Comestiblog

Orange You Gonna Miss This?

The end has arrived for a Florida citrus institution in the Tampa Bay area.  Citrus Country Groves served its last orange ice cream yesterday, before shutting its doors forever.  I visited the Clearwater store during its final hours.

Citrus Country's orange is the best soft-serve ice cream I've ever had the pleasure to consume.  Made with real orange juice, replete with bits of pulp, this frozen citrus swirl is a most refreshing antidote to the Florida heat.  And it actually tastes of orange—what a concept!

For more than 60 years, citrus cognoscenti have flocked to the two stores for their prized Indian River fruit and fruit products.  The original opened in 1946 as Orange Blossom Groves in Seminole; the second opened three years later on U.S. Route 19 in Clearwater.  When founder Al Repetto sold the business to Jim Guedry in 2005, the groves were rechristened.  But all that is juice under the spigot now.  At the Clearwater site, the citrus store will soon bear new fruit—as an automotive dealership.

Citrus Country Groves (closed)

18200 US 19 N (SW corner Belleair Rd)
Clearwater, FL   33764-6513  (map)

(800) 940-2601

https://www.holidaycitrus.com/

Landry's, Gateway to Tampa

My visits to Tampa, Florida customarily begin and end at Landry's at Rocky Point.  The restaurant's proximity to Tampa International Airport and its lovely waterfront setting make it a convenient and relaxing dining spot—indoors or alfresco—before or after a flight.

As its name implies, Landry's Seafood House specializes in sea fare—with a bayou flair.  While dishes featuring catfish, grouper, red snapper, redfish, mahi-mahi, and gulf shrimp showcase the Gulf of Mexico's bounty, toppings such as Pontchartrain (creamy white wine sauce with mushrooms and jumbo lump crabmeat), crawfish étouffée (a tan roux with sautéed crawfish tails), and Acadiana (crawfish tails and corn pico de gallo in an Andouille cream sauce) add a savory Louisiana touch.  Aside from its seafood offerings, the menu throws a bone to landlubbers in the form of a few beef and fowl dishes.  Salads, pastas, burgers, and sandwiches are also available.

Though the wine list is unexceptional, it does offer a reasonable number of selections by the glass.  On my last visit, however, I forwent my usual libation in favor of Landry's signature drink: the 21-ounce Mai Tai ($7.99), a cocktail made with light and dark rums, Crème de Noyaux (an almond-flavored liqueur made from fruit pits), pineapple juice, and sweet-and-sour mix.  Its tropical flavors were quite refreshing.

Fried Oysters with steak fries and onion strings

Starters I've sampled have tended to be somewhat oily and insipid.  The Fried Calamari ($8.99 lunch; $9.99 dinner) is a typical example: it's greasy, limp, and considerably less tasty than similar preparations at other restaurants.  I've found the soups to be a better choice.  Landry's New England Clam Chowder ($4.99 lunch; $5.99/$7.99 dinner), for instance, is quite delectable (though its subtle smoky flavor diminishes its authenticity slightly).

All main courses include Landry's Famous Salad Bowl—a satisfying, unlimited serving of fresh greens, tossed tableside.  (The creamy, golden Italian dressing, incidentally, is a superior alternative to the standard vinaigrette.)  A tasty loaf of hot, crunchy garlic bread accompanies the salad.  (Please note that within the past year, garlic bread is served upon request only.  Be sure to issue your request!)

For my main course, I usually order a broiled, fresh fish.  I particularly enjoy the firm, moist Gulf Snapper ($18.99 lunch; $21.99 dinner) blackened ($1 additionally).  The Cajun-style seasoning complements the snapper's mild, nutty flavor perfectly—thus rendering the small cup of dipping sauce superfluous.  The rich and flavorful vegetable risotto is a well-chosen accompaniment.  I can also recommend the Catfish Fillets ($9.99 lunch; $16.99 dinner), another of my favorites.

Blackened Gulf Snapper with vegetable risotto

While I've never tried Landry's Bananas Foster (their signature dessert), I recommend the Key Lime Pie ($5.99)—a pleasing combination of sweetness and lime.  (My choice is based on a bifurcated desire to preserve my fond memories of Brennan's musaceous original and to enjoy a native citrus pie whose authentic confection is scarce outside Florida.)

Although Landry's has served as my welcoming gateway to the Tampa Bay area for some time, its overall atmosphere has suffered a decline since the departure of general manager Howard Cohen (the last to have his name inscribed on the front door) a couple of years ago.  Most notably, the reception and service now seem to lack their erstwhile vitality and spirit.  The food quality remains rather good, but the mood has waned somewhat.  I sincerely hope Landry's management will turn the corner soon.

Landry's Seafood House

7616 West Courtney Campbell Causeway (SR 60)
Tampa, FL   33607-1432   (map)

(813) 289-7773

http://www.landrysseafoodhouse.com/

Every sixth meal is free (up to $7.99 for lunch or $9.99 for dinner) with Landry's Free Meal Ticket.

Not a Super Guide to Tampa

The free, passport-sized Zagat guide—From Tailgating to Touchdowns—that was thrust into the hands of all who arrived at Tampa International Airport over the past several days contains an underwhelming five pages of reviews.  It's hard to understand how—or why, for that matter—the list was compiled.  Of the 20 restaurants named, more than half belong to a chain and several are situated more than an hour's drive from Tampa.  Trendy nightlife areas, such as Ybor City and Channelside, were left unrepresented.  (Incredibly, Columbia, Florida's oldest restaurant, received nary a mention.)  Local flavor seems to have been kept to a minimum.  One would think Zagat could have done a little better than this.