Comestiblog

National Cheesecake Day at Junior's

For more than sixty years, generations of New Yorkers have visited Junior's Restaurant to eat, kibbitz, and indulge in a slice of the fabulous cheesecake.  So popular was their dessert that, when the restaurant caught fire in 1981, horrified onlookers shouted, "Save the cheesecake!"  My most fabulous friends asked me to spread the word about their National Cheesecake Day celebration taking place a week from today.  On 30 July 2015, dine-in guests who order an entrée at any of the four Junior's locations will receive a slice of cheesecake (any variety) at half-price.  (One slice per guest.)

Junior's Restaurant

386 Flatbush Avenue Extension
Brooklyn, N.Y.  11201-5331  (map)

(718) 852-5257

By train:  to DeKalb Av
             or   to Nevins St

Please visit their website for other locations

http://www.juniorscheesecake.com/

Tbilisi Keeps Georgia on My Mind

For most of its existence, my palate has not enjoyed much exposure to the gastronomic delights from the crossroads of Asia and Europe.  A recent visit to Tbilisi on Kings Highway in Gravesend, Brooklyn, however, afforded me a fine introduction to the marvelous flavors of Georgian cooking.

თბილისი, the Georgian spelling of Tbilisi

Simple and unassuming, this restaurant serves delicious, authentic dishes from its namesake, Georgia's capital (and largest) city.  A spacious dining room, comfortable tables with white linens, walls adorned with photographs of old Tbilisi, and Georgian music playing in the background, virtually transported me to the Caucusus for my inauguration.

Photographs of old Tbilisi adorn the dining room walls

Crossing the Ts: A ligature of superimposed graphemic counterparts (the Latin T and the Georgian თ). The crescentic grapevine symbolizes Georgia's viticultural heritage.

My feast began with Spinach Pkhali with Walnuts, a cold dish that originated in the western part of Georgia.  Combining elements of a salad and a spread, this traditional starter blends finely chopped spinach and ground walnuts with fresh garlic, onion, cilantro, fenugreek, and cayenne pepper to produce a soft, spicy ball of flavor.  While the garnish of pomegranate arils added appetizing contrasts of taste, texture, and color, the red onions and cilantro accentuated the flavors of the ingredients.  Since I enjoyed the spinach pkhali (pronounced ხah·lee, where ხ refers to the voiceless velar fricative) with such gusto, I'm eager to sample the eggplant and bean variants on a future visit.

Spinach Pkhali with Walnuts

Next, I tried the traditional Khachapuri Imeretian (pronounced ხuh·juh·poor·ee ih·mer·ih·tyen, where ხ refers to the voiceless velar fricative), a bread stuffed with melted cheese.  Round, flat, and savory, this is one of Georgia's culinary mainstays.  Often described as "Georgian pizza," this khachapuri (literally, "cheese bread") hails from Imereti, a region in the center of the country.  Although suluguni, the so-called "pickle cheese," is preferred for its consistency and slightly sour flavor, mozzarella can be used as a reasonable fill-in, so to speak.

Khachapuri Imeretian

On my next visit, I may try the boat-shaped Khachapuri Adjarian.  This preparation, from western Georgia (near the Turkish border), features a concave vessel of dough loaded with cheese, baked with a raw egg.  It certainly sounds interesting, if not dangerous.

Khinkali, dumpling of championships

My main course comprised boiled meat dumplings.  Khinkali, with origins in Georgia's mountainous northeast regions, is considered a national dish.  (The menu lists it under the rubric of "National Hot Entrées.")  While a traditional ground lamb filling is used in the aforementioned mountains, a more contemporary mixture of beef and pork (the type served at Tbilisi) is more popular elsewhere.  The rustic, unsubtle ingredients—salt, pepper (black and red), ground caraway seed, minced onion and cilantro—yield a meat filling that's literally bursting with flavor.  The story doesn't end with the choice of protein, however.

Ground black pepper on khinkali is de rigueur

Encasing the raw meat is a thick, doughy skin that is pleated and twisted together to form a nipple-shaped seal called a kudi ("hat") or a kuchi ("navel").  The dumplings are boiled in salt water (thus cooking the meat, and producing a flavorful broth within), and served hot.  Adding coarsely ground black pepper at the table is de rigueur.

Consuming khinkali (pronounced ხing·kah·lee, where ხ refers to the voiceless velar fricative) is practically an art.  Owing to the copious juices trapped inside, Khinkali must be eaten with one's hands to avoid spilling any of the precious liquid.  The procedure requires holding the dumpling with both hands (using one's thumbs to support the nipple-shaped knob), taking a modest initial bite of the integument, and drawing out the broth—all without dribbling.  I'm proud to report that I fared quite well my first time!  Braggadocio aside, I found these aromatic, savory dumplings to be among the most delicious I've tasted.

Khinkali filled with a mixture of ground beef and pork

Interestingly, the casing and the juices within—not the meat itself—are the basis of regular competitions in Georgia.  While women are gauged by their skillful ability to prepare khinkali, men are evaluated by their deft ability to consume them.  To wit, the more pleats a woman folds into her dumpling, the higher her rating—39 is considered ideal.  And, as you may have guessed, the more dumplings a man eats sans spillage, the higher his score.  (To maximize capacity for this contest of Georgian gorging, the doughy nipples are not consumed; the uneaten knots are used to keep count.)  Despite all its pressure and difficulty, I think I prefer the male role.

What to drink with this sort of cooking?  Although Georgian culture is entwined with its viticultural heritage, this restaurant offers no alcoholic beverages.  Tbilisi does, however, allow BYOB.  (What better opportunity to open the bottle of Georgian wine I'd bought on a whim a while ago?)  My Khvanchkara 2005, a semi-sweet, unfiltered red wine from Racha in western Georgia, turned out to be a fortuitously fitting selection.  Made with Alexandrouli and Mujuretuli grapes, its hints of berry, cherry, and pomegranate paired favorably with the spiciness of the comestibles.

Because I had taken along my own wine, I felt compelled to order another beverage of some sort.  While the Zedazeni "fizzy drink" seemed appealing, the only flavor available was tarragon.  Unfortunately, distinguishing this so-called "lemonade" from a carbonated mouthwash presented quite a challenge: I wasn't sure whether to swallow or to gargle.  This was the only part of the meal I did not enjoy.

Notwithstanding the soft drink, Tbilisi afforded my palate a fine initiation into the flavorful realm of Georgian cooking.  I found it to be a most pleasant discovery, and should highly recommend it to anyone who savors something deliciously different.  Gaamos!

Tbilisi

811 Kings Highway (between E. 8^th & E. 9^th Streets),
Gravesend, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 382-6485

By train:  to Kings Highway
By bus:  B82, B68

 

Free Breakfast Mondays at IKEA

The price is hard to beat.  Every Monday morning, IKEA (pronounced EE·KAY·uh by those wishing to sound Nordic) serves a free hot breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, and potatoes from 9:30 till 11:00.  (The same 385-calorie breakfast plate costs only 99 cents the rest of the week.)

The fabulous views are included in the price!

Check your local IKEA store for details.  Some restrictions may apply.  Participation varies.

IKEA Brooklyn

1 Beard Street, Red Hook, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 246-4532

http://www.ikea.com/

By bus: B61

A Smashburger Grows in Brooklyn

Junior's has a new neighbor.  Last Thursday, Denver-based Smashburger made its New York premiere in Fort Greene, Brooklyn—just three days before the fourth anniversary of its debut in the Mile High City.

What's different about this burger chain?  For one thing, it's a national enterprise with local influences.  This store, for example, serves a Brooklyn smashburger, a Brooklyn Dog, and local beer from Brooklyn Brewery.  What else is different?  Tom Ryan, the company's founder and chief concept officer, explains:

Tom Ryan discusses the new Smashburger in Brooklyn

Get ready …

Get set …

Smash!

"Ten seconds, metal-to-metal."

Brooklyn smashburger (⅓ lb "smash" portion)

I had to order the Brooklyn ($5.99, ⅓ lb "smash"/$6.99, ½ lb "big smash"), a 100% Certified Angus Beef burger surmounted by grilled pastrami, Kraft Swiss cheese, pickles, onion, and yellow mustard on a pretzel bun.  Individually, the burger's components may seem at home in Brooklyn, but, not fuh nuttin, most Brooklynites would never add cheese to their pastrami.  Nevertheless, this savory combination of flavors was quite delicious and incredibly juicy!  It's a burger fit for Kings.  (County, that is.)

Pretzel bun

To accompany my Brooklyn smashburger, I ordered the healthful-sounding Veggie Frites ($2.99)—asparagus spears, carrot sticks, and green beans, flash-fried for 45 seconds, and seasoned with salt and pepper.  Inspired by Chinese stir-fry, these veggies are a welcome departure from the usual burger-related sides.

Brooklyn smashburger with Veggie Frites

My next taste was of a hamburger I shared with a fellow writer.  The Las Vegas-inspired Sin City smashburger lived up to its moniker.  Served on an egg bun, its sinful toppings comprised fried egg, applewood smoked bacon, melted American cheese, grilled and haystack onions, and smash sauce (a blend of mayo, mustard, sweet relish, and a little lemon juice).  I confess, this was a sinfully tasty burger.

From Las Vegas: The Sin City smashburger

While the burgers may be a smash, how does that name figure into their preparation?  Tom Ryan explains:

Tom Ryan explains the smashburger name

Owing to their cooking method ("ten seconds, metal-to-metal"), as well as possible health concerns, smashburgers are served somewhere between medium and medium-well, but can be ordered well-done.  I prefer my burgers rare, but, alas, that option is not available.

Spicy Baja Chicken Sandwich with a small cup of smash sauce

As if those sizable burgers hadn't been enough, I also tried the grilled Spicy Baja chicken sandwich ($6.99).  (The grilled option sounded a bit more healthful than the crispy alternative.)  Served with pepper jack cheese, guacamole, lettuce, tomato, onion, spicy chipotle mayo, and fresh jalapeños within a spicy chipotle bun, this was a genuinely spicy sandwich.  I especially enjoyed the way the guacamole complemented the heat of the other ingredients.  Inasmuch as I liked the chicken, however, I preferred the burgers.

Oreo Häagen-Dazs Milkshake

To end on a sweet note, I slurped a Häagen-Dazs milkshake.  Though available in the usual flavors—vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry—these shakes become veritable desserts when Oreos, Butterfinger, or Nutter Butter bars are added.  My Oreo milkshake was creamy and smooth, an indulgent means by which to exceed my calorie quota.  While I normally avoid such rich treats, I finished this one with far greater gusto than I care to admit.

