Comestiblog

A Margarita for Cinco de Mayo

One needn't wait till Cinco de Mayo to enjoy a Margarita—any warm day would be just fine.  Contrary to popular belief, the Fifth of May is not Mexico's Independence Day.  Rather, it is a somewhat minor, regional holiday—observed mainly in the state of Puebla—commemorating the Mexican army's improbable victory over superior French forces in the 1862 Battle of Puebla.  Curiously, the holiday is celebrated chiefly north of the border.  (Mexico's actual Independence Day falls on 16 September:  dieciséis de septiembre).

Enough about history—how does one make a great Margarita?  To begin, it's best to avoid mixes.  While they may taste insidiously good, they contain ingredients that sound as though they'd be best avoided.  For example, Jose Cuervo's Margarita Mix—admittedly one of the tastiest of the genre—contains "water, high fructose corn syrup and/or sugar, citric acid, natural flavors, sodium citrate, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate (to preserve flavor), cellulose gum, polysorbate 60, gum Arabic, glycerol Abietate, and FD&C Yellow No. 5."

Instead of mixing with all those chemicals, why not simplify the drink to include just three components?  The best Margaritas are made with tequila, triple sec, and fresh lime juice.  Using premium ingredients may cost a little more, but the results are worth every penny.  Begin with a superior tequila—never settle for anything made with less than 100% blue agave (Mexican law mandates at least 51% agave; no such minimum exists for domestic "tequilas").  Cointreau, a liqueur from Angers (pronounced ahn·ZHAY), France—produced from curaçao oranges—ranks as the crème de la crème of triple sec.  Its orange peel flavor is an essential part of a great Margarita.  Not to be overlooked is the fruit juice: fresh squeezed limes are a must.  Again, a mix tastes all right; fresh lime juice, however, tastes far better.

While optional, the final ingredient is Kosher salt.  Use it to salt the rim of the glass, if you so desire.  Now that we have all the ingredients, is there anything else we need?  Yes!  Never underestimate the importance of proper glassware.  Genuine Margarita glasses add that little extra appeal to the drink.  Avoid water goblets or anything of that ilk.

Ready to mix?  Here, then, is my recipe for the perfect Margarita:

The ideal tequila-to-Cointreau ratio is 4:π (or roughly 4:3.1416).

In terms of measure for one drink:

• 2 ounces 100% blue agave tequila
• 1½ ounces (+ a drop or 2) Cointreau
• Juice of 1 to 1½ limes

Your interpretation of perfection may vary, however.  It's easy to adjust the ingredients to your taste.

Shake well, serve with a slice of lime, and enjoy!

Still Loco After All These Years

Many years ago, one of my clients had recommended Burrito Loco for its authentic Mexican fare.  I've dined there regularly ever since.  The food is still good, but after 25 years, Jimmy Sanz's "crazy donkey" is becoming tired.

A large part of the Burrito Loco's allure has always been its fiesta-like atmosphere.  This place was a lot of fun and provided a great escape.  My most recent visit, however, left me with the impression that the party is winding down.  The dining room's happy hour and its happy followers have apparently gone south.  I was disappointed that several of the drink menu's fruit-flavored margaritas I'd come to enjoy were unavailable.

Burrito Loco's cocina, mirabile dictu, hasn't suffered.  The guacamole (prepared tableside, $11), chips, and salsa are as fresh and lively as ever.  On this occasion, we ordered two varieties of fajita.  Our plates arrived with their sizzling contents of chicken and salmon ($14 and $17, respectively), sautéed with onions, tomatoes, and bell peppers, accompanied by rice, beans, guacamole, sour cream, and flour tortillas.  Muy sabrosa.

The mood this time didn't seem quite right for us to order their spirituous coffees ($6.75).  Without the dining room's customary festiveness, the spectacular presentations of the Café Burrito Loco or the Café Diablo—replete with dimmed house lights as the coffee drink is set aflame—would have been wasted.

Though I still enjoy the authentic Mexican food, I hope Burrito Loco can recapture some of its erstwhile conviviality and bring back the fun.

 

 

Burrito Loco

166 West 4^th Street (bet. Jones & Cornelia Sts), West Village, Manhattan

(212) 675-1977

http://www.burritoloco.com/

By train: A,C,E,B,D,F,V to W 4^th Street
By bus: M5,M6 (uptown)

Lowly Mole

My travels often take me up the Merritt Parkway, through Connecticut.  For various reasons, High Ridge Road (Exit 35) in Stamford is a convenient stopover for me.  Olé Molé, a little Mexican place not far from the off-ramp, had been on my radar for some time.  I recently succumbed to my curiosity and gave it a try.

Perhaps I've become a bit jaded by the good Mexican food in New York and the yet better stuff in California.  Or maybe Olé Molé just isn't all that good.  My Comestaccomplice and I tried a couple of dishes that weren't bad, but lacked the allure of a repeat visit.  The relatively high prices further decreased the likelihood of our return.

The flavorless salsa that accompanied the chips seemed to portend what was to come.  The Enchiladas Suizas (red corn tortillas with chicken, vegetables, and cheese, served with salsa verde and mole negro) at $12.95 were bland, but slightly better than the tough, uninspired Pollo Juarez (grilled marinated chicken breast, served with a mole verde) for $13.95.  All platillos come with rice, beans, and flour tortillas.  There's an additional charge of 50¢ for extra ingredients (i.e., rice, beans, lettuce, onion, tortillas, jalapeño, cheese, sour cream, small salsas).

The lack of flavor is surprising, given the high quality of the ingredients, which are obviously fresh, and the individual preparation of each dish made therefrom.

Though slow, the service was pleasant and courteous.  Our requests for salsa replenishments were all accommodated cheerfully.  Unfortunately, the ambiance of the limited dining area has all the appeal of a fast-food establishment.  The outdoor (parking lot) seating holds similar appeal.  Overall, this little place is not all that bad, but doesn't truly Merritt another visit.

Olé Molé

1030 High Ridge Road (near Olga Dr)
Stamford, CT   06905-1605   (map)

(203) 461-9962

http://olemole.net/

By bus: 31