Comestiblog

The Cake Lounge in Little Ferry, N.J.

When I received an invitation to try a brand new restaurant called The Cake Lounge in Little Ferry, New Jersey, I wasn't sure quite what to expect.  Walking past Palermo's Café & Bakery, and ascending the steps to the floor directly above it, I assumed this would be an intimate evening spot for desserts, drinks, and live music.  Ah, but this charming place turned out to be so much more than, well, a cake lounge.

With a nod to their native home in Sicily, the Bruno family established Palermo's Custom Cakes & Bakery some thirty years ago in the Garden State.  Having earned wide recognition for their superb confections over the decades, they felt it was a propitious time to extend their brand beyond cakes and pastries.  "We wanted to open up something where we could combine our background in sweets with the savory front-end [Italian] cuisine," co-owner Paolo Bruno explained, adding, "We wanted to keep it as authentic and as upscale as possible for the area."

Dining area with Cake Gallery and full-service bar in the background

Eclectic is perhaps best way to describe this contemporary Italian restaurant.  Though seemingly random, the disparate collection of elements in the dining room was curated, with careful attention to detail, to afford an exquisite setting for dinner, dessert, drinks, or, as was the case for my Comestaccomplice and me, a fabulous evening out.

Before we even looked at our menus, two important aspects of the overall experience revealed themselves.  First, the dining area was designed for the visual, physical, and auditory comfort of the diner.  There was an emphasis on contrasting materials and textures throughout; the interplay of different woods, granites, and limestone in various shades of cream and black, together with a skillful use of glass and mirrors, created a stunning yet calming environment.  Replicas of famous landmarks and a statue of Buddha stood out among the diverse sculptured confections on display in the unique Cake Gallery along the dining room's southern wall.  "We wanted it to be upscale contemporary with a bit of an urban chic feel to it," Mr. Bruno told us.  Grounding this setting was the creamy-soft leather upholstery of the chairs and banquettes.

Further punctuating the tone of casual opulence was the tasteful, live background music—comprising mostly Italian-American standards—that alternated between vocal and instrumental.  (On our Thursday visit, we were treated to the musical stylings of John Micalizzi.)  The only off-note in the vibe was the pair of televisions mounted over the bar—one tuned to sports news, the other to European football games.  A glass partition between the bar area and the dining room did little to abate the distraction of the large screens.

The second memorable aspect of our evening was the impeccable service.  We were greeted warmly and treated graciously.  After declining two tables, we were finally settled, most elegantly, into one of the best in the house: a semicircular six-top reminiscent of the golden age of Hollywood.  The headwaiter, Gennaro, came here from Sicily specifically to lend his hospitality skills to his family's new venture.  He and his assistant were flawless in their service; they were informative and solicitous without being obtrusive.  When one of us, attempting to exercise frugality, ordered an inexpensive wine, we were made to feel good about the selection.  While many other establishments patronize the patron at this juncture, Gennaro made us feel comfortable.

Video: Gennaro describes I Piatti del Giorno

Perhaps the best part of this agreeable atmosphere was the absence of the rarefied air that typically excludes all but a privileged few; in less than three months, The Cake Lounge has established itself as a welcoming place for all.  "We didn't want to create something that was outside of its own demographic," Mr. Bruno told us.  That sentiment was also reflected in the reasonable menu prices: generous appetizers and pasta dishes were priced in the teens; mains ranged from the low 20s into the 40s.

We began with complimentary bruschetta, an appetizing start to our sumptuous banchetto.

Bruschetta

One of the most telling aspects of any restaurant experience, at least for this diner, is the quality of the bread, and yes, the butter.  The Cake Lounge scored highly in this category.  The bread was crusty, creamy, and yeasty in proper proportion.  While I prefer olive oil with my bread, I simply had to taste the butter as well.  The burro had a rich, farm-fresh flavor, though possibly a grain too salty—but certainly not enough to lose points.

Stuffed Artichoke

Almost all our dishes were selected from the chef's menu.  Our starters, though quite sapid, did not really provide an accurate indication of what was to follow.  While the Stuffed Artichoke—a whole flower head, stuffed with Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs, and garlic—was rather tasty, its unctuousness made the dish slightly heavy.

Caprese

The Caprese was presented as a tower of alternating fresh mozzarella and tomato slices, culminating in a crown of fresh basil leaves, with roasted peppers encircling its base.  This beautiful interpretation elevated a simple salad to artistic heights.  Because this starter was listed on the regular menu, I should like to try it again when tomatoes are in season.

