any doubt.

Having spent a dozen years working with the likes of Mario Batali, Eric Ripert, Jonathan Waxman, and Andre Balazs, Leña's executive chef-owner Ronny Abenhaim is no stranger to haute cuisine.  Noting the ubiquity of Mexican eateries in New York, he sought to offer an alternative that showcases flavors from a broader range of Latin American kitchens.  As popular examples, Ronny cites chimichurri (from Argentina) and his signature coconut rice (from the coastal region of his native Colombia).  Intended to suit busy schedules, his menu features wraps, salads, and plates that are designed to please discriminating palates.  Diners select one of four proteins—chicken, steak, fish, or tofu—to be combined with a choice of sauce, additions, or sides.  Ronny is fond of noting that one can dine at Leña for a month without having the same meal twice.

Grilled Chicken Plate with Coconut Rice and Tostones

On a recent luncheon, I ordered the Grilled Chicken Plate ($9.50) with an addition of the aforementioned coconut rice, and a side of tostones.  Overnight brining and subsequent wood-grilling result in a flavorful bird that delivers the right degree of smokiness.  It's hard to imagine a better partner to the savory chicken than the perfectly cooked coconut rice.  Every forkful of its subtle sweetness tastes almost like a dessert with the main course.

I was never fond of tostones until I tried the ones here.  Ronny prepares them by slicing green (unripe) plantains, then frying, smashing, and soaking them in a saline-garlic solution, and finally frying them again to make them crispy.  They're great with pico de gallo, and even better with mojo (pronounced MO·ho), an oil infused with roasted garlic cloves and chili flakes.

Yuca (or cassava) fries are another staple in Latin American cooking.  Their mild flavor and starchy texture make them a sine qua non among South Americans.  Conceivably, one could order them with the beef option to yield a Leñan variation of steak frites.

Grilled Chicken Salad

The Grilled Chicken Salad ($7.95) consisted of sliced chicken over lettuce, topped with pico de gallo.  Though my Comestaccomplice asked about adding guacamole, Ronny suggested she try queso fresco (a crumbly "fresh" cow's milk cheese) instead.  He described its slightly acidic flavor as being similar to, but milder than that of feta.  The upshot: my dining partner will not order that salad again without it!

Grilled Skirt Steak (left) and Tilapia (right)

While the chicken remains my favorite, the steak and fish are delicious as well.  The marinated tofu affords a good vegetarian option, but does not reflect my first choice.  Selecting the right sauce(s) to accompany the protein is, of course, a matter of taste.  Nevertheless, certain pairings are particularly successful.  To wit, chimichurri (a mixture of cilantro, parsley, garlic, chili flakes, olive oil, and rice vinegar) goes especially well with skirt steak, and brown butter partners very nicely with tilapia.  Although pico de gallo is considered de rigueur with chicken, I prefer Leña's smoky chili pepper sauce—a fiery blend of charred peppers and tomatoes—to accompany my pollo.  The pickled onions, also considered to be a sauce, are excellent as well.  On a future visit, I'd like to try the smoky domestic blue cheese dressing with my steak.

Clockwise (from top): Blue Cheese, Pico de Gallo, Smoky Chili Pepper, Chimichurri, Pickled Onions, Mojo; center: Leña's BBQ Sauce

The fresh-squeezed juices are delicious and thirst-quenching.  We'd requested the least sweet, and while lemonade fit the bill, we weren't so sure about the passion fruit.  But once again, it was a winner.  Its rich taste affords hints of sweetness initially, but delivers a refreshingly tart and slightly earthy finish.  Like the passion fruit, the tamarind is pleasingly tart as well.  Its wealth of antioxidants and other healthful properties—such as those that promote cardiac and digestive wellness—make it a top choice.

Alfajor (with a Dulce de Leche center)

To finish on a sweet note, a confection that has many variants in the Americas: alfajor (pronounced ull·fuh·HORR).  Based on the Argentinean variety, Leña's is a cookie sandwich in which two biscuits are joined together by a dulce de leche center, and coated with coconut flakes along the edge.  With the sweetness of a fig, it's pleasant without being cloying.  It's a sweet way to end any meal.

Leña provides a new, fresh option for breakfast and lunch in the Herald Square area.  The crowds say it all: offer people a delicious variety of fresh and wholesome food at bargain prices, serve it in a friendly and speedy manner, and customers will beat a path to your door.

Leña Latin Grill

34 West 35^th Street (between Fifth & Sixth Avs),
Midtown Manhattan

(646) 274-1995

Open Monday through Saturday, 7:00 A.M. till 5:00 P.M.

http://www.lenanyc.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/New-York-NY/Lena-Latin-Grill/

By train: B,D,F,M (IND),N,Q,R (BMT) to 34 St-Herald Sq
(exit IND at SE corner 35^th St)

By bus: M4, M5, Q32

Moving up the Pyramida

While experimenting with a new restaurant can have its risks, dining at the new Pyramida Grill is a pretty safe bet.  To be accurate, this Mediterranean Upper East Sider is new in location and scale only.  Co-owners and chefs Matthew Koven and Roger Ramkissoon wanted to "do something big" when, less than three months ago, they moved from their small take-out spot on 78^th Street into a spacious, full-service restaurant at the corner of 73^rd and Second Avenue.  Their new digs are inviting, as are the food, the service, and the prices.

Sticklers for quality, Matt and Roger pride themselves on using fresh, homemade ingredients only.  Their menu is the same for lunch and dinner and offers healthful items that suit appetites both large and small.  It features a wide array of starters, sandwiches, wraps, salads, and mains, as well as a number of vegetarian plates.  (A weekend brunch menu was introduced recently.)  Nothing I tried disappointed.

Pita bread with olive spread and sweet pea purée

In addition to familiar appetizers such as Hummus, Babaganoush, Tabouli, and Tzatziki, Pyramida tempted me with some unique diversions.  Pumpkin Gloria, for example, is a very popular starter made from calabaza, a type of sweet squash often called West Indian pumpkin.  Named for Roger's mother (the recipe's originator), the dish is seasoned with onion, garlic, and cumin—no additional sweetener is used.  Though available throughout the year, it seems custom-made for autumn.

Some of my other favorite starters include Baigan & Aloo (sautéed eggplant and potato), Sweet Pea Purée, and Curry Cabbage Salad with pistachio and pine nuts.  I've saved one of the best for last, however.  The New York Times described Pyramida's as "first-rate falafel."   The spherical deep-fried ground chickpeas—seasoned with garlic, cumin, and pepper—are extremely good indeed.  It seems The Gray Lady got it right.  The majority of starters and sides are priced $5.95 for a small portion; $8.50 for a medium one.  Should a single appetizer not suffice, any three salads or spreads may be combined to create a custom Appetizer Sampler for $11.95.

Falafel

Most of the main courses are priced under $20.  Though I tend to prefer fish, I find Pyramida's meat plates irresistible.  Subtle yet flavorful, the dishes don't require aggressive seasoning to taste good.  For instance, a major factor in the delectability of both the chicken and lamb Shish Kebab ($17.95 and $18.95, respectively) is that their spices aren't allowed to overwhelm the natural flavors of the meat.  The same is true of the Kofta ($17.95), a tasty minced beef preparation.  If I had to single out a favorite, however, it would be the exquisite Lamb Gyro ($16.95).  Succulent, well-prepared, and, yes, perfectly seasoned, this dish is simply delish!  But for those unable to settle on one particular meat, I'd recommend the Ultimate Meat Combo ($19.95).

Meat combo: Chicken, Lamb, and Kofta

Should it be necessary to "fire up your food," there's Roger's Homemade Hot Sauce—a mixture of Scotch bonnet (a relative of the habanero), garlic, lemons, carrots, pumpkin, and salt.  (The use of lemon is a welcome departure from the vinegar often found in other piquant sauces.)  "Tell us how hot you want it … on a scale of 1 to 10.  10 being burn your face."  While Roger's sauce may be quite hot and peppery, my visage managed to escape immolation.

There are very good side dishes as well.  For example, Pyramida's version of Peas & Carrots spices up an old workhorse with delicious results.  Furthermore, I found Matt and Roger's preparations of Lentil and Saffron Rice to be perfect.