Double BBQ, Bacon & Cheese smashburger

As Tom Ryan told me, "our goal is to put great tasting burgers back in people's lives."  Has he succeeded?  Let's just say the mere thought of a smashburger makes me salivate.

Smashburger

80 Dekalb Avenue (SW corner Rockwell Pl),
Fort Greene, Brooklyn   (map)

(718) 222-1101

http://www.smashburger.com/
https://www.facebook.com/smashburger

By train:  to DeKalb Av
             or   to Nevins St

By bus:  B25, B26, B38, B41, B45, B52, B67, B103

Jim Denburg
Owner & Managing Member - Team Brooklyn

High and Dry at Giando on the Water

It's hard to imagine a more spectacular space in which to dine than the one at Brooklyn's Giando on the Water.  Situated at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge, this old-line Italian-American restaurant takes full advantage of its location along the East River.  Its soaring ceilings, glass walls, and sparkling opulence provide an ideal setting for watching the sun descend through the screen of the Manhattan skyline.  Bundle the foregoing elements with easy access and ample parking, and Giando would seem to be the quintessential special-occasion venue—for a wedding party, family reunion, or other catered affair.  The very best reason to visit, however, is to lose yourself in the eyes of your date, when distractions such as food and wine are unnecessary, or even unwelcome.  Go for the romance, because you're certainly not going there for the food.

The meals aren't bad, they're simply banal.  Perhaps this point was emphasized by the sharp contrast between the extraordinary surroundings and the extremely ordinary comestibles.  But the upshot is that the food is unmemorable, in the most literal way.  What was the sauce on my salmon?  Something a little buttery?  Did my Comestaccomplice have the Chicken Piccata, or was it Francese?  I had to rely solely on my dining notes for all my recollections.

Insalata Capricciosa

For the record, I ordered the Broiled Salmon Dijon (listed on the menu as "De Jon").  Hints of mustard enhanced the fish slightly, but the flavorless broccoli and forgettable potatoes made this seem like a dish that could have been served at Olive Garden.  My Comestaccomplice's Chicken al Limone was of the same caliber: a little lemony and a lot ordinary.  The Insalata Capricciosa, er, salad, wasn't quite up to the aforementioned Olive Garden's standards.  (And it didn't even come with breadsticks!)  For dessert, the so-called Homemade Chocolate Cake seemed industrial.

Broiled Salmon Dijon

The wine list had its own problems.  It's wildly overpriced, with offerings that do battle with the many lighter and more subtle menu offerings.  We'd finally found one bottle that would complement our dishes, but apparently so had everyone else: it was sold out.  We couldn't find a single other bottle that would suit our main courses.  This may have been the only moderate-to-fine-dining meal at which my dining partner and I had forgone some sort of alcoholic beverage.  Even if it's a glass of wine, a beer, or a mixed drink, we invariably enjoy some type of libation at dinner.  We tried hard, honestly we did, but it simply couldn't happen in light of Giando's offerings.

Chicken al Limone

At least we had the beautiful setting and well-trained waitstaff at our disposal … well, sort of.  Once it became clear that there was to be no wine served to us, we were all but abandoned in favor of the two or three other tables occupied that evening.  (The staff-to-customer ratio was close to par.)  Since the 20% service charge is obligatory, why bother making any effort to earn it?

Homemade Chocolate Cake

There was little benefit to visiting here for the Dine In Brooklyn promotion.  As it turns out, Giando on the Water offers three-course Prima sera specials all year (Monday through Friday) for $25.95.  For the two of us, the restaurant-week savings amounted to less than two dollars.  Perhaps I shouldn't be too critical, however.  Three courses and a magnificent view for $25 isn't all that bad.

Giando on the Water

400 Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn   (map)

(718) 387-7000

http://www.giandoonthewater.com/

By train:  to Marcy Av
By bus:  Q59

Canaille Expect Better?

One benefit of the Dine In Brooklyn promotion is its annual roll call of restaurants that have escaped my attention.  Canaille, on the fringes of Park Slope, is an example of such a place.  Though it's been around since October of 2007, I'd not heard of this Fifth Avenue French bistro previously.  Its website, however, seemed rather appealing and gave all indications of being a safe $25 bet.

Some of Brooklyn's most popular eateries are fully booked before restaurant week even begins.  Since Canaille (pronounced kuh·NYE) opens at 6:00 P.M. and does not accept reservations, I arrived early to avoid disappointment.  Though my fears of competing for a table were unfounded, there was ample disappointment nonetheless.

For the better part of an hour, my Comestaccomplice and I had the entire bistro to ourselves.  Although the (effectively) private dining room was pleasant, it signaled a problem.  From what I could tell, the lack of customers was not due to the cooking or the décor.  Rather, it seemed to all boil down to a single component: co-owner Philippe de Crespi, a native Parisian whose contemptuous arrogance is exceeded only by his bad attitude.  His demeanor suggested annoyance with our presence.  He appeared to be suspicious, nay, disdainful, of anyone temerarious enough to enter his establishment.  Even the name Canaille (a pejorative term that refers to the riffraff or the unwashed masses) affords an insight into his regard for his clientele (or lack thereof).  The friendliness of co-owner Marie MacLean, on the other hand, provided a warm antidote to her partner's disagreeable behavior.  Her pleasant, nearly apologetic tone was not enough to overcome Monsieur de Crespi's insuperable imperiousness, however.

Aside from the aforementioned situation, there seems to be no reason for this business to be foundering.  What de Crespi lacks in personality, he can almost offset with his cooking.  With part-time assistance from Lyonnais Chef Christophe over the past year, the kitchen is in competent hands.  Our meals were really quite tasty.

Philippe's background as a sommelier and his predilection for French wines are evident in Canaille's well-chosen, albeit overpriced, wine list.  Except for the Domaine Saint-Vincent Brut NV (from New Mexico), every wine comes from France.  Our choice of the crisp 2008 Jean Rosen Pinot Blanc from Alsace turned out to be a fine match for the courses to come.

Tapénade hors d'œuvre

Comprising two starters, three main courses, and two desserts, the Dine In Brooklyn menu was somewhat spare, and not all that representative of the bistro's regular carte.  We began with complimentary southern French hors d'œuvre of garlicky tapénade and toast.  Before we even had the chance to amuse our gueules, however, de Crespi asked us whether we were going to eat it.  Franchement!  Happily, we saw more of Marie than of Philippe the rest of the evening.

Citrus Salad

Carrot Cumin Soup

Having tried both available offerings, we felt that our starters lived up to expectations.  Though my companion's Citrus Salad (mixed greens with orange and grapefruit segments, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar) was fresh and appetizing, it was not much more than a good salad.  My Carrot Cumin Soup was a better choice.  Velvety, and tasting exactly as advertised, it's a dish I'd order again.  Both starters were prepared well using ingredients appropriate to the season.

Tarragon Chicken Linguine

Our mains were somewhat mixed.  While my Comestaccomplice's Tarragon Chicken Linguine (tarragon-braised fowl, pasta, and julienned carrots and zucchini) was satisfying, it was predictably ordinaire.  (Perhaps she'd have fared better with the third option of Moules Frites.)  My main course, on the other hand, was superb.  Served atop a split pea purée, the Pork Butt Confit was mouthwateringly flavorful, succulent, and tender.  The leguminous accompaniment to the pork's subtle seasoning was a succès éclatant.

Pork Butt Confit

For dessert, we were given the choice between banal and dull.  Both of us rejected the Milk Chocolate Roll in favor of the Crème Caramel.  The custard was just as we expected it to be—nothing more, nothing less.

Crème Caramel

To his credit, Philippe de Crespi turns out respectable comestibles.  While I consider some of his dishes worthy of another visit, his demeanor is simply too deterring to warrant a return.  Until he recognizes the extent to which his personality is militating against his success, it's improbable his bistro will thrive.  How can any business prosper if it treats its customers like canaille?

Canaille Bistro Français

78 Fifth Avenue (between St Marks & Prospect Pls), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 789-8899

http://www.canaillebistro.com/

By train:   to Bergen Street
By bus:  B63

 

Dine In Brooklyn 2010

"Foodies, the wait is over!" is Brooklyn Borough President Marty Markowitz's annual call to Dine In Brooklyn.  From 15-25 March 2010, over 200 eateries in the borough of Kings will offer three-course meals for $20.10 at lunch and $25 at dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  You say you want more?  Nearly 40 restaurants will offer two meals at the aforementioned fixed prices.

Last year, I used the occasion of Dine In Brooklyn to try Pomme de Terre, Saint Germain, Pó Brooklyn, and Chez Oskar.  This year?  I'm open to suggestions …

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
209 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

Gaging Arby's Takes Its Tollner

The dining room is a vestige of late-nineteenth century splendor.  Tall arched mirrors with cherry frames adorn its Lincrusta-covered walls.  Intricate chandeliers, with dual fixtures for gas and electricity, emit a pleasing glow over the hundred-foot-long space.  Above it all, a vaulted ceiling rounds out the overall appearance of a posh Pullman dining car from the Gilded Age.  This Downtown Brooklyn landmark has ushered in two new centuries and has served the likes of Diamond Jim Brady, Lillian Russell, Mae West, Fanny Brice, Jimmy Durante, and your humble Comestiblogger along the way.  Though the legendary Gage and Tollner has faded into history, its classic appointments, mirabile dictu, have been preserved.

Gage and Tollner's historic main dining room

The story begins in the City of Brooklyn, four years before the completion of the Great Bridge.  In 1879, Charles M. Gage opened an oyster and chop "eating house" at 302 Fulton Street.  A year later, he was joined by Eugene Tollner, a cigar salesman who had been a regular customer.  In 1892, Gage and Tollner's restaurant moved into a nearby four-story Italianate row house at 372–374 Fulton Street, where it remained until closing in 2004.

Dominated by seafood and steaks, the menu included such favorites as Crabmeat Dewey, Lobster Thermidor, Scallops Baltimore, and Soft Clams Chicago.  In the late 1980s, owner Peter Aschkenasy made an unprecedented change by hiring renowned chef Edna Lewis to give the old Brooklyn stalwart a Southern accent.  (Miss Lewis was one of the founders of the highly acclaimed Café Nicholson on Manhattan's East Side.)  The native Virginian's influences were evident in her down-home cookin' that included cornbread, catfish, and her famed Charleston-style she-crab soup.  In 1992, after five years as Gage and Tollner's executive chef, Miss Lewis retired.