Rack of Lamb alla Romana

Our secondi were truly a main event.  The Rack of Lamb alla Romana—brushed with Dijon mustard and sprinkled with seasoned bread crumbs—was outstanding.  Upon determining what rare meant at this restaurant, my dining partner ordered her lamb medium rare to ensure the rack would be red rather than blue.  It proved to be the right choice, for the doneness of the eight chops varied considerably—from medium on the outer ones to rare on the ones inside.  The meat was as tender as could be, imparting deeply grassy and pure flavors as it melted in the mouth.  While a mustard application can often overpower such a dish, the light touch of Dijon complemented the lamb's flavor in perfect measure.  A glass of Villa di Capezzana Carmignano—with its medium firm dark fruit, hints of smoke, and smooth tannins—was the perfect wine pairing for this viand.

Fillet of Salmon with artichoke hearts, Boursin, and bread crumbs

My Fillet of Salmon—topped with artichoke hearts, Boursin, and bread crumbs—was a pleasant departure from the usual preparations.  The creaminess of the seasoned cheese, together with the mild acidity of the Mediterranean thistle hearts, matched the rich flavors of the perfectly cooked salmon, without overwhelming them.  A glass of Primarius Pinot Noir—a light-medium-bodied Oregonian, with berry flavors and slight smokiness—was an exquisite wine partner to this fish dish.  As with the lamb, this generous serving was plated artistically with its accompanying mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables.  Both mains were as delightful visually as they were gustatorily.

To even think of forgoing dessert at The Cake Lounge would be utter folly.  One look at the tray of luscious dolci immediately overpowered any possible resistance we could have offered.

Dolci (l-r): Cannolo, Lobster Tail, Double Chocolate Cake with Ganache, and Tiramisù

Lobster Tail

My Comestaccomplice's initial reaction to the confectionery Lobster Tail was, "Wow, that's one serving?" After a very satisfying meal, it seemed almost too decadent to contemplate such an enormous portion.  Upon taking her first bite, however, any misgivings dissipated quickly.  This creamy crustacean was a marvelous marriage of flaky, buttery pastry with thick, rich whipped cream.  Its perfect sweetness was achieved by judicious restraint in the use of sugar; there was just enough to distinguish the dairy flavor of the cream from that of the crust.  While both elements were deep and rich, their flavors were clean and pure at the same time.  When dairy becomes even slightly old, it imparts a faint barnyard flavor—before turning sour.  The components of this sweet Tail were clearly fresh.

Lobster Tail with Espresso Martini and coffee

My companion's luxurious Espresso Martini was so seductive, she wanted to sip it all night.  Martinis are not only specialty cocktails here, they're also confections.  In addition to serving cake-inspired martini drinks, The Cake Lounge offers signature martini desserts—e.g., Strawberry Shortcake, Tiramisù, Nocciola, Red Velvet, etc.—crafted and served in martini glasses.

Tiramisù

For my final course, I chose the more traditional Tiramisù.  As with everything that preceded it, this lovely layered dessert was fashioned into a delicious work of art.  The flavors of the coffee-infused ladyfingers, creamy mascarpone custard, and cocoa, paired exquisitely with a cup of espresso and a large snifter of Sambuca con la Mosca (literally, "Sambuca with the fly").  There were indeed "flies" in my liqueur—in the form of toasted coffee beans.  It was a marvelous cap to a highly satisfying evening.

Tiramisù with Sambuca con la Mosca

Launched just eleven weeks ago, The Cake Lounge has enjoyed an auspicious start.  "As we move forward in the next few months, we'll be doing wine pairings, spirits pairings, cocktail pairings, along with dessert pairings," said Paolo Bruno, adding, "We're going to be introducing dessert flights with spirit, beverage, and cocktail flights … something you can't get anywhere else."  The future surely looks sweet.

The Cake Lounge

389 Liberty Street (CR 503), 2^nd Floor (NE corner Harding Pl)
Little Ferry, N.J.  07643-1008  (map)

(201) 336-9819

http://thecakelounge.com/
https://twitter.com/The_CakeLounge
https://www.facebook.com/thecakeloungenj
https://plus.google.com/115930657381864915451
https://www.pinterest.com/thecakelounge/

A Fluke?

No, this is not another rant about a Georgetown law student.  Rather, it's a pictorial post of a marvelous meal I enjoyed recently:  Fluke Piccata.  Also known as summer flounder, fluke is found along the Atlantic Coast of the United States and Canada.  This particular flatfish specimen hailed from the waters off Long Island.  It was prepared with lemon, butter, and spices, topped with capers, and served with white beans.  Molto delizioso!

