Comestiblog

High and Dry at Giando on the Water

It's hard to imagine a more spectacular space in which to dine than the one at Brooklyn's Giando on the Water.  Situated at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge, this old-line Italian-American restaurant takes full advantage of its location along the East River.  Its soaring ceilings, glass walls, and sparkling opulence provide an ideal setting for watching the sun descend through the screen of the Manhattan skyline.  Bundle the foregoing elements with easy access and ample parking, and Giando would seem to be the quintessential special-occasion venue—for a wedding party, family reunion, or other catered affair.  The very best reason to visit, however, is to lose yourself in the eyes of your date, when distractions such as food and wine are unnecessary, or even unwelcome.  Go for the romance, because you're certainly not going there for the food.

The meals aren't bad, they're simply banal.  Perhaps this point was emphasized by the sharp contrast between the extraordinary surroundings and the extremely ordinary comestibles.  But the upshot is that the food is unmemorable, in the most literal way.  What was the sauce on my salmon?  Something a little buttery?  Did my Comestaccomplice have the Chicken Piccata, or was it Francese?  I had to rely solely on my dining notes for all my recollections.

Insalata Capricciosa

For the record, I ordered the Broiled Salmon Dijon (listed on the menu as "De Jon").  Hints of mustard enhanced the fish slightly, but the flavorless broccoli and forgettable potatoes made this seem like a dish that could have been served at Olive Garden.  My Comestaccomplice's Chicken al Limone was of the same caliber: a little lemony and a lot ordinary.  The Insalata Capricciosa, er, salad, wasn't quite up to the aforementioned Olive Garden's standards.  (And it didn't even come with breadsticks!)  For dessert, the so-called Homemade Chocolate Cake seemed industrial.

Broiled Salmon Dijon

The wine list had its own problems.  It's wildly overpriced, with offerings that do battle with the many lighter and more subtle menu offerings.  We'd finally found one bottle that would complement our dishes, but apparently so had everyone else: it was sold out.  We couldn't find a single other bottle that would suit our main courses.  This may have been the only moderate-to-fine-dining meal at which my dining partner and I had forgone some sort of alcoholic beverage.  Even if it's a glass of wine, a beer, or a mixed drink, we invariably enjoy some type of libation at dinner.  We tried hard, honestly we did, but it simply couldn't happen in light of Giando's offerings.

Chicken al Limone

At least we had the beautiful setting and well-trained waitstaff at our disposal … well, sort of.  Once it became clear that there was to be no wine served to us, we were all but abandoned in favor of the two or three other tables occupied that evening.  (The staff-to-customer ratio was close to par.)  Since the 20% service charge is obligatory, why bother making any effort to earn it?

Homemade Chocolate Cake

There was little benefit to visiting here for the Dine In Brooklyn promotion.  As it turns out, Giando on the Water offers three-course Prima sera specials all year (Monday through Friday) for $25.95.  For the two of us, the restaurant-week savings amounted to less than two dollars.  Perhaps I shouldn't be too critical, however.  Three courses and a magnificent view for $25 isn't all that bad.

Giando on the Water

400 Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn

(718) 387-7000

http://www.giandoonthewater.com/

By train: to Marcy Av
By bus: Q59

Canaille Expect Better?

One benefit of the Dine In Brooklyn promotion is its annual roll call of restaurants that have escaped my attention.  Canaille, on the fringes of Park Slope, is an example of such a place.  Though it's been around since October of 2007, I'd not heard of this Fifth Avenue French bistro previously.  Its website, however, seemed rather appealing and gave all indications of being a safe $25 bet.

Some of Brooklyn's most popular eateries are fully booked before restaurant week even begins.  Since Canaille (pronounced kuh·NYE) opens at 6:00 P.M. and does not accept reservations, I arrived early to avoid disappointment.  Though my fears of competing for a table were unfounded, there was ample disappointment nonetheless.

For the better part of an hour, my Comestaccomplice and I had the entire bistro to ourselves.  Although the (effectively) private dining room was pleasant, it signaled a problem.  From what I could tell, the lack of customers was not due to the cooking or the décor.  Rather, it seemed to all boil down to a single component: co-owner Philippe de Crespi, a native Parisian whose contemptuous arrogance is exceeded only by his bad attitude.  His demeanor suggested annoyance with our presence.  He appeared to be suspicious, nay, disdainful, of anyone temerarious enough to enter his establishment.  Even the name Canaille (a pejorative term that refers to the riffraff or the unwashed masses) affords an insight into his regard for his clientele (or lack thereof).  The friendliness of co-owner Marie MacLean, on the other hand, provided a warm antidote to her partner's disagreeable behavior.  Her pleasant, nearly apologetic tone was not enough to overcome Monsieur de Crespi's insuperable imperiousness, however.