In 1995, following a bank foreclosure, the restaurant shut down temporarily.  That year, Joseph Chirico purchased Gage and Tollner and became its final owner.  After an ambitious restoration, Brooklyn's most elegant eatery reopened in 1996.  Gay Nineties swank, however, was inconsistent with the changes that had taken place along Fulton Street.  Owing to "dragging" business, Mr. Chirico shuttered the venerable establishment six years ago on Valentine's Day.

Following the demise of G&T, T.G.I. Friday's took over the space and closed after only three years.  Prospects for the future were uncertain.  Could this address ever serve as a restaurant again?  The answer came nearly three years after Friday's departure, when a hat-wearing roast beef sandwich gave the old place a new lease on life.  On Thursday, 21 January 2010, Gage and Tollner's landmark doors were reopened as Arby's.  Yes, Arby's.

Takeout: Arby's Express at the old mahogany and marble bar

It's clear that times have changed.  Roast beef sandwiches and melts have replaced prime rib, lobster, and crab.  Meat is no longer presented before being cooked.  Counter clerks wearing bright-red Arby's T-shirts have taken the place of uniformed waiters sporting service emblems (a gold eagle represented 25 years; a gold star, five years; and a gold bar, one year).  Modern utilitarian furniture has displaced turn-of-the-century mahogany tables and bentwood chairs, and, of course, paper napkins now serve in place of white linens.

Despite the foregoing changes, the landmark interior has managed to retain some of its earlier dignity.  This is undoubtedly the most impressive restaurant in the Arby's chain.  Though he won't discuss how much it cost to refurbish the dining room, franchisee Raymond Chera says he spent six months to reverse years of neglect.  He is encouraged by all the positive response to his new fast-food venture, calling the early enthusiasm "heartwarming."  If it takes roast beef sandwiches and toasted subs to preserve this space, even heartburn can be heartwarming.

Arby's

372 Fulton Street (between Smith St & Red Hook Ln), Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 643-1949

https://www.arbys.com/

By train:  to Jay St-Borough Hall; to Lawrence St; to Hoyt St; to Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B38, B51, B52, B57, B61, B62, B65, B67, B75

Additional links:

Gage & Tollner Virtual Tour
NPR: Memories of Southern Chef Edna Lewis
NPR: The Life and Legacy of Southern Cook Edna Lewis
VIDEO: Fried Chicken and Sweet Potato Pie

Le Petit Marché's Bread and Butter

When this blog was a mere infant (not merely infantile), Le Petit Marché in Brooklyn Heights was the subject of an early post.  At that point, the Gallic bistro had been in business nearly a year-and-a-half and had shown considerable promise.  With the start of 2010, almost two years and numerous failed DOH inspections later, pain et beurre have given way to Bread and Butter, the restaurant's new appellation.  While the ownership has remained essentially the same, the management has been revamped, and the kitchen has seen the return of Rob Weiner, Le Petit Marché's original chef.  Presumably, the new team is hoping the old chef can recapture the success of the French bistro's early days.

In the new incarnation, French fare has been replaced by American comfort food in the form of Southern-fried chicken, burgers, mac 'n' cheese, and the like.  The prices are somewhat less comforting, however, and seem incongruous with the current economy.  While the food may be very good, I'm in no hurry to shell out $23 for short ribs, $18 for fried chicken, $14 for a hamburger, or $9 for New England clam chowder.

Bread and Butter

46 Henry Street (bet. Cranberry & Middagh Sts), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn

(718) 858-9605

https://bkbistro.com/

By train:  to High St, or to Clark St
By bus:  B25 to Cranberry Street;
From Manhattan:  B51 to Cadman Plaza

Istanbul in Brooklyn: güllüoğlu Baklava & Cafe

There's no better cure for a winter chill than dessert and a hot beverage from Güllüoğlu in Midwood, Brooklyn.  This elegant and cozy Turkish café entreats with over a dozen varieties of baklava and kadayif (shredded phyllo pastry).  Various other sweet and savory delights, such as böreği (layered pastry), poğaça (puff pastry), simit (annular sesame bread), acma (Turkish "bagel"), ay çöreği ("moon pastry," or Turkish "croissant"), and acibadem (bitter almond cookie), beckon as well.  And, of course, the obligatory Turkish Delight and Turkish coffee are available, too.

Güllüoğlu's (pronounced gü·lü·OH·loh, where ü represents the German ü or the French u sound) history dates back more than a century.  In 1871, using a recipe he'd acquired from a chef in Damascus, Güllü Çelebi met with sweet success when he introduced the people of Gaziantep, Turkey to baklava.  Five generations later, with an intervening move to Istanbul, the Güllü family continues to operate the business.  In 2005, the first American outpost was established as a franchise in Brooklyn.  To ensure quality and consistency, the stateside branch imports its products directly from the company's plant in Istanbul.  Pastries are frozen, vacuum-sealed, and shipped to Brooklyn, where a baker "trained in the Güllüoğlu tradition" prepares them fresh daily.

Special Baklava with Double Pistachio

It should be noted that, in addition to being one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Gaziantep is the pistachio capital of Turkey.  The green nut's influence is evident in Güllüoğlu's signature confections, which are crafted using the famed Boz pistachios from Barak.  In addition, all pastries are made with pure butter, churned from the milk of goats and sheep from Turkey's Urfa Sihan Plateau and Tektek Mountains.  As a result of the foregoing ingredients, the Special Baklava with Double Pistachio ($13.75 a pound) imparts a slight edge—a minutely subtle bitterness not found in the Greek varieties—that mitigates the confection's overall sweetness.  Thus, individual elements—phyllo, nuts, and honey—are more distinguishable on the palate and, as a whole, yield a tastier pastry.  While I may be tempted to have a typical piece of baklava once or twice a year, I find that a single pistachio-based serving just isn't enough.  The stuff is addictive.  Baklava is simply more enjoyable when its sweetness does not overwhelm.

Sahlep

Either with dessert or by itself, a steaming cup of sahlep (sometimes spelled salep) can be particularly fortifying on a cold winter's day.  In Turkey, it is often used as a remedy for coughs and sore throats.  This seasonal beverage is produced from ground, dried tubers of the Anatolian mountain orchid (Orchis latifolia, also called sahlep).  The powdered roots are heated with milk and sugar, and dusted with cinnamon, to yield a pleasantly sweet, creamy concoction.  Its nearly mucilaginous consistency derives from a nutritious, starch-like substance in the orchid's tubers, called Bassorin.  Though it may feel a bit unusual on the tongue, sahlep is a most delicious and satisfying beverage.

güllüoğlu Baklava & Cafe

1985 Coney Island Avenue (bet. Av P & Quentin Rd),
Midwood, Brooklyn  (map)

Open daily, 7:00 A.M. till 10:00 P.M.

(718) 645-1822

http://www.gulluoglubaklava.com/

By train:  to Kings Highway
By bus:  B7 (daytime), B68, B82

Memo re: Turkish Shish Kebab and Gyro in Midwood

On a recent bone-chilling day, a ravenous Comestaccomplice stopped by and suggested we eat something "warm and hearty."  Knowing how much she likes lamb, I asked, "How about Turkish?"  She knew immediately what I had in mind: Memo Shish Kebab in Midwood, Brooklyn.  My erstwhile super, a Turk, introduced me to this marvelous Mediterranean eatery several years ago.  It has remained my favorite place for doner (gyro) ever since.

Babaghanoush/Patlican Ezmesi

Our meal began with a generous, "small" portion ($5 small/$8 large) of patlican ezmesi (babaghanoush), a delicious purée of eggplant, prepared with tahini (sesame paste), olive oil, onion, and garlic.  Its delightful smokiness distinguishes it from similar preparations I've tried.  Memo's home bread—a soft, round, seeded flatbread—made a splendid companion.  We were off to a great start.

Lamb Gyro/Doner

Having tried a number of dishes, including the highly recommended Iskender kebab (a seasonal offering, featuring a lightly hot tomato sauce), I continue to prefer the lamb doner (pronounced doh·NAIR) to all the rest.  Memo's exquisitely seasoned ground lamb, cooked on a spit over charcoal, is among the most flavorful I've tasted.  The fresh spices, together with the accompanying cacik and spicy red sauce, yield an harmonious gustatory union.  On this visit, I ordered my favorite: a large portion of the #4 Lamb Gyro/Doner.  Whether served as a platter ($8/$13) or as a sandwich ($6/$7), this is one tasty viand.

Lamb Gyro sandwich on Home Bread

My Comestaccomplice raved about the succulence of her #2 Shish Kebab ($8.5/$13).  (She was quick to concede that her numerous kebab efforts have never produced the same degree of moistness.)  Rather than overwhelming the charcoal-grilled chunks of lamb, the marinade is subtle enough to reveal the rich flavors of the meat, yet savory enough to obviate the need for additional seasoning.  While shish kebab is normally served with rice, my dining partner opted for "pretty good" French-fried potatoes instead.

Shish Kebab

Although the menu lists baklava and puddings under the heading, "DESERT/TATLILAR," I had another place in mind for dessert:  a little Turkish café not far away.  (Ah, but that's the subject of another post.)

Memo underwent an expansion a few years ago.  Though still somewhat spare, the larger space is comfortable and inviting.  Its true appeal, however, continues to be the appetizing redolence of grilled meat and fresh spices.

Memo Shish Kebab

1821 Kings Highway (NW corner E. 19^th St),
Midwood, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 339-8001
(718) 306-5227

Open daily, 11:00 A.M. till 11:00 P.M.

By train:  to Kings Highway
By bus:  B7 (daytime), B82, B100

 

Red Hooked on Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies

Were the name Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies not already sufficiently long, the term Old-Fashioned could be wedged in.  Steve Tarpin grew up around Key limes and knows what it takes to make a good, traditional pie therefrom.  Because of his unending disappointment with commercial varieties, the Florida woodworker-carpenter decided to bake his own Key lime pies at home for family and friends.  That was over 30 years ago.  Roughly a decade later, Tarpin came to New York from his native Miami to work with a friend.  After an injury in 1995 left him unemployed, a fortuitous meeting led Tarpin to hammer out a new career.  It was at a barbecue of the Red Meat Club that Steve's pies drew the favorable attention of a Manhattan restaurateur.  From an initial order of three pies, Steve's Authentic was born.

As business increased, so did the need for a capacious delivery vehicle.  Tarpin's purchase of a '53 Ford F-100 Flathead V8 embodied utility and marketing savvy.  The unmistakable pale yellow truck turned heads everywhere it went.  Needless to say, the Key Lime Express accelerated press coverage and helped to drive up sales.  Though mainly out of the limelight now, the truck still greets visitors to Steve's at Pier 41 in Red Hook.