Saffron and Lentil Rice

With Pyramida's beer-and-wine license just days away, I tried their famous Freshly Squeezed Lemonade ($4.50).  Zesty, frothy, refreshing, and not too sweet, it's no wonder New York Magazine named it "NY's best lemonade" three years in a row.  The recipe is simple: fresh-squeezed lemons, a little sugar, and water.  This is how lemonade should taste.

I'm not sure whether I'd saved enough room for dessert, but I indulged anyway.  Everything except the ice cream here is homemade.  With two types of baklava ($6.95 each), it was hard to choose.  Both the Classic (almonds and walnuts) and the Cashewlava (cashews only) delivered a satisfying finish without being overly sweet.  It may seem odd, but the latter's flavors reminded me of a baked brie.

Cashewlava (top), Classic Baklava (bottom)

Baked to order and served hot, the Outrageous Warm Chocolate Truffles ($8.95) are an encapsulation of a cacao lover's dream.  "No fork!  And don't squeeze too hard," insists Roger as he instructs me to use my fingers to roll each truffle in confectioner's sugar and then pop it into my mouth, whole.  My gentlest bite released a veritable chocolate explosion!  These truffles are what is meant by a melt-in-your-mouth dessert.

"Outrageous" Warm Chocolate Truffles

Though Pyramida's tasty homemade dishes are still available for take-out and (free) delivery, their expansion into a full-service restaurant is a welcome addition.  Matt and Roger's commitment to freshness and quality are evident in everything they prepare.  And with a grade of A from the New York City Department of Health, the new Pyramida is a pretty safe bet indeed.

Pyramida Grill

1402 Second Avenue (SE corner 73^rd Street),
Upper East Side, Manhattan

(212) 472-5855

http://pyramidanyc.com/

By train: 6 to 77 Street
By bus: M15, M72

Dinosaur Bar B Que—Jurassic Pork in Harlem

It was cold night in a marginal part of town.  The music inside the honky-tonk biker joint was loud, we were hungry, and the wait for a table seemed interminable.  After finally being seated and served, my first ravenous bite justified all the effort it had taken to reach that point.  This was real barbecue!  Although that took place some seven years ago, I still savor my gustatory memories of the original Dinosaur Bar B Que in Syracuse, New York.

In late 2004, roughly a year after my Syracuse feast, I welcomed the prospect of Dinosaur's new Manhattan venture with eager enthusiasm.  Early tepid reviews, however, delayed my initial visit to the Harlem branch by several years.  Should I have waited so long?

On a recent visit to the NYC Dino, we were greeted with the familiar 45-minute wait for an indoor table.  Fortunately, outdoor seating was on a first-come, first-served basis.  We promptly scored a private, full-sized picnic table outside on a lovely summer's evening.  Best of all, we avoided the deafening decibel levels of the dining room.  It almost appears as though the interior space had been manufactured to resemble the one in Syracuse—right down to the noise level.  One could say that Dinosaur really knows how to put the din in dining.  Just steps from the Cotton Club and Fairway, the contrived biker ambiance seems incongruous with its surroundings.  The clientele was composed of mainly yuppies; the few bikers we spied had ridden in under their own pedal propulsion.

Regardless of what critics may have said, the barbecue here is every bit as good as the upstate original, and exceeds the taste and quality of many a Southern pit.  With its $27.95 Sweetheart Deal for Two (a full rack of pork ribs, four homemade sides, and two pieces of honey hush cornbread), this Dino has soared to one of the top spots on my list of favorite barbecue joints.  The ribs are marinated for 24 hours with Dinosaur's Action Spice Rub and slow pit-smoked to perfection to yield a meaty, fall-off-the-bone tender rack.  A light glaze of Dino's original Bar-B-Q sauce adds the perfect finish.  Nevertheless, there's additional sauce at each table for those who like more.  Unlike many, this one is rich and flavorful without being a ketchup bomb.

A great rack: The Sweetheart Deal for Two

For our sides, we chose cole slaw, Creole potato salad, Bar-B-Que beans, and simmered collard greens (vegetarian!)—each very tasty.  The relish and Cajun spices in the potato salad added a welcome tang.  Of course, cornbread is de rigueur with barbecue.  Dino's honey hush beauties are moist, and have the right degree of graininess in their texture.  My only complaint is that we were limited to a mere two pieces with our Sweetheart Deal—two more would have been twice as sweet.

Though usually a wine drinker, I prefer suds with my 'cue.  As one might expect, Dinosaur has a well-chosen selection of beers on tap.  While my Comestaccomplice ordered the Blue Point Toasted Lager, I chose the Middle Ages Syracuse Pale Ale.  Less bitter and a bit smoother than mine, hers was the better brew for barbecue.

Dinosaur Bar B Que's are among the most satisfying ribs I've tried, and worth the heartburn.  Needless to say, a full rack and all its accompaniments are more than ample for two.  Why did I wait all these years to try this place?

Dinosaur Bar B Que

646 West 131^st Street (SE corner 12^th Av), Harlem, Manhattan

(212) 694-1777

http://www.DinosaurBarBQue.com/
http://www.facebook.com/DinosaurBBQ

By train: 1 to 125 Street (walk west on 125^th to 12^th Av)
By bus: M4, M104, Bx15

Taste of Times Square

The 17^th annual Taste of Times Square takes place today from 5:00 P.M. to 8:30 P.M. on West 46^th Street (between Broadway and Ninth Avenue) and on Broadway (between 45^th and 47^th Streets).  Over 50 area restaurants offer tastes of their signature dishes representing cuisines from around the globe.  Tickets may be purchased at $1 each and redeemed at the tasting tables.

Please visit the Times Square Alliance website for more details.

http://www.timessquarenyc.org/about_us/events_taste.html

Pommes Frites for a Slice of Belgium

A shop that sells nothing but fries?  Why not?  After all, french fried potatoes are among the most prominent staples of the American diet.

A little background before we taste, however.  Despite congressional notions to the contrary, the misnomered fries are not of French provenance.  Pommes frites (pronounced POHM·FREET; essentially, "fried potatoes"), or simply frites, are widely believed to have originated in Huy, a municipality within Belgium's Francophone Walloon region, in the province of Liège.  To substantiate that belief, Belgian historian Jo Gérard cites a document that traces the area's practice of frying sliced potatoes back to the late-17^th century.  The 1781 family manuscript relates that, for more than a century, the poor inhabitants of the Andenne district (which includes Huy) "allegedly had the custom of accompanying their meals with small fried fish, but when the [Meuse] river was frozen and they were unable to fish, they cut potatoes lengthwise and fried them in oil to accompany their meals."

Unfortunately, we've grown accustomed to engineered adaptations of the original Belgian fries by commercial producers seeking to capture that market.  While it may not be shocking to discover that fast-food and so-called family restaurants use frozen spuds, I was surprised to learn that celebrated chef Thomas Keller serves Sysco Systems frites at Bouchon.

Systems instead of Foods?  One can virtually taste the chemical stew from the company's own description:

"The manufacturing process used on Sysco Brand French Fries involves both water and oil blanching to assure uniform golden color, plus air drying to assure high potato solid content and a crisp outer shell, which extends holding time."

Do we still know how a simple fry tastes?  Happily, Pommes Frites in Manhattan's East Village offers us a reminder with the pure, earthy flavor of its authentic Belgian fries.  Here, hand-cut potatoes are fried twice: once to cook them through; and again to add color and texture.  The resulting golden-brown beauties are simultaneously crisp and silky.

Their thickness, incidentally, distinguishes Belgian pommes frites from the thinner variants known as pommes allumettes ("matchstick potatoes"), whose dimensions are similar to those of McDonald's fries.

Pommes Frites offers three serving sizes: regular ($4.50); large ($6.25); and double ($7.75).  Accompaniments include several condiments at no extra charge, as well as 25 sauces at $1 each.  I chose a componential variation of the especial: a cup of ketchup mixed with raw onion, and another of frites sauce (traditional European mayo).  In the end, however, the sauces tasted better together than they did separately.

