Comestiblog

Victor's Café is Golden

When I told an old West Sider that I'd been invited to Victor's Café, he recalled fondly his numerous dining experiences at the eatery's original site, adding, "it was the first place to serve Cuban food in New York."  This year, in its third generation of family ownership, the city's oldest Cuban restaurant celebrates its golden anniversary in the space it has occupied in Manhattan's Theater District since 1980.

The story begins in 1957, the year Victor del Corral and his family left Cuba for New York.  After six years of holding odd jobs around the city, Mr. del Corral, with the help of his wife, Eloína Ruíz de Ugarrio, finally realized his dream of introducing New Yorkers to Cuban cooking.  In 1963, Victor opened his eponymous café at 240 Columbus Avenue (at 71^st Street), whereupon, it became one of Gotham's most celebrated dining spots.  As the years progressed, additional generations of the family entered the scene.

In 1972, Sonia Zaldivar joined her father's culinary team to initiate "the evolution of Cuban cuisine."  Embracing the Nuevo Latino trend, she revised many of the patriarch's recipes, making them lighter and more healthful.  Her introduction of olive oil and pan searing, for example, added a moderno flair to Victor's traditional fare, and helped to lighten the perception of heavy Cuban food.

Sonia continues to play an active role in the operation of the restaurant, albeit "via satellite" from Miami.  Her daughter Monica is now at the helm, adding her charm and effervescence to the family's longstanding tradition of hospitality.  Keeping apace with the times, Victor's is not your grandfather's Cuban café—unless, of course, you happen to be Monica Zaldivar.  The ambiance is contemporary and sophisticated—a festive, yet elegant setting that would seem to befit a modern-day Bogie and Bacall.

We entered the restaurant to the stress-melting strains of Cuban music (performed by a trio in the Cuba Lounge), and were seated in the Skylight Room, a relaxing space with the insouciant feel of a patio.  Its palm trees, colorful art along the wall, oscillating ceiling fans, and large windows to the sky transported us into a tropical world far from New York.

Our captain, Armando, a 13-year veteran of Victor's Café, navigated us ably through our culinary tour of Cuba.  He and his team pampered us with exemplary service that was informative, ingratiating, and most of all, attentive without being intrusive.

Victor's Signature Mojito

We started with a couple of drinks to put us into the proper spirit, so to speak.  Because Victor's Signature Mojito headed the list of cocktails, I had to give it a try.  The combination of Atlantico Rum, fresh lime, mint leaves, and simple syrup yielded a potent and delicious apéritif.  A swizzle stick of fresh sugar cane created a stir of sweetness.  My Comestaccomplice's sangría—a blend of red wine, triple sec, brandy, gin, fresh squeezed juice, and oranges—included a Cuban twist:  guava!  This unusual ingredient added a delightful balance to the sangría's citrus flavors.  While the libations were a bit sweeter than comparable ones elsewhere, the sugar in both drinks tasted very pure, clean, and smooth.

Mariquitas de Plátano with Salsa

Our appetizers began with Mariquitas de Plátano, addictive homemade green plantain chips, accompanied by a salsa of tomatoes, red peppers, and a habanero or two for mo' heato.  The piquancy of the red sauce provided a savory offset to the deep-fried sweetness of the mariquitas.  Ah, but this was just the beginning.

Starters—Clockwise (from top): Chorizo Español, Croqueta Corral, Papa Rellena, Bartolito

Along with the mariquitas, the 50^th anniversary prix fixe Taste of Cuba menu comprises four appetizers.  Yes, four!  Bartolito is one of the most popular.  It's a sweet-plantain tower, filled with roast Berkshire pork, olives, and raisins, served over a  zesty black bean sauce, and topped with goat cheese (of which I'd have enjoyed an additional crumble).  My first bite convinced me of its superiority.

Bartolito

Victor's Papas Rellenas are a Cuban variant of a traditional Peruvian dish.  The stuffed potato balls are made by encasing seasoned ground prime sirloin in deep-fried mashed potatoes.

Papa Rellena

Our aperitivo tour continued with the oblong Croqueta Corral con Salsa Lulú.  The soft, flavorful smoked ham croquette was served atop Lulú's savory sauce of roasted tomatoes and Cachucha peppers.

Croqueta Corral con Salsa Lulú

The final item on our sampler plates was the Chorizo Español, a Spanish sausage made from chopped pork and pork fat, spiced with smoked pimentón (paprika) to add both flavor and color.  (Its taste is vaguely similar to that of pepperoni.)  The chorizo is sautéed in olive oil with onions, red peppers, and olives to make this delectable tapa a bit less sinful.