One might say the quirky 50-something adheres to his own version of the KISS principle: Keep It Simple, Steve.  (Even his surname is a simplification of the Armenian Tarpinian.)  Five ingredients—pasteurized egg yolks, sweetened condensed milk, butter, graham crackers, and Key limes—comprise his sole product.  Though the recipe may sound simple, the key to its authenticity is in the limes and in the preparation.

Steve's pies are made with freshly squeezed juice from true Key limes that his supplier ships to him every few weeks.  (Key limes are smaller and more acidic than the Persian variety typically found in grocery stores.)  No bottled juice or concentrate is ever used.  Furthermore, the pies are not baked.  Rather, they are "filled and chilled" to preserve the integrity of the lime juice as well as the consistency of the filling.  And because no coloring is added, the filling's pale yellowish hue remains faithful to the fruit.  Though a little sweeter than I'd prefer, the resulting confection is creamy and quite tasty.

Steve's wares are available in three sizes: 10-inch and 8-inch pies ($25 and $15, respectively), and a 4-inch tart ($4).  Several years ago, the Swingle ($5), a variation of an ice cream bar, was added to the offerings.  This unique warm-weather treat was named in honor of Dr. Walter Tennyson Swingle (1871–1952), the American agricultural botanist who categorized the Key lime (Citrus aurantifolia).  It's a 4-inch tart on a stick, dipped into melted chocolate, and frozen.  Tarpin uses Belcolade, a dark chocolate from Belgium.  As with other Belgian varieties, this one is overly sweet and thus overpowers the crisp, key lime flavors it envelops.  While the cacao adds an interesting twist, a thinner coating or a less sweet variant (from fellow Brooklynite Jacques Torres, perhaps?) would yield a better balance of flavors.  I wish a naked Swingle, sans chocolate, were available.

Although recent changes, including the openings of Fairway and IKEA, have drawn an influx of new residents and visitors to Red Hook, Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies remains off the beaten path.  The entire operation is run from a Civil War-era warehouse on the waterfront.  The bakery, small retail shop, and outdoor patio provide a laid-back setting far more reminiscent of South Florida than of South Brooklyn.  Nestled among tropical plants and a mechanical waterfall, the outdoor seating area affords a relaxing spot in which to enjoy a Swingle or a tart while sipping a Key Limonade ($2).  Spectacular vistas of the harbor and the Statue of Liberty are to be had just around the corner.  Though a considerable distance from the nearest subway line, it's worth a trip to Steve's for an authentic, old-fashioned, taste of the Sunshine State.

Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pies

204 Van Dyke Street (at Barnell St), Pier 41,
Red Hook, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 858-5333
(888) 450-LIME (5463)

http://www.stevesauthentic.com/
http://www.keylime.com/

By bus:  B61, B77

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

 

Chez Oskar Night

Dine-In Brooklyn was winding down, it was rainy, dark, and becoming late.  Where to eat?  Several unsuccessful attempts to score a last-minute reservation ultimately led to an enthusiastic availability at Chez Oskar in Fort Greene.  I'd passed the French-style bistro on several occasions but never paid it much heed.  But what the heck?  The situation was becoming desperate enough to warrant a $23 gamble.

Chez Oskar is a lively place that seems quite at home in this diverse neighborhood.  It could best be described as a bistro à la Brooklyn—casual, funky, and comfortable.  The service is friendly and the food is good, but I'd restrain any praise beyond that.

Country Pâté

I seldom surrender to cravings involving cholesterol-laden foods, but the Country Pâté sounded the most promising among the five starters on the restaurant-week menu.  Though the presentation was attractive, the taste failed to live up to the promise.  Bland and uninspired, this dish made me rue my dietary transgression.  It's a pity that the comparably priced escargots or the slightly more expensive salmon-and-tuna tartare were not offered.  Perhaps they would have made a better first impression.

Lamb Shank

The five main course offerings—comprising fish, chicken, lamb, beef, and mushroom risotto—were ostensibly well-chosen, appealing to a broad array of tastes.  Owing to the weather, I ordered the Lamb Shank to help defend against the chill that awaited me outside.  The meat, tender enough to fall off the bone, was served with fingerling potatoes, artichokes, sautéed endives, and pomegranate sauce.  The resulting concoction tasted much like a lamb stew.  While not bad, it was unremarkable and rather ordinary.   Statistically speaking, it seemed fitting that, among les plats of my two Comestaccomplices, mine ranked squarely in the middle.

Free Range Chicken

As at Pó Brooklyn, the fowl was a better choice here.  The Free Range Chicken with pancetta-potato gratin, caramelized onions, fava beans, and red wine sauce was rather tasty, albeit unexceptional.  Instead of educing flavor from the chicken, however, the sauce's role was reduced to that of an inoffensive, unassuming accompaniment to the bird.  It was a pleasant dish that would have benefited from a more aggressive sauce.  Perhaps I was foolishly expecting something a bit more akin to a coq au vin.

Lemon and Garlic Crusted Codfish

The Lemon-and-Garlic Crusted Codfish was the weakest of the main courses I sampled.  Served with poached leeks, potato crisp, and whole grain mustard vinaigrette, this offering could be aptly described as an insipid piece of fish with a few embellishments.  Unfortunately, its plate mates were too bland to rescue the foundering cod.

Sweet Apple Crêpes

Desserts were commensurate with the courses that preceded them—lots of promise unfulfilled.  I'm not sure why I had high hopes for the Sweet Apple Crêpes.  They certainly looked good.  The dry, flavorless pancakes with caramelized apples left me as cold as the accompanying cinnamon ice cream, however.  Although the Warm Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream was slightly better, it failed to catapult my taste buds into cacao ether.  None of us was tempted by the Mango Crème Caramel.

Warm Chocolate Cake

Unfortunately, none of our dishes seemed to cross the threshold that separates the extraordinary from the ordinary.  Most of the flavors failed to soar and some never even managed to take flight.  Nevertheless, Chez Oskar's following has continued to keep it afloat since 1998.  In terms of the $23 gamble, we probably broke even.  This is a good neighborhood bistro, but scarcely worth a trip on the G train.

Chez Oskar

211 Dekalb Avenue (NE corner Adelphi St),
Fort Greene, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 852-6250

http://www.chezoskar.com/

By train:  to Clinton-Washington Avs (exit at Clinton Av)
By bus:  B38, B69

 

Dine Richly at Pó Brooklyn

In 1993, before his celebrity on the Food Network, Mario Batali opened Pó, a small trattoria in Manhattan's West Village.  Despite the founding chef's departure seven years later, the Cornelia Street eatery continued to thrive.  Following the success of the original, Pó Brooklyn was launched in 2007 and has been on my radar ever since.  A friend's recommendation, nay, insistence, compelled me to try the Smith Street edition during Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.

It was rainy and raw the day of my visit.  Mother Nature did little to brighten the dim interior, which my Comestaccomplice called soigné.  Nevertheless, the white table linen lightened the dark and cozy dining room while adding a touch of elegance to the casual setting.  The service was consistent with the ambiance—very accommodating without being intrusive.

The restaurant week menu choices were considerable, comprising four starters, five main courses, and three desserts.  Worthy representatives from the regular menu, including vegetarian options, were selected judiciously.  In general, gustatory ratings for promotional prix-fixe specials range from tolerable to very good.  The cucina of Pó Brooklyn raises the bar, however—my meal was excellent in nearly every respect.  Lacking any hint of mass production, each dish looked and tasted as though Chef Lee McGrath had prepared it especially for me.  This trattoria represents one of the best values I've encountered during Dine-In Brooklyn—not necessarily in quantity, but in quality.  It's hard to imagine a better $23 dinner anywhere.

White Bean Bruschetta

Our meal began with a complimentary (normally $2) White Bean Bruschetta.  The combination of canellini beans, olive oil, herbs and spices (including hot red pepper flakes, the sine qua non of Batali dishes) provided a pleasant deviation from common tomato-based toppings.  Receiving a corresponding recipe card with our snack added an ingratiating touch.  We were off to a propitious start.

Cured Tuna

My Cured Tuna antipasto yielded a bit of a surprise: the blend of tuna, canellini beans, sliced artichokes, and red onion atop a bed of frisée—all amid a chili-mint vinaigrette—gave every indication of being an insalata.  Regardless of its name, however, the successful union of ingredients resulted in an uncomplicated, yet excellent, starter.

Cider Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin

My secondo piatto, unlike my "antipasto," was much as I had envisioned it to be.  The Cider-Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin with braised cabbage and apple mostarda combined elements in a manner akin to reuniting old chums.  Though well-prepared and beautifully presented, this dish took no risks and demonstrated little desire to stray from anyone's comfort zone.  There's nothing intrinsically wrong with that, because it was tasty.  But in the company of more inspired offerings, the pork tenderloin was bit trite.

Grilled Guinea Hen

I realized I could have chosen a better main course upon sampling my Comestaccomplice's Grilled Guinea Hen.  It was a masterpiece that united simplicity with exquisite flavors.  Grilled and seasoned to a dark perfection, the bird was served atop pumpkin-and-scallion fregula (pearl-shaped pasta) and encircled by a ring of olive oil and saba (Italian grape syrup).  This was the pièce de résistance of the evening—a veritable symphony of flavors.  The succulent hen, with its masterly preparation, provided incentive enough for me to become a regular here.

Dark Chocolate Terrine

Finally, the dolce did not disappoint.  My Dark Chocolate Terrine (amaretti Sorrano, Vin Santo, and  espresso-caramel sauce) tasted every bit as good as it looked and left me with a sort of cacao "high."  It provided a sweet ending to a marvelous meal that didn't make me Po'.  This was a delightful meal, from start to finish.  But then, alas, it was back into the rain for me …

Pó Brooklyn

276 Smith Street (between Degraw & Sackett Sts), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 875-1980

http://www.porestaurant.com/

By train:  to Carroll Street (exit at President St)
By bus:  B71, B75

 

Saint Germain: Germanely French in Bay Ridge

When last I dined at this Bay Ridge bistro, it was called Provence en Boîte.  Although owners Jean-Jacques and Leslie Bernat have since packed up and relocated their Provençal "box" to Boerum Hill, this space retained its Gallic flavor when Jerome Vidy reopened it as Saint Germain in August, 2004.  (The name, incidentally, comes from the Left Bank district in Paris around the quartier latin, or Latin quarter—an historic area known for its literary and artistic life.)  I've wanted to try the Third Avenue namesake of Saint-Germain-des-Prés for some time, but have always considered the prices un peu cher.  This spring's Dine-In Brooklyn, however, afforded me an affordable occasion to sample their cuisine.

