Comestiblog

A Visit to Lake Wobegon in the Berkshires

Owing to a tight schedule yesterday, we hadn’t time for Café Bœuf or even the Chatterbox Café.  Instead, we picked up some Powdermilk biscuits, catchup, and Beboparebop Rhubarb Pie at Ralph’s Pretty Good Grocery, and enjoyed them under the Koussevitzky Music Shed at Tanglewood in Lenox, Massachusetts.  Here are some of the pictures:

Fred Newman, Tim Russell, Sue Scott, Garrison Keillor

Fred Newman, Tim Russell, Sue Scott

Garrison Keillor

Inga Swearingen and Garrison Keillor

Rich Dworsky and Garrison Keillor

These Boots are Made for Eatin'

Edible boots?  Yes, in a way, if you're talking about geographical shapes.  With a menu influenced by dishes from Louisiana and Italy, Two Boots Brooklyn is aptly named.  Of course, the name could also imply a neighborhood place in which to kick back and relax.  The eclectic decorations provide the setting for one of the most casual, family-friendly restaurants around.

The Cajun boot's footprint on the menu is considerably larger than that of its Mediterranean partner.  Most of the starters, for instance, are Louisiana-based.  Examples include Bubba's Black Bean Chili, Baton Rouge Wings, Natchez Nachos, and Spicy BBQ Shrimp N'Awlins Style.  Fried Calamari is the only Italian first course, unless you stretch your imagination to include Cajun Garlic Bread.

Louisiana also dominates the selection of main courses.  For example, there's the 12-ounce Steak Louisianne, Big Daddy's Chicken-Fried Steak, Blackened Catfish Filet, Crescent City Jambalya, and even the Voodoo Southern Fried Chicken.  All main courses come with a choice of two side dishes.  I ordered the blackened Filet of Salmon ($14.95).  It was not the best piece of fish I've ever eaten and the seasoning was scarcely Cajun.  It didn't taste bad, but, sadly, it didn't agree with me.  My side dishes of broccoli with garlic and sautéed spinach were quite all right.

To wash it all down, I chose the delicious Creole Lemonade.

On the lighter side, Two Boots' collations comprise salads, pasta, burgers, po' boys, and other sandwiches.  Their popular thin-crust pizzas come in three sizes with an extensive array of toppings.  There's also a sizable kids' menu.

Desserts are decidedly American.  Among the highlights is Brooklyn's own Steve's Key Lime Pie ($4.95).

Two Boots Brooklyn is open for lunch, brunch, and dinner.  Certain evenings feature a varied selection of musical performances.

 

 

Two Boots Brooklyn

514 2^nd Street (bet. 7^th & 8^th Avs), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 499-3253

http://www.twobootsbrooklyn.com/

By train: B,Q to 7^th Avenue
By bus: B67, B71

Lowly Mole

My travels often take me up the Merritt Parkway, through Connecticut.  For various reasons, High Ridge Road (Exit 35) in Stamford is a convenient stopover for me.  Olé Molé, a little Mexican place not far from the off-ramp, had been on my radar for some time.  I recently succumbed to my curiosity and gave it a try.

Perhaps I've become a bit jaded by the good Mexican food in New York and the yet better stuff in California.  Or maybe Olé Molé just isn't all that good.  My Comestaccomplice and I tried a couple of dishes that weren't bad, but lacked the allure of a repeat visit.  The relatively high prices further decreased the likelihood of our return.

The flavorless salsa that accompanied the chips seemed to portend what was to come.  The Enchiladas Suizas (red corn tortillas with chicken, vegetables, and cheese, served with salsa verde and mole negro) at $12.95 were bland, but slightly better than the tough, uninspired Pollo Juarez (grilled marinated chicken breast, served with a mole verde) for $13.95.  All platillos come with rice, beans, and flour tortillas.  There's an additional charge of 50¢ for extra ingredients (i.e., rice, beans, lettuce, onion, tortillas, jalapeño, cheese, sour cream, small salsas).

The lack of flavor is surprising, given the high quality of the ingredients, which are obviously fresh, and the individual preparation of each dish made therefrom.

Though slow, the service was pleasant and courteous.  Our requests for salsa replenishments were all accommodated cheerfully.  Unfortunately, the ambiance of the limited dining area has all the appeal of a fast-food establishment.  The outdoor (parking lot) seating holds similar appeal.  Overall, this little place is not all that bad, but doesn't truly Merritt another visit.

