For more than sixty years, generations of New Yorkers have visited Junior's Restaurant to eat, kibbitz, and indulge in a slice of the fabulous cheesecake. So popular was their dessert that, when the restaurant caught fire in 1981, horrified onlookers shouted, "Save the cheesecake!" My most fabulous friends asked me to spread the word about their National Cheesecake Day celebration taking place a week from today. On 30 July 2015, dine-in guests who order an entrée at any of the four Junior's locations will receive a slice of cheesecake (any variety) at half-price. (One slice per guest.)
It could take an out-of-towner two passes down New Haven's Crown Street to find the improbably situated Louis' Lunch: smack in the middle of a parking lot, rather than among the restaurant cohort lining the opposite side of the street. The ancient, gnome-scaled brick edifice's location is, however, a testament to the burger joint's devoted following. City redevelopment plans had called for razing this diminutive landmark (a former tannery) to make way for a high-rise building. But in 1975, following years of wrangling between the owner and the city, public outcry saved the venerable luncheonette at the last moment. Dodging the wrecking ball by a matter of hours, the home of the hamburger was deracinated from its foundation at 202 George Street and moved to its present location—its fourth—about a block away.
It would be difficult to find a story more steeped in tradition than that of the Lassen family and the birth of the hamburger as we know it. The legend begins in 1895 with a lunch wagon on Meadow Street—near Union Station—from which Louis Lassen served steak sandwiches to factory workers. Not wanting to waste the trimmings, he ground and broiled the leftover meat. Initially, he served it as a patty, on a platter, together with a slice of onion and home fries. One day, however, a customer rushed in and requested a fast meal to go. Lassen responded by sandwiching one of his broiled patties between two slices of white bread, and with that, according to local lore, served the first hamburger. While this may be an interesting origins story, there must be another reason that Louis' Lunch, now in its fourth generation of family operation, is still in business after more than a century.
Indeed. Why didn't the denizens of the Elm City allow this family-run establishment to go the way of so many others during urban renewal? The answer is found between those two thin slices of white toast: a generous, top-quality ground beef patty, cooked in much the same way it was over a hundred years ago. Add onion and tomato ("the works"), cheese spread, or any combination thereof, if you must. But ultimately, it's all about the beef. Louis' Lunch takes this premise to an extreme by offering no other accompaniments or condiments (with the exception of salt and pepper packets, upon request). Please don't even think of asking for ketchup. The Lassens believe that such additions are unnecessary, and serve only to cover up mistakes. The enduring ban on condiments also honors the legacy of the founder. The point is, if they are going through the trouble of cutting and grinding their own fresh meat daily, you should taste the beef! (To those unfamiliar with Louis' credo, various signage offers a guide to their dogmatic service protocol.)
Returning to how deeply in tradition the food is steeped, Jeff Lassen rightly points out that his hamburgers owe part of their flavor to the original 1898 apparatus in which they're cooked. The gas-powered stoves from Bridge, Beach & Company afford a healthful side benefit, so to speak, by broiling the patties vertically to reduce excess grease. Over the years, the grills initiated by Jeff's great grandfather have been seasoned with the essence of burgers prepared for Charles Lindbergh, Artie Shaw, Bing Crosby, Rudy Vallee, and countless others. That's a quality for which there is no shortcut; it can only be earned with time.
The toaster tells a similar tale, nearly as old: it has been preparing the "bun"—two slices of Pepperidge Farm white bread—since 1929. As we waited for our burgers, we watched these antiques in action, marveling at how they continue to operate flawlessly after all these years—a testament to superior workmanship and caring ownership.
The verdict: the hamburger is good, honest food. Its flavor is fresh, clean, and lean. With onion and tomato options, Louis was astute in serving his mission—the additions complement the beef without masking anything. We found that a touch of salt was necessary to bring out all the succulence this fine burger has to offer. In an age of industrial fast food, this is (reasonably) fast food that tastes like real food. Simple, satisfying.
For the lunch crowd, the menu consists of exactly two choices: a hamburger or cheeseburger for $5. On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings, however, the menu often expands to include a hot dog and a steak sandwich.