Being seated at my favorite table brought back memories of this bistro's previous incarnation.  Little has changed in the dining room since my last visit:  guests must still pass the enticing dessert showcase upon entering; the bar still stands along the wall beyond the confections; and the banquette still lines the opposite wall.  Though the cooking has remained French, the service has not.  (I miss the Bernat's lovely niece, a delightful French serveuse.)

The special prix-fixe menu (please see below) comprised four starters, four main courses, and seemingly countless desserts.  It offered a well-chosen selection, mostly from the regular menu.  The unaccustomed generosity of the promotional portions came as quite a pleasant (and satisfying) surprise.

My Kir Royale apéritif set the tone for the first course.  Its rosy effervescence made a delightful partner to the smoked salmon platter.  The sparkling wine, combined with the sweet influences of the cassis, complemented the rich smokiness of the fish as well as the piquancy of the caper garnish.  Generously portioned and served with toast and lettuce, this was a marvelous starter.  Interestingly, the salmon platter does not appear on the regular menu, though it probably should.

Smoked salmon platter with toast and lettuce

I should have ordered wine for my second round.  Instead, I succumbed to the seductive appeal of the Brigitte Bardot cocktail.  The mixture of lemon vodka, triple sec, and sparkling French pink lemonade sounded better than it tasted.  What was I thinking?  (I wonder whether I'll fall victim to Wild Love or a Screaming Orgasm next time.)

Onward to the main course.  Since I had a hankering for meat, I chose the Flank Steak au Poivre with pommes frites.  Popular in French kitchens, this cut comes from a part of the cow that normally receives considerable exercise.  While quite lean, the flank can be somewhat tough and stringy.  Thus, it requires rapid cooking on high heat.  As for my steak, it was slightly tough (predictably), but very flavorful, and cooked almost perfectly.  I say almost because it was not quite so rare as I'd requested—a minor point, overall.  The peppercorn sauce (made with green peppercorns, brandy, and cream) was consistent with my expectations:  not great, but not bad, either.  It could have benefited from additional brandy.  The crisp pommes frites were authentic and very good, indeed.  Why can't all french fries be made from real potatoes?  Again, the ample portion's scale was more American than it was French.

Flank steak au poivre with pommes frites

Though sated after the main course, I still faced the prospect of selecting a dessert from the large display case.  With so many délices from which to choose, I picked the one that seemed to be exhorting me to consume it:  the apricot amandine.  My initial bite, however, revealed the real reason behind the tart's entreaties:  fear of being the last to be chosen.  Apparently, this dessert had been deserted awhile.  I found myself doing battle with the crust—it was far too rigid.  Age may have also played a role in helping the almond paste overpower the retreating flavor forces of the sliced apricots.  I prefer my steaks aged, but not so my desserts.  (Perhaps I should have ordered the Porcupine confection instead.)

Apricot amandine

Among my Dine-In Brooklyn meals so far, this one has represented the best value.  Considering that the regular dinner menu lists steak au poivre at $21.95 and desserts at $6 apiece, the $23 fixed price for my three courses was a bargain.  Overall, my dinner was quite satisfactory despite the disappointing apricot amandine.  While the bistro fare at Saint Germain is unlikely to win awards for creativity, it is fairly reliable and tasty.

Saint Germain

8303 Third Avenue (near 83^rd St), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn

(718) 745-8899

By train:  to 86^th Street
By bus:  B37

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

 

The Scoop on Jacques Torres' Ice Cream

Although I had just finished a very satisfying dinner, replete with dessert, the sign outside Jacques Torres' latest venture was too inviting to ignore:  "Come In! Try Our Ice Cream," it beckoned.  Inspired by the success of their ice cream sandwiches over the past four years, Jacques Torres and his partner Ken Goto opened an ice cream parlor adjacent to their chocolate factory on Water Street in D.U.M.B.O.  The new shop began dishing up its frozen wares two Saturdays ago, on 30 May.  Could the renowned chocolatiers also churn out superior ice cream and sorbet?  In spite of my satiety, I was determined to investigate.

Co-owner Ken Goto

An initial taste of the mango sorbet failed to portend a second dessert that evening.  Its formidable fruit flavor was, alas, unable to subjugate the surge of insuperable sweetness.  A second sample altered my supplemental dessert plans instantly, however.  A diminutive spoonful of the exquisite raspberry sorbet virtually exploded in my mouth, leaving behind its fruit-laden shrapnel for my taste buds to savor and exhort for more.  A small cup of this tasty treat revealed its silky-smooth texture that could best be described as mousse-like.  Its flavor and consistency make this possibly the best raspberry sorbet I've tasted.

Though I limited my trials to sorbet this time, a couple of ice cream flavors aroused my curiosity:  namely, the Wicked (spiced with ancho and chipotle chilies) and the Vanilla Caramel Popcorn Crunch.  In all, Mr. Chocolate offers more than a dozen flavors of ice cream and sorbet at very reasonable prices.  Cones and cups: one scoop ($3); two scoops ($4.75); three scoops ($6).  Having mastered chocolates, truffles, bonbons, and now ice cream, Mr. Torres is becoming the Jacques of all treats.  What sweets will he conquer next?

Jacques Torres Ice Cream

62 Water Street (near Main St), D.U.M.B.O., Brooklyn

(718) 875-9772

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

By train: A,C to High Street; F to York Street
By bus: B25 to Main Street

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Pomme de Terre, Not Ordinaire

A few years ago, a good French bistro like Pomme de Terre would have seemed unthinkable in this part of Ditmas Park, Brooklyn.  It still appears somewhat improbable today.  For instance, the nearby Newkirk Avenue BMT station has no fewer than two transit cops present at any given time.  And while undergoing its transformation from seedy grocery to upscale eatery, this space suffered numerous acts of vandalism.  Despite the annoying setbacks, owners Gary Jonas and Allison McDowell (founders of The Farm on Adderley nearby), and Jim Mamary (one of the founders of Patois) persevered and, on 31 March 2008, began serving, in their words, "well-loved food."  Since then, I'd always wanted to give this little bistro a try.  The recent Dine-In Brooklyn week afforded me a fine opportunity.

Dining weeks allow restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a reduced price.  Many restaurateurs use such occasions to put their best food forward.  Unfortunately, that was not the case at Pomme de Terre.  Their Dine-In Brooklyn menu seemed to target regular customers at the expense of newcomers.  Instead of featuring signature dishes, they offered items not found on their regular menu.  Perhaps with good reason.  After all, this little restaurant appears to have established a constant clientèle.  Nevertheless, I'd have preferred something a bit more representative—such as Steak Frites au Poivre—of their typical fare.

Although the bread is ordinaire, Pomme de Terre adds some nice French touches such as homemade butter to accompany it.  My meal began with a garlic soup containing a poached egg and topped with a croûton.  Perhaps I'm a bit too fond of garlic, but it seemed there just wasn't enough of it in the broth.  While this starter was a tasty and pleasant departure from the ordinary, its lack of ail intensity did not yield a favorable comparison with garlic-based concoctions I've enjoyed in Europe.

Garlic Soup

For the main course, chef David Pitula offered two choices: Warm Country Pâté and Chicken Paillard.  I opted for the latter, which was served in a goat cheese-basil vinaigrette, topped with grilled eggplant and squash, and accompanied by Yukon-Rosemary potatoes.  It was good, possibly even very good.  The overly acidic vinaigrette created a slight detraction, but was ameliorated somewhat by the sweetness of the grilled vegetables.  Overall, the flavors melded well.

Chicken Paillard

Had the cellar been commensurate with the wine list, I'd have found it quite acceptable.  I've come to expect a bistro's carte des vins to comprise few, but well-chosen—possibly esoteric—wines.  Unfortunately, it took four tries to find a wine that was actually in stock.  I finally settled on a glass of Vin de Savoie "Abymes," whose $9 price would have bought a bottle at a retail shop.

The dining room's décor is consistent with that of bistros one might find in Manhattan.  To wit, it has a sort of French feel.  Nevertheless, a Gallic bistro experience should transcend French-accented fare and décor.  Alas, the service was decidedly un-French.  My waiter made no efforts toward any sort of authentic pronunciation whatsoever.  (My request for a glass of "van de sahvwah" was met with a "vin da Savoy."  Oh well.)   While competent and not unfriendly by any means, the glib service was not all that ingratiating.  Perhaps I simply expect too much.

Lemongrass Panna Cotta

For dessert, I chose the Lemongrass Panna Cotta with mixed fruit.  While the tropical infusion provided a tangy twist, the consistency of the panna cotta lacked the buoyancy I've come to expect.  Again, at a purportedly French bistro, I'd have preferred the Gallic version of burnt cream: crème brûlée.

Whatever its minor shortcomings, Pomme de Terre is a welcome addition to a neighborhood that has been bereft of superior dining spots far too long.

Pomme de Terre

1301 Newkirk Avenue (NE corner Argyle Rd), Ditmas Park, Booklyn

(718) 284-0005

http://www.pdtny.com/

By train: B,Q to Newkirk Avenue
By bus: B8, B68

Tanoreen is Moving

Tanoreen, the popular Bay Ridge, Brooklyn restaurant, is moving across Third Avenue to usher in its second decade.  Within the next two months, Rawia Bishara's "Middle Eastern cuisine with Mediterranean aromas" will be served in the dining room vacated a year ago by the venerable Mr. Tang (whose take-out branch continues to operate next door.)

Dine-In Brooklyn 2009

"Foodies, the wait is over!" proclaims Marty Markowitz, Brooklyn Borough President.  This weekend, the protracted NYC Restaurant Week™ (begun mid-January) passes the torch to Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.  From 23 March through 2 April, over 200 Brooklyn eateries will offer three-course lunches or dinners for $23 (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  In addition, some 20 restaurants will serve two meals at the aforementioned fixed price.  That's one of the best dining bargains anywhere.

Not sure which restaurants to try?  Pick up a free 2008 Zagat Guide to Brooklyn Restaurants—while supplies last—at the Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center inside Borough Hall.  Last year, I used the occasion of Dine-In Brooklyn to sample Le Petit Marché and to revisit Rose Water.  This year?  I'll keep you posted …

 

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
179 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

F. Martinella Open House

Free food?  Sign me up!  This weekend starts a little early at F. Martinella on Court Street in Downtown Brooklyn.  Although this retro-themed deli opened in November, its coming-out party takes place today through Sunday (19-22 March) in the form of a Grand Open House.  Enjoy food samples, cooking demonstrations, entertainment, prizes, and much more.  Please visit their website for details.

Everything I tried was delicious, incidentally.

