A Farewell Toast to Summer and Maine

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A Farewell Toast to Summer and Maine

As we headed home from Deer Isle, we made a couple of stops along Maine's Wine Trail. Don't laugh; there are actually 18 wineries in the state. Planted only ten years ago, the Cellardoor Vineyard is Maine's oldest, and comprises grape varieties such as La Crescent, Riesling, Chardonnay, Traminette, Seyval Blanc, Concord, Elvira, Niagara, and Vidal Blanc. It is situated on a 68-acre property, some five miles from Camden Harbor, in a valley between Cameron and Levenseller Mountains. The owners fondly describe it as, "a little bit of Tuscany in the Camden Hills," and it indeed beckons the visitor to stroll amid its rolling terrain, pond, and colorful perennial gardens—as we did.

The beautifully restored 1790s barn-turned-tasting room affords scenic vistas to the six-acre vineyard and the hills beyond—through the large windows or from the outdoor deck. It's the sort of dramatic space one might expect to find in California's wine country. In addition to the tasting bar and tasteful display racks, there is a gift shop offering numerous gadgets and toys for the oenophile and casual wine drinker alike.

But how are the wines? Beyond all the discussion of "handcrafting," "tradition," and "Old World style," they tasted much as I had expected. In nearly every case, a small pour was sufficient. Among the grape wines, the Casa Blanca (Sauvignon Blanc, aged in oak) is, perhaps, the best. At $15.99, however, far better options exist elsewhere. The Queen Anne's Lace (a Vidal-Riesling blend) is Cellardoor's most popular. Its sweetness appeals to people who don't normally like wine, and, as such, is near the bottom of my list of $14.99 bottles. We ended up buying the Blue Lobster Blue ($14.99), a tart, oaked, blueberry wine. Unusual, yes, but a pleasant souvenir quaff all the same.

Even though the wines aren't among my favorites, the visit to Cellardoor was rather enjoyable. Sampling wines is always fun and doing so in such a lovely setting made our visit worthwhile.