High and Dry at Giando on the Water

It's hard to imagine a more spectacular space in which to dine than the one at Brooklyn's Giando on the Water.  Situated at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge, this old-line Italian-American restaurant takes full advantage of its location along the East River.  Its soaring ceilings, glass walls, and sparkling opulence provide an ideal setting for watching the sun descend through the screen of the Manhattan skyline.  Bundle the foregoing elements with easy access and ample parking, and Giando would seem to be the quintessential special-occasion venue—for a wedding party, family reunion, or other catered affair.  The very best reason to visit, however, is to lose yourself in the eyes of your date, when distractions such as food and wine are unnecessary, or even unwelcome.  Go for the romance, because you're certainly not going there for the food.

The meals aren't bad, they're simply banal.  Perhaps this point was emphasized by the sharp contrast between the extraordinary surroundings and the extremely ordinary comestibles.  But the upshot is that the food is unmemorable, in the most literal way.  What was the sauce on my salmon?  Something a little buttery?  Did my Comestaccomplice have the Chicken Piccata, or was it Francese?  I had to rely solely on my dining notes for all my recollections.

Insalata Capricciosa

For the record, I ordered the Broiled Salmon Dijon (listed on the menu as "De Jon").  Hints of mustard enhanced the fish slightly, but the flavorless broccoli and forgettable potatoes made this seem like a dish that could have been served at Olive Garden.  My Comestaccomplice's Chicken al Limone was of the same caliber: a little lemony and a lot ordinary.  The Insalata Capricciosa, er, salad, wasn't quite up to the aforementioned Olive Garden's standards.  (And it didn't even come with breadsticks!)  For dessert, the so-called Homemade Chocolate Cake seemed industrial.

Broiled Salmon Dijon

The wine list had its own problems.  It's wildly overpriced, with offerings that do battle with the many lighter and more subtle menu offerings.  We'd finally found one bottle that would complement our dishes, but apparently so had everyone else: it was sold out.  We couldn't find a single other bottle that would suit our main courses.  This may have been the only moderate-to-fine-dining meal at which my dining partner and I had forgone some sort of alcoholic beverage.  Even if it's a glass of wine, a beer, or a mixed drink, we invariably enjoy some type of libation at dinner.  We tried hard, honestly we did, but it simply couldn't happen in light of Giando's offerings.

Chicken al Limone

At least we had the beautiful setting and well-trained waitstaff at our disposal … well, sort of.  Once it became clear that there was to be no wine served to us, we were all but abandoned in favor of the two or three other tables occupied that evening.  (The staff-to-customer ratio was close to par.)  Since the 20% service charge is obligatory, why bother making any effort to earn it?

Homemade Chocolate Cake

There was little benefit to visiting here for the Dine In Brooklyn promotion.  As it turns out, Giando on the Water offers three-course Prima sera specials all year (Monday through Friday) for $25.95.  For the two of us, the restaurant-week savings amounted to less than two dollars.  Perhaps I shouldn't be too critical, however.  Three courses and a magnificent view for $25 isn't all that bad.

Giando on the Water

400 Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn   (map)

(718) 387-7000

http://www.giandoonthewater.com/

By train:  to Marcy Av
By bus:  Q59

New Year's Eve Cotechino con Lenticchie

No Italian New Year's Eve dinner is complete without Cotechino con Lenticchie, a traditional dish of lentils and fresh pork sausage.  Symbolizing coins, lentils are believed to bring luck and prosperity for the coming year.  Cotechino (pronounced koh·teh·KEE·no) is a mild, fatty sausage of considerable girth (roughly three inches in diameter).  It is made from coteca (pork rind) and meat from the cheek, neck, and shoulder, and seasoned delicately with clove, nutmeg, salt, and pepper.  The resulting sausage is very soft—almost to the point of being creamy.

My pre-New Year's Eve sample of this holiday classic came in the form of a warm bowl of Umbrian lentil soup with cotechino.  Will it bring me prosperity early?

Felice Anno Nuovo!

Dine Richly at Pó Brooklyn

In 1993, before his celebrity on the Food Network, Mario Batali opened Pó, a small trattoria in Manhattan's West Village.  Despite the founding chef's departure seven years later, the Cornelia Street eatery continued to thrive.  Following the success of the original, Pó Brooklyn was launched in 2007 and has been on my radar ever since.  A friend's recommendation, nay, insistence, compelled me to try the Smith Street edition during Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.