F. Martinella

119 Court Street (NE corner State St), Downtown Brooklyn
Thursday through Sunday,
10:00 A.M. to 4:00 P.M.

(718) 858-6000

http://www.fmartinella.com/

By train: 2,3,4,5 to Borough Hall
By bus:  B75, B61, B63

Valentine's Day Sweets for Your Sweetie

Since its American debut in New York, Fauchon had topped our list of favorite chocolatiers.  To enter the elegant Park Avenue salon de thé was to step into a little corner of Paris; to sample their ethereal wares was to taste a little piece of heaven.  Sadly, our special seller of sublime sweets shuttered its Manhattan outpost last year.  While Fauchon's closing may have left a cavity in the Big Apple, other fine purveyors around town have reduced the void with their superb chocolate fillings.

The Paris-based La Maison du Chocolat was our chocolatier of choice until the arrival of Fauchon.  The House of Chocolate's exquisitely crafted cacao creations—including the Dark Ganache with Two Vanillas (made with Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar and aromatic beans from Tahiti) and the masterly Dark Ganache Porcelana (a Maison du Chocolat exclusive, made with the Venezuelan Porcelana bean)—are available in various Stitches of Love Valentine's Day collections.  Prices for the assortments range from $15 (for a box of four) to $85 (for a box of 39).

While I enjoy the large selection at La Maison du Chocolat's premier boutique on the Upper East Side, I prefer the quiet and convenience of the new location on Wall Street.

Should you fancy French chocolates with a Brooklyn twist, you could look to our own (somewhat) local hero, Jacques Torres.  Originally from Bandol, France (a small, seaside resort town in the south of Provence), the self-proclaimed Mr. Chocolate established his first factory along with a diminutive retail shop in D.U.M.B.O. (the lowland between the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges—a former paper-box manufacturing area once known as Gairville).  His December, 2000 opening came at a time when that deserted part of Brooklyn had little else to recommend it.  My late wife and I were among Jacques Torres' first customers; I remain a devotee.

Jacques Torres' spaces are more approachable and his prices are more accessible than those of the upscale Parisian-styled boutiques.  And Mr. Chocolate seems to convey a greater sense of fun.  Valentine's Day treats like The Spanker ($12; "it's sure to leave a mark!"), Body Paint, Love Tonic, and Body Butter ($9 apiece; "don't make us give you instructions…") demonstrate a sort of playfulness not readily apparent at La Maison du Chocolat or the erstwhile Fauchon.  Of course, Jacques also offers various artisanal collections ranging from the seven-piece Heart Truffle Box ($10.50) to the 50-piece Champagne Kisses ($57.50) as well as the large, 34-piece heart-shaped box of bonbons ($49).  I opted to create my own assortment of 25 quasi-Valentine's Day chocolates ($33, please see below).  Chocolate was never so much fun!

My personal selection. (The hexagonal Liquid Caramel was my late wife's favorite.)

In addition to expanding his original D.U.M.B.O. space, Jacques Torres has opened shops on Hudson Street and on Amsterdam Avenue in Manhattan.  The newest store (and the first outside New York) is scheduled to open next month in Traverse City, Michigan.

 

Fauchon

http://www.fauchon.com/

 

La Maison du Chocolat (Manhattan)

1018 Madison Avenue (between 78^th & 79^th Sts), Upper East Side
(212) 744-7117

30 Rockefeller Center, Midtown
(212) 265-9404

63 Wall Street (near Hanover St), Financial District
(212) 952-1123

http://www.lamaisonduchocolat.com/

 

Jacques Torres

66 Water Street, D.U.M.B.O., Brooklyn
(718) 875-9772

350 Hudson Street (SE corner King St), South Village, Manhattan
(212) 414-2462

285 Amsterdam Avenue (between 73^rd & 74^th Sts), Upper West Side, Manhattan
(212) 787-3256

http://www.mrchocolate.com/

Not Ravin' About Cake Man's Red Velvet

In 2000, Harlem-native Raven Patrick De'Sean Dennis III put a large, red dot—with frosting—on the map in Fort Greene, Brooklyn.  Not long after he opened Cake Man Raven Confectionery on Fulton Street, his Southern Red Velvet Cake became such a sensation that he began limiting each customer to four slices.  Furthermore, whole cakes had to be ordered "at least" a week in advance.  In spite of these restrictions (or, perhaps, because of them), hour-long waits on lines stretching down the block were common.  Fanfare for Raven erupted anew within the past year, when Applebee's announced it would serve the Cake Man's signature confection at its Brooklyn restaurants.

Thus, imagine our surprise when, on a recent visit (in late-afternoon, on a Friday) to the "home of the official Red Velvet cake," we encountered no lines and, more tellingly, no other customers!  (Two people did come in after we made our purchases:  one bought two slices of cake, though not the Red Velvet; the other picked up a pre-ordered sheet cake.)  Equally surprising were the ready availability of whole cakes and the absence of a purchasing limit on slices.  Was this a fluke?  Cakewoman Maven and I were determined to find out.

Hype is a funny thing.  It can lead one to enjoy things more than otherwise warranted, or it can sensitize a person to noting all the subtle (and not so subtle) flaws of the object in question.  The question here is:  How did Cake Man Raven's Red Velvet cake become one of the hottest dessert properties in town?

Red Velvet cake is one of Cakewoman's passions—to the extent that she considers it to be not only a favorite dessert, but an all-around favorite food.  We've found that most bakeries follow—if not perfectly—the basic precepts:  a spongy, rich chocolate cake with its moistness enhanced by copious amounts of red food-coloring, preferably not too sweet, with a creamy frosting (usually made with cream cheese, ricotta, or both).  The sides of the cake are typically sprinkled with finely crumbled chocolate cake or dark chocolate shavings.

Excessive sweetness is a widespread problem.  It's characteristic of Stop & Shop's otherwise near-perfect version (on the rare occasions they offer it), as well as Stew Leonard's less-than-velvety attempt.  Without question, the best Red Velvet cake was that of our recently deceased caterer-friend, Barbara.  Her cake's texture was spongy and had just the right amount of give.  She used enough red food coloring to enhance the deep chocolaty flavor (and, importantly, moist texture) in that uniquely savory, "red-velvet" way, without overwhelming the chocolate.  Her lightly sweetened whipped-cream frosting further contributed to a finished product that wasn't cloyingly sweet.  Yum!

Alas, "cloying" is a word that came up repeatedly as we discussed our recent cake slices ($6 apiece) and identically tasting cupcakes ($5 for two) from Cake Man Raven.  But saying the cake is too sweet is merely the tip of this confectionery iceberg.  It is more significant to note that, had we tasted it blind, neither of us would have identified it as Red Velvet cake.

First, the texture is out of balance.  Though moist, the cake is neither springy nor spongy—it's just a heavy, starchy lump.  And, instead of any inkling of chocolate, the artificial taste of the food coloring, together with that of something vaguely almondlike, predominates.  Finally, the whole thing is slathered in an inch-thick coating of outrageously sweet frosting.  There's a hint of cream cheese, but the overpowering sugar element in both cake and frosting eliminates any possibility of detecting subtleties of flavor.  In sum, our blindfolded palates might have deemed this to be a moist, but leaden, yellow cake, laden with sugar and artificial flavoring.

Two options are available when ordering this confection:  plain or with a pecan-coating on the frosting.  We found the latter preferable, because the nuts help to mitigate, albeit ever so slightly, the cake's, yes, cloying sweetness.

As mentioned earlier, Cake Man Raven doesn't limit himself to Red Velvet cake.  Also on display at his shop (and the only other slices sold during our 15-minute visit) were an alarmingly green coconut cake, alongside a yellow cake of a hue one might actually find in nature.

In sum, the two of us agreed that, had we been served this in a restaurant (assuming it weren't advertised as "Red Velvet cake"), we'd not have been terribly impressed—though we'd not have been terribly disappointed, either.  The cake's moistness is quite acceptable, and we might have enjoyed a few bites of it, without the frosting.  But to seek out this confection when the occasion calls for a Red Velvet cake—especially given its steep price?  In a word:  No.  I'm afraid we'll have to look elsewhere.

 

Cake Man Raven Confectionery

708 Fulton Street (between S Portland Av & S Oxford St),
Fort Greene, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 694-CAKE (2253)

http://www.cakemanraven.com/
http://www.myspace.com/cakemanraven

By train:  to Lafayette Av; to Fulton St
By bus:  B25, B26, B52

 

Oooh, Nice Buns, er, Pretzels

Although Almondine refers to them as pretzels, they look more like rolls or buns.  Perhaps they ought to be named callipygian pretzels.  Regardless of their sobriquet, however, one has to call them delicious.

The Pretzels with Cheese ($3.25 apiece) are topped with Gruyère along with sesame and poppy seeds, and even contain a bit of cheese in the center.  Warm, soft, and tasty, they constitute the perfect nosh.  Be warned, however, that one pretzel usually leads to another.

These delectable snacks were introduced here by Almondine's first head baker, Roger Gural, whose impressive credentials also include principal positions at Bouley Bakery, Amy's Bread, as well as Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery.  He currently teaches at his alma mater, The French Culinary Institute, from which he earned Le Diplome de Boulanger in 1998.

Almondine

85 Water Street (near Main St), DUMBO, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 797-5026

http://www.almondinebakery.com/

By train:  to High Street; to York Street
By bus:  B25 to Main Street

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

Comestiblab:  The word pretzel comes from the (rhyming) German word Brezel; originally from the Latin brachiatus, branched (like arms), from brachium, arm.  According to legend, a monk created the knotted biscuit in the shape of arms folded in prayer.

 

De-Lia-cious Ices

What a pleasure to have such a good gelateria within walking distance of Comestiblog's world headquarters.  This Windsor Terrace storefront dishes up tempting gelati, sorbetti, ices, ice creams, and shakes.  Eight of their nearly two-dozen tantalizing gelati are homemade (please see the menu below).  I'm eager to try the Amarena and the Cremolata.

The consistency of the Ciao Bella sorbetti varies from smooth to grainy.  Flavors such as passion fruit, blueberry, and mango are typically sweeter than I'd like.  The blood orange and pomegranate (a small cup of which is pictured below), on the other hand, are standouts—especially when combined.

With cold weather approaching, Lia's will begin serving hot soups October 1^st.  They're soliciting suggestions.  Any ideas?