Pommes Frites

123 Second Avenue (between E 7^th St & St Marks Pl), East Village, Manhattan

(212) 674-1234

http://www.pommesfrites.ws/ 

By train: 6 to Astor Place
By bus:  M8, M15

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestiblab:  They're not fried apples.  When referring to potatoes, pommes (literally, "apples") is a shortened form of pommes de terre ("apples of the earth," or "earth apples").  Terre comes from terra, the Latin word for earth.  (Many English words—such as terrene, terrain, terrace, and terrestrial—share this etymological origin.)  The word frites is the past participle of frire ("to fry").  While "pommes frites" is easier to say than "pommes de terre frites," it's easier yet to say "frites."  Of course, it's not all that hard to say "fries," either.

Foodbuzz Extravaganza at David Burke Townhouse

To celebrate its millionth post, Foodbuzz threw a bash fit for a millionaire on Tuesday, 12 May 2009, at davidburke townhouse on Manhattan's East Side.  Even this old fresser was not prepared for the unending barrage of delights with which I was besieged.  Never has my appetite been so helplessly overpowered.

If David Burke, one of this year's inductees into the James Beard Foundation's Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America and 2009 chef/innovator honoree by the Nation's Restaurant News MenuMasters was out to impress a bunch of foodists, he surely succeeded.  Chef Sylvain Delpique's variety of gustatory masterpieces—highlighted by mouthwatering hors d'œuvre—provided a culinary version of Plato's Retreat.  Needless to say, it was a marvelous evening of merrymaking with my fellow food bloggers.  Thanks a million, Foodbuzz!

How's this for openers?

Assorted dumplings

Scallop ceviche

Lobster flan in an eggshell

The Lobster Scramble was one of my favorites

Foie gras

Chicken Satay

The tuna tartare was my overall favorite

The sliders were cooked and seasoned to perfection

The Carving Station:

The salmon was moist, tender, and seasoned perfectly

Medium-rare: Just the way I like it!

Succulent roasted turkey

The sauce complemented the bird well

Prime rib of beef au jus—need I say more?

The Desserts:

Apple tartlets

Butterscotch panna cotta

Chocolate bouchons

Doughnut-like creme-filled beignets—Beighnuts?

The signature Cheesecake Lollipop Tree

Some of the people who made it possible:

David Burke

Sylvain Delpique, chef de cuisine

Ben Dehan, Foodbuzz CEO and founder

Foodbuzzers Ryan Stern, managing editor (left),
Devon O'Donell, director of partnerships (right)

davidburke townhouse

133 East 61^st Street (between Park & Lexington Avs), East Side, Manhattan

(212) 813-2121

http://www.davidburketownhouse.com/

By train: F,N,R,W to Lexington Av; 4,5,6 to 59 St
By bus: M1, M2, M3, M4 (uptown); M101, M102, M103 (downtown), Q32

The Patois of New York

For the time being, wistful diners who pass 255 Smith Street, Brooklyn will have to adapt to the patois of Little Italy to enjoy some of their Gallic favorites.  In January, Patois, a 1997 pioneer of Smith Street's restaurant row, closed its doors with the promise of reopening across the street in the near future.

Last Wednesday, meanwhile, the Mulberry Street incarnation made its debut.  Although the new digs are brighter and cleaner than the recently abandoned ones in Carroll Gardens, they somehow lack that je ne sais quoi.  Nevertheless, "the food is the same," I'm reassured.

Incidentally, Patois' prix fixe menu ($9.95 from 11:30 A.M. till 4:00 P.M.; $19.95 after that) represents an extraordinary value.

The future of the Manhattan location is uncertain, however.  Will the new Patois will continue to operate should indeed the newer one open at 254 Smith Street?  Stay tuned.  But in the meantime, bon appétit!

Patois

177 Mulberry Street (near Broome St), Little Italy, Manhattan

(212) 925-8157

By train:  6 to Spring Street; J,M,Z to Bowery
By bus:  M1, M103, B51

Eat: WFC Restaurant Showcase

On Thursday, 26 March, sample signature dishes from the World Financial Center's eclectic array of restaurants for $1 to $5.  Choices range "from mini-burgers and pork dumplings to silky gelato and crème brûlée."  Sounds good.

Toward a verdant goal, Brookfield Properties, the event's sponsor, will use biodegradable or compostable trays and flatware.

EAT: World Financial Center Restaurant Showcase

Winter Garden
220 Vesey Street, Lower Manhattan
Thursday, 26 March 2009, 11:00 A.M. to 2:30 P.M.

(212) 417-7000

http://www.artsworldfinancialcenter.com/cgi-bin/Go.cgi?q_id=842

By train: 2,3 (IRT) to Park Place; A,C,E (IND) to Chambers Street; PATH to World Trade Center

By bus: M20, M22, Downtown Connection

Valentine's Day Sweets for Your Sweetie

Since its American debut in New York, Fauchon had topped our list of favorite chocolatiers.  To enter the elegant Park Avenue salon de thé was to step into a little corner of Paris; to sample their ethereal wares was to taste a little piece of heaven.  Sadly, our special seller of sublime sweets shuttered its Manhattan outpost last year.  While Fauchon's closing may have left a cavity in the Big Apple, other fine purveyors around town have reduced the void with their superb chocolate fillings.

The Paris-based La Maison du Chocolat was our chocolatier of choice until the arrival of Fauchon.  The House of Chocolate's exquisitely crafted cacao creations—including the Dark Ganache with Two Vanillas (made with Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar and aromatic beans from Tahiti) and the masterly Dark Ganache Porcelana (a Maison du Chocolat exclusive, made with the Venezuelan Porcelana bean)—are available in various Stitches of Love Valentine's Day collections.  Prices for the assortments range from $15 (for a box of four) to $85 (for a box of 39).

While I enjoy the large selection at La Maison du Chocolat's premier boutique on the Upper East Side, I prefer the quiet and convenience of the new location on Wall Street.

Should you fancy French chocolates with a Brooklyn twist, you could look to our own (somewhat) local hero, Jacques Torres.  Originally from Bandol, France (a small, seaside resort town in the south of Provence), the self-proclaimed Mr. Chocolate established his first factory along with a diminutive retail shop in D.U.M.B.O. (the lowland between the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges—a former paper-box manufacturing area once known as Gairville).  His December, 2000 opening came at a time when that deserted part of Brooklyn had little else to recommend it.  My late wife and I were among Jacques Torres' first customers; I remain a devotee.

Jacques Torres' spaces are more approachable and his prices are more accessible than those of the upscale Parisian-styled boutiques.  And Mr. Chocolate seems to convey a greater sense of fun.  Valentine's Day treats like The Spanker ($12; "it's sure to leave a mark!"), Body Paint, Love Tonic, and Body Butter ($9 apiece; "don't make us give you instructions…") demonstrate a sort of playfulness not readily apparent at La Maison du Chocolat or the erstwhile Fauchon.  Of course, Jacques also offers various artisanal collections ranging from the seven-piece Heart Truffle Box ($10.50) to the 50-piece Champagne Kisses ($57.50) as well as the large, 34-piece heart-shaped box of bonbons ($49).  I opted to create my own assortment of 25 quasi-Valentine's Day chocolates ($33, please see below).  Chocolate was never so much fun!

My personal selection. (The hexagonal Liquid Caramel was my late wife's favorite.)

In addition to expanding his original D.U.M.B.O. space, Jacques Torres has opened shops on Hudson Street and on Amsterdam Avenue in Manhattan.  The newest store (and the first outside New York) is scheduled to open next month in Traverse City, Michigan.

 

Fauchon

http://www.fauchon.com/

 

La Maison du Chocolat (Manhattan)

1018 Madison Avenue (between 78^th & 79^th Sts), Upper East Side
(212) 744-7117

30 Rockefeller Center, Midtown
(212) 265-9404

63 Wall Street (near Hanover St), Financial District
(212) 952-1123

http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/

 

Jacques Torres

66 Water Street, D.U.M.B.O., Brooklyn
(718) 875-9772

350 Hudson Street (SE corner King St), South Village, Manhattan
(212) 414-2462

285 Amsterdam Avenue (between 73^rd & 74^th Sts), Upper West Side, Manhattan
(212) 787-3256

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

Cocoa-Loco at City Bakery

Ever try an Arabian Nights or Earl Grey Tea hot chocolate?  Baker-and-owner Maury Rubin tempts us with these and other daily flavors throughout February at his 17^th Annual City Bakery Hot Chocolate Festival.  Other creative con-cocoa-tions include the ever-popular Banana Peel, the Sunken Treasure, the Passion Fruit Cream, the Hot Chocolate A-Go Go, and, on Valentine's Day, the Love Potion.  Since City Bakery hasn't a license to serve alcohol, it'll be interesting to taste the Beer and Bourbon cocoas.  The festival culminates with a surprise finale on the 28^th.

