Comestiblog

Drinks at Pat O'Brien's

After dinner, we return to the French Quarter and make our way up Bourbon Street.  When the sun sets, the area bustles with the effusive din of partyers determined to make merry.  We turn right onto Saint Peter and enter the carriageway of a 1791 building that once housed the first Spanish theatre in the United States.  This is Pat O'Brien's, home of the world-famous Hurricane—a fruity rum concoction that originated here in the early 1940s.  Albeit there's a wait for a table on the open-air Patio, it's well worth it.

Though I'm not particularly fond of sweet cocktails, I do make an exception with Pat O's Hurricane.  We delight in the aura of the Patio Bar's flaming fire fountain as we sip a New Orleans original under the night sky.

"Now I know why they call it a Hurricane:  the room was spinning when I got back to my hotel!" declared Brian, a colleague of mine from Canada, who thus described his baptism of fire here.  In truth, the cocktail isn't all that potent, but it is insidious—it's probably advisable to stop at three.  The real derivation of its name, incidentally, comes from the shape of the glass—similar to that of a hurricane lamp—in which the drink is served.  (Customers receive their logo glass as a souvenir as they leave.)

The upshot: follow the advice of Pat O'Brien's motto and Have Fun!

Pat O'Brien's

718 Saint Peter Street (between Bourbon & Royal Sts)
New Orleans, LA   70116-3119   (map)

(504) 525-4823

http://www.patobriens.com/

After stumbling out of Pat O's, consider taking in some of the other sights in the French Quarter …

 

Dinner at Mulate's

With so much to explore in New Orleans, there are countless ways in which to work up an appetite.  One particularly pleasant divertissement is a ride on the historic St. Charles Streetcar line to the Garden District.  Magnificent mansions of various architectural styles afford a delightful setting for an afternoon constitutional.  When evening arrives, we return to the Central Business District and prepare ourselves for an authentic Cajun dinner.

We pass Emeril's and follow Julia Street four blocks to our destination at the corner of Convention Center Boulevard.  A group of colleagues introduced me to Mulate's 14 years ago while we were in the Big Easy to attend a convention—I've been a fan of "the original Cajun restaurant" ever since.  From the street, we can hear the cavernous hall resonating les bon temps.  The party is already in full swing as we enter the circa 1885 Italianate warehouse.  A Cajun band is playing, people are dancing, and everyone appears to be having a good time.

In terms of food, Mulate's sets the standard for Cajun cooking.  From the gumbo to the alligator to the catfish to the crawfish to the jambalaya, this is the real deal.  We ordered the Catfish Mulate's—a seasoned fillet, lightly floured, grilled, and topped with crawfish étouffée.  Jambalaya, sautéed vegetables, and a twice-baked potato filled out the remainder of the plate.  Beer was the perfect libation to accompany the food, music, and checkered napery.  With everything having been prepared to perfection, this remains one of the tastiest Cajun meals I can recall.

Catfish Mulate's

Celebrating its nineteenth year in New Orleans, Mulate's continues its tradition of blending authentic Cajun food, music, and culture with reasonable prices.  Though I prefer the shack-like ambiance of the original Mulate's in Breaux Bridge, the large space on Julia Street has its own charms—to say nothing of its easier accessibility to conventioneers.

 

Mulate's Restaurant

201 Julia Street (NW corner Convention Center Blvd)
New Orleans, LA   70130-1622   (map)

(800) 854-9149
(504) 522-1492

http://mulates.com/

By streetcar:  Riverfront Line to Julia Street

Riverwalk and Convention Center across the street

 

Lunch at Central Grocery

There's nothing like a stroll through the French Quarter to help burn a few breakfast calories.  As we wend our way through the charming streets, we pause at various landmarks, museums, and shops.  After a visit to the French Market, it's time for lunch.

Would having a sandwich be too banal in this epicurean city?  Yes, if it were an ordinary ham-and-cheese or something of that sort.  But I have an extraordinary kind in mind—a Muffuletta (pronounced "moof·fuh·LET·tah," often abbreviated, simply, to "muff").  It's made with a fresh, round loaf of Italian bread, onto which generous quantities of imported salami, ham, cheese, mortadella, and special olive salad are layered, and served at room temperature.  (Don't even think of asking to have it warmed!)  This is one big, tasty sandwich that easily feeds two people.  Half a sandwich at midday is ample—especially if one is still planning to have dinner.

