Comestiblog

High and Dry at Giando on the Water

It's hard to imagine a more spectacular space in which to dine than the one at Brooklyn's Giando on the Water.  Situated at the base of the Williamsburg Bridge, this old-line Italian-American restaurant takes full advantage of its location along the East River.  Its soaring ceilings, glass walls, and sparkling opulence provide an ideal setting for watching the sun descend through the screen of the Manhattan skyline.  Bundle the foregoing elements with easy access and ample parking, and Giando would seem to be the quintessential special-occasion venue—for a wedding party, family reunion, or other catered affair.  The very best reason to visit, however, is to lose yourself in the eyes of your date, when distractions such as food and wine are unnecessary, or even unwelcome.  Go for the romance, because you're certainly not going there for the food.

The meals aren't bad, they're simply banal.  Perhaps this point was emphasized by the sharp contrast between the extraordinary surroundings and the extremely ordinary comestibles.  But the upshot is that the food is unmemorable, in the most literal way.  What was the sauce on my salmon?  Something a little buttery?  Did my Comestaccomplice have the Chicken Piccata, or was it Francese?  I had to rely solely on my dining notes for all my recollections.

Insalata Capricciosa

For the record, I ordered the Broiled Salmon Dijon (listed on the menu as "De Jon").  Hints of mustard enhanced the fish slightly, but the flavorless broccoli and forgettable potatoes made this seem like a dish that could have been served at Olive Garden.  My Comestaccomplice's Chicken al Limone was of the same caliber: a little lemony and a lot ordinary.  The Insalata Capricciosa, er, salad, wasn't quite up to the aforementioned Olive Garden's standards.  (And it didn't even come with breadsticks!)  For dessert, the so-called Homemade Chocolate Cake seemed industrial.

Broiled Salmon Dijon

The wine list had its own problems.  It's wildly overpriced, with offerings that do battle with the many lighter and more subtle menu offerings.  We'd finally found one bottle that would complement our dishes, but apparently so had everyone else: it was sold out.  We couldn't find a single other bottle that would suit our main courses.  This may have been the only moderate-to-fine-dining meal at which my dining partner and I had forgone some sort of alcoholic beverage.  Even if it's a glass of wine, a beer, or a mixed drink, we invariably enjoy some type of libation at dinner.  We tried hard, honestly we did, but it simply couldn't happen in light of Giando's offerings.

Chicken al Limone

At least we had the beautiful setting and well-trained waitstaff at our disposal … well, sort of.  Once it became clear that there was to be no wine served to us, we were all but abandoned in favor of the two or three other tables occupied that evening.  (The staff-to-customer ratio was close to par.)  Since the 20% service charge is obligatory, why bother making any effort to earn it?

Homemade Chocolate Cake

There was little benefit to visiting here for the Dine In Brooklyn promotion.  As it turns out, Giando on the Water offers three-course Prima sera specials all year (Monday through Friday) for $25.95.  For the two of us, the restaurant-week savings amounted to less than two dollars.  Perhaps I shouldn't be too critical, however.  Three courses and a magnificent view for $25 isn't all that bad.

Giando on the Water

400 Kent Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn   (map)

(718) 387-7000

http://www.giandoonthewater.com/

By train:  to Marcy Av
By bus:  Q59

Canaille Expect Better?

One benefit of the Dine In Brooklyn promotion is its annual roll call of restaurants that have escaped my attention.  Canaille, on the fringes of Park Slope, is an example of such a place.  Though it's been around since October of 2007, I'd not heard of this Fifth Avenue French bistro previously.  Its website, however, seemed rather appealing and gave all indications of being a safe $25 bet.

Some of Brooklyn's most popular eateries are fully booked before restaurant week even begins.  Since Canaille (pronounced kuh·NYE) opens at 6:00 P.M. and does not accept reservations, I arrived early to avoid disappointment.  Though my fears of competing for a table were unfounded, there was ample disappointment nonetheless.

