For more than sixty years, generations of New Yorkers have visited Junior's Restaurant to eat, kibbitz, and indulge in a slice of the fabulous cheesecake. So popular was their dessert that, when the restaurant caught fire in 1981, horrified onlookers shouted, "Save the cheesecake!" My most fabulous friends asked me to spread the word about their National Cheesecake Day celebration taking place a week from today. On 30 July 2015, dine-in guests who order an entrée at any of the four Junior's locations will receive a slice of cheesecake (any variety) at half-price. (One slice per guest.)
When I received an invitation to try a brand new restaurant called The Cake Lounge in Little Ferry, New Jersey, I wasn't sure quite what to expect. Walking past Palermo's Café & Bakery, and ascending the steps to the floor directly above it, I assumed this would be an intimate evening spot for desserts, drinks, and live music. Ah, but this charming place turned out to be so much more than, well, a cake lounge.
With a nod to their native home in Sicily, the Bruno family established Palermo's Custom Cakes & Bakery some thirty years ago in the Garden State. Having earned wide recognition for their superb confections over the decades, they felt it was a propitious time to extend their brand beyond cakes and pastries. "We wanted to open up something where we could combine our background in sweets with the savory front-end [Italian] cuisine," co-owner Paolo Bruno explained, adding, "We wanted to keep it as authentic and as upscale as possible for the area."
Dining area with Cake Gallery and full-service bar in the background
Eclectic is perhaps best way to describe this contemporary Italian restaurant. Though seemingly random, the disparate collection of elements in the dining room was curated, with careful attention to detail, to afford an exquisite setting for dinner, dessert, drinks, or, as was the case for my Comestaccomplice and me, a fabulous evening out.
Before we even looked at our menus, two important aspects of the overall experience revealed themselves. First, the dining area was designed for the visual, physical, and auditory comfort of the diner. There was an emphasis on contrasting materials and textures throughout; the interplay of different woods, granites, and limestone in various shades of cream and black, together with a skillful use of glass and mirrors, created a stunning yet calming environment. Replicas of famous landmarks and a statue of Buddha stood out among the diverse sculptured confections on display in the unique Cake Gallery along the dining room's southern wall. "We wanted it to be upscale contemporary with a bit of an urban chic feel to it," Mr. Bruno told us. Grounding this setting was the creamy-soft leather upholstery of the chairs and banquettes.
Further punctuating the tone of casual opulence was the tasteful, live background music—comprising mostly Italian-American standards—that alternated between vocal and instrumental. (On our Thursday visit, we were treated to the musical stylings of John Micalizzi.) The only off-note in the vibe was the pair of televisions mounted over the bar—one tuned to sports news, the other to European football games. A glass partition between the bar area and the dining room did little to abate the distraction of the large screens.
The second memorable aspect of our evening was the impeccable service. We were greeted warmly and treated graciously. After declining two tables, we were finally settled, most elegantly, into one of the best in the house: a semicircular six-top reminiscent of the golden age of Hollywood. The headwaiter, Gennaro, came here from Sicily specifically to lend his hospitality skills to his family's new venture. He and his assistant were flawless in their service; they were informative and solicitous without being obtrusive. When one of us, attempting to exercise frugality, ordered an inexpensive wine, we were made to feel good about the selection. While many other establishments patronize the patron at this juncture, Gennaro made us feel comfortable.
Video: Gennaro describes I Piatti del Giorno
Perhaps the best part of this agreeable atmosphere was the absence of the rarefied air that typically excludes all but a privileged few; in less than three months, The Cake Lounge has established itself as a welcoming place for all. "We didn't want to create something that was outside of its own demographic," Mr. Bruno told us. That sentiment was also reflected in the reasonable menu prices: generous appetizers and pasta dishes were priced in the teens; mains ranged from the low 20s into the 40s.
We began with complimentary bruschetta, an appetizing start to our sumptuous banchetto.
Bruschetta
One of the most telling aspects of any restaurant experience, at least for this diner, is the quality of the bread, and yes, the butter. The Cake Lounge scored highly in this category. The bread was crusty, creamy, and yeasty in proper proportion. While I prefer olive oil with my bread, I simply had to taste the butter as well. The burro had a rich, farm-fresh flavor, though possibly a grain too salty—but certainly not enough to lose points.
Stuffed Artichoke
Almost all our dishes were selected from the chef's menu. Our starters, though quite sapid, did not really provide an accurate indication of what was to follow. While the Stuffed Artichoke—a whole flower head, stuffed with Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, and garlic—was rather tasty, its unctuousness made the dish slightly heavy.