Olé Molé

1030 High Ridge Road (near Olga Dr)
Stamford, CT   06905-1605   (map)

(203) 461-9962

http://olemole.net/

By bus: 31

Have a Swede Solstice

Scandinavians know a thing or two about celebrating the summer solstice.  This Friday, 20 June, you can join the celebration of this year’s longest day at the annual Swedish Midsummer Festival in Lower Manhattan's Battery Park City from 5:00 P.M. to 8:00 P.M.

Try some traditional delicacies from some of New York's best Swedish restaurants.  Then dance away the calories to the traditional fiddle music of Paul Dahlin and friends.  Children of all ages can enjoy decorating the maypole, making summer wreaths, playing games, or watching a parade.

Swedish Midsummer Festival

Robert F. Wagner Jr. Park
Battery Park City, Lower Manhattan

http://www.nycmidsummer.com/

By train: 1 to Rector St; 4,5 to Bowling Green
By bus: M9, M20

Keeping Apace with the Tempo of Park Slope

Gastronomically speaking, there wasn't much to recommend this part of Park Slope less than a decade ago.  Pioneers like Cucina, Al di Là, and the erstwhile Vaux changed all that, however, and paved the way for what has become a restaurant row on Fifth Avenue.  After a 16-year run, Cucina's closing in 2004 left many regulars bereft.  Its reincarnation as Tempo that same year assuaged the grief, however.

Chef Michael Fiore made the transition from Cucina and infused his Italian-inspired dishes with other flavors from the Mediterranean, including those of France, Spain, and Morocco.  Add to that his unmistakably American accent, and voilà—Tempo!

The three-course, prix fixe menu ($32, Sunday through Thursday; $42, Friday and Saturday) offers a wide range of dishes to savor.  For my first course, I chose one of Tempo's signature dishes: Duck Pastilla Rolls (duck and almonds, sweetened with a Moroccan barbeque glaze, in a crisp feuille du bric wrapper).  The sweetness of the glaze was reminiscent of a Hoisin sauce and gave the dish a vaguely Asian flavor.  It was rather tasty, though I tend to prefer duck preparations to be more savory.

The bread and bean dip added a nice touch.

My main course was an Atlantic salmon atop a chickpea falafel on a bed of charred eggplant purée with sesame tahini.  The covering of radish and watercress salad added the necessary greenery.  The fish was tender and moist and seemed to blend well with its plate partners.  Since I dine on salmon often, this unusual preparation was a welcome change.

I should point out that Tempo offers a good selection of wines.  However, the cocktails are so refreshing that I drank them instead of wine with my meal.  The passion fruit Bellini made a delicious apéritif and was a nice variation of the popular drink made with white peach nectar.  The Pomegranate Margarita (made with PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur) proved to be a nice twist on the classic lime version.  With tasty libations like that, I didn’t really miss my wine that evening.

Selecting a dessert is, perhaps, the most difficult part of the meal.  Each one seems as tempting as the next.  Who can resist the New Orleans-style beignets with Café du Monde gelato or the passion fruit crème brûlée?  There are also artisanal cheeses available for an additional charge.  I finally decided upon the warm molten chocolate cake with caramel pecan crunch gelato.  Yum!

Tempo brings a sort of informal stylishness that was once a scarcity in this part of Brooklyn.  The décor of the dining room and wine bar is chic, yet casual.  In addition, the waitstaff is courteous, relaxed, and knowledgeable.  Above all, however, one is made to feel comfortable.  Keep up the Tempo!

  

Tempo

256 Fifth Avenue (bet. Carroll St & Garfield Pl), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 636-2020

http://www.tempobrooklyn.com/

By train: M,R to Union Street
By bus: B63

Marco Polo Turns 25

Last Tuesday marked the silver anniversary of Marco Polo Ristorante.  To celebrate, the famed Italian eatery is offering a three-course, prix fixe menu: $19.83 for lunch and $25 for dinner (to commemorate their inaugural year and their years in business, respectively).  The special menu is available for 25 days, from 5 June till the end of the month.

Seven starters are offered, including a soup-of-the-day, a salad, or one of the old favorites such as Carciofo alla Contadina (artichoke stuffed with breadcrumbs and cheese) and Calamari con Cannellini e Grano (squid served with cannellini beans and grain).