For the better part of an hour, my Comestaccomplice and I had the entire bistro to ourselves.  Although the (effectively) private dining room was pleasant, it signaled a problem.  From what I could tell, the lack of customers was not due to the cooking or the décor.  Rather, it seemed to all boil down to a single component: co-owner Philippe de Crespi, a native Parisian whose contemptuous arrogance is exceeded only by his bad attitude.  His demeanor suggested annoyance with our presence.  He appeared to be suspicious, nay, disdainful, of anyone temerarious enough to enter his establishment.  Even the name Canaille (a pejorative term that refers to the riffraff or the unwashed masses) affords an insight into his regard for his clientele (or lack thereof).  The friendliness of co-owner Marie MacLean, on the other hand, provided a warm antidote to her partner's disagreeable behavior.  Her pleasant, nearly apologetic tone was not enough to overcome Monsieur de Crespi's insuperable imperiousness, however.

Aside from the aforementioned situation, there seems to be no reason for this business to be foundering.  What de Crespi lacks in personality, he can almost offset with his cooking.  With part-time assistance from Lyonnais Chef Christophe over the past year, the kitchen is in competent hands.  Our meals were really quite tasty.

Philippe's background as a sommelier and his predilection for French wines are evident in Canaille's well-chosen, albeit overpriced, wine list.  Except for the Domaine Saint-Vincent Brut NV (from New Mexico), every wine comes from France.  Our choice of the crisp 2008 Jean Rosen Pinot Blanc from Alsace turned out to be a fine match for the courses to come.

Tapénade hors d'œuvre

Comprising two starters, three main courses, and two desserts, the Dine In Brooklyn menu was somewhat spare, and not all that representative of the bistro's regular carte.  We began with complimentary southern French hors d'œuvre of garlicky tapénade and toast.  Before we even had the chance to amuse our gueules, however, de Crespi asked us whether we were going to eat it.  Franchement!  Happily, we saw more of Marie than of Philippe the rest of the evening.

Citrus Salad

Carrot Cumin Soup

Having tried both available offerings, we felt that our starters lived up to expectations.  Though my companion's Citrus Salad (mixed greens with orange and grapefruit segments, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar) was fresh and appetizing, it was not much more than a good salad.  My Carrot Cumin Soup was a better choice.  Velvety, and tasting exactly as advertised, it's a dish I'd order again.  Both starters were prepared well using ingredients appropriate to the season.

Tarragon Chicken Linguine

Our mains were somewhat mixed.  While my Comestaccomplice's Tarragon Chicken Linguine (tarragon-braised fowl, pasta, and julienned carrots and zucchini) was satisfying, it was predictably ordinaire.  (Perhaps she'd have fared better with the third option of Moules Frites.)  My main course, on the other hand, was superb.  Served atop a split pea purée, the Pork Butt Confit was mouthwateringly flavorful, succulent, and tender.  The leguminous accompaniment to the pork's subtle seasoning was a succès éclatant.

Pork Butt Confit

For dessert, we were given the choice between banal and dull.  Both of us rejected the Milk Chocolate Roll in favor of the Crème Caramel.  The custard was just as we expected it to be—nothing more, nothing less.

Crème Caramel

To his credit, Philippe de Crespi turns out respectable comestibles.  While I consider some of his dishes worthy of another visit, his demeanor is simply too deterring to warrant a return.  Until he recognizes the extent to which his personality is militating against his success, it's improbable his bistro will thrive.  How can any business prosper if it treats its customers like canaille?

Canaille Bistro Français

78 Fifth Avenue (between St Marks & Prospect Pls), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 789-8899

http://www.canaillebistro.com/

By train:   to Bergen Street
By bus:  B63

 

Dine In Brooklyn 2010

"Foodies, the wait is over!" is Brooklyn Borough President Marty Markowitz's annual call to Dine In Brooklyn.  From 15-25 March 2010, over 200 eateries in the borough of Kings will offer three-course meals for $20.10 at lunch and $25 at dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  You say you want more?  Nearly 40 restaurants will offer two meals at the aforementioned fixed prices.

Last year, I used the occasion of Dine In Brooklyn to try Pomme de Terre, Saint Germain, Pó Brooklyn, and Chez Oskar.  This year?  I'm open to suggestions …

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
209 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

Restaurant Weeks in August 2009

Baltimore Summer Restaurant Week starts today, Fryday, and highlights "a different kind of delicious daily" through Dim Sumday, 16 August.  Over 90 restaurants offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $20.09 for lunch and $30.09 for dinner (excluding beverages, taxes, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.baltimorerestaurantweek.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants and to make reservations.

