Comestiblog

Dine Out for Japan Relief

The Asian Pacific Americans, a volunteer employee organization at NBC Universal and its partners at azix inc., together with the Japanese American Association, the New York Restaurant Organization (NYSRA), FEED, and the restaurant industry, have organized the Dine Out for Japan Relief campaign taking place at various restaurants in the greater New York area.  From Wednesday, 23 March through Wednesday, 30 March, participating restaurants will donate a portion of their proceeds from breakfast, lunch, and dinner to the Red Cross to assist the tsunami relief efforts in Japan.

Please visit the websites below for more information and a list of participating restaurants:

http://www.nysra.org/DineOutforJapan
http://www.nbcnewyork.com/on-air/community/
http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=195763103797615

High and Dry at Giando on the Water

It's hard to imagine a more spectacular space in which to dine than the one at Brooklyn's Giando on the Water.  Situated at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge, this old-line Italian-American restaurant takes full advantage of its location along the East River.  Its soaring ceilings, glass walls, and sparkling opulence provide an ideal setting for watching the sun descend through the screen of the Manhattan skyline.  Bundle the foregoing elements with easy access and ample parking, and Giando would seem to be the quintessential special-occasion venue—for a wedding party, family reunion, or other catered affair.  The very best reason to visit, however, is to lose yourself in the eyes of your date, when distractions such as food and wine are unnecessary, or even unwelcome.  Go for the romance, because you're certainly not going there for the food.

The meals aren't bad, they're simply banal.  Perhaps this point was emphasized by the sharp contrast between the extraordinary surroundings and the extremely ordinary comestibles.  But the upshot is that the food is unmemorable, in the most literal way.  What was the sauce on my salmon?  Something a little buttery?  Did my Comestaccomplice have the Chicken Piccata, or was it Francese?  I had to rely solely on my dining notes for all my recollections.

Insalata Capricciosa

For the record, I ordered the Broiled Salmon Dijon (listed on the menu as "De Jon").  Hints of mustard enhanced the fish slightly, but the flavorless broccoli and forgettable potatoes made this seem like a dish that could have been served at Olive Garden.  My Comestaccomplice's Chicken al Limone was of the same caliber: a little lemony and a lot ordinary.  The Insalata Capricciosa, er, salad, wasn't quite up to the aforementioned Olive Garden's standards.  (And it didn't even come with breadsticks!)  For dessert, the so-called Homemade Chocolate Cake seemed industrial.

Broiled Salmon Dijon

The wine list had its own problems.  It's wildly overpriced, with offerings that do battle with the many lighter and more subtle menu offerings.  We'd finally found one bottle that would complement our dishes, but apparently so had everyone else: it was sold out.  We couldn't find a single other bottle that would suit our main courses.  This may have been the only moderate-to-fine-dining meal at which my dining partner and I had forgone some sort of alcoholic beverage.  Even if it's a glass of wine, a beer, or a mixed drink, we invariably enjoy some type of libation at dinner.  We tried hard, honestly we did, but it simply couldn't happen in light of Giando's offerings.

Chicken al Limone

At least we had the beautiful setting and well-trained waitstaff at our disposal … well, sort of.  Once it became clear that there was to be no wine served to us, we were all but abandoned in favor of the two or three other tables occupied that evening.  (The staff-to-customer ratio was close to par.)  Since the 20% service charge is obligatory, why bother making any effort to earn it?

Homemade Chocolate Cake

There was little benefit to visiting here for the Dine In Brooklyn promotion.  As it turns out, Giando on the Water offers three-course Prima sera specials all year (Monday through Friday) for $25.95.  For the two of us, the restaurant-week savings amounted to less than two dollars.  Perhaps I shouldn't be too critical, however.  Three courses and a magnificent view for $25 isn't all that bad.

Giando on the Water

400 Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn   (map)

(718) 387-7000

http://www.giandoonthewater.com/

By train:  to Marcy Av
By bus:  Q59

Exploration Dining at Albert Hall Tavern

As a food writer, I often receive requests to mention some product or event on my blog.  Happily, I'm able to manage most such solicitations with the single click of a mouse.  Occasionally, however, I find something very appealing in my electronic mailbox.  For instance, a recent invitation to a soirée that included gourmet food, artisanal beer, and a membership to a unique dining club, was a food blogging perquisite I couldn't resist.

The event, held at Hell's Kitchen's Albert Hall Tavern, featured eight tasting-sized courses, each paired with a different libation.  Its purpose was to introduce me and like-minded food enthusiasts to [exploration] dining, a members-only community that offers 50% discounts at some of New York's "secrets to be discovered."  Affording various additional benefits, the club "offers New Yorkers a reason to go out and explore their city," explained its founder and CEO Alex Bartosch.  Let the exploration begin …

Raw Bar: Malpaque (left) and Blue Point (right)

Let's kick off our dining exploration with a review of the evening's comestibles, beer, and tequila.  Tequila?  ¡Sí!  Our tasting commenced with a raw bar, comprising Malpaques and Blue Points (from the nearby Sea Breeze Fish Market), paired with a sample of Patrón Silver and a subsequent taste of the triple-distilled, slightly aged Gran Patrón Platinum.  (Were you aware that a co-founder of Paul Mitchell Systems—John Paul DeJoria—was also one of the founders of The Patrón Spirits Company?)  Produced from 100% Weber blue agave, both tequilas are smooth and sweet, and have a peppery finish.  With oysters, they're a potent alternative to Chablis, and a marvelous way to start an evening!