Chorizo Español

We weren't finished with our starters, however.  The next appetizing installment was Ceviche de Pargo, a superbly executed dish of chopped fresh Florida red snapper, marinated with lime juice, onions, and garlic, served over mango and avocado, and topped with shoestring sweet potato fries.  This harmonious combination of contrasting flavors and textures—salty, savory, citrusy, sweet, soft, and crunchy—was exquisito.  It was abundantly clear as to why this is one of Victor's most popular starters.  The Ceviche de Pargo was, as Armando aptly described it, perfect.

Ceviche de Pargo

Taquitos con Lechón

But wait, there was yet one more starter:  Taquitos con Lechón, a Cuban variant of Mexican tacos.  This dish added an element of fun because it required assembly and could be eaten with one's hands.  Armando deftly wrapped the soft yuca (cassava) tortillas around a pork hash that had been sautéed in olive oil with peppers, tomatoes, onions, and raisins.  We both enjoyed the tortilla's subtle flavor, along with its light chewiness and silkiness.  The filling was very flavorful, and the salsa complemented it well.  It would be interesting to try these tortillas with a variety of different fillings.

After a second mojito, it was time for our entrées.  The Taste of Cuba menu includes a triadic sampling of Victor's signature mains.

Mains—Clockwise (from top): Lechón Asado, Camarones Enchilados, Ropa Vieja, Yuca & Sweet Plantains

My fork was drawn initially to the house specialty, Ropa Vieja (literally, "old clothes").  This popular Cuban mainstay features shredded Black Angus skirt steak simmered in garlic, peppers, tomatoes, and onions.  Seated on a bed of mashed plantains in a diminutive, tuliplike basket of plantain slices, the presentation could not have been more appealing.  The meat was perfectly moist, with a rich underpinning of red peppers.

Ropa Vieja in a Mini Plantain Basket atop Mashed Plantains

While I greatly enjoyed the foregoing dish, my favorite was the Lechón Asado al Estilo de Puerto Boniato.  The hand-carved roast suckling pig, marinated in sour orange, olive oil, garlic, and herbs was flavorful, tender, and succulent.  A delicious piece of crispy skin added an exquisite crowning touch.  I'd gladly order this dish again.

Lechón Asado al Estilo de Puerto Boniato

My Comestaccomplice, on the other hand, raved about the Camarones Enchilados.  While the large shrimp were above average, the zesty creole sauce of tomatoes, garlic, onions, peppers, thyme, and white wine was a standout.  Its rich, savory flavors were seamless; nothing was out of place.  This was by far her favorite among the entrée samples.

Camarones Enchilados

Yuca con Mojo was one of the accompaniments to the trio of mains.  Tangy onions and garlic in olive oil gave the highly starchy chunks of boiled cassava their mojo.  And what Cuban meal would be complete without Plátanos Maduros Fritos (fried sweet plantains), black beans, and rice?

Yuca con Mojo (left) and Plátanos Maduros Fritos (right)

We sipped on another round of mojitos before dessert.  While my Mojito Passion, made with Don Q rum and passion fruit, was sweeter than the previous quaffs, it afforded my palate an impassioned transition to the course ahead.  Equally sweet was my companion's refreshing Mojito de Sandía, mixed with Bacardi Grand Melón and fresh watermelon.

Mojito de Sandía (foreground) and Mojito Passion (background)

The Taste of Cuba Dessert Trio included one of the finest examples of its kind anywhere:  an outstanding flan.  Its subtle, minimally sweetened flavors of egg and vanilla, together with a rich, creamy texture, made Victor's Flan de Huevo ethereal.  This Cuban-style egg custard literally melted in our mouths.  It's difficult to describe just how good it was.  Also included was the Guayabitas de María, a warm guava cobbler with a buttercrumb topping, capped by an eggshell-shaped scoop of Tahitian vanilla ice cream.  Freshly baked and well prepared, this sweet dessert is Victor's most popular.  An exceptional rice pudding, or Arroz con Leche (literally, "rice with milk") rounded out the trio.  With strong influences of cinnamon, it had an interesting flavor we were unable to identify at first.  Finally, Armando identified it as a touch of anisette.  Although neither of us is particularly fond of anise, its subtle inclusion really did enhance this dish.

