The dining room
and bar
haven’t changed much since my first visit to El Charro Español more than a decade ago. The décor in this West Village Spaniard looks as though it hasn't undergone significant modification over the last half-century or so—it's somewhat old-fashioned but comfortable nonetheless.
Be it tradition, reliable quality, or whatever the reason, I order the same dish invariably: Filet of Grey Sole A La Plancha.
The preparation is simple, yet the results so delectable. Ostensibly, a superior piece of grey sole is placed onto a grill and then removed at just the right
moment. That's it.
Though I've been told repeatedly that the sole is not seasoned, it does reveal slight hints of garlic and possibly salt. Perhaps I tasted the essence of the grill itself, seasoned over the years with the countless meals cooked upon it. Regardless, the resulting preparation is perfect. My first experience here taught me not only that nothing needs to be added, but that nothing should be added to this exquisite fish. To wit, I made the mistake of sprinkling a small amount of pepper onto my pescado—it changed the flavor enough to diminish it. I had unwittingly destroyed a masterpiece.
My salad
and vegetable dish (broccoli with garlic)
were rather good, but unremarkable. Though I
did not order it during my most recent visit, I have fond memories of the Sopa De Ajo (a soup of garlic and egg in chicken broth). It’s heavy on garlic and, to minimize post-prandial complaints (or excuses!), should be ordered by one's date as well.
The effervescence of a Cava
added the right sparkle to the sole and stood up to the garlic in the broccoli.
Other menu items, such as Paella, salmon, various Pollos and Chuletas, all look enticing—and considerably more affordable than the $33.50 grey sole. Perhaps some day I'll try something a little different—possibly the Broiled Filet of Grey Sole A La Parrilla?
El Charro Español
4 Charles Street (near Greenwich Av), West Village, Manhattan
(212) 242-9547
http://www.el-charro-espanol.com/
By train:
IRT: 1 to Christopher St-Sheridan Sq; 2,3 to 14th St
IND: A,C,E,B,D,F,V to W 4th St
PATH to 9th St
By bus: M5,M6 (uptown), M20 (downtown), M8




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