Spanish Sole Food

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Spanish Sole Food

The dining room and bar haven't changed much since my first visit to El Charro Español more than a decade ago. The décor in this West Village Spaniard looks as though it hasn't undergone significant modification over the last half-century or so—a vestige of the area's days of Little Spain. It may be somewhat old-fashioned, but it's comfortable all the same.

El Charro Español's old-world dining room

Be it tradition, reliable quality, or whatever the reason, I order the same dish invariably: Filet of Grey Sole A La Plancha. The preparation is simple, yet the results so delectable. Ostensibly, a superior piece of grey sole is placed onto a grill and then removed at just the right moment. That's it.

Filet of Grey Sole A La Plancha

Though I've been told repeatedly that the sole is not seasoned, it does reveal slight hints of garlic and possibly salt. Perhaps I tasted the essence of the grill itself, seasoned over the years with the countless meals cooked upon it. Regardless, the resulting preparation is perfect. My first experience here taught me not only that nothing needs to be added, but that nothing should be added to this exquisite fish. To wit, I made the mistake of sprinkling a small amount of pepper onto my pescado—it changed the flavor enough to diminish it. I had unwittingly destroyed a masterpiece.

My salad and vegetable dish (broccoli with garlic) were rather good, but unremarkable. Though I did not order it during my most recent visit, I have fond memories of the Sopa De Ajo (a soup of garlic and egg in chicken broth). It's heavy on garlic and, to minimize postprandial complaints (or excuses!), should be ordered by one's date as well.

The effervescence of a Cava added the right sparkle to the sole and stood up to the garlic in the broccoli.

Other menu items, such as Paella, salmon, various Pollos and Chuletas, all look enticing—and considerably more affordable than the $33.50 grey sole. Perhaps some day I'll try something a little different—possibly the Broiled Filet of Grey Sole A La Parrilla?