Aside from the aforementioned situation, there seems to be no reason for this business to be foundering.  What de Crespi lacks in personality, he can almost offset with his cooking.  With part-time assistance from Lyonnais Chef Christophe over the past year, the kitchen is in competent hands.  Our meals were really quite tasty.

Philippe's background as a sommelier and his predilection for French wines are evident in Canaille's well-chosen, albeit overpriced, wine list.  Except for the Domaine Saint-Vincent Brut NV (from New Mexico), every wine comes from France.  Our choice of the crisp 2008 Jean Rosen Pinot Blanc from Alsace turned out to be a fine match for the courses to come.

Tapénade hors d'œuvre

Comprising two starters, three main courses, and two desserts, the Dine In Brooklyn menu was somewhat spare, and not all that representative of the bistro's regular carte.  We began with complimentary southern French hors d'œuvre of garlicky tapénade and toast.  Before we even had the chance to amuse our gueules, however, de Crespi asked us whether we were going to eat it.  Franchement!  Happily, we saw more of Marie than of Philippe the rest of the evening.

Citrus Salad

Carrot Cumin Soup

Having tried both available offerings, we felt that our starters lived up to expectations.  Though my companion's Citrus Salad (mixed greens with orange and grapefruit segments, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar) was fresh and appetizing, it was not much more than a good salad.  My Carrot Cumin Soup was a better choice.  Velvety, and tasting exactly as advertised, it's a dish I'd order again.  Both starters were prepared well using ingredients appropriate to the season.

Tarragon Chicken Linguine

Our mains were somewhat mixed.  While my Comestaccomplice's Tarragon Chicken Linguine (tarragon-braised fowl, pasta, and julienned carrots and zucchini) was satisfying, it was predictably ordinaire.  (Perhaps she'd have fared better with the third option of Moules Frites.)  My main course, on the other hand, was superb.  Served atop a split pea purée, the Pork Butt Confit was mouthwateringly flavorful, succulent, and tender.  The leguminous accompaniment to the pork's subtle seasoning was a succès éclatant.

Pork Butt Confit

For dessert, we were given the choice between banal and dull.  Both of us rejected the Milk Chocolate Roll in favor of the Crème Caramel.  The custard was just as we expected it to be—nothing more, nothing less.

Crème Caramel

To his credit, Philippe de Crespi turns out respectable comestibles.  While I consider some of his dishes worthy of another visit, his demeanor is simply too deterring to warrant a return.  Until he recognizes the extent to which his personality is militating against his success, it's improbable his bistro will thrive.  How can any business prosper if it treats its customers like canaille?

Canaille Bistro Français

78 Fifth Avenue (between St Marks & Prospect Pls), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 789-8899

http://www.canaillebistro.com/

By train: 2,3 to Bergen Street
By bus: B63

Keeping Apace with the Tempo of Park Slope

Gastronomically speaking, there wasn't much to recommend this part of Park Slope less than a decade ago.  Pioneers like Cucina, Al di Là, and the erstwhile Vaux changed all that, however, and paved the way for what has become a restaurant row on Fifth Avenue.  After a 16-year run, Cucina's closing in 2004 left many regulars bereft.  Its reincarnation as Tempo that same year assuaged the grief, however.

Chef Michael Fiore made the transition from Cucina and infused his Italian-inspired dishes with other flavors from the Mediterranean, including those of France, Spain, and Morocco.  Add to that his unmistakably American accent, and voilà—Tempo!

The three-course, prix fixe menu ($32, Sunday through Thursday; $42, Friday and Saturday) offers a wide range of dishes to savor.  For my first course, I chose one of Tempo's signature dishes: Duck Pastilla Rolls (duck and almonds, sweetened with a Moroccan barbeque glaze, in a crisp feuille du bric wrapper).  The sweetness of the glaze was reminiscent of a Hoisin sauce and gave the dish a vaguely Asian flavor.  It was rather tasty, though I tend to prefer duck preparations to be more savory.

The bread and bean dip added a nice touch.

My main course was an Atlantic salmon atop a chickpea falafel on a bed of charred eggplant purée with sesame tahini.  The covering of radish and watercress salad added the necessary greenery.  The fish was tender and moist and seemed to blend well with its plate partners.  Since I dine on salmon often, this unusual preparation was a welcome change.

