Comestiblog

Leña Got Its Mojo Working

Owing to my dislike of fast food and to my usual hurried pace when I'm in the Herald Square area, I seldom dine in this part of Manhattan.  All that has changed, however, with the recent opening of Leña, a pan-Latin grill that caters to budget-minded gourmets on the go.  Their fresh, seasonal, and delicious meals are prepared to order and served quickly.

For those who don't know that Leña (pronounced LEHN·yuh) means "firewood" in Spanish, a rack of logs along the top of the dining room wall should provide a good indication of the restaurant's preferred method of cooking.  Should that not suffice, however, a window to the wood-burning grill in the back ought to eliminate any doubt.

Having spent a dozen years working with the likes of Mario Batali, Eric Ripert, Jonathan Waxman, and Andre Balazs, Leña's executive chef-owner Ronny Abenhaim is no stranger to haute cuisine.  Noting the ubiquity of Mexican eateries in New York, he sought to offer an alternative that showcases flavors from a broader range of Latin American kitchens.  As popular examples, Ronny cites chimichurri (from Argentina) and his signature coconut rice (from the coastal region of his native Colombia).  Intended to suit busy schedules, his menu features wraps, salads, and plates that are designed to please discriminating palates.  Diners select one of four proteins—chicken, steak, fish, or tofu—to be combined with a choice of sauce, additions, or sides.  Ronny is fond of noting that one can dine at Leña for a month without having the same meal twice.

Grilled Chicken Plate with Coconut Rice and Tostones

On a recent luncheon, I ordered the Grilled Chicken Plate ($9.50) with an addition of the aforementioned coconut rice, and a side of tostones.  Overnight brining and subsequent wood-grilling result in a flavorful bird that delivers the right degree of smokiness.  It's hard to imagine a better partner to the savory chicken than the perfectly cooked coconut rice.  Every forkful of its subtle sweetness tastes almost like a dessert with the main course.

I was never fond of tostones until I tried the ones here.  Ronny prepares them by slicing green (unripe) plantains, then frying, smashing, and soaking them in a saline-garlic solution, and finally frying them again to make them crispy.  They're great with pico de gallo, and even better with mojo (pronounced MO·ho), an oil infused with roasted garlic cloves and chili flakes.

Yuca (or cassava) fries are another staple in Latin American cooking.  Their mild flavor and starchy texture make them a sine qua non among South Americans.  Conceivably, one could order them with the beef option to yield a Leñan variation of steak frites.

Grilled Chicken Salad

The Grilled Chicken Salad ($7.95) consisted of sliced chicken over lettuce, topped with pico de gallo.  Though my Comestaccomplice asked about adding guacamole, Ronny suggested she try queso fresco (a crumbly "fresh" cow's milk cheese) instead.  He described its slightly acidic flavor as being similar to, but milder than that of feta.  The upshot: my dining partner will not order that salad again without it!

Grilled Skirt Steak (left) and Tilapia (right)

While the chicken remains my favorite, the steak and fish are delicious as well.  The marinated tofu affords a good vegetarian option, but does not reflect my first choice.  Selecting the right sauce(s) to accompany the protein is, of course, a matter of taste.  Nevertheless, certain pairings are particularly successful.  To wit, chimichurri (a mixture of cilantro, parsley, garlic, chili flakes, olive oil, and rice vinegar) goes especially well with skirt steak, and brown butter partners very nicely with tilapia.  Although pico de gallo is considered de rigueur with chicken, I prefer Leña's smoky chili pepper sauce—a fiery blend of charred peppers and tomatoes—to accompany my pollo.  The pickled onions, also considered to be a sauce, are excellent as well.  On a future visit, I'd like to try the smoky domestic blue cheese dressing with my steak.

Clockwise (from top): Blue Cheese, Pico de Gallo, Smoky Chili Pepper, Chimichurri, Pickled Onions, Mojo; center: Leña's BBQ Sauce

The fresh-squeezed juices are delicious and thirst-quenching.  We'd requested the least sweet, and while lemonade fit the bill, we weren't so sure about the passion fruit.  But once again, it was a winner.  Its rich taste affords hints of sweetness initially, but delivers a refreshingly tart and slightly earthy finish.  Like the passion fruit, the tamarind is pleasingly tart as well.  Its wealth of antioxidants and other healthful properties—such as those that promote cardiac and digestive wellness—make it a top choice.

Alfajor (with a Dulce de Leche center)

To finish on a sweet note, a confection that has many variants in the Americas: alfajor (pronounced ull·fuh·HORR).  Based on the Argentinean variety, Leña's is a cookie sandwich in which two biscuits are joined together by a dulce de leche center, and coated with coconut flakes along the edge.  With the sweetness of a fig, it's pleasant without being cloying.  It's a sweet way to end any meal.

Leña provides a new, fresh option for breakfast and lunch in the Herald Square area.  The crowds say it all: offer people a delicious variety of fresh and wholesome food at bargain prices, serve it in a friendly and speedy manner, and customers will beat a path to your door.

Leña Latin Grill

34 West 35^th Street (between Fifth & Sixth Avs),
Midtown Manhattan

(646) 274-1995

Open Monday through Saturday, 7:00 A.M. till 5:00 P.M.

https://www.lenanyc.com/
https://www.facebook.com/pages/New-York-NY/Lena-Latin-Grill/

By train:  to 34 St-Herald Sq
                  (exit at SE corner 35^th St)
             or  _{PATH to 33 St}

By bus:  M4, M5, Q32

CiderDays in Franklin County, Massachusetts

It's apple season!  Wassail at a weekend getaway to CiderDays in the Franklin County hills of Western Massachusetts.  Celebrating its sixteenth anniversary, this two-day festival includes orchard tours, tastings, workshops, and more.  It's a delightful occasion to sample unfamiliar apple varieties, as well as fresh and hard cider, and other apple products.