Up the Eastern seaboard, Restaurant Week Boston® offers a fortnight—Sunday through Friday, 9-14 & 16-21 August—of discounted dining at more than 200 restaurants in the Greater Boston area.  Prix fixe options include two-course lunches for $15.09, three-course lunches for $20.09, and three-course dinners for $33.09 per person (excluding beverages, taxes, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.BostonUSA.com/RestaurantWeek or call (888) 733-2678 for a list of participating restaurants.

Chez Oskar Night

Dine-In Brooklyn was winding down, it was rainy, dark, and becoming late.  Where to eat?  Several unsuccessful attempts to score a last-minute reservation ultimately led to an enthusiastic availability at Chez Oskar in Fort Greene.  I'd passed the French-style bistro on several occasions but never paid it much heed.  But what the heck?  The situation was becoming desperate enough to warrant a $23 gamble.

Chez Oskar is a lively place that seems quite at home in this diverse neighborhood.  It could best be described as a bistro à la Brooklyn—casual, funky, and comfortable.  The service is friendly and the food is good, but I'd restrain any praise beyond that.

Country Pâté

I seldom surrender to cravings involving cholesterol-laden foods, but the Country Pâté sounded the most promising among the five starters on the restaurant-week menu.  Though the presentation was attractive, the taste failed to live up to the promise.  Bland and uninspired, this dish made me rue my dietary transgression.  It's a pity that the comparably priced escargots or the slightly more expensive salmon-and-tuna tartare were not offered.  Perhaps they would have made a better first impression.

Lamb Shank

The five main course offerings—comprising fish, chicken, lamb, beef, and mushroom risotto—were ostensibly well-chosen, appealing to a broad array of tastes.  Owing to the weather, I ordered the Lamb Shank to help defend against the chill that awaited me outside.  The meat, tender enough to fall off the bone, was served with fingerling potatoes, artichokes, sautéed endives, and pomegranate sauce.  The resulting concoction tasted much like a lamb stew.  While not bad, it was unremarkable and rather ordinary.   Statistically speaking, it seemed fitting that, among les plats of my two Comestaccomplices, mine ranked squarely in the middle.

Free Range Chicken

As at Pó Brooklyn, the fowl was a better choice here.  The Free Range Chicken with pancetta-potato gratin, caramelized onions, fava beans, and red wine sauce was rather tasty, albeit unexceptional.  Instead of educing flavor from the chicken, however, the sauce's role was reduced to that of an inoffensive, unassuming accompaniment to the bird.  It was a pleasant dish that would have benefited from a more aggressive sauce.  Perhaps I was foolishly expecting something a bit more akin to a coq au vin.

Lemon and Garlic Crusted Codfish

The Lemon-and-Garlic Crusted Codfish was the weakest of the main courses I sampled.  Served with poached leeks, potato crisp, and whole grain mustard vinaigrette, this offering could be aptly described as an insipid piece of fish with a few embellishments.  Unfortunately, its plate mates were too bland to rescue the foundering cod.

Sweet Apple Crêpes

Desserts were commensurate with the courses that preceded them—lots of promise unfulfilled.  I'm not sure why I had high hopes for the Sweet Apple Crêpes.  They certainly looked good.  The dry, flavorless pancakes with caramelized apples left me as cold as the accompanying cinnamon ice cream, however.  Although the Warm Chocolate Cake with vanilla ice cream was slightly better, it failed to catapult my taste buds into cacao ether.  None of us was tempted by the Mango Crème Caramel.

Warm Chocolate Cake

Unfortunately, none of our dishes seemed to cross the threshold that separates the extraordinary from the ordinary.  Most of the flavors failed to soar and some never even managed to take flight.  Nevertheless, Chez Oskar's following has continued to keep it afloat since 1998.  In terms of the $23 gamble, we probably broke even.  This is a good neighborhood bistro, but scarcely worth a trip on the G train.

Chez Oskar

211 Dekalb Avenue (NE corner Adelphi St),
Fort Greene, Brooklyn  (map)

(718) 852-6250

http://www.chezoskar.com/

By train:  to Clinton-Washington Avs (exit at Clinton Av)
By bus:  B38, B69

 

Restaurant Weeks in July 2009

NYC Restaurant Week™ Summer 2009 starts today and continues through the end of the month.  The "week" actually spans three weeks—12-31 July—and includes over 250 New York City restaurants.  Three courses cost $24.07 for lunch and $35 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://nycgo.com/restaurantweek to view the list of participating restaurants and their menus, and to make reservations.