I should point out that Tempo offers a good selection of wines.  However, the cocktails are so refreshing that I drank them instead of wine with my meal.  The passion fruit Bellini made a delicious apéritif and was a nice variation of the popular drink made with white peach nectar.  The Pomegranate Margarita (made with PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur) proved to be a nice twist on the classic lime version.  With tasty libations like that, I didn’t really miss my wine that evening.

Selecting a dessert is, perhaps, the most difficult part of the meal.  Each one seems as tempting as the next.  Who can resist the New Orleans-style beignets with Café du Monde gelato or the passion fruit crème brûlée?  There are also artisanal cheeses available for an additional charge.  I finally decided upon the warm molten chocolate cake with caramel pecan crunch gelato.  Yum!

Tempo brings a sort of informal stylishness that was once a scarcity in this part of Brooklyn.  The décor of the dining room and wine bar is chic, yet casual.  In addition, the waitstaff is courteous, relaxed, and knowledgeable.  Above all, however, one is made to feel comfortable.  Keep up the Tempo!

  

Tempo

256 Fifth Avenue (bet. Carroll St & Garfield Pl), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 636-2020

http://www.tempobrooklyn.com/

By train: M,R to Union Street
By bus: B63

Marco Polo Turns 25

Last Tuesday marked the silver anniversary of Marco Polo Ristorante.  To celebrate, the famed Italian eatery is offering a three-course, prix fixe menu: $19.83 for lunch and $25 for dinner (to commemorate their inaugural year and their years in business, respectively).  The special menu is available for 25 days, from 5 June till the end of the month.

Seven starters are offered, including a soup-of-the-day, a salad, or one of the old favorites such as Carciofo alla Contadina (artichoke stuffed with breadcrumbs and cheese) and Calamari con Cannellini e Grano (squid served with cannellini beans and grain).

I chose the Mozzarella con Pomodoro e Basilico (homemade mozzarella with sliced tomato, basil, and extra virgin olive oil).  I probably should have ordered something else.  The fresh mozzarella was a bit dry and rubbery, and the tomatoes were, alas, commensurate with the season.  By contrast, I'd tried the stuffed artichoke on a previous visit and consider it to be a better choice.

There are a dozen main courses from which to select, including many traditional dishes like Pollo Scarpariello (chicken sautéed with garlic, white wine, rosemary, and lemon) and Vitello Piccata (veal scaloppini topped with artichokes in a white wine sauce), as well as fish, seafood, and vegetable dishes.

Happily, my second course made up for the disappointing appetizer.  I ordered the Salmone Tornado Alla Mostarda (salmon over spinach in a mustard sauce) but my waiter returned moments later to inform me that the salmon was no longer available.  The chef kindly offered to prepare a sole in a similar fashion.  It turned out to be an excellent substitution.  The sole was moist, flaky, and delicious.  The mashed potatoes were tasty, but oh, so rich.  A glass of Pinot Grigio made a fine accompaniment.
 

Even though I dined relatively early, only two of the three listed desserts were available.  The Charlotte di Venezia (sponge cake filled with torrone gelato topped with hot chocolate sauce) sounded rather tempting, but I decided on the homemade Italian (ricotta) cheesecake.  It was creamy and tasty without being overly sweet—a good choice.

Marco Polo has aged gracefully over a quarter- century.  The dining room, decorated with iconic murals of Italy, maintains an old-world elegance without seeming pretentious.  Host Joseph Chirico and his staff are attentive and professional, and executive chef Bruno Milone seldom disappoints.  Congratulations, Marco Polo.

Marco Polo Ristorante

345 Court Street (SE corner Union St), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 852-5015

http://marcopoloristorante.com/

By train: F,G to Carroll Street
By bus: B71, B75

Getting Your Fixe

The recently concluded Dine In Brooklyn event reminded me just how much I enjoy "Restaurant Weeks."  Fortunately, by featuring affordable prix fixe menus, eateries can extend the idea year-round.  This allows restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a bargain price (though sometimes, alas, to unload food they’ve ordered too much of).  A little comparison and quick arithmetic involving the regular menu tend to bear this out.  Even if fixed-price menus include dishes not listed à la carte, they typically represent a good value.  Portions may be smaller than those ordered individually, but that only strengthens the case for having dessert.

Many restaurants cloak their prix fixe offerings as "pre-theatre" for those who require (or who don't mind) an early supper.  To me, dining out is to be enjoyed without a concern for time and should not be rushed before an evening performance.  I typically order pre-theatre specials in name only—that is, on nights I do not attend the theatre.  (On the occasion of an actual show, when time is short, I do tend to order à la carte—from Gray's Papaya.)

Upcoming posts will highlight some of my recent prix fixe adventures.

There’s not a problem that I can’t fixe, ‘cause I can do it in the prix.