Caprese
The Caprese was presented as a tower of alternating fresh mozzarella and tomato slices, culminating in a crown of fresh basil leaves, with roasted peppers encircling its base. This beautiful interpretation elevated a simple salad to artistic heights. Because this starter was listed on the regular menu, I should like to try it again when tomatoes are in season.
Rack of Lamb alla Romana
Our secondi were truly a main event. The Rack of Lamb alla Romana—brushed with Dijon mustard and sprinkled with seasoned bread crumbs—was outstanding. Upon determining what rare meant at this restaurant, my dining partner ordered her lamb medium rare to ensure the rack would be red rather than blue. It proved to be the right choice, for the doneness of the eight chops varied considerably—from medium on the outer ones to rare on the ones inside. The meat was as tender as could be, imparting deeply grassy and pure flavors as it melted in the mouth. While a mustard application can often overpower such a dish, the light touch of Dijon complemented the lamb's flavor in perfect measure. A glass of Villa di Capezzana Carmignano—with its medium firm dark fruit, hints of smoke, and smooth tannins—was the perfect wine pairing for this viand.
Fillet of Salmon with artichoke hearts, Boursin, and bread crumbs
My Fillet of Salmon—topped with artichoke hearts, Boursin, and bread crumbs—was a pleasant departure from the usual preparations. The creaminess of the seasoned cheese, together with the mild acidity of the Mediterranean thistle hearts, matched the rich flavors of the perfectly cooked salmon, without overwhelming them. A glass of Primarius Pinot Noir—a light-medium-bodied Oregonian, with berry flavors and slight smokiness—was an exquisite wine partner to this fish dish. As with the lamb, this generous serving was plated artistically with its accompanying mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables. Both mains were as delightful visually as they were gustatorily.
To even think of forgoing dessert at The Cake Lounge would be utter folly. One look at the tray of luscious dolci immediately overpowered any possible resistance we could have offered.
Dolci (l-r): Cannolo, Lobster Tail, Double Chocolate Cake with Ganache, and Tiramisù
Lobster Tail
My Comestaccomplice's initial reaction to the confectionery Lobster Tail was, "Wow, that's one serving?" After a very satisfying meal, it seemed almost too decadent to contemplate such an enormous portion. Upon taking her first bite, however, any misgivings dissipated quickly. This creamy crustacean was a marvelous marriage of flaky, buttery pastry with thick, rich whipped cream. Its perfect sweetness was achieved by judicious restraint in the use of sugar; there was just enough to distinguish the dairy flavor of the cream from that of the crust. While both elements were deep and rich, their flavors were clean and pure at the same time. When dairy becomes even slightly old, it imparts a faint barnyard flavor—before turning sour. The components of this sweet Tail were clearly fresh.
Lobster Tail with Espresso Martini and coffee
My companion's luxurious Espresso Martini was so seductive, she wanted to sip it all night. Martinis are not only specialty cocktails here, they're also confections. In addition to serving cake-inspired martini drinks, The Cake Lounge offers signature martini desserts—e.g., Strawberry Shortcake, Tiramisù, Nocciola, Red Velvet, etc.—crafted and served in martini glasses.
Tiramisù
For my final course, I chose the more traditional Tiramisù. As with everything that preceded it, this lovely layered dessert was fashioned into a delicious work of art. The flavors of the coffee-infused ladyfingers, creamy mascarpone custard, and cocoa, paired exquisitely with a cup of espresso and a large snifter of Sambuca con la Mosca (literally, "Sambuca with the fly"). There were indeed "flies" in my liqueur—in the form of toasted coffee beans. It was a marvelous cap to a highly satisfying evening.
Tiramisù with Sambuca con la Mosca
Launched just eleven weeks ago, The Cake Lounge has enjoyed an auspicious start. "As we move forward in the next few months, we'll be doing wine pairings, spirits pairings, cocktail pairings, along with dessert pairings," said Paolo Bruno, adding, "We're going to be introducing dessert flights with spirit, beverage, and cocktail flights … something you can't get anywhere else." The future surely looks sweet.
The Cake Lounge
389 Liberty Street (CR 503), 2nd Floor (NE corner Harding Pl) Little Ferry, N.J. 07643-1008 (map)
For this year's bûche de Noël, I returned to one of my favorite French pastry shops on the Upper East Side. When last I purchased a Yule log (a sinful Saumur) from Payard, it was at the pâtisserie's original site at 1032 Lexington Avenue—a hallowed space that once housed the delightful Délices La Côte Basque, and its desirous successor, Désirs La Côte Basque. After the inexplicably long hiatus, I felt a bûche from Payard was overdue.