The City Bakery

3 West 18^th Street (near Fifth Av), Flatiron District, Manhattan

(212) 366-1414

http://www.hotchocolatefestival.com/

By train: 4,5,6 (IRT),N,Q,R,W (BMT),F,V (IND),PATH to 14^th Street

By bus: M1, M2, M3, M5, M6, M7

Angon-izing Over a Decision

Because it had been a while since my last visit to Curry Row in the East Village, I hadn't kept apace with the restaurant situation there.  As we all know, times are tough.  Nowhere is the flagging economy more evident than in the mostly empty Indian eateries on East 6^th Street.  We were surprised to find that, contrary to its takeout menu's stated hours, Angon was open on a Monday.  I wasn't certain whether I'd eaten there previously, but decided to give it a (possibly second) try.

As with many restaurants on this block, Angon's dining room is a few steps down from street-level.  The "Indian Culinary Den" is attractive, tasteful, and comfortable.  We were welcomed warmly and enthusiastically.  Our server was solicitous, without being intrusive—a task facilitated by our being the only guests.

I admit to being a sucker for sampler platters—especially when feeling particularly indecisive or unfamiliar with a restaurant's strengths (and weaknesses).  Maybe it was a combination thereof that led us to order the ultimate dinner-for-the-irresolute.

Assorted Appetizers

To begin, we selected the Assorted Appetizers ($10.95), a small sampling—e.g., samosa, pakora, and such—of their popular starters.  Unfortunately, the plate was overwhelmed by deep-fried, shredded vegetables, to conceal, perhaps, the dearth of more substantial items.  Were the appetizers tasty?  Yes, albeit each was a bit dry.  We were off to an adequate start.

The Garlic Nan ($3.50) sounded too interesting to pass up.  It was not quite garlicky enough for my tastes, but I found it preferable to plain Nan.

For the main course, we split the Mixed Grill Combo Platter ($19.95), a representative selection of Angon's tandoori specialities.  (It's well-suited for sharing by two.)  The Chicken Tandoori samples were nicely seasoned, but alas, slightly overcooked.  On the other hand, the Fish Tikka (salmon) and the Kababs were moist, tender, and tasty.  The second course was quite an improvement over the starter.

Mixed Grill Combo Platter

In sum, the sampler platters afforded a good overview of Angon's offerings.  Having favored the salmon, I'd like to pursue that as an option on my next visit.

 

Angon on the Sixth

320 East 6^th Street (between First & Second Avs), East Village, Manhattan

(212) 260-8229

http://www.angon.biz/

By train: 6 to Astor Place; F,V to 2 Avenue
By bus: M15, M8

Norwegian Seamen and Salmon

Sjømannskirken, the Norwegian Seamen's Church, describes its BusinessLunsj, or business lunch, as "one of New York's best-kept secrets."  On the first Wednesday of each month—from September to June—the church presents an all-you-can-eat luncheon buffet featuring a delicious smorgossbord, a Norwegian hot meal, hot and cold beverages, and dessert.  All this for $20 (the price was increased by $2 this season).

If you're a salmon aficionado, this monthly event is practically a requirement.  In addition to its three cold, smoked preparations, the fish is also presented warm—in a soup and as a baked fillet.  What a delicious way to add Omega-3 fatty acids to your diet!

The dining room's dress code is casual; attire ranges from jeans to suits.  Come as you are, but do so early to secure a seat—these business luncheons can become somewhat crowded.

The Norwegian Seamen's Church

317 East 52^nd Street (between First & Second Avs), Turtle Bay, Manhattan

Business Lunch:  First Wednesday, 12:00 Noon to 2:00 P.M., September to June

(212) 319-0370

http://www.sjomannskirken.no/newyork

By train: E,V to Lexington Av/53 St (exit at Third Av)
By bus: M15, M27, M50

Gravlaks and Kaldrøkt laks (cold-smoked salmon)

Varmrøkt laks (warm-smoked salmon, peppered)—my overall favorite!

Brunost (center-left) is a sweet, semi-firm brown cheese

Foodbuzz Spices it up

One week ago, on 13 October, Foodbuzz, Inc. officially inaugurated its food blogger community.  Amid all the buzz, featured publishers from New York and New Jersey were invited to attend a dinner in their honor at Spice Market this past Saturday.  What a perfect opportunity to indulge in two of my favorite pleasures: talking about food and, better yet, consuming it.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten's interpretation of Asian street foods brings together the flavors Vietnam, Thailand, and China.  Dishes are served family-style to allow sharing.  Everything I tasted ranged from very good to excellent.  The red curried duck was a standout.

Pictured below are the menu and all the dishes thereon presented in order:

Shrimp Tod Mon Pla: slightly too salty

Chili-Rubbed Beef Skewers: succulent, delicious; fine dipping sauce

Pork Satay with Pickled Vegetables: highly delectable; overly subtle pickled vegetables

Spiced Chicken Samosas: perfectly prepared, flaky, delicious

Mango Salad, Cherry Tomatoes, and Crystallized Tamarind:
refreshing; a good complement to the other dishes

Cod with Malaysian Chili Sauce, Thai Basil: tangy, well-prepared

Red Curried Duck: seductively hot; the best dish of the evening

Char-Grilled Chicken, Kumquat Lemongrass Dressing: dominant
lemongrass influences

Chili-Garlic Egg Noodles, Seared Shrimp, and Star Anise:
unmistakable aromas of star anise

Snap Peas with Shiitake Mushrooms and Waterchestnuts:
fresh flavors and perfect consistency

Ovaltine Kulfi, Caramelized Banana and Spiced Milk Chocolate Sauce: rich, creamy, not too sweet, sinful

Assorted Cookies: a delightful ending

Special thanks to Foodbuzz's Ryan Stern and Devon O'Donnell, who flew in from San Francisco, and to Stacey Caron (Stacey Snacks) for organizing this spicy soirée.  Greetings also to my fellow foodbuzzers who made the evening so enjoyable.

Ryan, Stacey, and Devon

Spice Market

403 West 13^th Street (NW corner Ninth Av), Meatpacking District, Manhattan

(212) 675-2322

http://www.spicemarketnewyork.com/

By train: A,C,E (IND) to 14^th St; L (BMT) to 8^th Av
By bus: M11, M14A, M14D

Rocket Lunch

As we face an uncertain economic future, many of us are dining out less or, perhaps, not at all.  Most of us haven't the temerity to take part in a $440,000 California retreat during a financial crisis.  Instead, we might take refuge in comfort foods and surroundings that evoke memories of a simpler time.

When I seek a reliable collation seasoned with a dash of nostalgia—whether in New York or out of town—a Johnny Rockets is a welcome sight.  Although this retro-diner chain was launched in Los Angeles in 1986, my initiation came several years later during a business trip to Atlanta.  The first Manhattan branch opened in the West Village some ten years ago.  It affords a good, convenient luncheon spot near NYU.  Another Manhattan location was since added on the East Side.

Johnny Rockets' décor is nearly identical throughout the chain.  The tables, chairs, tabletop jukeboxes, signs, posters, and other trappings are reminiscent of a '50s malt shop.  The coeval habiliments of the staff round out the motif.  Some may consider this sort of theme to be clichéd, but to those of us who remember when, it represents a vestige of happy days long ago.

The food quality is fairly consistent as one might expect from a menu dominated by burgers, sandwiches, fries, shakes, and malts.  The Tuna Salad Sandwich is my favorite and seldom disappoints.  Unlike many others I've tried, this one doesn't drown the white albacore in a sea of mayonnaise.  Normally, a sandwich and a cup of tea satisfy my midday appetite.  At Johnny Rockets, however, I try to save room for a slice of their delicious apple pie.  Made fresh daily, it's not overly sweet and has a delightfully flaky crust.  Although it's available with cheddar cheese or à la mode, I prefer it plain.  Yum!