Dessert Trio—Left to Right: Arroz con Leche, Flan de Huevo, Guayabitas de María

We ended the sweet course with Churros con Tres Salsas, Cuban-style "doughnuts," sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, accompanied by chocolate, dulce de leche, and condensed milk sauces.  Having a crispy exterior and a soft, moist interior, the churros were tasty with or without the sauces—and splendid with coffee.  They afforded a delightful conclusion to our sumptuous culinary voyage to Cuba.

Churros Con Tres Salsas

Just as Victor had pioneered fine Cuban dining in New York 50 years ago, his daughter and granddaughter are blazing the trail toward brighter and lighter Cuban cooking today.  It's a golden legacy of which Mr. del Corral would rightly be very proud.

Victor's Café

236 West 52^nd Street
(between Broadway & Eighth Av)
Theater District, Manhattan  (map)

(212) 586-7714

https://www.victorscafe.com/
https://www.facebook.com/victorscafe
https://twitter.com/VictorsCafe

By train:  to 7 Av; to 50 St
By bus:  M20, M50, M104

 

High and Dry at Giando on the Water

It's hard to imagine a more spectacular space in which to dine than the one at Brooklyn's Giando on the Water.  Situated at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge, this old-line Italian-American restaurant takes full advantage of its location along the East River.  Its soaring ceilings, glass walls, and sparkling opulence provide an ideal setting for watching the sun descend through the screen of the Manhattan skyline.  Bundle the foregoing elements with easy access and ample parking, and Giando would seem to be the quintessential special-occasion venue—for a wedding party, family reunion, or other catered affair.  The very best reason to visit, however, is to lose yourself in the eyes of your date, when distractions such as food and wine are unnecessary, or even unwelcome.  Go for the romance, because you're certainly not going there for the food.

The meals aren't bad, they're simply banal.  Perhaps this point was emphasized by the sharp contrast between the extraordinary surroundings and the extremely ordinary comestibles.  But the upshot is that the food is unmemorable, in the most literal way.  What was the sauce on my salmon?  Something a little buttery?  Did my Comestaccomplice have the Chicken Piccata, or was it Francese?  I had to rely solely on my dining notes for all my recollections.

Insalata Capricciosa

For the record, I ordered the Broiled Salmon Dijon (listed on the menu as "De Jon").  Hints of mustard enhanced the fish slightly, but the flavorless broccoli and forgettable potatoes made this seem like a dish that could have been served at Olive Garden.  My Comestaccomplice's Chicken al Limone was of the same caliber: a little lemony and a lot ordinary.  The Insalata Capricciosa, er, salad, wasn't quite up to the aforementioned Olive Garden's standards.  (And it didn't even come with breadsticks!)  For dessert, the so-called Homemade Chocolate Cake seemed industrial.

Broiled Salmon Dijon

The wine list had its own problems.  It's wildly overpriced, with offerings that do battle with the many lighter and more subtle menu offerings.  We'd finally found one bottle that would complement our dishes, but apparently so had everyone else: it was sold out.  We couldn't find a single other bottle that would suit our main courses.  This may have been the only moderate-to-fine-dining meal at which my dining partner and I had forgone some sort of alcoholic beverage.  Even if it's a glass of wine, a beer, or a mixed drink, we invariably enjoy some type of libation at dinner.  We tried hard, honestly we did, but it simply couldn't happen in light of Giando's offerings.

Chicken al Limone

At least we had the beautiful setting and well-trained waitstaff at our disposal … well, sort of.  Once it became clear that there was to be no wine served to us, we were all but abandoned in favor of the two or three other tables occupied that evening.  (The staff-to-customer ratio was close to par.)  Since the 20% service charge is obligatory, why bother making any effort to earn it?

Homemade Chocolate Cake

There was little benefit to visiting here for the Dine In Brooklyn promotion.  As it turns out, Giando on the Water offers three-course Prima sera specials all year (Monday through Friday) for $25.95.  For the two of us, the restaurant-week savings amounted to less than two dollars.  Perhaps I shouldn't be too critical, however.  Three courses and a magnificent view for $25 isn't all that bad.

Giando on the Water

400 Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn   (map)

(718) 387-7000

http://www.giandoonthewater.com/

By train:  to Marcy Av
By bus:  Q59

Canaille Expect Better?

One benefit of the Dine In Brooklyn promotion is its annual roll call of restaurants that have escaped my attention.  Canaille, on the fringes of Park Slope, is an example of such a place.  Though it's been around since October of 2007, I'd not heard of this Fifth Avenue French bistro previously.  Its website, however, seemed rather appealing and gave all indications of being a safe $25 bet.