It was rainy and raw the day of my visit.  Mother Nature did little to brighten the dim interior, which my Comestaccomplice called soigné.  Nevertheless, the white table linen lightened the dark and cozy dining room while adding a touch of elegance to the casual setting.  The service was consistent with the ambiance—very accommodating without being intrusive.

The restaurant week menu choices were considerable, comprising four starters, five main courses, and three desserts.  Worthy representatives from the regular menu, including vegetarian options, were selected judiciously.  In general, gustatory ratings for promotional prix-fixe specials range from tolerable to very good.  The cucina of Pó Brooklyn raises the bar, however—my meal was excellent in nearly every respect.  Lacking any hint of mass production, each dish looked and tasted as though Chef Lee McGrath had prepared it especially for me.  This trattoria represents one of the best values I've encountered during Dine-In Brooklyn—not necessarily in quantity, but in quality.  It's hard to imagine a better $23 dinner anywhere.

White Bean Bruschetta

Our meal began with a complimentary (normally $2) White Bean Bruschetta.  The combination of canellini beans, olive oil, herbs and spices (including hot red pepper flakes, the sine qua non of Batali dishes) provided a pleasant deviation from common tomato-based toppings.  Receiving a corresponding recipe card with our snack added an ingratiating touch.  We were off to a propitious start.

Cured Tuna

My Cured Tuna antipasto yielded a bit of a surprise: the blend of tuna, canellini beans, sliced artichokes, and red onion atop a bed of frisée—all amid a chili-mint vinaigrette—gave every indication of being an insalata.  Regardless of its name, however, the successful union of ingredients resulted in an uncomplicated, yet excellent, starter.

Cider Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin

My secondo piatto, unlike my "antipasto," was much as I had envisioned it to be.  The Cider-Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin with braised cabbage and apple mostarda combined elements in a manner akin to reuniting old chums.  Though well-prepared and beautifully presented, this dish took no risks and demonstrated little desire to stray from anyone's comfort zone.  There's nothing intrinsically wrong with that, because it was tasty.  But in the company of more inspired offerings, the pork tenderloin was bit trite.

Grilled Guinea Hen

I realized I could have chosen a better main course upon sampling my Comestaccomplice's Grilled Guinea Hen.  It was a masterpiece that united simplicity with exquisite flavors.  Grilled and seasoned to a dark perfection, the bird was served atop pumpkin-and-scallion fregula (pearl-shaped pasta) and encircled by a ring of olive oil and saba (Italian grape syrup).  This was the pièce de résistance of the evening—a veritable symphony of flavors.  The succulent hen, with its masterly preparation, provided incentive enough for me to become a regular here.

Dark Chocolate Terrine

Finally, the dolce did not disappoint.  My Dark Chocolate Terrine (amaretti Sorrano, Vin Santo, and  espresso-caramel sauce) tasted every bit as good as it looked and left me with a sort of cacao "high."  It provided a sweet ending to a marvelous meal that didn't make me Po'.  This was a delightful meal, from start to finish.  But then, alas, it was back into the rain for me …

Pó Brooklyn

276 Smith Street (between Degraw & Sackett Sts), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 875-1980

http://www.porestaurant.com/

By train:  to Carroll Street (exit at President St)
By bus:  B71, B75

 

Lunch at Central Grocery

There's nothing like a stroll through the French Quarter to help burn a few breakfast calories.  As we wend our way through the charming streets, we pause at various landmarks, museums, and shops.  After a visit to the French Market, it's time for lunch.

Would having a sandwich be too banal in this epicurean city?  Yes, if it were an ordinary ham-and-cheese or something of that sort.  But I have an extraordinary kind in mind—a Muffuletta (pronounced "moof·fuh·LET·tah," often abbreviated, simply, to "muff").  It's made with a fresh, round loaf of Italian bread, onto which generous quantities of imported salami, ham, cheese, mortadella, and special olive salad are layered, and served at room temperature.  (Don't even think of asking to have it warmed!)  This is one big, tasty sandwich that easily feeds two people.  Half a sandwich at midday is ample—especially if one is still planning to have dinner.

As we cross Decatur Street and enter Central Grocery, we take a step backward through time.  The old-fashioned Italian-American emporium that proclaims itself to be the "home of the original Muffuletta" gives the impression of having forgone any sort of redecoration since its founding in 1906.  Apparently, there's no need to change—this place draws visitors from all corners of the globe.  No trip to New Orleans is complete without a stop here.  The Muffuletta's putative place of origin is also where the sandwich reaches its acme of perfection.  Purportedly, it was created here by Salvatore Lupo the same year he founded the grocery.  Though time seems to have stood still at Central Grocery, its most famous product remains a timeless classic.