While the menus of the two Manhattan Johnny Rockets list the same items, the midtown version comes with uptown prices.  For instance, in the Village, my tuna sandwich and apple pie cost $5.60 and $1.50, respectively; each costs 40 cents more uptown.  In fact, everything (except the jukebox) is more expensive at the East Side location.  Nevertheless, the pricier Johnny Rockets is busier than its downtown cousin.

 

Johnny Rockets

West Village:

42 East 8^th Street (SW corner Greene St), Manhattan

(212) 253-8175

By train: R,W to 8^th Street
By bus: M2, M3, M5 to University Place

East Side:

930 Third Avenue (SW corner 56^th St), Manhattan

(212) 813-0003

By train: E,V to Lexington Av/53 St (exit at Third Av)
By bus: M31, M57, M98, M101, M102, M103

Other locations

http://www.johnnyrockets.com/

The Tang of Chinatown

On most Monday evenings, one could find my late wife and me seated at table A1—in the corner, by the window—at Mr. Tang's in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn.  We had been regulars at the Chinese mainstay on Third Avenue long before the emergence of the Chinatown in nearby Sunset Park.  As the foregoing community grew, it siphoned away many of the old customers.  Nevertheless, our loyalties remained steadfastly with Mr. Tang.  We had found a good thing, and we stuck with it.

Having tried a number of items on the menu over the years, we refined our selection to the point at which we'd simply order "the usual."  Our preferences were well-known and required no explanation—favorite munchies and condiments arrived automatically, as did our drinks and dishes.  On the Ides of March last year, however, all that came to an end.  New building ownership and the ensuing rent hike led to the dining room's shuttering, leaving behind only the take-out fragment of this once large and bustling Bay Ridge institution.

Fortunately, Mr. Tang had opened a branch in Manhattan's "Old Chinatown" several years earlier.  Initially, the restaurant de-emphasized the Mr. Tang brand in favor of its address:  50 Mott Street.  Over time, however, the name evolved to Mr. Tang of Mott Street, its present designation.  It's nearly impossible to recapture the enchantment of our Monday evenings in Bay Ridge—the present dining room is less cozy; the longtime, familiar staff is absent; and alcoholic beverages are limited to beer and wine.  Though my Zombie (a potent concoction of various rums and fruit juices) is no longer available, I can still enjoy, mirabile dictu, "the usual."

The meal begins with Mustard Green Soup with pork and tofu ($8.95 for two).  The server always remembers to ask the kitchen to add extra scallions, garlic, and ginger.  It's a very tasty and healthful soup.  Interestingly, it was introduced to us during an early visit to Mott Street, when my wife was under the weather.  Our waiter recommended the soup as being restorative and easily digested.  We enjoyed it so much that we incorporated it into our Monday menu in Brooklyn.

On a recent visit, I was presented with a sample of the House soup—a broth with slivers of beef and a slice of lotus root.  The lotus added an unmistakable hint of sweetness.  It's not bad, but not compelling enough to displace the Mustard Green soup.

The soup is followed by Chinese Spinach with Minced Garlic ($7.95).  The infusion of garlic complements the vegetable's flavors perfectly.  This dish is best enjoyed over rice, which absorbs the juices of the garlicky spinach nicely.

And then comes the pièce de résistance: Crispy Fried Chicken, Cantonese style ($10.95 half; $21.90 whole).  I have a passion for exceptional fried chicken.  Sure, there's Charles Gabriel's delicious Southern-style, or Forte Baden Baden's and Bon Chon's tong dak.  But when Mr. Tang gets it right, there's none better.  Served (upon request) with jiao yen (literally, "spiced salt," a blend of salt and Sichuan pepper) and a garlic-ginger dipping oil, the moist, golden-brown, crispy-skinned bird is a taste of fried chicken nirvana.  Chicken prepared in this fashion is rare outside Chinatown.

Our "usual" was enough to sate the two of us.  The meal typically concluded with both almond and fortune cookies, as well as orange wedges.  On my most recent visit, Mr. Tang added a nice touch:  a slice of moon cake to celebrate the Mid-Autumn, or Moon, Festival.

 

While Mr. Tang of Mott Street can never equal the memories of Monday evenings in Bay Ridge, I'm delighted that it's a place where I can still savor my old favorites.

Mr. Tang of Mott Street

50 Mott Street (SE corner Bayard St), Chinatown, Manhattan

(212) 233-8898
(212) 233-8963

By train: J,M,Z,N,Q,R,W (BMT),6 (IRT) to Canal Street
By bus: M1, M103, B51

A Slice of Bubby's Pie Company

Casual, homey, and family-friendly, Bubby's Pie Company has been serving comfort food in TriBeCa for nearly two decades.  It's a reliable neighborhood spot for breakfast, lunch, brunch, late-afternoon collations, and dinner.  The place mats, laden with food-trivia, make good conversation boosters and provide stimulating fodder for cocktail party persiflage.  I've always considered the fare to be good, but unexceptional.  A recent dinner changed my mind, however.  The atmosphere was still as welcoming as ever, but the food was better than I remembered it to be.

In an attempt to cling to the last vestiges of warm weather, I started the meal with a better-than-average chilled gazpacho ($6 a cup; $8 a bowl).  It was fresh, chunky, and just spicy enough.  The homemade rolls provided a good accompaniment to the soup.

As my main course, I chose the salmon special, encrusted in pink and green peppercorns, with white wine and lemon butter ($24).  The moist and tender fish was expertly prepared with spices that enhanced its flavor without overwhelming or masking it.  Many restaurants of this genre tend to massacre their vegetables.  Not so here, however, with the fresh, grilled asparagus and rice pilaf that filled the rest of the plate.

One aspect of the dinner that was not so well crafted as on previous visits was the Margarita.  I had once considered it to be one of the area's best, but on this occasion, the bartender's sparing use of tequila rendered it merely average.

A more significant complaint, however, concerns the service.  It was friendly enough, but the timing was inept.  To wit, I endured a lengthy wait for my soup, yet I had barely started my starter when the main course arrived.  It should have been abundantly obvious that I was far from ready to receive my next course.  Nevertheless, there it was—served to me with utter nonchalance and without apology.  Regrettably, I had to send it back to the kitchen.  To make matters worse, my drink was served long after it had been ordered.  During extraordinarily busy times, one might excuse this, but with the dining room not, in fact, particularly crowded, such a lapse seemed inexcusable.

It's ironic that I've dined at Bubby's Pie Company many times since its opening in 1990, yet I can't remember trying their tantalizing pies.

Bubby's Pie Company

120 Hudson Street (NE corner N. Moore St), TriBeCa, Manhattan

(212) 219-0666

http://www.bubbys.com/

By train: 1 to Franklin Street
By bus: M20

Flaunt your pie-baking prowess or sample that of others at Bubby's fifth annual Brooklyn Pie Social, this Sunday, 28 September, 2008, from 12:00 Noon to 3:00 P.M., 1 Main Street, DUMBO, Brooklyn.

Spring Has Arrived at Ten Ren

Many of us drink Oolong tea (a variety of which is typically served in Chinese restaurants) more for its health benefits than for its taste.  Let's face it, some of these teas are banal at best.  Fortunately, not all are created equal.

About this time every year, Ten Ren—a worldwide purveyor of fine Chinese teas—offers its special Spring Tea, a selection of premium Green Oolong from the year's spring harvest.  Tea connoisseurs anticipate the arrival of these "high mountain" teas with a level of enthusiasm comparable to that of oenophiles awaiting the release of a coveted vintage.  Oolong leaves harvested in winter and spring are superior to those gathered during other times of the year.  The fresh, floral aromas enhance the rich, smooth flavors enjoyed with every sip.  Rather than leaving a bitter aftertaste (as is often the case with green teas), Spring Tea imparts a pleasant, subtly sweet finish. 

Once a year, I treat myself to some of this exceptional tea.  Ten Ren offers samples readily; the 2008 vintage tastes might-tea fine.  My budget directed me from the "number one" tea ($170 a pound) to the "number three" tea (a mere $35 a pound).  (It wasn't clear what happened to the selection in between.)  Regardless of price, it is among the finest Chinese teas I've tasted.  Here's to Spring!