Some of Brooklyn's most popular eateries are fully booked before restaurant week even begins.  Since Canaille (pronounced kuh·NYE) opens at 6:00 P.M. and does not accept reservations, I arrived early to avoid disappointment.  Though my fears of competing for a table were unfounded, there was ample disappointment nonetheless.

For the better part of an hour, my Comestaccomplice and I had the entire bistro to ourselves.  Although the (effectively) private dining room was pleasant, it signaled a problem.  From what I could tell, the lack of customers was not due to the cooking or the décor.  Rather, it seemed to all boil down to a single component: co-owner Philippe de Crespi, a native Parisian whose contemptuous arrogance is exceeded only by his bad attitude.  His demeanor suggested annoyance with our presence.  He appeared to be suspicious, nay, disdainful, of anyone temerarious enough to enter his establishment.  Even the name Canaille (a pejorative term that refers to the riffraff or the unwashed masses) affords an insight into his regard for his clientele (or lack thereof).  The friendliness of co-owner Marie MacLean, on the other hand, provided a warm antidote to her partner's disagreeable behavior.  Her pleasant, nearly apologetic tone was not enough to overcome Monsieur de Crespi's insuperable imperiousness, however.

Aside from the aforementioned situation, there seems to be no reason for this business to be foundering.  What de Crespi lacks in personality, he can almost offset with his cooking.  With part-time assistance from Lyonnais Chef Christophe over the past year, the kitchen is in competent hands.  Our meals were really quite tasty.

Philippe's background as a sommelier and his predilection for French wines are evident in Canaille's well-chosen, albeit overpriced, wine list.  Except for the Domaine Saint-Vincent Brut NV (from New Mexico), every wine comes from France.  Our choice of the crisp 2008 Jean Rosen Pinot Blanc from Alsace turned out to be a fine match for the courses to come.

Tapénade hors d'œuvre

Comprising two starters, three main courses, and two desserts, the Dine In Brooklyn menu was somewhat spare, and not all that representative of the bistro's regular carte.  We began with complimentary southern French hors d'œuvre of garlicky tapénade and toast.  Before we even had the chance to amuse our gueules, however, de Crespi asked us whether we were going to eat it.  Franchement!  Happily, we saw more of Marie than of Philippe the rest of the evening.

Citrus Salad

Carrot Cumin Soup

Having tried both available offerings, we felt that our starters lived up to expectations.  Though my companion's Citrus Salad (mixed greens with orange and grapefruit segments, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar) was fresh and appetizing, it was not much more than a good salad.  My Carrot Cumin Soup was a better choice.  Velvety, and tasting exactly as advertised, it's a dish I'd order again.  Both starters were prepared well using ingredients appropriate to the season.

Tarragon Chicken Linguine

Our mains were somewhat mixed.  While my Comestaccomplice's Tarragon Chicken Linguine (tarragon-braised fowl, pasta, and julienned carrots and zucchini) was satisfying, it was predictably ordinaire.  (Perhaps she'd have fared better with the third option of Moules Frites.)  My main course, on the other hand, was superb.  Served atop a split pea purée, the Pork Butt Confit was mouthwateringly flavorful, succulent, and tender.  The leguminous accompaniment to the pork's subtle seasoning was a succès éclatant.

Pork Butt Confit

For dessert, we were given the choice between banal and dull.  Both of us rejected the Milk Chocolate Roll in favor of the Crème Caramel.  The custard was just as we expected it to be—nothing more, nothing less.

Crème Caramel

To his credit, Philippe de Crespi turns out respectable comestibles.  While I consider some of his dishes worthy of another visit, his demeanor is simply too deterring to warrant a return.  Until he recognizes the extent to which his personality is militating against his success, it's improbable his bistro will thrive.  How can any business prosper if it treats its customers like canaille?

Canaille Bistro Français

78 Fifth Avenue (between St Marks & Prospect Pls), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 789-8899

http://www.canaillebistro.com/

By train:   to Bergen Street
By bus:  B63

 

Keeping Apace with the Tempo of Park Slope

Gastronomically speaking, there wasn't much to recommend this part of Park Slope less than a decade ago.  Pioneers like Cucina, Al di Là, and the erstwhile Vaux changed all that, however, and paved the way for what has become a restaurant row on Fifth Avenue.  After a 16-year run, Cucina's closing in 2004 left many regulars bereft.  Its reincarnation as Tempo that same year assuaged the grief, however.