Update: NYC Restaurant Week™ has been extended through Labor Day.

Up the coast, Providence Restaurant WeekS also starts today and will run through 25 July.  Over 75 restaurants will offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $12.95 for lunch and $29.95 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.providencerestaurantweeks.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants.

Dine Richly at Pó Brooklyn

In 1993, before his celebrity on the Food Network, Mario Batali opened Pó, a small trattoria in Manhattan's West Village.  Despite the founding chef's departure seven years later, the Cornelia Street eatery continued to thrive.  Following the success of the original, Pó Brooklyn was launched in 2007 and has been on my radar ever since.  A friend's recommendation, nay, insistence, compelled me to try the Smith Street edition during Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.

It was rainy and raw the day of my visit.  Mother Nature did little to brighten the dim interior, which my Comestaccomplice called soigné.  Nevertheless, the white table linen lightened the dark and cozy dining room while adding a touch of elegance to the casual setting.  The service was consistent with the ambiance—very accommodating without being intrusive.

The restaurant week menu choices were considerable, comprising four starters, five main courses, and three desserts.  Worthy representatives from the regular menu, including vegetarian options, were selected judiciously.  In general, gustatory ratings for promotional prix-fixe specials range from tolerable to very good.  The cucina of Pó Brooklyn raises the bar, however—my meal was excellent in nearly every respect.  Lacking any hint of mass production, each dish looked and tasted as though Chef Lee McGrath had prepared it especially for me.  This trattoria represents one of the best values I've encountered during Dine-In Brooklyn—not necessarily in quantity, but in quality.  It's hard to imagine a better $23 dinner anywhere.

White Bean Bruschetta

Our meal began with a complimentary (normally $2) White Bean Bruschetta.  The combination of canellini beans, olive oil, herbs and spices (including hot red pepper flakes, the sine qua non of Batali dishes) provided a pleasant deviation from common tomato-based toppings.  Receiving a corresponding recipe card with our snack added an ingratiating touch.  We were off to a propitious start.

Cured Tuna

My Cured Tuna antipasto yielded a bit of a surprise: the blend of tuna, canellini beans, sliced artichokes, and red onion atop a bed of frisée—all amid a chili-mint vinaigrette—gave every indication of being an insalata.  Regardless of its name, however, the successful union of ingredients resulted in an uncomplicated, yet excellent, starter.

Cider Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin

My secondo piatto, unlike my "antipasto," was much as I had envisioned it to be.  The Cider-Brined Grilled Pork Tenderloin with braised cabbage and apple mostarda combined elements in a manner akin to reuniting old chums.  Though well-prepared and beautifully presented, this dish took no risks and demonstrated little desire to stray from anyone's comfort zone.  There's nothing intrinsically wrong with that, because it was tasty.  But in the company of more inspired offerings, the pork tenderloin was bit trite.

Grilled Guinea Hen

I realized I could have chosen a better main course upon sampling my Comestaccomplice's Grilled Guinea Hen.  It was a masterpiece that united simplicity with exquisite flavors.  Grilled and seasoned to a dark perfection, the bird was served atop pumpkin-and-scallion fregula (pearl-shaped pasta) and encircled by a ring of olive oil and saba (Italian grape syrup).  This was the pièce de résistance of the evening—a veritable symphony of flavors.  The succulent hen, with its masterly preparation, provided incentive enough for me to become a regular here.

Dark Chocolate Terrine

Finally, the dolce did not disappoint.  My Dark Chocolate Terrine (amaretti Sorrano, Vin Santo, and  espresso-caramel sauce) tasted every bit as good as it looked and left me with a sort of cacao "high."  It provided a sweet ending to a marvelous meal that didn't make me Po'.  This was a delightful meal, from start to finish.  But then, alas, it was back into the rain for me …

Pó Brooklyn

276 Smith Street (between Degraw & Sackett Sts), Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

(718) 875-1980

http://www.porestaurant.com/

By train:  to Carroll Street (exit at President St)
By bus:  B71, B75

 

Saint Germain: Germanely French in Bay Ridge

When last I dined at this Bay Ridge bistro, it was called Provence en Boîte.  Although owners Jean-Jacques and Leslie Bernat have since packed up and relocated their Provençal "box" to Boerum Hill, this space retained its Gallic flavor when Jerome Vidy reopened it as Saint Germain in August, 2004.  (The name, incidentally, comes from the Left Bank district in Paris around the quartier latin, or Latin quarter—an historic area known for its literary and artistic life.)  I've wanted to try the Third Avenue namesake of Saint-Germain-des-Prés for some time, but have always considered the prices un peu cher.  This spring's Dine-In Brooklyn, however, afforded me an affordable occasion to sample their cuisine.