Beyond having relocated one block east to 1293 Third Avenue (next to J.G. Melon), Payard has added several new locations in Manhattan, as well as branches in Las Vegas, Japan, and Korea. Payard's expansion and continued success should come as no surprise to anyone. A third-generation pâtissier, François Payard found himself immersed in the art of pastry while growing up around his grandfather's acclaimed Au Nid des Friandises in Nice, France. After burnishing his skills under the tutelage of his family, Mr. Payard left the French Riviera for Paris, where he became the pastry chef at the venerable La Tour d’Argent, and later at Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton. After Paris, where else but New York? In August of 1997, following successful stints at Le Bernadin and Restaurant Daniel, François Payard opened his eponymous pâtisserie and bistro at the aforementioned Lexington Avenue address.
Payard's selection of bûches de Noël this year seemed more tempting yet than what I could recall from my last visit: Chestnut Cassis (vanilla bean pound cake with candied chestnut mousse, cassis crémeux, and poached cassis); Chocolate & Berries (milk and dark chocolate mousse, chocolate flourless cake, raspberry, strawberry, and currant jam, and raspberry crémeux); Caramel Chocolate (sablé breton topped with caramel mascarpone, salted caramel chocolate mousse, and chocolate cake); and the Louvre (layers of chocolate and hazelnut mousse, with a crispy hazelnut wafer, hazelnut dacquoise cake, and dark chocolate glaze). The foregoing bûches were available in sizes of four ($28), six ($42), and eight ($56) servings.
Left to Right: Chestnut Cassis, Chocolate & Berries, and Caramel Chocolate
The Louvre log (6p, $42)
Though each was extremely appealing, I chose the six-serving Louvre, a work of art worthy of its name. This rich, decadent bûche delivered the sort of complexity not normally found in such a confection. The various levels of hazelnut, chocolate, and cake, each with its own flavor and texture, were coated in an exquisite dark chocolate ganache, and embellished with macaron "mushrooms." François Payard's Louvre elevates the Yule log to a veritable art form.
All the artistry comes at the expense of tradition and verisimilitude, however. Payard's bûches lack the rustic look and feel of a log. Absent are the nubs, the bark-textured frosting, and the meringue mushrooms. That said, it's hard to find fault with Payard's exquisite pastry; it's among the finest I've tasted.
Layers of chocolate and hazelnut mousse, a crispy hazelnut wafer, and hazelnut dacquoise cake
Finally, to add a little Christmas spirit to the Louvre log, a glass of Frangelico is the perfect accompanying libation.
FP Pâtisserie
1293 Third Avenue (near 74th Street), Upper East Side, Manhattan (map)
One of my favorite desserts this time of year is the bûche de Noël, or Yule log. As its name and shape suggest, this iconic French confection represents the European tradition of burning a large log in the hearth to celebrate Christmas and the winter solstice. Today, the name bûche is used, almost exclusively, to refer to the softer, comestible log.
8" Grand Marnier Bûche de Noël from Ceci-Cela
Essentially, a bûche de Noël (pronounced büsh dih noh·ELL, where ü refers to the German ü or the French u sound) is a génoise (or similar sponge cake) roll, filled with buttercream, and frosted to look like tree bark. Ends are often sliced off and fused to the top to resemble stubs of severed branches. Furthermore, meringue mushrooms are typically included as an edible decoration to the log. Many creative pasty chefs even insert diminutive plastic saws and axes to round out the arborcultural motif.
As it has in various Yuletides past, our bûche came from Ceci-Cela this year. Known for its made-from-scratch délices, this NoLita pâtisserie française has long been a favorite of mine. Pastry chef Laurent Dupal, a native of Nancy, France, began his rise when he embarked on his study of baking at the age of 13. Classically trained at the prestigious Compagnons du Devoir du Tour de France, Dupal produces masterly pastries of all sorts.
While a chocolate buttercream filling is traditional, I opted for Grand Marnier this time. Irrespective of flavor, two aspects of this dessert are critical to my delectation: restrained sweetness and spongy texture. When the foregoing elements are at their peak, my enjoyment is practically assured. Chef Dupal met both criteria in grand style to yield a bûche that delighted my senses with simple, fresh, and delicate flavors rolled into a beautiful and complex presentation. But why was the Grand Marnier frosting pink?
While my Comestaccomplice enjoyed the Yule log without additional flavoring, I found that a drizzle of Grand Marnier added the perfect finishing touch. Of course, an accompanying glass of the liqueur was de rigueur.
Ceci-Cela
55 Spring Street (near Lafayette Street),
NoLita, Manhattan (map)
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