Chef Michael Fiore made the transition from Cucina and infused his Italian-inspired dishes with other flavors from the Mediterranean, including those of France, Spain, and Morocco.  Add to that his unmistakably American accent, and voilà—Tempo!

The three-course, prix fixe menu ($32, Sunday through Thursday; $42, Friday and Saturday) offers a wide range of dishes to savor.  For my first course, I chose one of Tempo's signature dishes: Duck Pastilla Rolls (duck and almonds, sweetened with a Moroccan barbeque glaze, in a crisp feuille du bric wrapper).  The sweetness of the glaze was reminiscent of a Hoisin sauce and gave the dish a vaguely Asian flavor.  It was rather tasty, though I tend to prefer duck preparations to be more savory.

The bread and bean dip added a nice touch.

My main course was an Atlantic salmon atop a chickpea falafel on a bed of charred eggplant purée with sesame tahini.  The covering of radish and watercress salad added the necessary greenery.  The fish was tender and moist and seemed to blend well with its plate partners.  Since I dine on salmon often, this unusual preparation was a welcome change.

I should point out that Tempo offers a good selection of wines.  However, the cocktails are so refreshing that I drank them instead of wine with my meal.  The passion fruit Bellini made a delicious apéritif and was a nice variation of the popular drink made with white peach nectar.  The Pomegranate Margarita (made with PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur) proved to be a nice twist on the classic lime version.  With tasty libations like that, I didn’t really miss my wine that evening.

Selecting a dessert is, perhaps, the most difficult part of the meal.  Each one seems as tempting as the next.  Who can resist the New Orleans-style beignets with Café du Monde gelato or the passion fruit crème brûlée?  There are also artisanal cheeses available for an additional charge.  I finally decided upon the warm molten chocolate cake with caramel pecan crunch gelato.  Yum!

Tempo brings a sort of informal stylishness that was once a scarcity in this part of Brooklyn.  The décor of the dining room and wine bar is chic, yet casual.  In addition, the waitstaff is courteous, relaxed, and knowledgeable.  Above all, however, one is made to feel comfortable.  Keep up the Tempo!

  

Tempo

256 Fifth Avenue (bet. Carroll St & Garfield Pl), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 636-2020

http://www.tempobrooklyn.com/

By train: M,R to Union Street
By bus: B63

Marco Polo Turns 25

Last Tuesday marked the silver anniversary of Marco Polo Ristorante.  To celebrate, the famed Italian eatery is offering a three-course, prix fixe menu: $19.83 for lunch and $25 for dinner (to commemorate their inaugural year and their years in business, respectively).  The special menu is available for 25 days, from 5 June till the end of the month.

Seven starters are offered, including a soup-of-the-day, a salad, or one of the old favorites such as Carciofo alla Contadina (artichoke stuffed with breadcrumbs and cheese) and Calamari con Cannellini e Grano (squid served with cannellini beans and grain).

I chose the Mozzarella con Pomodoro e Basilico (homemade mozzarella with sliced tomato, basil, and extra virgin olive oil).  I probably should have ordered something else.  The fresh mozzarella was a bit dry and rubbery, and the tomatoes were, alas, commensurate with the season.  By contrast, I'd tried the stuffed artichoke on a previous visit and consider it to be a better choice.

There are a dozen secondi from which to select, including many traditional dishes like Pollo Scarpariello (chicken sautéed with garlic, white wine, rosemary, and lemon) and Vitello Piccata (veal scaloppini topped with artichokes in a white wine sauce), as well as fish, seafood, and vegetable dishes.

Happily, my second course made up for the disappointing appetizer.  I ordered the Salmone Tornado Alla Mostarda (salmon over spinach in a mustard sauce) but my waiter returned moments later to inform me that the salmon was no longer available.  The chef kindly offered to prepare a sole in a similar fashion.  It turned out to be an excellent substitution.  The sole was moist, flaky, and delicious.  The mashed potatoes were tasty, but oh, so rich.  A glass of pinot grigio made a fine accompaniment.

Sole over spinach with mashed potatoes and a glass of pinot grigio

Even though I dined relatively early, only two of the three listed desserts were available.  The Charlotte di Venezia (sponge cake filled with torrone gelato topped with hot chocolate sauce) sounded rather tempting, but I decided on the homemade Italian (ricotta) cheesecake.  It was creamy and tasty without being overly sweet—a good choice.