Being seated at my favorite table brought back memories of this bistro's previous incarnation.  Little has changed in the dining room since my last visit:  guests must still pass the enticing dessert showcase upon entering; the bar still stands along the wall beyond the confections; and the banquette still lines the opposite wall.  Though the cooking has remained French, the service has not.  (I miss the Bernat's lovely niece, a delightful French serveuse.)

The special prix-fixe menu (please see below) comprised four starters, four main courses, and seemingly countless desserts.  It offered a well-chosen selection, mostly from the regular menu.  The unaccustomed generosity of the promotional portions came as quite a pleasant (and satisfying) surprise.

My Kir Royale apéritif set the tone for the first course.  Its rosy effervescence made a delightful partner to the smoked salmon platter.  The sparkling wine, combined with the sweet influences of the cassis, complemented the rich smokiness of the fish as well as the piquancy of the caper garnish.  Generously portioned and served with toast and lettuce, this was a marvelous starter.  Interestingly, the salmon platter does not appear on the regular menu, though it probably should.

Smoked salmon platter with toast and lettuce

I should have ordered wine for my second round.  Instead, I succumbed to the seductive appeal of the Brigitte Bardot cocktail.  The mixture of lemon vodka, triple sec, and sparkling French pink lemonade sounded better than it tasted.  What was I thinking?  (I wonder whether I'll fall victim to Wild Love or a Screaming Orgasm next time.)

Onward to the main course.  Since I had a hankering for meat, I chose the Flank Steak au Poivre with pommes frites.  Popular in French kitchens, this cut comes from a part of the cow that normally receives considerable exercise.  While quite lean, the flank can be somewhat tough and stringy.  Thus, it requires rapid cooking on high heat.  As for my steak, it was slightly tough (predictably), but very flavorful, and cooked almost perfectly.  I say almost because it was not quite so rare as I'd requested—a minor point, overall.  The peppercorn sauce (made with green peppercorns, brandy, and cream) was consistent with my expectations:  not great, but not bad, either.  It could have benefited from additional brandy.  The crisp pommes frites were authentic and very good, indeed.  Why can't all french fries be made from real potatoes?  Again, the ample portion's scale was more American than it was French.

Flank steak au poivre with pommes frites

Though sated after the main course, I still faced the prospect of selecting a dessert from the large display case.  With so many délices from which to choose, I picked the one that seemed to be exhorting me to consume it:  the apricot amandine.  My initial bite, however, revealed the real reason behind the tart's entreaties:  fear of being the last to be chosen.  Apparently, this dessert had been deserted awhile.  I found myself doing battle with the crust—it was far too rigid.  Age may have also played a role in helping the almond paste overpower the retreating flavor forces of the sliced apricots.  I prefer my steaks aged, but not so my desserts.  (Perhaps I should have ordered the Porcupine confection instead.)

Apricot amandine

Among my Dine-In Brooklyn meals so far, this one has represented the best value.  Considering that the regular dinner menu lists steak au poivre at $21.95 and desserts at $6 apiece, the $23 fixed price for my three courses was a bargain.  Overall, my dinner was quite satisfactory despite the disappointing apricot amandine.  While the bistro fare at Saint Germain is unlikely to win awards for creativity, it is fairly reliable and tasty.

Saint Germain

8303 Third Avenue (near 83^rd St), Bay Ridge, Brooklyn

(718) 745-8899

By train:  to 86^th Street
By bus:  B37

Please click on the image above for a larger view of the menu.