As we cross Decatur Street and enter Central Grocery, we take a step backward through time.  The old-fashioned Italian-American emporium that proclaims itself to be the "home of the original Muffuletta" gives the impression of having forgone any sort of redecoration since its founding in 1906.  Apparently, there's no need to change—this place draws visitors from all corners of the globe.  No trip to New Orleans is complete without a stop here.  The Muffuletta's putative place of origin is also where the sandwich reaches its acme of perfection.  Purportedly, it was created here by Salvatore Lupo the same year he founded the grocery.  Though time seems to have stood still at Central Grocery, its most famous product remains a timeless classic.

Central Grocery Co.

923 Decatur Street  (between N. Peters & St. Philip Sts)
New Orleans, LA   70116-3307   (map)

(504) 523-1620

 

Breakfast at Brennan's

Breakfast at Brennan's is something everyone should try at least once.  Situated in the French Quarter, this lovely dining spot has been a Crescent City phenomenon since 1946.  Owen Edward Brennan's elegant culinary namesake evokes images of New Orleans French aristocrats sipping wine and enjoying leisurely breakfasts on the patio nestled among exotic plants and redolent magnolia blossoms, cooled by Palmetto fans.

Eggs Sardou (foreground) and Eggs Hussarde

We began our aristocratic breakfast with an "eye opener" called Fleur de Lis—Champagne with Grand Marnier and Lillet Blanc.  (One might think of it as orange juice with a kick.)  With appetites whetted, we were ready for our main course.  My Comestaccomplice ordered the Eggs Sardou (poached eggs on artichoke bottoms in a bed of creamed spinach and covered with Hollandaise sauce) while I chose the signature Eggs Hussarde (poached eggs atop Holland rusks, Canadian Bacon, and Marchand de Vin sauce, topped with Hollandaise sauce).  Ahhh … If only all eggs were this good!

Crêpes Fitzgerald (aflame, left) and Bananas Foster (right)

To finish on a sweet note, we ordered two Brennan's originals:  the Crêpes Fitzgerald (crêpes filled with cream cheese and sour cream, topped with strawberries flambéed with marischino liqueur) and the signature Bananas Foster (bananas sautéed in butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, and banana liqueur, flambéed in rum, and served over vanilla ice cream).

What a delicious way to start the day!

Brennan's

417 Royal Street (between Conti & St. Louis Sts)
New Orleans, LA   70130-2103   (map)

(504) 525-9711

http://www.brennansneworleans.com/

 

Laissez les Bon Temps Rouler!

The carnival festival that portends the coming of lent is winding down.  With celebrations culminating today, Mardi Gras (literally, "Fat Tuesday," the eve of Ash Wednesday), I thought I'd share a few of my favorite New Orleans memories with you.

The following posts could represent a food-filled day in the Big Easy:  Breakfast at Brennan's, Lunch at Central Grocery, Dinner at Mulate's, and Drinks at Pat O'Brien's.  Where ya at?  Hungry?  Let's begin with breakfast in the French Quarter.

Jackson Square (Place d'Armes) in the French Quarter

Comestiblab:  The word carnival comes from the Italian carnevale, an alteration of the older carnelevare (from carne, flesh, meat + levare, to remove (from Latin levare, to raise)).  Thus, the literal translation of carnival is, "removal of meat."

A Taste of Valentine's Day 2009

Champagne and chocolate are not necessarily ideal partners, but they're not bad together—especially if both are free.  Join Le Dû's Wines from 3:00 P.M. till 6:00 P.M. for a Valentine's Day tasting of Georges Gardet Cuvée Saint Flavy, Henriot Brut Souverain, and Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 2002, as well as a sampling of the exquisite chocolates of Jacques Torres—all gratis.  Not a bad way to set the mood …

Le Dû's Wines

600 Washington Street (between Morton & Leroy Sts), West Village, Manhattan
3:00 P.M. to 6:00 P.M.  Free.

(212) 924-6999

http://www.leduwines.com/

By train: 1 to Houston Street
By bus: M8, M20, M21

Valentine's Day Sweets for Your Sweetie

Since its American debut in New York, Fauchon had topped our list of favorite chocolatiers.  To enter the elegant Park Avenue salon de thé was to step into a little corner of Paris; to sample their ethereal wares was to taste a little piece of heaven.  Sadly, our special seller of sublime sweets shuttered its Manhattan outpost last year.  While Fauchon's closing may have left a cavity in the Big Apple, other fine purveyors around town have reduced the void with their superb chocolate fillings.