Lia's Ices

471 16^th Street (near Prospect Park West),
Windsor Terrace, Brooklyn  (map)

By train:  to 15^th St-Prospect Park (exit at 16^th St)
By bus:  B68, B69, B75

 

Cranberry Street Bog

One really needs a scorecard to keep track of the comings and goings of food establishments at the corner of Henry and Cranberry Streets in Brooklyn Heights.  The latest casualty is the Wine Bar at 50 Henry Street, which opened in January.  Its shutdown Tuesday was a result of the alleged skullduggery that also led to the closings of Busy Chef, Oven, and the Blue Pig across the street in the Cranlyn.  The establishments are all under the same ownership.

According to the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, manager and co-owner Dan Kaufman has been arraigned on multiple charges of credit card fraud and identity theft.  Kaufman allegedly obtained $25,000 through the use of customers' credit cards.

Next.

 

Please click the link below for the full story:

http://www.brooklyneagle.com/categories/category.php?category_id=27&id=22170

Countdown to Red Hook Food Vendors

The wait is almost over.  The unofficial start date of the 2008 season for the Red Hook food vendors is Saturday, 19 July.  The much-publicized delays have been due to compliance issues with the Department of Health.  Let's hope there are no further snags.

Red Hook Food Vendors

Bay & Clinton Streets, Red Hook, Brooklyn

http://www.myspace.com/redhookfoodvendors

By train: F to Smith-9^th Streets
By bus: B77
By boat: Water Taxi from Pier 11 (Wall Street) to Ikea

These Boots are Made for Eatin'

Edible boots?  Yes, in a way, if you're talking about geographical shapes.  With a menu influenced by dishes from Louisiana and Italy, Two Boots Brooklyn is aptly named.  Of course, the name could also imply a neighborhood place in which to kick back and relax.  The eclectic decorations provide the setting for one of the most casual, family-friendly restaurants around.

The Cajun boot's footprint on the menu is considerably larger than that of its Mediterranean partner.  Most of the starters, for instance, are Louisiana-based.  Examples include Bubba's Black Bean Chili, Baton Rouge Wings, Natchez Nachos, and Spicy BBQ Shrimp N'Awlins Style.  Fried Calamari is the only Italian first course, unless you stretch your imagination to include Cajun Garlic Bread.

Louisiana also dominates the selection of main courses.  For example, there's the 12-ounce Steak Louisianne, Big Daddy's Chicken-Fried Steak, Blackened Catfish Filet, Crescent City Jambalya, and even the Voodoo Southern Fried Chicken.  All main courses come with a choice of two side dishes.  I ordered the blackened Filet of Salmon ($14.95).  It was not the best piece of fish I've ever eaten and the seasoning was scarcely Cajun.  It didn't taste bad, but, sadly, it didn't agree with me.  My side dishes of broccoli with garlic and sautéed spinach were quite all right.

To wash it all down, I chose the delicious Creole Lemonade.

On the lighter side, Two Boots' collations comprise salads, pasta, burgers, po' boys, and other sandwiches.  Their popular thin-crust pizzas come in three sizes with an extensive array of toppings.  There's also a sizable kids' menu.

Desserts are decidedly American.  Among the highlights is Brooklyn's own Steve's Key Lime Pie ($4.95).

Two Boots Brooklyn is open for lunch, brunch, and dinner.  Certain evenings feature a varied selection of musical performances.

 

 

Two Boots Brooklyn

514 2^nd Street (bet. 7^th & 8^th Avs), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 499-3253

http://www.twobootsbrooklyn.com/

By train: B,Q to 7^th Avenue
By bus: B67, B71

Keeping Apace with the Tempo of Park Slope

Gastronomically speaking, there wasn't much to recommend this part of Park Slope less than a decade ago.  Pioneers like Cucina, Al di Là, and the erstwhile Vaux changed all that, however, and paved the way for what has become a restaurant row on Fifth Avenue.  After a 16-year run, Cucina's closing in 2004 left many regulars bereft.  Its reincarnation as Tempo that same year assuaged the grief, however.

Chef Michael Fiore made the transition from Cucina and infused his Italian-inspired dishes with other flavors from the Mediterranean, including those of France, Spain, and Morocco.  Add to that his unmistakably American accent, and voilà—Tempo!

The three-course, prix fixe menu ($32, Sunday through Thursday; $42, Friday and Saturday) offers a wide range of dishes to savor.  For my first course, I chose one of Tempo's signature dishes: Duck Pastilla Rolls (duck and almonds, sweetened with a Moroccan barbeque glaze, in a crisp feuille du bric wrapper).  The sweetness of the glaze was reminiscent of a Hoisin sauce and gave the dish a vaguely Asian flavor.  It was rather tasty, though I tend to prefer duck preparations to be more savory.

The bread and bean dip added a nice touch.

My main course was an Atlantic salmon atop a chickpea falafel on a bed of charred eggplant purée with sesame tahini.  The covering of radish and watercress salad added the necessary greenery.  The fish was tender and moist and seemed to blend well with its plate partners.  Since I dine on salmon often, this unusual preparation was a welcome change.

I should point out that Tempo offers a good selection of wines.  However, the cocktails are so refreshing that I drank them instead of wine with my meal.  The passion fruit Bellini made a delicious apéritif and was a nice variation of the popular drink made with white peach nectar.  The Pomegranate Margarita (made with PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur) proved to be a nice twist on the classic lime version.  With tasty libations like that, I didn’t really miss my wine that evening.

Selecting a dessert is, perhaps, the most difficult part of the meal.  Each one seems as tempting as the next.  Who can resist the New Orleans-style beignets with Café du Monde gelato or the passion fruit crème brûlée?  There are also artisanal cheeses available for an additional charge.  I finally decided upon the warm molten chocolate cake with caramel pecan crunch gelato.  Yum!

Tempo brings a sort of informal stylishness that was once a scarcity in this part of Brooklyn.  The décor of the dining room and wine bar is chic, yet casual.  In addition, the waitstaff is courteous, relaxed, and knowledgeable.  Above all, however, one is made to feel comfortable.  Keep up the Tempo!

  

Tempo

256 Fifth Avenue (bet. Carroll St & Garfield Pl), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 636-2020

http://www.tempobrooklyn.com/

By train: M,R to Union Street
By bus: B63

Marco Polo Turns 25

Last Tuesday marked the silver anniversary of Marco Polo Ristorante.  To celebrate, the famed Italian eatery is offering a three-course, prix fixe menu: $19.83 for lunch and $25 for dinner (to commemorate their inaugural year and their years in business, respectively).  The special menu is available for 25 days, from 5 June till the end of the month.

Seven starters are offered, including a soup-of-the-day, a salad, or one of the old favorites such as Carciofo alla Contadina (artichoke stuffed with breadcrumbs and cheese) and Calamari con Cannellini e Grano (squid served with cannellini beans and grain).

I chose the Mozzarella con Pomodoro e Basilico (homemade mozzarella with sliced tomato, basil, and extra virgin olive oil).  I probably should have ordered something else.  The fresh mozzarella was a bit dry and rubbery, and the tomatoes were, alas, commensurate with the season.  By contrast, I'd tried the stuffed artichoke on a previous visit and consider it to be a better choice.

There are a dozen secondi from which to select, including many traditional dishes like Pollo Scarpariello (chicken sautéed with garlic, white wine, rosemary, and lemon) and Vitello Piccata (veal scaloppini topped with artichokes in a white wine sauce), as well as fish, seafood, and vegetable dishes.

Happily, my second course made up for the disappointing appetizer.  I ordered the Salmone Tornado Alla Mostarda (salmon over spinach in a mustard sauce) but my waiter returned moments later to inform me that the salmon was no longer available.  The chef kindly offered to prepare a sole in a similar fashion.  It turned out to be an excellent substitution.  The sole was moist, flaky, and delicious.  The mashed potatoes were tasty, but oh, so rich.  A glass of pinot grigio made a fine accompaniment.

Sole over spinach with mashed potatoes and a glass of pinot grigio

Even though I dined relatively early, only two of the three listed desserts were available.  The Charlotte di Venezia (sponge cake filled with torrone gelato topped with hot chocolate sauce) sounded rather tempting, but I decided on the homemade Italian (ricotta) cheesecake.  It was creamy and tasty without being overly sweet—a good choice.

Marco Polo has aged gracefully over a quarter-century.  The dining room, decorated with iconic murals of Italy, maintains an old-world elegance without seeming pretentious.  Host Joseph Chirico and his staff are attentive and professional, and executive chef Bruno Milone seldom disappoints.  Congratulations, Marco Polo.

 

Marco Polo Ristorante

345 Court Street (SE corner Union St), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 852-5015

http://marcopoloristorante.com/

By train: to Carroll Street
By bus: B71, B75

 

BX Hits the Spot

I found one of my favorite sandwiches at a little Vietnamese shop on the northern fringes of Brooklyn's Asian community in Sunset Park.  Ba Xuyên's bánh mì (pronounced bung·MEE) convinced me that east had conspired with west to produce a superb sandwich.

Arguments may persist over France's role in Indochina, but one distinct side-benefit remains: France's roll in Vietnam.  The legacy of French bread is evident in the crusty Vietnamese baguette that is the basis for a bánh mì sandwich, onto which a butter-mayonnaise spread is applied as well as a filling (traditionally pork), along with julienned pickled carrots and daikon (a sort of mild radish), onions, and cilantro.   (I never realized how much a sandwich could benefit from cilantro, and now add it to sandwiches at home.  An added benefit of the so-called Chinese parsley is its possible chelating effect—especially useful, if true, in counteracting the mercury found in such foods as tuna.)

BX offers nearly a dozen bánh mì sandwich selections, roughly half of which contain pork in some form (e.g., shredded, barbequed, even crushed into meatballs).  Additional choices include grilled chicken, turkey breast, cá tuna, and, possibly my favorite, cá mòi (sardine).  Regardless of the sandwich, I always order it spicy.  (Ba Xuyên's red sauce not only adds a moderate amount of heat, but also provides a rich, savory flavor.)  While most sandwiches cost $3.50, a few are higher, topping out at $4.25 for the tuna, another favorite.

For $2.50, you could try one of Ba Xuyên's unusual fruit shakes.  Condensed milk, light cream, fruit, and ice are blended together to produce a refreshing drink that isn’t particularly sweet.  Flavors include jackfruit (which the Chinese call sweet pineapple, a close description of the taste), litchi, taro, papaya, and strawberry.  Perhaps the most interesting, however is the durian.  Owing to its profoundly rank odor, the so-called king of fruit must be sold frozen in the United States and is not permitted aboard many airlines.  BX's shake produced therefrom, however, is not nearly so malodorous and is definitely worth a try.  I'd describe the flavor as a combination of egg salad and papaya.  Although the durian experiment might suggest that your courageous Comestiblogger possesses the temerity to drink almost anything, I've yet to muster the courage to try the avocado shake.