 

Pomme de Terre, Not Ordinaire

A few years ago, a good French bistro like Pomme de Terre would have seemed unthinkable in this part of Ditmas Park, Brooklyn.  It still appears somewhat improbable today.  For instance, the nearby Newkirk Avenue BMT station has no fewer than two transit cops present at any given time.  And while undergoing its transformation from seedy grocery to upscale eatery, this space suffered numerous acts of vandalism.  Despite the annoying setbacks, owners Gary Jonas and Allison McDowell (founders of The Farm on Adderley nearby), and Jim Mamary (one of the founders of Patois) persevered and, on 31 March 2008, began serving, in their words, "well-loved food."  Since then, I'd always wanted to give this little bistro a try.  The recent Dine-In Brooklyn week afforded me a fine opportunity.

Dining weeks allow restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a reduced price.  Many restaurateurs use such occasions to put their best food forward.  Unfortunately, that was not the case at Pomme de Terre.  Their Dine-In Brooklyn menu seemed to target regular customers at the expense of newcomers.  Instead of featuring signature dishes, they offered items not found on their regular menu.  Perhaps with good reason.  After all, this little restaurant appears to have established a constant clientèle.  Nevertheless, I'd have preferred something a bit more representative—such as Steak Frites au Poivre—of their typical fare.

Although the bread is ordinaire, Pomme de Terre adds some nice French touches such as homemade butter to accompany it.  My meal began with a garlic soup containing a poached egg and topped with a croûton.  Perhaps I'm a bit too fond of garlic, but it seemed there just wasn't enough of it in the broth.  While this starter was a tasty and pleasant departure from the ordinary, its lack of ail intensity did not yield a favorable comparison with garlic-based concoctions I've enjoyed in Europe.

Garlic Soup

For the main course, chef David Pitula offered two choices: Warm Country Pâté and Chicken Paillard.  I opted for the latter, which was served in a goat cheese-basil vinaigrette, topped with grilled eggplant and squash, and accompanied by Yukon-Rosemary potatoes.  It was good, possibly even very good.  The overly acidic vinaigrette created a slight detraction, but was ameliorated somewhat by the sweetness of the grilled vegetables.  Overall, the flavors melded well.

Chicken Paillard

Had the cellar been commensurate with the wine list, I'd have found it quite acceptable.  I've come to expect a bistro's carte des vins to comprise few, but well-chosen—possibly esoteric—wines.  Unfortunately, it took four tries to find a wine that was actually in stock.  I finally settled on a glass of Vin de Savoie "Abymes," whose $9 price would have bought a bottle at a retail shop.

The dining room's décor is consistent with that of bistros one might find in Manhattan.  To wit, it has a sort of French feel.  Nevertheless, a Gallic bistro experience should transcend French-accented fare and décor.  Alas, the service was decidedly un-French.  My waiter made no efforts toward any sort of authentic pronunciation whatsoever.  (My request for a glass of "van de sahvwah" was met with a "vin da Savoy."  Oh well.)   While competent and not unfriendly by any means, the glib service was not all that ingratiating.  Perhaps I simply expect too much.

Lemongrass Panna Cotta

For dessert, I chose the Lemongrass Panna Cotta with mixed fruit.  While the tropical infusion provided a tangy twist, the consistency of the panna cotta lacked the buoyancy I've come to expect.  Again, at a purportedly French bistro, I'd have preferred the Gallic version of burnt cream: crème brûlée.

Whatever its minor shortcomings, Pomme de Terre is a welcome addition to a neighborhood that has been bereft of superior dining spots far too long.

Pomme de Terre

1301 Newkirk Avenue (NE corner Argyle Rd), Ditmas Park, Booklyn

(718) 284-0005

http://www.pdtny.com/

By train: B,Q to Newkirk Avenue
By bus: B8, B68

Dine-In Brooklyn 2009

"Foodies, the wait is over!" proclaims Marty Markowitz, Brooklyn Borough President.  This weekend, the protracted NYC Restaurant Week™ (begun mid-January) passes the torch to Dine-In Brooklyn 2009.  From 23 March through 2 April, over 200 Brooklyn eateries will offer three-course lunches or dinners for $23 (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  In addition, some 20 restaurants will serve two meals at the aforementioned fixed price.  That's one of the best dining bargains anywhere.