Screaming Oysters from Hell

Deep-fried oysters followed the raw variety.  The spicy-hot Screaming Oysters from Hell is one of Albert Hall Tavern's signature appetizers.  Executive chef Bill Seleno kindles an insidious fire with Sambal Oelek, and presents his infernal [s]hellfish atop slices of sweet pineapple to produce an underworldly flavor sensation.  If this is hell, I'm liable to commit many additional sins.  The mollusks were paired with Stone Pale Ale, Stone Brewing Company's "Southern California interpretation of the classic British pale ale style."  Light and hoppy, this ale kept the oysters' flames under control.

Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg

It was back to raw for our next course, Tuna Tartare with Quail Egg.  Though perhaps a bit salty, this dish was absolutely delicious.  (I should admit, however, to being very partial to tuna.)  It was accompanied by Estrella Galicia, a somewhat light lager, considered by some to be northern Spain's equivalent of Coors.  Regardless of comparisons with Rocky Mountain brews, it goes great with fish.

Deviled Braised Short Rib with Horseradish and Mustard Seed

Next, the Deviled Braised Short Rib with Horseradish and Mustard Seed added some meat to the menu.  Served on toast, its tangy and spicy flavors were enhanced by the sweetness of Brouwerij Bosteels's Tripel Karmeliet, a three-grain (wheat, oats, and barley) Belgian beer, brewed using a 17^th-century recipe.  Gentle on the palate, it adds body to any dish it accompanies.

Pickled Sardines with Fennel Pollen Meyer Lemon Cream

We returned to the sea for our next course.  To be honest, the Pickled Sardines with Fennel Pollen Meyer Lemon Cream was my least favorite dish of the evening.  I'm not fond of fennel, and I didn't find these sardines particularly compelling.  Overall, this sample from the bar menu wasn't bad, but I'd probably not order it on a future visit.  Nevertheless, Gaffel Kölsch from Cologne, Germany was the perfect foil for this preparation.  The Becker Brothers brew is rich, somewhat light, yet slightly bitter at the same time.  It's another fine beer to pair with fish.

Grilled Radicchio with Trifoline Cheese and Butternut Squash Carpaccio

Our salad arrived next.  I could readily taste the garlic in the Grilled Radicchio with Trifoline Cheese and Butternut Squash Carpaccio.  Chef Seleno's combination of the foregoing elements yielded a harmonious mix of flavors.  The sweetness of the butternut squash partnered well with that of La Brasserie de St-Sylvestre's Gavroche French Red Ale.  The fruity sweetness of this Bière sur Lie (beer on its lees) comes from a special top-fermenting yeast that produces a re-fermentation in the bottle.

Steamed Mussels with Charred Rosemary and Black Garlic

I should like to introduce the next course by mentioning that I typically have little inclination to order mussels.  But oh, those garlic aromas wafting from Chef Seleno's Steamed Mussels with Charred Rosemary and Black Garlic!  Perhaps owing to the dominance of the fermented (black) garlic, I found these mollusks to be exceptionally flavorful.  (I made good use of the crusty bread to finish whatever broth remained.)  Appropriately, they were paired with a German Pilsner that did not attempt to make any powerful statements.  Radeberger, a highly effervescent pale golden lager with a hoppy bitterness, is a very good palate cleanser that could also serve as a fine companion to German Würste.

Executive Chef Bill Seleno's Pièce de Résistance

Our final course, Roasted Suckling Pig with Maple Rum, was the evening's pièce de résistance.  It was tender, succulent, and flavorful—everything I'd expect from a suckling pig.  Any initial concerns over the sweetness of the maple rum were dispelled with my first bite.  As delicious as it was, however, I found that just the lightest sprinkle of salt added the perfect finishing touch.

Roasted Suckling Pig with Maple Rum

What beer to serve with such an exquisite dish?  Something with strong flavors of hops?  Should it be sweet or dry?  The answers appeared in a bottle of Hop Rod Rye from California's Bear Republic.  This hoppy Healdsburg IPA is brewed with 18% rye malt to give it a dry spiciness that is delicious with or without food.  What a marvelous beer with which to finish!

Albert Hall Tavern

508 Ninth Avenue (between 38^th & 39^th Sts),
Hell's Kitchen (Clinton), Manhattan   (map)

(646) 490-4803

http://www.alberthalltavern.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Albert-Hall-Tavern

By train:  to 42 St-Port Authority Bus Terminal

By bus:  M11, M16, M104

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http://www.explorationdining.com/
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Exploration-Dining