If the bread is not enough, you can augment your carbs with potato salad, a wide selection of good-quality chips, and one or two homemade pie offerings. In addition, Louis' Lunch offers an impressive assortment of soft drinks, many of which are local and off-beat. But you will never, ever, enjoy a Coke here, because, as Jeff says, "we can carry a grudge." Jeff's grandfather Ervin Lassen (Louis' son) severed relations with Coca Cola during the Great Depression. Purportedly, an unscrupulous distributor decided that Louis' share of the soft drink could fetch a higher price on the black market. The Pepsi salesman, on the other hand, was eager to deal legitimately—his product was welcomed in and remains on the menu some 70 years later.
Nostalgia is one thing, but Louis' Lunch is sensitive to the current climate as well. Mindful of the economy, Jeff has held his prices down since 2006. Within the past year, he's even enlarged the burger by nearly an ounce as a way of giving his customers a little extra during tough times. (Though he doesn't specifically measure the patties, Jeff approximates the weight of each to be about six ounces.)
Fourth generation: Jeff Lassen, C.S.K. ("Crown Street King")
Decent people, decent food. That's a recipe worth saving.
Louis' Lunch
261-263 Crown Street (between College & High Sts) New Haven, CT 06511-6611 (map)
When I expressed my disappointment with Stamford's Olé Molé to my friend at the Vitamin Shoppe across the street, he suggested I try tawa, just a couple of miles down High Ridge Road. (Driving directions were complicated by the restaurant's location: in a row of shops on a one-way segment of a tangled intersection at which Route 137 changes street names from High Ridge Road to Cold Spring Road, and meets Long Ridge Road (Route 104), Summer and Bedford Streets—an area known as Bulls Head. Got it?)
Most Indian buffets I've sampled over the past several years have failed to impress. Dishes prepared with stale ingredients would be typically allowed to desiccate in their warming trays to the point at which they were suitable for astronaut consumption.
Tawa, however, represents a welcome departure from the foregoing scenario. Its recipe for a successful buffet includes fresh ingredients and a limited, but well-chosen, selection of hot dishes. The turnover at lunchtime ensures frequent replenishment of the steam trays so that each dish tastes as though it had been prepared to order.
The spices are uniquely bright in aroma and flavor, suggesting they may be ground on the premises. This alone makes every dish exceptionally tasty. Nevertheless, there was one standout among all the offerings: the Kalmi Kabab (marinated chicken wings and drumsticks). Unlike most chicken cooked in a tandoor (clay oven), this one was was succulent, tender, and delicious.
Incidentally, the name tawa (tah·vah, rhymes with ça va) refers to a pan or griddle used in the preparation of breads, or roti. A few of the eponymous cooking implements adorn tawa's dining room walls.
Though the price of the executive lunch buffet was increased from $9.95 to $11 this year, it still represents a good value. In addition, every sixth lunch is free with a lunch club card.
My travels often take me up the Merritt Parkway, through Connecticut. For various reasons, High Ridge Road (Exit 35) in Stamford is a convenient stopover for me. Olé Molé, a little Mexican place not far from the off-ramp, had been on my radar for some time. I recently succumbed to my curiosity and gave it a try.
Perhaps I've become a bit jaded by the good Mexican food in New York and the yet better stuff in California. Or maybe Olé Molé just isn't all that good. My Comestaccomplice and I tried a couple of dishes that weren't bad, but lacked the allure of a repeat visit. The relatively high prices further decreased the likelihood of our return.
The flavorless salsa that accompanied the chips seemed to portend what was to come. The Enchiladas Suizas (red corn tortillas with chicken, vegetables, and cheese, served with salsa verde and mole negro) at $12.95 were bland, but slightly better than the tough, uninspired Pollo Juarez (grilled marinated chicken breast, served with a mole verde) for $13.95. All platillos come with rice, beans, and flour tortillas. There's an additional charge of 50¢ for extra ingredients (i.e., rice, beans, lettuce, onion, tortillas, jalapeño, cheese, sour cream, small salsas).
The lack of flavor is surprising, given the high quality of the ingredients, which are obviously fresh, and the individual preparation of each dish made therefrom.
Though slow, the service was pleasant and courteous. Our requests for salsa replenishments were all accommodated cheerfully. Unfortunately, the ambiance of the limited dining area has all the appeal of a fast-food establishment. The outdoor (parking lot) seating holds similar appeal. Overall, this little place is not all that bad, but doesn't truly Merritt another visit.
Olé Molé
1030 High Ridge Road (near Olga Dr) Stamford, CT 06905-1605 (map)
All contents on the Comestiblog website are protected by copyright. No portion of the pages of this web site may be reproduced in any form or by any means except those provided by law, without the prior written consent of Comestiblog.
Recent Comments