Central Grocery Co.

923 Decatur Street  (between N. Peters & St. Philip Sts)
New Orleans, LA   70116-3307   (map)

(504) 523-1620

 

Marco Polo Turns 25

Last Tuesday marked the silver anniversary of Marco Polo Ristorante.  To celebrate, the famed Italian eatery is offering a three-course, prix fixe menu: $19.83 for lunch and $25 for dinner (to commemorate their inaugural year and their years in business, respectively).  The special menu is available for 25 days, from 5 June till the end of the month.

Seven starters are offered, including a soup-of-the-day, a salad, or one of the old favorites such as Carciofo alla Contadina (artichoke stuffed with breadcrumbs and cheese) and Calamari con Cannellini e Grano (squid served with cannellini beans and grain).

I chose the Mozzarella con Pomodoro e Basilico (homemade mozzarella with sliced tomato, basil, and extra virgin olive oil).  I probably should have ordered something else.  The fresh mozzarella was a bit dry and rubbery, and the tomatoes were, alas, commensurate with the season.  By contrast, I'd tried the stuffed artichoke on a previous visit and consider it to be a better choice.

There are a dozen secondi from which to select, including many traditional dishes like Pollo Scarpariello (chicken sautéed with garlic, white wine, rosemary, and lemon) and Vitello Piccata (veal scaloppini topped with artichokes in a white wine sauce), as well as fish, seafood, and vegetable dishes.

Happily, my second course made up for the disappointing appetizer.  I ordered the Salmone Tornado Alla Mostarda (salmon over spinach in a mustard sauce) but my waiter returned moments later to inform me that the salmon was no longer available.  The chef kindly offered to prepare a sole in a similar fashion.  It turned out to be an excellent substitution.  The sole was moist, flaky, and delicious.  The mashed potatoes were tasty, but oh, so rich.  A glass of pinot grigio made a fine accompaniment.

Sole over spinach with mashed potatoes and a glass of pinot grigio

Even though I dined relatively early, only two of the three listed desserts were available.  The Charlotte di Venezia (sponge cake filled with torrone gelato topped with hot chocolate sauce) sounded rather tempting, but I decided on the homemade Italian (ricotta) cheesecake.  It was creamy and tasty without being overly sweet—a good choice.

Marco Polo has aged gracefully over a quarter-century.  The dining room, decorated with iconic murals of Italy, maintains an old-world elegance without seeming pretentious.  Host Joseph Chirico and his staff are attentive and professional, and executive chef Bruno Milone seldom disappoints.  Congratulations, Marco Polo.

 

Marco Polo Ristorante

345 Court Street (SE corner Union St), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 852-5015

http://marcopoloristorante.com/

By train: to Carroll Street
By bus: B71, B75

 

Carrying Coals to Morris Park

As a child, I took for granted that pizza was baked in an oven.  Since then, however, pizza preparation has become far more varied.  On a recent visit with my family in the Bronx, I had occasion to try a grilled pie at Coals, near the Albert Einstein College of Medicine in Morris Park.

Grilled pizza made its American debut in 1980 at Al Forno Restaurant in Providence, Rhode Island.  It's crisp, wafer-thin, with clearly visible grill marks, and bears a distinct, smoky-grilled flavor.  It's lighter than most pizzas I've tried.

Coals offers several varieties including the requisite Margherita, the Rustic, the Pure Bliss, and even a vegan pizza.  (Please click here for a menu.)   I tried the Dean Martin (small $7.50; large $14), an exquisitely delicate pie made with fontinella, fresh mozzarella, tomato, pepperoni, and pecorino.  (Two can share a large pie comfortably.)

In addition to pizza, Coals offers fine salads, a daily soup, panini, and burgers.  The sandwiches bear such interesting names as the Barbarino, Wacky Jackie, Fonzarelli, and Ben Cohen.  Some day I'd like to try the Muffuletta.

Unfortunately, I hadn't saved room for dessert, for I know what I'd have chosen:  a slice of the Bronx's own S&S Cheesecake with warm butterscotch.  Perhaps I should visit my family in Morris Park more often.

 

Coals

1888 Eastchester Road (near Morris Park Av), Morris Park, Bronx

(718) 823-7002

http://coalspizza.com/

By bus:  Bx21, Bx31
From Manhattan:  BxM10