 

Ten Ren Tea

75 Mott Street (between Canal & Bayard Sts), Chinatown, Manhattan

(212) 349-2286

Other locations

http://www.tenren.com/

By train: J,M,Z,N,Q,R,W (BMT),6 (IRT) to Canal Street
By bus:  M1, M103, B51

Unsung Heroes of 9/11

It was a place we saw every day.  The corridors within its concourse were no less familiar than the blocks of our own neighborhood in Brooklyn.  My office was across the street; my late wife's was a few blocks away.  We not only worked in the area, we played there as well.  Lower Manhattan was our "other neighborhood."  To those of us whose daily activities were interwoven with the World Trade Center, the anniversary of the 9/11 terrorist attacks is particularly poignant.  Please allow me to share one personal aspect of it with you.

After years of fine-tuning, our schedules had begun to run like clockwork.  As with the World Trade Center itself, we took for granted the various elements of our daily routines.  Every weekday morning, for roughly a decade, my wife and I ate breakfast at Essex World Coffee Shop on Liberty Street, opposite the southeast entrance to the World Trade Center.  During that time, we had grown fond of the restaurant, its owners, and its staff.

Johnny Costalas

Brothers Johnny and Jimmy Costalas, co-owners of Essex World, greeted us warmly every morning and made certain everything was all right.  Jimmy's son, Steve, was an ever-friendly presence as well.   During the hockey season, nary a day went by without some sort of discussion of the Rangers.  His  energetic cheerfulness helped brighten our mornings.  Eventually, Steve left Essex World to take over the operation of Trinity Deli, one of the family's other businesses, around the corner.

Jimmy and Steve Costalas

The Costalases employed a loyal staff whom they treated like family members.  Benny (recently deceased, upon whose customary salutation, "Good morning, Governor," I'd come to depend), along with Elio, and Mohammed, typically manned the back counter.  Since our breakfast orders seldom varied, they were issued tacitly after a while.  A simple nod or wave as I approached was enough to invoke the familiar call to the grill: "Let me get a fried egg on whole wheat, down, two times to stay!"  It may sound silly, but the convenience of not having to ponder a breakfast menu relieved some of the stress at the start of the day.

And, of course, there were the other regular customers.  Though we didn't know most of them by name, we knew them by their habits and mannerisms.  There was little interaction with our fellow breakfasters, but their faces and idiosyncrasies were reassuringly familiar somehow.

In 1997, Essex World was closed several months for renovation and reopened as The Food Exchange.  The new interior had a softer décor and a homier ambiance than the industrial, fast-food atmosphere that preceded it.  Fixed tables and hard bench seats gave way to more comfortable, movable furniture.  The gussying up didn't end there—the guys behind the counter now sported dress shirts and ties!  The redecoration was welcome, but, more important, our breakfast place was back.

No matter what sort of day lay ahead, this was always our reliable jump-start.  Then, on that clear, crisp, sunny morning of September 11, 2001, all that came crashing to a halt.  The widespread devastation that resulted from the terrorist attacks left us wondering whether our friends at The Food Exchange had survived.  Several months later, my wife's chance meeting with Johnny on the street (as he was helping his staff find work in the area) allayed our fears.  Everyone had escaped safely.

"Someone was looking out for us that day," recalls Vivia Costalas Amalfitano, Steve's sister.  Those who remember the traffic patterns around the World Trade Center would strain to recall the presence of tractor-trailers on Liberty Street.  On that fateful day, however, after the first tower had been hit, one had stopped directly in front of the restaurant.  Despite Johnny's entreaties to move it, the driver simply deserted his truck right there.  It was a fortunate happenstance, as things turned out.  When the debris began to fall, Johnny pulled down the steel security gate at the front entrance.  The abandoned truck absorbed much of the impact and the closed gate further reduced the effects of the towers' ultimate collapse, thus allowing everyone to escape safely through the back onto Cedar Street.  Sadly, many of the regular customers who were at work in the towers weren't so fortunate.

Vivia describes the area around Ground Zero following 9/11 as, "surreal, like a scene out of a movie."  "Debris was at the foot of the [Liberty Plaza] Park.  And the smell was horrific."  Returning there required presenting exhaustive documentation—passport, driver's license, lease, etc.—at several checkpoints, from Canal Street southward.  For roughly a month and a half, the space inside Food Exchange was used for triage.  During that time, Johnny was there helping out every day.

Several weeks after my wife's fortuitous meeting, it was my turn.  Johnny spotted me on a subway platform, charged over, and threw his arms around me.  Amid our joyous reunion, I asked whether he had plans to reopen.  His response came with the sad resignation that, since he was well into his 60s, it was probably too late for him to start over.  But fortunately, the story doesn't end there.

Innumerable obstacles would have to be overcome before the restaurant could ever reopen.  The red tape seemed endless.  "Help was nothing," recalls Vivia.  Incredibly, it would take more than two years for phone service to be restored.  But, as the old saying goes, when the going gets tough …

Fast-forward to October, 2003.  Clearly, the tough had got going.  After the ashes and rubble had been cleared, a new Essex World Café emerged under the new corporate name, Survivors, Inc.  "I had to do it for Uncle Johnny," explains Vivia.  Over the course of the four decades leading up to 9/11, her uncle and her father had overseen every iteration of Essex World—11 in all, beginning with the original Essex Coffee Shop at 7 Dey Street.  Most of the familiar faces behind the counter had returned as well.  For some, however, the memories of 9/11 were too devastating.  Vivia's brother, Steve, left for Colorado in November, 2001; he returned home to New York just two months ago.

Ground Zero continues to draw a large number of visitors.  "How many tourists really get it?" muses Vivia.  "This was our neighborhood.  I did everything down here but food shop."  "This was my focal point," adds Steve, who reminisces about doing all his Christmas shopping in the World Trade Center concourse.

And so it was for me and my late wife.  This was a neighborhood to us as well.  The World Trade Center comprised a large part of our daily mosaic.  It was a place we knew intimately.  Occasionally, my mind's eye still takes me on a virtual tour of the concourse.

Though my life has been altered irrevocably by the terrorist attacks, I often find comfort in revisiting places that hold memories of the halcyon days preceding 9/11.  Essex World represents such a place to me.  And despite the trauma suffered by the Costalases and their staff—or perhaps in spite of it—the restaurant salutes those more innocent times with their take-out menu.  On it appears the skyline—our neighborhood—towers intact.  Sadly, the fortitude and determination to repair and reopen is often untold, and taken for granted.  The Costalases represent some of the unsung heroes of 9/11.

Essex World Café

112 Liberty Street (near Trinity Place), Financial District, Manhattan

(212) 791-9900

http://www.essexworldcafe.com/

By train: 4,5 (IRT),J,Z (BMT) to Fulton Street; A,C (IND) to Broadway-Nassau
By bus: M1, M6

 

For more information, as well as additional accounts by members of the Essex World family, please visit the Tribute WTC Visitor Center at 120 Liberty Street.

Crazy Eights Eats

Feeling your eights?  They're offering dim sum at the reduced price of $1.50 today at 88 Palace in Chinatown to celebrate 8/8/08 and the start of the Olympic games.

88 Palace

88 East Broadway (under the Manhattan Bridge), LES / Chinatown, Manhattan

(212) 941-8886

By train: F to East Broadway
By bus: M9, M15, M22

Comfort Diner's got the Shakes

If you like your ice cream drinks shaken, not stirred, head over to one of Ira Freehof's Comfort Diners to help celebrate their twelfth annual August Milkshake Madness.  A different flavor is featured every day this month, including such tantalizing choices as Peach Strawberry, Dulce de Leche, Mango Madness, Lemon Chiffon, and Key Lime.  Presley fans can rattle and roll with an Elvis Shake (vanilla ice cream, banana, and peanut butter, all shook up) on August 16, the anniversary of The King's death in 1977.