Please visit their website for more information and a complete schedule of events.

Franklin County CiderDays

6 & 7 November 2010

https://www.ciderdays.org/

(Map & Directions)

Moving up the Pyramida

While experimenting with a new restaurant can have its risks, dining at the new Pyramida Grill is a pretty safe bet.  To be accurate, this Mediterranean Upper East Sider is new in location and scale only.  Co-owners and chefs Matthew Koven and Roger Ramkissoon wanted to "do something big" when, less than three months ago, they moved from their small take-out spot on 78^th Street into a spacious, full-service restaurant at the corner of 73^rd and Second Avenue.  Their new digs are inviting, as are the food, the service, and the prices.

Sticklers for quality, Matt and Roger pride themselves on using fresh, homemade ingredients only.  Their menu is the same for lunch and dinner and offers healthful items that suit appetites both large and small.  It features a wide array of starters, sandwiches, wraps, salads, and mains, as well as a number of vegetarian plates.  (A weekend brunch menu was introduced recently.)  Nothing I tried disappointed.

Pita bread with olive spread and sweet pea purée

In addition to familiar appetizers such as Hummus, Babaganoush, Tabouli, and Tzatziki, Pyramida tempted me with some unique diversions.  Pumpkin Gloria, for example, is a very popular starter made from calabaza, a type of sweet squash often called West Indian pumpkin.  Named for Roger's mother (the recipe's originator), the dish is seasoned with onion, garlic, and cumin—no additional sweetener is used.  Though available throughout the year, it seems custom-made for autumn.

Some of my other favorite starters include Baigan & Aloo (sautéed eggplant and potato), Sweet Pea Purée, and Curry Cabbage Salad with pistachio and pine nuts.  I've saved one of the best for last, however.  The New York Times described Pyramida's as "first-rate falafel."   The spherical deep-fried ground chickpeas—seasoned with garlic, cumin, and pepper—are extremely good indeed.  It seems The Gray Lady got it right.  The majority of starters and sides are priced $5.95 for a small portion; $8.50 for a medium one.  Should a single appetizer not suffice, any three salads or spreads may be combined to create a custom Appetizer Sampler for $11.95.

Falafel

Most of the main courses are priced under $20.  Though I tend to prefer fish, I find Pyramida's meat plates irresistible.  Subtle yet flavorful, the dishes don't require aggressive seasoning to taste good.  For instance, a major factor in the delectability of both the chicken and lamb Shish Kebab ($17.95 and $18.95, respectively) is that their spices aren't allowed to overwhelm the natural flavors of the meat.  The same is true of the Kofta ($17.95), a tasty minced beef preparation.  If I had to single out a favorite, however, it would be the exquisite Lamb Gyro ($16.95).  Succulent, well-prepared, and, yes, perfectly seasoned, this dish is simply delish!  But for those unable to settle on one particular meat, I'd recommend the Ultimate Meat Combo ($19.95).

Meat combo: Chicken, Lamb, and Kofta

Should it be necessary to "fire up your food," there's Roger's Homemade Hot Sauce—a mixture of Scotch bonnet (a relative of the habanero), garlic, lemons, carrots, pumpkin, and salt.  (The use of lemon is a welcome departure from the vinegar often found in other piquant sauces.)  "Tell us how hot you want it … on a scale of 1 to 10.  10 being burn your face."  While Roger's sauce may be quite hot and peppery, my visage managed to escape immolation.

There are very good side dishes as well.  For example, Pyramida's version of Peas & Carrots spices up an old workhorse with delicious results.  Furthermore, I found Matt and Roger's preparations of Lentil and Saffron Rice to be perfect.

Saffron and Lentil Rice

With Pyramida's beer-and-wine license just days away, I tried their famous Freshly Squeezed Lemonade ($4.50).  Zesty, frothy, refreshing, and not too sweet, it's no wonder New York Magazine named it "NY's best lemonade" three years in a row.  The recipe is simple: fresh-squeezed lemons, a little sugar, and water.  This is how lemonade should taste.

I'm not sure whether I'd saved enough room for dessert, but I indulged anyway.  Everything except the ice cream here is homemade.  With two types of baklava ($6.95 each), it was hard to choose.  Both the Classic (almonds and walnuts) and the Cashewlava (cashews only) delivered a satisfying finish without being overly sweet.  It may seem odd, but the latter's flavors reminded me of a baked brie.

Cashewlava (top), Classic Baklava (bottom)

Baked to order and served hot, the Outrageous Warm Chocolate Truffles ($8.95) are an encapsulation of a cacao lover's dream.  "No fork!  And don't squeeze too hard," insists Roger as he instructs me to use my fingers to roll each truffle in confectioner's sugar and then pop it into my mouth, whole.  My gentlest bite released a veritable chocolate explosion!  These truffles are what is meant by a melt-in-your-mouth dessert.

"Outrageous" Warm Chocolate Truffles

Though Pyramida's tasty homemade dishes are still available for take-out and (free) delivery, their expansion into a full-service restaurant is a welcome addition.  Matt and Roger's commitment to freshness and quality are evident in everything they prepare.  And with a grade of A from the New York City Department of Health, the new Pyramida is a pretty safe bet indeed.

Pyramida Grill

1402 Second Avenue (SE corner 73^rd Street),
Upper East Side, Manhattan

(212) 472-5855

https://pyramidanyc.com/

By train:  to 77 St
By bus:  M15, M72