Marco Polo has aged gracefully over a quarter-century.  The dining room, decorated with iconic murals of Italy, maintains an old-world elegance without seeming pretentious.  Host Joseph Chirico and his staff are attentive and professional, and executive chef Bruno Milone seldom disappoints.  Congratulations, Marco Polo.

 

Marco Polo Ristorante

345 Court Street (SE corner Union St), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 852-5015

http://marcopoloristorante.com/

By train: to Carroll Street
By bus: B71, B75

 

Water that Rose to the Occasion

My first visit to Rose Water came several years ago, shortly after it opened.  Union Street had been torn up, and thus encumbered both vehicular and pedestrian traffic.  Dust, noise, and other unpleasant side effects of construction seemed to foster an inauspicious start.  Nevertheless, this Park Slope "Seasonal American" eatery overcame the early obstacles and went on to flourish.  I went back recently during Dine In Brooklyn week.

Although chicken is not usually my first choice when I dine out, it's my favorite dish here.  The roasted bird is one of the most popular items on the menu with good reason.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The Dine In Brooklyn menu consisted of three courses for $23.  There was also an option to pair each course with a small glass of wine for an additional $14.  Though I usually rely on my instincts, it's not bad to pull my head out of the sand occasionally to try wine pairings I'd not have chosen myself.

I began my meal with a delicious, creamy cauliflower soup.  Nicely seasoned, though perhaps a bit too subtly, this rich potage seemed worthy of the calories.  A South Fork Chardonnay accompanied this course.  Perhaps I'm not quite ready for ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) club membership yet, since the pairing wasn't all that bad in my opinion.

A restaurant always receives extra credit for good bread, and more points yet for serving it with olive oil, as they do here.  The bread is rather good, with a firm, spongy texture.  The oil is also well-chosen.  Had the bread been a bit crustier, however, it could have received a few more Brownie points.

On to the main course.  Did I mention that I like Rose Water's roasted chicken?  It's tender and succulent.  Unaggressive seasoning allows the bird's natural flavors to come forward.

The food-friendly Dolcetto d'Alba was a well-chosen accompaniment to this dish.  Should you be unfamiliar with this wine, don't allow the name Dolcetto to suggest sweetness.  In fact, it's rather light and dry, having low acidity but some pronounced tannins.  I've always found its pairing with roasted chicken to be harmonious.

For dessert, I chose the caramelized brioche.  It was just a bit too sweet for my taste, but then, my threshold for sugary confection is lower than most people's.  A misnamed "PX Sherry" was paired with the final course.  If you're fond of sherries, you’ll recall that PX (Pedro Ximénez) is often used to sweeten dry ones.  By itself, however, it's dark brown, syrupy, and very sweet.  What I was served looked more like a White Zinfandel (fortunately the similarity ended there) and tasted like a sweetened sherry.  It's not something I'd have chosen—a real PX or Cream sherry would have been better—but it was interesting all the same.  But please don't call it PX.

Beyond Dine In Brooklyn week, Rose Water offers several prix fixe options: a three-course market menu Monday through Thursday for $28; a five-course Chef's tasting menu daily for $54; and a weekend brunch for $12.50.

Rose Water

787 Union Street (near 6^th Avenue), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 783-3800

http://rosewaterrestaurant.com/

By train:  to Union Street
By bus: B71 to 6^th Avenue

 

Getting Your Fixe

The recently concluded Dine In Brooklyn event reminded me just how much I enjoy "Restaurant Weeks."  Fortunately, by featuring affordable prix fixe menus, eateries can extend the idea year-round.  This allows restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a bargain price (though sometimes, alas, to unload food they’ve ordered too much of).  A little comparison and quick arithmetic involving the regular menu tend to bear this out.  Even if fixed-price menus include dishes not listed à la carte, they typically represent a good value.  Portions may be smaller than those ordered individually, but that only strengthens the case for having dessert.

Many restaurants cloak their prix fixe offerings as "pre-theatre" for those who require (or who don't mind) an early supper.  To me, dining out is to be enjoyed without a concern for time and should not be rushed before an evening performance.  I typically order pre-theatre specials in name only—that is, on nights I do not attend the theatre.  (On the occasion of an actual show, when time is short, I do tend to order à la carte—from Gray's Papaya.)

Upcoming posts will highlight some of my recent prix fixe adventures.

There’s not a problem that I can’t fixe, ‘cause I can do it in the prix.