 

Comfort Diner

Midtown East:

214 East 45^th Street (near Third Av), Manhattan

(212) 867-4555

By train: 4,5,6,7,S to 42^nd St-Grand Central
By bus: M101,M102,M103, M98 (uptown), M15 (downtown), M27, M50 (crosstown)

Flatiron District:

25 West 23^rd Street (near Fifth Av & Broadway), Manhattan

(212) 741-1010

By train: N,R,W (BMT),F,V (IND),6 (IRT), PATH to 23^rd Street
By bus: M2, M3, M5, M6, M7, M23

http://www.comfortdiner.com/

Lab Report del Gelato

Back in the late 1980s, before the arrival of its boutique hotels and other conspicuous excesses, I worked in Manhattan's SoHo district.  On hot afternoons, I'd often stroll to a tiny place on Broome Street for a gelato or sorbet.  The flavors were hit-and-miss, but when there was a hit, what a hit it was!  The little shop was called Ciao Bella.  Jon Snyder founded his ice cream business in 1984 and sold it roughly five years later.  In August, 2002, after furthering his education and changing careers, Mr. Snyder returned to making gelato and sorbet at his new venture, il Laboratorio del Gelato, on the Lower East Side.  Not surprisingly, this iteration shares many similarities with his previous one.

At the time of Ciao Bella's inception, SoHo was evolving into a chic, trendy neighborhood.  The opening of the gelateria on Orchard Street came amid the Lower East Side's emergence as a fashionable part of town.  (The new boutique Blue Moon Hotel across the street affords a glimpse into the area's recent transformation.)  Nevertheless, il Laboratorio's laboratory-like setting is reminiscent of the spare surroundings of the early Ciao Bella.  As with its SoHo predecessor, one is left with the unmistakable impression that retail sales are incidental to the business.  Indeed, Mr. Snyder develops his frozen wares primarily for restaurants and caterers.

 

Another similarity between the two generations of Mr. Snyder's shops has to do with flavors.  Of il Laboratorio's 20 daily offerings, some succeed, some don't.  But again, when there's a success, what a success it is!  It's hard to imagine a tastier sorbet than the Black Plum I tried recently.  The essence of the fruit seemed to burst as it reached my tongue.  Delicious!

The prices are a relative bargain when compared with those found in the West Village.  Cones and cups: small ($3.25); medium ($4.50); large ($5.75); 18-ounce container ($8.25).

il Laboratorio del Gelato

95 Orchard Street (bet. Broome & Delancey Sts), Lower East Side, Manhattan

(212) 343-9922

http://www.laboratoriodelgelato.com/

By train: F (IND) to Delancey St; J,M,Z (BMT) to Essex St
By bus: M15

The Dumpling House That Vanessa Rebuilt

It had been a while since my last visit to the Dumpling House.  Frankly, the dingy, cramped quarters always made this a place for times I was in a hurry and needed food fast but didn't want fast food.  Imagine my surprise when I returned recently.  The small eatery had seemingly doubled its size, undergone complete redecoration, and prefixed Vanessa's to its name.  For a moment, I thought I was on the wrong block!

Often, expansions come at the expense of something else.  The quality of the food or service (or both) may decline or the price of a meal may increase substantially.  Is the food still good?  Is Dumpling House still one of New York's best bargains?  Happily, the answer to both questions is yes.  There has been a price increase, however.  Now, a dollar buys four dumplings instead of five and $2 no longer yields change when tendered for my favorite sesame pancake sandwich.  Nevertheless, $3 for a tasty, well-prepared meal is hard to beat.

Naturally, I complimented the affable owner, Vanessa Duan, on her newly expanded Dumpling House.  She promptly chided me, albeit ever so gently, by reminding me that it had been more than six months since my last visit.

Vanessa Duan

A Beijing native, Vanessa knows how to make a good dumpling, or guo tie (pronounced gwoah·tyeah; literally, "pot sticker").  (Many Chinese menus aimed at the non-cognoscenti refer to them, preposterously, as Peking Ravioli.)  The chive-and-pork (#1) is the best and the most popular variant.  Its wrapper, browned (as it sticks to the pot) to the perfect degree of chewiness, avoids all the common pitfalls such as being overly thick, tough, and rubbery.  The consistency of the delectable filling maintains proper firmness without being rubberlike.  Watching the continuous preparation of these pot-stickers eliminates any doubt about their freshness.  And with a little dumpling sauce, they're oh, so tasty.

Ironically, I typically go to the Dumpling House for a tuna sandwich.  Vanessa's version is made by stuffing tuna salad (with julienned pickled carrots, cilantro, and peas, among its ingredients) into a fresh, warm sesame pancake.  It's simply delicious!   Other popular offerings include noodle soups that serve as meals by themselves.  An ample selection of beverages is also available.  Along with sodas, teas, and coffee, the list of drinks also includes bubble teas, smoothies, and fresh juices.

It's a relief to know that the rebuilt Dumpling House has maintained its superior quality.  Now that there's a comfortable place for me to sit and enjoy my food, there'll not be another six months before my next visit.

Vanessa's Dumpling House

118A Eldridge Street (between Grand & Broome Sts), Lower East Side, Manhattan

(212) 625-8008 or 625-8118

Open daily, 7:30 A.M. till 10:30 P.M.

By train: B,D to Grand St; F to Delancey St; J,M,Z to Essex St
By bus: M15

Still Loco After All These Years

Many years ago, one of my clients had recommended Burrito Loco for its authentic Mexican fare.  I've dined there regularly ever since.  The food is still good, but after 25 years, Jimmy Sanz's "crazy donkey" is becoming tired.

A large part of the Burrito Loco's allure has always been its fiesta-like atmosphere.  This place was a lot of fun and provided a great escape.  My most recent visit, however, left me with the impression that the party is winding down.  The dining room's happy hour and its happy followers have apparently gone south.  I was disappointed that several of the drink menu's fruit-flavored margaritas I'd come to enjoy were unavailable.

Burrito Loco's cocina, mirabile dictu, hasn't suffered.  The guacamole (prepared tableside, $11), chips, and salsa are as fresh and lively as ever.  On this occasion, we ordered two varieties of fajita.  Our plates arrived with their sizzling contents of chicken and salmon ($14 and $17, respectively), sautéed with onions, tomatoes, and bell peppers, accompanied by rice, beans, guacamole, sour cream, and flour tortillas.  Muy sabrosa.

The mood this time didn't seem quite right for us to order their spirituous coffees ($6.75).  Without the dining room's customary festiveness, the spectacular presentations of the Café Burrito Loco or the Café Diablo—replete with dimmed house lights as the coffee drink is set aflame—would have been wasted.

Though I still enjoy the authentic Mexican food, I hope Burrito Loco can recapture some of its erstwhile conviviality and bring back the fun.

 

 

Burrito Loco

166 West 4^th Street (bet. Jones & Cornelia Sts), West Village, Manhattan

(212) 675-1977

http://www.burritoloco.com/

By train: A,C,E,B,D,F,V to W 4^th Street
By bus: M5,M6 (uptown)

L'Arte del Gelato Looks Better Than It Tastes

I usually pass L'Arte del Gelato en route to Cones, which is just around the corner.  Don't tell Raul D'Aloisio, but I stopped short this time.  (It won't happen again, Raul!)

Though small, L'Arte del Gelato's West Village store is bright and inviting.  The two-dozen varieties of gelati and sorbetti are displayed with iconic  adornments (e.g., slices of fruit, nuts, coffee beans, etc.) which enhance their visual appeal.  The flavors are labeled in Italian, thus affording a good opportunity to thrill in the trill and flaunt one's pronunciation.

Unfortunately, the visual sensation here far exceeds the gustatory one.  The sweetness of the flavors do not compare favorably with the refreshing tastes of Cones or Grom.  The watermelon sorbetto was laden with sugar; the grapefruit was not much better.  The intensely flavored passion fruit sorbetto was too sweet as well, but less cloying than the others.  When I treat myself to sorbet on a warm summer's day, I'd like something refreshing.  In this case, however, I felt as though I needed a palate cleanser afterward.

With their high prices (my small cup cost $4.50), L'Arte del Gelato ought to accept credit cards and offer more than a scanty two samples.  Recent DOH sanitary violations at the Chelsea Market location further militate against the likelihood of my hasty return.  The upshot: this art is better enjoyed with the eye than with the palate.

