Many years ago, one of my clients had recommended Burrito Loco for its authentic Mexican fare. I've dined there regularly ever since. The food is still good, but after 25 years, Jimmy Sanz's "crazy donkey" is becoming tired.
A large part of the Burrito Loco's allure has always been its fiesta-like atmosphere. This place was a lot of fun and provided a great escape. My most recent visit, however, left me with the impression that the party is winding down. The dining room's happy hour and its happy followers have apparently gone south. I was disappointed that several of the drink menu's fruit-flavored margaritas I'd come to enjoy were unavailable.
Burrito Loco's cocina, mirabile dictu, hasn't suffered. The guacamole (prepared tableside, $11), chips, and salsa are as fresh and lively as ever. On this occasion, we ordered two varieties of fajita. Our plates arrived with their sizzling contents of chicken and salmon ($14 and $17, respectively), sautéed with onions, tomatoes, and bell peppers, accompanied by rice, beans, guacamole, sour cream, and flour tortillas. Muy sabrosa.
The mood this time didn't seem quite right for us to order their spirituous coffees ($6.75). Without the dining room's customary festiveness, the spectacular presentations of the Café Burrito Loco or the Café Diablo—replete with dimmed house lights as the coffee drink is set aflame—would have been wasted.
Though I still enjoy the authentic Mexican food, I hope Burrito Loco can recapture some of its erstwhile conviviality and bring back the fun.
Burrito Loco
166 West 4th Street (bet. Jones & Cornelia Sts), West Village, Manhattan
(212) 675-1977
http://www.burritoloco.com/
By train: A,C,E,B,D,F,V to W 4th Street
By bus: M5,M6 (uptown)
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