Not sure which restaurants to try?  Pick up a free 2008 Zagat Guide to Brooklyn Restaurants—while supplies last—at the Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center inside Borough Hall.  Last year, I used the occasion of Dine-In Brooklyn to sample Le Petit Marché and to revisit Rose Water.  This year?  I'll keep you posted …

 

Brooklyn Tourism and Visitors Center

Borough Hall
179 Joralemon Street, Ground Floor,
Downtown Brooklyn

(718) 802-3846

http://www.visitbrooklyn.org/

By train: 2,3,4,5 (IRT) to Borough Hall; M,R (BMT) to Court Street; A,C,F (IND) to Jay St-Borough Hall

By bus: B25, B26, B37, B38, B41, B45, B51, B52, B103

Restaurant Weeks in Winter 2009

NYC Restaurant Week™ Winter 2009 starts tomorrow.  (That's right, Sundays are included this time.)  It spans two weeks—18-23 & 25-30 January—and comprises more than 250 New York City restaurants.  Three courses cost $24.07 for lunch and $35 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://nycgo.com/restaurantweek to view the list of participating restaurants and their menus, and to make reservations.

Farther down the coast, Baltimore will host its Winter Restaurant Week from 23 January to 1 February.  Over 100 restaurants will offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $20.09 for lunch and $30.09 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.baltimorerestaurantweek.com/ to see the list of participating restaurants and to make reservations.

Restaurant Week in New England

A couple of New England cities kick off their respective food fests today.  Restaurant Week beckons visitors to savor the flavors of Newport, Rhode Island and New Haven, Connecticut.

Newport Restaurant Week
(November 9-15, 2008)

With roughly 35 Newport-area restaurants participating, this is by far the larger affair.  Three-course meals are fixed-priced at $16 for lunch and $30 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).  In addition, numerous events—including wine tastings, cooking demonstrations, and even a martini contest!—are scheduled throughout the week.

(401) 845-9123
(800) 976-5122

http://www.gonewportrestaurantweek.com/

New Haven Restaurant Week
(November 9-14, 2008)

This is the city's first such celebration in its 370-year history.  From now until Friday, 18 downtown restaurants offer three-course menus, fixed-priced at $16.38 (the year New Haven was founded) for lunch and $29 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

http://www.infonewhaven.com/restaurantweek

Washington Restaurant Week (weekend included)

If you happen to be in our nation's capital during August 11-17, you'll have the opportunity to partake in Washington, D.C.'s Summer Restaurant Week.  Nearly 200 restaurants in the metropolitan area will offer three-course meals, fixed-priced at $20.08 for lunch and $35.08 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://www.washington.org/restaurantwk to view the list of participating restaurants and to make reservations.

Restaurant Fortnight (weekends excluded) Summer 2008

NYC Restaurant Week™ Summer 2008 is almost upon us.  It's really two weeks—July 21-25 and July 28-August 1—of "price-fixing" at more than 200 New York City restaurants.  Three courses cost $24.07 for lunch and $35 for dinner (excluding taxes, beverages, and gratuities).

Visit http://nycvisit.com/restaurantweek to view the list of participating restaurants and to make reservations.

The Little Bistro Marchés on

The recent Dine In Brooklyn week afforded me the perfect occasion to try Le Petit Marché, a relative newcomer to North Brooklyn Heights—an area where only the strong survive.  Nearly a year-and-a half old, this little Gallic bistro is the sort of place that allows me to boast that, for the money, Brooklyn offers better dining than does Manhattan.

Chef Mick Pirnick produces sumptuous dishes with flavors that harmonize on the palate.

My starter of escargot broiled with garlic herb butter was garlicky, nicely seasoned (though a little salty), fresh, and quintessentially French.  Call me a traditionalist, but this classic preparation, served with a slice of toast, is preferable to more recent en croûte variations I've had.

As a main course, I chose the seared wild striped bass with Provençal dressing and spring vegetables.  The flavors of the fish and vegetables blended well.  Again, the ingredients were very fresh and well seasoned, except for some slight over-salting.  (Mind you, I'm not shy about salt—I typically add it to everything.)

Last, I was torn between the Tahitian vanilla crème brûlée and the warm strawberry rhubarb crisp à la mode—I chose the latter.  (All right, I’m not always a traditionalist.)  Unlike most desserts of this sort, this one was not overly sweet and, equally important, served as a much-needed reminder of spring's arrival.

Le Petit Marché is a pleasant addition to this end of Henry Street.  The tastefully decorated dining room with its exposed brick walls and tin ceiling befits the neighborhood.  The welcoming husband-and-wife team of Daniella Silone and Igor Tsan offer their essential personal touch; the service is professional and courteous.  One can really sense that they strive to please.  This one’s a keeper.