As an alternative to a shake, you could try one of the popular "pearl cold drinks," better known as bubble tea.  (Pearl, incidentally, refers to the large tapioca beads at the bottom of the drink.)  It's clear why the beverages come with such wide straws!  As with their shakes, BX's bubble teas are not sweet.  Their creaminess provides a nice counterbalance to the spice of the sandwiches, and the absence of sugar ensures that no cloying aftertaste comes between one’s palate and the enjoyment of the bánh mì. As for as the tapioca pearls, their charm lies in their chewy texture and the palate-cleansing effect they offer with every sip.  We found the honeydew melon bubble tea to be as pleasing to the palate as it is to the eye.

Other goodies are also available.  Among the dessert options, my Comestaccomplice sampled two: a sesame-encrusted ball filled with red bean paste, and an aspic torte which almost defies description, but which is a real winner.  The former's sesame coating does not overwhelm the dough and paste flavors.  To its enormous credit, the red bean paste filling lacks the waxy mouth-feel common among many other red-bean concoctions.  It is very smooth, and just barely sweetened.  Now, to describe the “torte,” the name, and, alas, contents of which we could only surmise.  (English is not a strong suit at BX.)  It consists of nine layers: three each of green aspic, purple aspic, and coconut cream.  Based on other forays into Vietnamese food, it's possible that the green layer is made from green bean juice, and the purple layer from red bean paste.  But at least the coconut is discernible.  Once again, the use of sugar is restrained.  In its place, a rich and earthy essence of coconut comes through, just sweet enough to enhance the savory flavors of the vegetable-based aspics.  Its refreshing, palate-cleansing properties make it a perfect finish to any meal, Vietnamese or otherwise.  As for price, two sesame rolls and one torte amounted to a whopping $2.80.

As we waited for our sandwiches to be prepared, we saw quite a few fresh-looking spring rolls sold—mostly containing some rather large shrimp, though a barbequed shredded pork also seemed to be enrolled.  I've never been disappointed with anything I've tried here, and clearly the spring rolls are a popular quick-stop pick.

Please bear in mind that BX closes at 6:30 P.M.  Although dining is limited to four tables, I've always found a seat.  On a pleasant day, however, you may opt to enhance your dining pleasure alfresco and enjoy spectacular views afforded by the park for which the neighborhood is named.  The entrance to Sunset Park is on Seventh Avenue, one block west.

 

Ba Xuyên

4222 Eighth Avenue (near 43^rd St), Sunset Park, Brooklyn

(718) 633-6601

By train: D,M to 9^th Avenue
By bus: B70, B35

The Beef in Bensonhurst and Bay Ridge

"It is what it is."  Nowhere is that sentiment more apropos, perhaps, than at John's Famous Deli in Brooklyn.  And no other place epitomizes Bensonhurst more than does the self-proclaimed "hero king," who rules within the shadow of the elevated BMT West End line.  Since 1967, John Cicero and his family have satisfied local appetites with their Italian-American eats.

Brooklyn is home to the roast beef hero.  Though there are many practitioners, few produce a hot beef hero as good as John's ($7.25; available daily except Mondays and Fridays).

Thinly sliced roast beef is piled onto a crusty hero roll, upon which mozzarella is layered.  (They used to offer a choice between mozzarella and American cheese, but the latter gave way to the superiority of the former.)  Order your sandwich with everything for the special dark-brown gravy (some have called it "black gold") and sautéed onions.  Find a table indoors or outdoors and be sure to have plenty of napkins handy.

John's also offers a number of other heros (including the Godfather), as well as hot plates, daily specials, and rice balls.  They even serve breakfast.  (Please click here to see the menu.)

This is a good stop before a Brooklyn Cyclones game (baseball the way it oughta be) at KeySpan Park, Coney Island.

And now there’s a branch in Bay Ridge.   Opened a month ago, the new John's transports the same menu westward to a more contemporary setting, replete with garden dining and table service.  Whereas the original offers parking, the newcomer, alas, does not.

Regardless of which location you visit, you'll hear the familiar refrain, "Thank you Subway!" to acknowledge a gratuity, or subway money, for the deli man.  (Speaking of subways, a Subway sandwich shop happens to share the block with the original John's.  It's almost analogous to having Domino's selling its "Brooklyn-style" pizza across the street from Di Fara's.)

 

John's Famous Deli

Bensonhurst:

2033 Stillwell Avenue (between 86^th St & Av T), Brooklyn

(718) 372-7481

By train: D to 25^th Avenue
By bus: B1

 

Bay Ridge:

8905 Third Avenue (near 89^th St), Brooklyn

(718) 238-8004

By train: R to 86^th Street
By bus: B37

http://www.johnsfamousdeli.com/

What a Day for an Orange Daydream

Though Spring is still playing peekaboo with the Northeast, a recent warm day seemed like a splendid occasion to try Reben Luncheonette's Morir Soñando.

After all, last year Saveur listed it as one of only two Gotham food highlights.  Furthermore, this little Williamsburg shop has been making its famous concoction over four-and-a-half decades.  The $3 drink even comes with a satisfaction guarantee!  It just has to be good, doesn't it?

The Morir Soñando (literally, "to die dreaming") is a Dominican beverage made with fresh-squeezed orange juice and milk, sweetened with sugar and vanilla syrup.

The flavors are reminiscent of an Orange Julius or, perhaps, a creamsicle.  Is it good?  Of course.  But …

While Reben's is widely considered to be the best, I find this Morir Soñando a little too sweet.  (The far less famous version served at El Gran Castillo de Jagua in Prospect Heights is more refreshing owing to judicious restraint of sucrose.)  In the end, I wasn't dreaming and I guess I'm still somewhat alive.

 

Reben Luncheonette

229 Havemeyer Street (near Broadway, next to McDonald's), Williamsburg, Brooklyn

(718) 338-7696

By train: J,M,Z to Marcy Avenue
By bus (from Manhattan): B39 to Washington Plaza

The Little Bistro Marchés on

The recent Dine In Brooklyn week afforded me the perfect occasion to try Le Petit Marché, a relative newcomer to North Brooklyn Heights—an area where only the strong survive.  Nearly a year-and-a half old, this little Gallic bistro is the sort of place that allows me to boast that, for the money, Brooklyn offers better dining than does Manhattan.

Chef Mick Pirnick produces sumptuous dishes with flavors that harmonize on the palate.

My starter of escargot broiled with garlic herb butter was garlicky, nicely seasoned (though a little salty), fresh, and quintessentially French.  Call me a traditionalist, but this classic preparation, served with a slice of toast, is preferable to more recent en croûte variations I've had.

As a main course, I chose the seared wild striped bass with Provençal dressing and spring vegetables.  The flavors of the fish and vegetables blended well.  Again, the ingredients were very fresh and well seasoned, except for some slight over-salting.  (Mind you, I'm not shy about salt—I typically add it to everything.)

Last, I was torn between the Tahitian vanilla crème brûlée and the warm strawberry rhubarb crisp à la mode—I chose the latter.  (All right, I’m not always a traditionalist.)  Unlike most desserts of this sort, this one was not overly sweet and, equally important, served as a much-needed reminder of spring's arrival.

Le Petit Marché is a pleasant addition to this end of Henry Street.  The tastefully decorated dining room with its exposed brick walls and tin ceiling befits the neighborhood.  The welcoming husband-and-wife team of Daniella Silone and Igor Tsan offer their essential personal touch; the service is professional and courteous.  One can really sense that they strive to please.  This one’s a keeper.

 

Le Petit Marché

46 Henry Street (bet. Cranberry & Middagh Sts), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn

(718) 858-9605

http://bkbistro.com/

By train: A,C to High Street or 2,3 to Clark Street

By bus: B25 to Cranberry Street;
From Manhattan: B51 to Cadman Plaza

View Larger Map

 

Water that Rose to the Occasion

My first visit to Rose Water came several years ago, shortly after it opened.  Union Street had been torn up, and thus encumbered both vehicular and pedestrian traffic.  Dust, noise, and other unpleasant side effects of construction seemed to foster an inauspicious start.  Nevertheless, this Park Slope "Seasonal American" eatery overcame the early obstacles and went on to flourish.  I went back recently during Dine In Brooklyn week.

Although chicken is not usually my first choice when I dine out, it's my favorite dish here.  The roasted bird is one of the most popular items on the menu with good reason.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The Dine In Brooklyn menu consisted of three courses for $23.  There was also an option to pair each course with a small glass of wine for an additional $14.  Though I usually rely on my instincts, it's not bad to pull my head out of the sand occasionally to try wine pairings I'd not have chosen myself.

I began my meal with a delicious, creamy cauliflower soup.  Nicely seasoned, though perhaps a bit too subtly, this rich potage seemed worthy of the calories.  A South Fork Chardonnay accompanied this course.  Perhaps I'm not quite ready for ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) club membership yet, since the pairing wasn't all that bad in my opinion.

A restaurant always receives extra credit for good bread, and more points yet for serving it with olive oil, as they do here.  The bread is rather good, with a firm, spongy texture.  The oil is also well-chosen.  Had the bread been a bit crustier, however, it could have received a few more Brownie points.

On to the main course.  Did I mention that I like Rose Water's roasted chicken?  It's tender and succulent.  Unaggressive seasoning allows the bird's natural flavors to come forward.

The food-friendly Dolcetto d'Alba was a well-chosen accompaniment to this dish.  Should you be unfamiliar with this wine, don't allow the name Dolcetto to suggest sweetness.  In fact, it's rather light and dry, having low acidity but some pronounced tannins.  I've always found its pairing with roasted chicken to be harmonious.

For dessert, I chose the caramelized brioche.  It was just a bit too sweet for my taste, but then, my threshold for sugary confection is lower than most people's.  A misnamed "PX Sherry" was paired with the final course.  If you're fond of sherries, you’ll recall that PX (Pedro Ximénez) is often used to sweeten dry ones.  By itself, however, it's dark brown, syrupy, and very sweet.  What I was served looked more like a White Zinfandel (fortunately the similarity ended there) and tasted like a sweetened sherry.  It's not something I'd have chosen—a real PX or Cream sherry would have been better—but it was interesting all the same.  But please don't call it PX.

Beyond Dine In Brooklyn week, Rose Water offers several prix fixe options: a three-course market menu Monday through Thursday for $28; a five-course Chef's tasting menu daily for $54; and a weekend brunch for $12.50.

Rose Water

787 Union Street (near 6^th Avenue), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 783-3800

http://rosewaterrestaurant.com/

By train:  to Union Street
By bus: B71 to 6^th Avenue