The Paris-based La Maison du Chocolat was our chocolatier of choice until the arrival of Fauchon.  The House of Chocolate's exquisitely crafted cacao creations—including the Dark Ganache with Two Vanillas (made with Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar and aromatic beans from Tahiti) and the masterly Dark Ganache Porcelana (a Maison du Chocolat exclusive, made with the Venezuelan Porcelana bean)—are available in various Stitches of Love Valentine's Day collections.  Prices for the assortments range from $15 (for a box of four) to $85 (for a box of 39).

While I enjoy the large selection at La Maison du Chocolat's premier boutique on the Upper East Side, I prefer the quiet and convenience of the new location on Wall Street.

Should you fancy French chocolates with a Brooklyn twist, you could look to our own (somewhat) local hero, Jacques Torres.  Originally from Bandol, France (a small, seaside resort town in the south of Provence), the self-proclaimed Mr. Chocolate established his first factory along with a diminutive retail shop in D.U.M.B.O. (the lowland between the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges—a former paper-box manufacturing area once known as Gairville).  His December, 2000 opening came at a time when that deserted part of Brooklyn had little else to recommend it.  My late wife and I were among Jacques Torres' first customers; I remain a devotee.

Jacques Torres' spaces are more approachable and his prices are more accessible than those of the upscale Parisian-styled boutiques.  And Mr. Chocolate seems to convey a greater sense of fun.  Valentine's Day treats like The Spanker ($12; "it's sure to leave a mark!"), Body Paint, Love Tonic, and Body Butter ($9 apiece; "don't make us give you instructions…") demonstrate a sort of playfulness not readily apparent at La Maison du Chocolat or the erstwhile Fauchon.  Of course, Jacques also offers various artisanal collections ranging from the seven-piece Heart Truffle Box ($10.50) to the 50-piece Champagne Kisses ($57.50) as well as the large, 34-piece heart-shaped box of bonbons ($49).  I opted to create my own assortment of 25 quasi-Valentine's Day chocolates ($33, please see below).  Chocolate was never so much fun!

My personal selection. (The hexagonal Liquid Caramel was my late wife's favorite.)

In addition to expanding his original D.U.M.B.O. space, Jacques Torres has opened shops on Hudson Street and on Amsterdam Avenue in Manhattan.  The newest store (and the first outside New York) is scheduled to open next month in Traverse City, Michigan.

 

Fauchon

http://www.fauchon.com/

 

La Maison du Chocolat (Manhattan)

1018 Madison Avenue (between 78^th & 79^th Sts), Upper East Side
(212) 744-7117

30 Rockefeller Center, Midtown
(212) 265-9404

63 Wall Street (near Hanover St), Financial District
(212) 952-1123

http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/

 

Jacques Torres

66 Water Street, D.U.M.B.O., Brooklyn
(718) 875-9772

350 Hudson Street (SE corner King St), South Village, Manhattan
(212) 414-2462

285 Amsterdam Avenue (between 73^rd & 74^th Sts), Upper West Side, Manhattan
(212) 787-3256

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

Gut-Wrenching Peanut Butter

Latest reports indicate that the peanut butter-borne salmonella outbreak is responsible for 575 illnesses and possibly eight deaths in 43 states.  As a result, over 1,550 products have been recalled nationwide. 

For a list of recalled items, please visit the FDA's website at the address below:

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/peanutbutterrecall/index.cfm

Landry's, Gateway to Tampa

My visits to Tampa, Florida customarily begin and end at Landry's at Rocky Point.  The restaurant's proximity to Tampa International Airport and its lovely waterfront setting make it a convenient and relaxing dining spot—indoors or alfresco—before or after a flight.

As its name implies, Landry's Seafood House specializes in sea fare—with a bayou flair.  While dishes featuring catfish, grouper, red snapper, redfish, mahi-mahi, and gulf shrimp showcase the Gulf of Mexico's bounty, toppings such as Pontchartrain (creamy white wine sauce with mushrooms and jumbo lump crabmeat), crawfish étouffée (a tan roux with sautéed crawfish tails), and Acadiana (crawfish tails and corn pico de gallo in an Andouille cream sauce) add a savory Louisiana touch.  Aside from its seafood offerings, the menu throws a bone to landlubbers in the form of a few beef and fowl dishes.  Salads, pastas, burgers, and sandwiches are also available.

