"It is what it is." Nowhere is that sentiment more apropos, perhaps, than at John's Famous Deli in Brooklyn. And no other place epitomizes Bensonhurst more than does the self-proclaimed "hero king," who rules within the shadow of the elevated BMT West End line. Since 1967, John Cicero and his family have satisfied local appetites with their Italian-American eats.
Brooklyn is home to the roast beef hero. Though there are many practitioners, few produce a hot beef hero as good as John's ($7.25; available daily except Mondays and Fridays).
Thinly sliced roast beef is piled onto a crusty hero roll, upon which mozzarella is layered. (They used to offer a choice between mozzarella and American cheese, but the latter gave way to the superiority of the former.) Order your sandwich with everything for the special dark-brown gravy (some have called it "black gold") and sautéed onions. Find a table indoors or outdoors and be sure to have plenty of napkins handy.
John's also offers a number of other heros (including the Godfather), as well as hot plates, daily specials, and rice balls. They even serve breakfast. (Please click here to see the menu.)
This is a good stop before a Brooklyn Cyclones game (baseball the way it oughta be) at KeySpan Park, Coney Island.
And now there’s a branch in Bay Ridge. Opened a month ago, the new John's transports the same menu westward to a more contemporary setting,
replete with garden dining
and table service. Whereas the original offers parking, the newcomer, alas, does not.
Regardless of which location you visit, you'll hear the familiar refrain, "Thank you Subway!" to acknowledge a gratuity, or subway money, for the deli man. (Speaking of subways, a Subway sandwich shop happens to share the block with the original John's. It's almost analogous to having Domino's selling its "Brooklyn-style" pizza across the street from Di Fara's.)
John's Famous Deli
Bensonhurst:
2033 Stillwell Avenue (between 86th St & Av T), Brooklyn
(718) 372-7481
By train: D to 25th Avenue
By bus: B1
Bay Ridge:
8905 Third Avenue (near 89th St), Brooklyn
(718) 238-8004
By train: R to 86th Street
By bus: B37
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