I chose the Mozzarella con Pomodoro e Basilico (homemade mozzarella with sliced tomato, basil, and extra virgin olive oil).  I probably should have ordered something else.  The fresh mozzarella was a bit dry and rubbery, and the tomatoes were, alas, commensurate with the season.  By contrast, I'd tried the stuffed artichoke on a previous visit and consider it to be a better choice.

There are a dozen secondi from which to select, including many traditional dishes like Pollo Scarpariello (chicken sautéed with garlic, white wine, rosemary, and lemon) and Vitello Piccata (veal scaloppini topped with artichokes in a white wine sauce), as well as fish, seafood, and vegetable dishes.

Happily, my second course made up for the disappointing appetizer.  I ordered the Salmone Tornado Alla Mostarda (salmon over spinach in a mustard sauce) but my waiter returned moments later to inform me that the salmon was no longer available.  The chef kindly offered to prepare a sole in a similar fashion.  It turned out to be an excellent substitution.  The sole was moist, flaky, and delicious.  The mashed potatoes were tasty, but oh, so rich.  A glass of pinot grigio made a fine accompaniment.

Sole over spinach with mashed potatoes and a glass of pinot grigio

Even though I dined relatively early, only two of the three listed desserts were available.  The Charlotte di Venezia (sponge cake filled with torrone gelato topped with hot chocolate sauce) sounded rather tempting, but I decided on the homemade Italian (ricotta) cheesecake.  It was creamy and tasty without being overly sweet—a good choice.

Marco Polo has aged gracefully over a quarter-century.  The dining room, decorated with iconic murals of Italy, maintains an old-world elegance without seeming pretentious.  Host Joseph Chirico and his staff are attentive and professional, and executive chef Bruno Milone seldom disappoints.  Congratulations, Marco Polo.

 

Marco Polo Ristorante

345 Court Street (SE corner Union St), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 852-5015

http://marcopoloristorante.com/

By train: to Carroll Street
By bus: B71, B75

 

Sanctuary's Quite the Teas

How about some refreshing iced tea on a hot day?  If you're in SoHo, consider stopping by Sanctuary T to celebrate their first annual Iced Tea Festival.  From now through 10 June, you can sample up to five of their daily blends gratis.

Beyond the five ready-made selections, Sanctuary T offers a dizzying selection of over 70 whole-leaf loose teas and flowering-art teas to be enjoyed in the restaurant or at home.  My favorites were the Blackberry Lemonade, Pineapple Rooibos, and Peppermint Moon.  Drink up!

Sanctuary T

337B West Broadway (NE corner Grand St), SoHo, Manhattan

(212) 941-7832

http://www.sanctuarytea.com/

By train: to Canal Street
By bus: M6 (uptown)

Carrying Coals to Morris Park

As a child, I took for granted that pizza was baked in an oven.  Since then, however, pizza preparation has become far more varied.  On a recent visit with my family in the Bronx, I had occasion to try a grilled pie at Coals, near the Albert Einstein College of Medicine in Morris Park.

Grilled pizza made its American debut in 1980 at Al Forno Restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island.  It's crisp, wafer-thin, with clearly visible grill marks, and bears a distinct, smoky-grilled flavor.  It's lighter than most pizzas I've tried.

Coals offers several varieties including the requisite Margherita, the Rustic, the Pure Bliss, and even a vegan pizza.  (Please click here for a menu.)   I tried the Dean Martin (small $7.50; large $14), an exquisitely delicate pie made with fontinella, fresh mozzarella, tomato, pepperoni, and pecorino.  (Two can share a large pie comfortably.)

In addition to pizza, Coals offers fine salads, a daily soup, panini, and burgers.  The sandwiches bear such interesting names as the Barbarino, Wacky Jackie, Fonzarelli, and Ben Cohen.  Some day I'd like to try the Muffuletta.

Unfortunately, I hadn't saved room for dessert, for I know what I'd have chosen:  a slice of the Bronx's own S&S Cheesecake with warm butterscotch.  Perhaps I should visit my family in Morris Park more often.

 

Coals

1888 Eastchester Road (near Morris Park Av), Morris Park, Bronx

(718) 823-7002

http://coalspizza.com/

By bus:  Bx21, Bx31
From Manhattan:  BxM10