 

L'Arte del Gelato

West Village:

75 Seventh Avenue South (SE corner Barrow St), Manhattan

(212) 924-0803

By train: 1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq
By bus: M20 (downtown)

Chelsea Market:

75 Ninth Avenue (between 15^th & 16^th Sts), Manhattan

(212) 366-0570

By train: A,C,E (IND) to 14^th St; L (BMT) to 8^th Av
By bus: M11, M14D

West Side (May-October):

Lincoln Center Plaza, Manhattan

By train: 1 to 66^th Street
By bus: M5, M7, M11, M20, M66, M104

http://www.lartedelgelato.com/

Sanctuary's Quite the Teas

How about some refreshing iced tea on a hot day?  If you're in SoHo, consider stopping by Sanctuary T to celebrate their first annual Iced Tea Festival.  From now through 10 June, you can sample up to five of their daily blends gratis.

 
Beyond the five ready-made selections, Sanctuary T offers a dizzying selection of over 70 whole-leaf loose teas and flowering-art teas to be enjoyed in the restaurant or at home.  My favorites were the Blackberry Lemonade, Pineapple Rooibos, and Peppermint Moon.  Drink up!

 

  

 

 

 

 

 
Sanctuary T

337B West Broadway (NE corner Grand St), SoHo, Manhattan

(212) 941-7832

http://www.sanctuarytea.com/

By train: A,C,E to Canal Street
By bus: M6 (uptown)

The Downtown Food Chase

Last Wednesday at Chase Plaza, the Downtown Alliance held its tenth annual Dine Around Downtown™, a gathering of 50 eateries from Lower Manhattan.  These ranged from the old standbys like bar food from Jim Brady's to extravagant venues such as Bouley.  For $3 to $6, one could sample one of a restaurant's signature menu items and enjoy it in true Wall Street fashion—standing or walking about.

The selections come with the territory.  How does Danube's Salmon in Watercress Sauce sound?  Perhaps you'd prefer Harry's Oysters on the Half Shell or Smörgås Chef's Aquavit-cured Gravlax.  Or do you favor Ancora Ristorante’s Kobe Beef Ravioli or Stone Street Tavern's Lobster Mac and Cheese?  The list went on and on.  Me, I favored them all, but alas, so much food, so little capacity.

My instincts led me to the longest lines.  I decided to try Delmonico's Steak Sandwich first.  The $6 price seemed reasonable for a deliciously simple combo of tender beef on a fresh hero roll.  The meat was seasoned sufficiently to obviate the need for additional salt or pepper.  I was still hungry, however.

After all the recent press reports, I couldn't resist sauntering over to the adjacent booth to try Wall Street Burger Shoppe's Char-grilled Angus Beef Cheeseburger. 

The delicious $4 sample seemed like a relative bargain when compared with their much-hyped $175 Kobe Beef Burger.  That's right, for less than two C-notes, one can enjoy a Wagyu beef burger with foie gras, aged Gruyère, shaved black truffles, golden truffle mayo, all dusted in gold leaf.  It's available after 4:00 P.M. in the bar room only.

But does Wall Street Burger Shoppe sell a lot of these tony burgers?  "Well, ever since the press, it's kinda been like crazy," explains co-owner Heather Tierney.   The motivation?  "It’s kind of a promotion we did with Pocket Change which covers the most expensive things in New York.  And they asked us to create the burger," says Heather.  One of these days, when my wallet becomes overweight, I might give it a try.  Maybe.

Alas, I hadn't saved room for dessert.  Not that there wasn't a lot of temptation, however.  So many sweets, such as Financier Patisserie's Baba au Rhum and The Grill Room’s Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée, beckoned.  Next time?  Most definitely!

Spanish Sole Food

The dining room and bar haven’t changed much since my first visit to El Charro Español more than a decade ago.  The décor in this West Village Spaniard looks as though it hasn't undergone significant modification over the last half-century or so—it's somewhat old-fashioned but comfortable nonetheless.

Be it tradition, reliable quality, or whatever the reason, I order the same dish invariably: Filet of Grey Sole A La Plancha.   The preparation is simple, yet the results so delectable.  Ostensibly, a superior piece of grey sole is placed onto a grill and then removed at just the right moment.  That's it.

Though I've been told repeatedly that the sole is not seasoned, it does reveal slight hints of garlic and possibly salt.  Perhaps I tasted the essence of the grill itself, seasoned over the years with the countless meals cooked upon it.  Regardless, the resulting preparation is perfect.  My first experience here taught me not only that nothing needs to be added, but that nothing should be added to this exquisite fish.  To wit, I made the mistake of sprinkling a small amount of pepper onto my pescado—it changed the flavor enough to diminish it.  I had unwittingly destroyed a masterpiece.

My salad and vegetable dish (broccoli with garlic) were rather good, but unremarkable.  Though I did not order it during my most recent visit, I have fond memories of the Sopa De Ajo (a soup of garlic and egg in chicken broth).  It’s heavy on garlic and, to minimize post-prandial complaints (or excuses!), should be ordered by one's date as well.

The effervescence of a Cava added the right sparkle to the sole and stood up to the garlic in the broccoli.

Other menu items, such as Paella, salmon, various Pollos and Chuletas, all look enticing—and considerably more affordable than the $33.50 grey sole.  Perhaps some day I'll try something a little different—possibly the Broiled Filet of Grey Sole A La Parrilla?

 

El Charro Español

4 Charles Street (near Greenwich Av), West Village, Manhattan

(212) 242-9547

http://www.el-charro-espanol.com/

By train:

IRT: 1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq; 2,3 to 14^th St
IND: A,C,E,B,D,F,V to W 4^th St
PATH to 9^th St

By bus: M5,M6 (uptown), M20 (downtown), M8

The Icemen Coneth

Opened roughly a decade ago by two brothers from Buenos Aires, Cones dishes up excellent handmade Argentine-style ice cream.   Raul and Oscar D'Aloisio’s frozen wares have the consistency of gelato and come in some two dozen flavors including creamy zabaglione, yerba maté (a bitter, South American green tea), and dulce de leche as well as more traditional favorites like hazelnut.

However, if you prefer something tart on a warm day, it's hard to imagine anything more refreshing than one or more of their dozen sorbets.   You may wish to check out a couple of my personal faves, lemon and passion fruit.

 

Raul ("the older one," as he puts it) offers me a couple of samples.

The two-sample limit seems almost cruel.

 

As with all good ice creams, Cones' do not rely on excessive sweetness to mask inferior-quality flavors.  Their premium flavorings really stack up.

 

Cones

272 Bleecker Street (near Morton St), West Village, Manhattan

(212) 414-1795

By train: 1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq
By bus: M20 (downtown)

Here Comes the Grom

Grom founders Guido Martinetti and namesake Federico Grom started their first gelato venture five years ago in Torino (Turin).  Since then, they've added more than a dozen stores in northern Italy.  Last year, they opened the first Grom outside Italy, on Manhattan's Upper West Side.  Last month, another new Grom began serving its frozen delights farther downtown in the West Village.   I visited the latter shortly after the dust had settled.

If it's not the best gelato or sorbet I've tasted, it's pretty darn close. While one could debate whose flavors are best,  Grom's consistency is undeniably supreme.  The gelato is silky and creamy; the sorbet is velvety smooth—more so than any sorbet, sorbetto, sherbet, or sherbert I’ve tried in the United States.

The combination of luscious flavors and rich texture need not be a guilty pleasure, however.  Grom uses natural ingredients and maintains that its gelati contain less cholesterol, fewer carbohydrates, and half the fat of super-premium brands.

The menu changes monthly.  I tried a small cup of limone (Sfusato lemon from Amalfi) and pompelmo rosa (ruby red grapefruit from Florida).  The scoop: it was delicious, refreshing, and not too sweet—I could really taste the essence of the fruit.

Grom's motto, Il Gelato Come Una Volta means, "gelato as it once was."  While that may be true, the prices aren't quite so old-fashioned.  Cones and cups:  small ($4.75); medium ($5.75); large ($6.75); extra large cup ($9). Quality comes with a price.

 

Grom

Upper West Side:

2165 Broadway (between 76^th & 77^th Sts, near 76^th St), Manhattan

(646) 290-7233

By train: 1,2,3 to 72^nd Street
By bus: M104

 

West Village:

233 Bleecker Street (NW corner Carmine St), Manhattan

(212) 206-1738

By train: A,C,E,B,D,F,V to W 4^th Street
By bus: M5,M6 (uptown)

http://www.grom.it/eng/index.htm