Comestiblog

Fat Franks—The Wurst Place in Bellows Falls, Vermont

Fat Franks, the self-proclaimed Wurst Place in Bellows Falls, is a place to relish.  Anyone can serve a hot dog, but not everyone can do it right.  This little place offers perfectly prepared frankfurters, sausages, and burgers in a clean, friendly, and welcoming environment.  Though the franks and such are not made here, their provenance is local and regional.  To wit, the bacon and most of the smoked sausages come from nearby Claremont, New Hampshire, while the wienies and other wursts come from Boston, Springfield, and Mattapan, Massachusetts.  Even the ale used to poach the knackwurst and bratwurst hails from Vermont's own Long Trail Brewing Company.

Proprietor Jim Mort with daughter Lila Pellerin

Begun some three-and-a-half years ago, this excellent wurst venture was a result of some compelling circumstances.  While Jim Mort was growing dissatisfied with his job, a Chinese restaurant, the sole tenant of his building next to Miss Bellows Falls Diner, closed and vacated the premises.  The time was right for his embarkation into the man-eat-dog world of wieners.

Visitors to this Bellows Falls wienery can enjoy their red hots in three of the wurst ways: eat-in, take-home, or self-serve.  Perusal of the comprehensive menu reveals every manner of encased meat imaginable, including lamb, chicken, andouille, and Italian sausages, kielbasy, and German-style würste.  Each of the seven types of sausage is smothered in its own perfectly matched sauce-and-veggie concoction.  For the dogs, at least 15 toppings are available, along with several sides such as hand-cut Russet fries (with optional chili and cheese), homemade coleslaw, and beans laced with maple syrup.  Beyond the wurst, Fat Franks offers seven-ounce beef burgers (as well as turkey and vegetable varieties), also prepared in seemingly infinite ways.  For those who prefer a doggie bag, three sizes of frankfurter—Everyday, Skinny, and Fat—are sold by the pound, along with the aforementioned bacon and sausages.  One can even purchase the perennially popular Sabrett's sauerkraut by the bag.  Finally, to satisfy stomachs growling for a quick bite, there's the self-service steam table at which one can dress up a so-called Everyday Dog in fine fashion.  This is how my Comestaccomplice and I sampled the best of the wurst.

The Everyday Dog’s meaty flavor and proper "snap" reflect Fat Franks' attention to quality.  Though not all the menu's add-ons are available here, the superior toppings and condiments more than adequately round out a truly delicious experience.  While this New Yorker has grown accustomed to Sabrett's sauerkraut (and was pleased to see it among the self-service offerings), I've never enjoyed a tastier, spicier (homemade) chili topping anywhere.  In addition, the well-chosen Raye's Stone Mill Mustards from Maine afford a deeply-flavored sauce for every sausage.  Lastly, to help tame the dogs, beer and wine are available.

Frankly speaking, in the world of wursts, this place is a wiener.

Fat Franks

92 Rockingham Street
Bellows Falls, VT   05101-1316   (map)

(802) 463-4388

http://fat-franks.com/

By train: Amtrak's Vermonter to Bellows Falls, VT (BLF)

 

Curtis' Bar·B·Q: Smoke and (Bus) Mirrors in Putney, Vermont

Were it not for the billowing smoke and hunger-inducing aromas wafting though the air, it would be easy to miss the two blue school buses that house "The 9^th Wonder of the World."  Curtis' Bar·B·Q, just up the hill from exit 4 on Interstate 91 in Vermont, is in its 41^st season of serving southern-style barbecue in the quaint village of Putney.  Over the years, this seasonal, unassuming stand has garnered a loyal following not just locally, but well beyond these verdant hills as well.

What brings people back season after season?  The answer begins with the man behind the grill.  Curtis Tuff, a native of Macomb, Georgia, was a migrant farm worker who followed harvests from Florida to New England.  In 1961, Curtis' itinerancy came to an end, however, when he found steady work picking apples for the Darrow family at Green Mountain Orchards in Putney.  To augment his income, Tuff used his know-how to prepare pig roasts for special events at area schools.  Using temporary cooking pits he fashioned from cement blocks, as well as a sauce based on his grandfather's recipe, Curtis gradually introduced Vermonters to real southern barbecue.  It wasn't long before word-of-mouth generated consistent demand for his cooking.

The aforementioned cement blocks proved unwieldy and short-lived, however.  That's where the school buses entered the scene.  Employing a little Yankee ingenuity, the Southerner outfitted the vehicles with a fire pit crafted from a 275-gallon oil drum, halved lengthwise, and vented through the roof with stove pipes and a fan.

By 1968, Curtis' Bar·B·Q was a going concern.  With his newfound grilling mobility, Tuff took his barbecue act on the road to nearby locales including a number of school campuses.  His popularity among lucubratory students earned him the unofficial title of "The 9th Wonder of the World," a slogan he uses to this day.

The limited menu of pork ribs and chicken hasn't changed much over the years.  Nevertheless, it was enough to draw the attention of The New York Times, whose favorable, 1988 article helped Tuff find permanent parking spots for his blue school buses.  The newer bus serves as the main stand, with a small counter and two of its windows flipped up to accommodate customer orders and pickups.  To the right, under a corrugated metal roof, the affable, 72-year-old Curtis Tuff can be seen grilling meats amid clouds of smoke.  He still uses his halved oil drums, now mounted atop an old hay wagon.

Service seems to be instantaneous.  I scarcely had time to put away my change when my order was ready.  Seating is available at picnic tables that flank the unpaved parking lot.  A new open-sided picnic shed seems somehow out of place.  Though it is the only structure on the premises that does not appear ramshackle (or perhaps because of that), the older seating area with umbrellas—nearer the road—tends to be more popular.

Cooking time is roughly 80 minutes for a slab of ribs; 90 minutes for a three-pound chicken.  Curtis refuses to use charcoal, opting, instead, for hardwoods—which include, of course, maple.  The meat is done to perfection, its succulence imbued with a rich, sweet, smoky flavor.  Though the barbecue sauce delivers the right amount of heat, its tang verges on being overly vinegary.  The flavor reminds me somewhat of Tabasco®.  There's a practical reason for the acidity, however.  Because the recipe predates the advent of refrigeration, vinegar was added as a preservative.

Small portion (2) of Ribs

Although barbecue may not be the first thing that comes to mind when visiting the Green Mountain State, Curtis' quality and convenience make this a perfect stop for a quick bite while leaf-peeping.  The experience is quite satisfying.  While wiping his mouth and preparing to leave, a person at the next table declared, "Another great meal!"

Curtis' Bar·B·Q

7 Putney Landing Road (I-91, exit 4)
Putney, VT   05346  (map)

(802) 387-5474

Open April through October, 10:00 A.M till dusk.  Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

http://www.curtisbbqvt.com/