Though the wine list is unexceptional, it does offer a reasonable number of selections by the glass.  On my last visit, however, I forwent my usual libation in favor of Landry's signature drink: the 21-ounce Mai Tai ($7.99), a cocktail made with light and dark rums, Crème de Noyaux (an almond-flavored liqueur made from fruit pits), pineapple juice, and sweet-and-sour mix.  Its tropical flavors were quite refreshing.

Fried Oysters with steak fries and onion strings

Starters I've sampled have tended to be somewhat oily and insipid.  The Fried Calamari ($8.99 lunch; $9.99 dinner) is a typical example: it's greasy, limp, and considerably less tasty than similar preparations at other restaurants.  I've found the soups to be a better choice.  Landry's New England Clam Chowder ($4.99 lunch; $5.99/$7.99 dinner), for instance, is quite delectable (though its subtle smoky flavor diminishes its authenticity slightly).

All main courses include Landry's Famous Salad Bowl—a satisfying, unlimited serving of fresh greens, tossed tableside.  (The creamy, golden Italian dressing, incidentally, is a superior alternative to the standard vinaigrette.)  A tasty loaf of hot, crunchy garlic bread accompanies the salad.  (Please note that within the past year, garlic bread is served upon request only.  Be sure to issue your request!)

For my main course, I usually order a broiled, fresh fish.  I particularly enjoy the firm, moist Gulf Snapper ($18.99 lunch; $21.99 dinner) blackened ($1 additionally).  The Cajun-style seasoning complements the snapper's mild, nutty flavor perfectly—thus rendering the small cup of dipping sauce superfluous.  The rich and flavorful vegetable risotto is a well-chosen accompaniment.  I can also recommend the Catfish Fillets ($9.99 lunch; $16.99 dinner), another of my favorites.

Blackened Gulf Snapper with vegetable risotto

While I've never tried Landry's Bananas Foster (their signature dessert), I recommend the Key Lime Pie ($5.99)—a pleasing combination of sweetness and lime.  (My choice is based on a bifurcated desire to preserve my fond memories of Brennan's musaceous original and to enjoy a native citrus pie whose authentic confection is scarce outside Florida.)

Although Landry's has served as my welcoming gateway to the Tampa Bay area for some time, its overall atmosphere has suffered a decline since the departure of general manager Howard Cohen (the last to have his name inscribed on the front door) a couple of years ago.  Most notably, the reception and service now seem to lack their erstwhile vitality and spirit.  The food quality remains rather good, but the mood has waned somewhat.  I sincerely hope Landry's management will turn the corner soon.

Landry's Seafood House

7616 West Courtney Campbell Causeway (SR 60)
Tampa, FL   33607-1432   (map)

(813) 289-7773

http://www.landrysseafoodhouse.com/

Every sixth meal is free (up to $7.99 for lunch or $9.99 for dinner) with Landry's Free Meal Ticket.

Not a Super Guide to Tampa

The free, passport-sized Zagat guide—From Tailgating to Touchdowns—that was thrust into the hands of all who arrived at Tampa International Airport over the past several days contains an underwhelming five pages of reviews.  It's hard to understand how—or why, for that matter—the list was compiled.  Of the 20 restaurants named, more than half belong to a chain and several are situated more than an hour's drive from Tampa.  Trendy nightlife areas, such as Ybor City and Channelside, were left unrepresented.  (Incredibly, Columbia, Florida's oldest restaurant, received nary a mention.)  Local flavor seems to have been kept to a minimum.  One would think Zagat could have done a little better than this.

Cocoa-Loco at City Bakery

Ever try an Arabian Nights or Earl Grey Tea hot chocolate?  Baker-and-owner Maury Rubin tempts us with these and other daily flavors throughout February at his 17^th Annual City Bakery Hot Chocolate Festival.  Other creative con-cocoa-tions include the ever-popular Banana Peel, the Sunken Treasure, the Passion Fruit Cream, the Hot Chocolate A-Go Go, and, on Valentine's Day, the Love Potion.  Since City Bakery hasn't a license to serve alcohol, it'll be interesting to taste the Beer and Bourbon cocoas.  The festival culminates with a surprise finale on the 28^th.

The City Bakery

3 West 18^th Street (near Fifth Av), Flatiron District, Manhattan

(212) 366-1414

http://www.hotchocolatefestival.com/

By train: 4,5,6 (IRT),N,Q,R,W (BMT),F,V (IND),PATH to 14^th Street

By bus: M1, M2, M3, M5, M6, M7