 

Le Petit Marché

46 Henry Street (bet. Cranberry & Middagh Sts), Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn

(718) 858-9605

http://bkbistro.com/

By train: A,C to High Street or 2,3 to Clark Street

By bus: B25 to Cranberry Street;
From Manhattan: B51 to Cadman Plaza

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Water that Rose to the Occasion

My first visit to Rose Water came several years ago, shortly after it opened.  Union Street had been torn up, and thus encumbered both vehicular and pedestrian traffic.  Dust, noise, and other unpleasant side effects of construction seemed to foster an inauspicious start.  Nevertheless, this Park Slope "Seasonal American" eatery overcame the early obstacles and went on to flourish.  I went back recently during Dine In Brooklyn week.

Although chicken is not usually my first choice when I dine out, it's my favorite dish here.  The roasted bird is one of the most popular items on the menu with good reason.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The Dine In Brooklyn menu consisted of three courses for $23.  There was also an option to pair each course with a small glass of wine for an additional $14.  Though I usually rely on my instincts, it's not bad to pull my head out of the sand occasionally to try wine pairings I'd not have chosen myself.

I began my meal with a delicious, creamy cauliflower soup.  Nicely seasoned, though perhaps a bit too subtly, this rich potage seemed worthy of the calories.  A South Fork Chardonnay accompanied this course.  Perhaps I'm not quite ready for ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) club membership yet, since the pairing wasn't all that bad in my opinion.

A restaurant always receives extra credit for good bread, and more points yet for serving it with olive oil, as they do here.  The bread is rather good, with a firm, spongy texture.  The oil is also well-chosen.  Had the bread been a bit crustier, however, it could have received a few more Brownie points.

On to the main course.  Did I mention that I like Rose Water's roasted chicken?  It's tender and succulent.  Unaggressive seasoning allows the bird's natural flavors to come forward.

The food-friendly Dolcetto d'Alba was a well-chosen accompaniment to this dish.  Should you be unfamiliar with this wine, don't allow the name Dolcetto to suggest sweetness.  In fact, it's rather light and dry, having low acidity but some pronounced tannins.  I've always found its pairing with roasted chicken to be harmonious.

For dessert, I chose the caramelized brioche.  It was just a bit too sweet for my taste, but then, my threshold for sugary confection is lower than most people's.  A misnamed "PX Sherry" was paired with the final course.  If you're fond of sherries, you’ll recall that PX (Pedro Ximénez) is often used to sweeten dry ones.  By itself, however, it's dark brown, syrupy, and very sweet.  What I was served looked more like a White Zinfandel (fortunately the similarity ended there) and tasted like a sweetened sherry.  It's not something I'd have chosen—a real PX or Cream sherry would have been better—but it was interesting all the same.  But please don't call it PX.

Beyond Dine In Brooklyn week, Rose Water offers several prix fixe options: a three-course market menu Monday through Thursday for $28; a five-course Chef's tasting menu daily for $54; and a weekend brunch for $12.50.

Rose Water

787 Union Street (near 6^th Avenue), Park Slope, Brooklyn

(718) 783-3800

http://rosewaterrestaurant.com/

By train:  to Union Street
By bus: B71 to 6^th Avenue

 

Getting Your Fixe

The recently concluded Dine In Brooklyn event reminded me just how much I enjoy "Restaurant Weeks."  Fortunately, by featuring affordable prix fixe menus, eateries can extend the idea year-round.  This allows restaurants to showcase certain dishes at a bargain price (though sometimes, alas, to unload food they’ve ordered too much of).  A little comparison and quick arithmetic involving the regular menu tend to bear this out.  Even if fixed-price menus include dishes not listed à la carte, they typically represent a good value.  Portions may be smaller than those ordered individually, but that only strengthens the case for having dessert.

Many restaurants cloak their prix fixe offerings as "pre-theatre" for those who require (or who don't mind) an early supper.  To me, dining out is to be enjoyed without a concern for time and should not be rushed before an evening performance.  I typically order pre-theatre specials in name only—that is, on nights I do not attend the theatre.  (On the occasion of an actual show, when time is short, I do tend to order à la carte—from Gray's Papaya.)

Upcoming posts will highlight some of my recent prix fixe adventures.

There’s not a problem that I can’t fixe, ‘cause I can do it in the prix.