Why is Maine, the northernmost New England state, considered to be Down East? The term originated with sailors whose schooners were propelled by (southwest) tailwinds from Boston toward Maine. Thus, they were said to be sailing downwind and eastward, or, simply, down east. Comestiblog heads down east to Deer Isle, Maine for a series of posts.
The two islands comprising Deer Isle cap a peninsula that reaches deep into Maine's Penobscot Bay. The more southerly Deer Isle is connected by a causeway to Little Deer Isle. This, in turn, is linked to the mainland by the distinctive Deer Isle-Sedgwick Suspension Bridge, built in 1939. At the southern tip of Deer Isle lies the town of Stonington, the enduring center of the islands' economy and population.
The 18th century settlers' farming activities quickly depleted the area's fragile soils. During the second half of the 19th century, however, two new industries, fishing and granite quarrying, became mainstays of the area's economy and remain so today.
The 1939 bridge made Deer Isle, already a summer destination of the Eastern Seaboard elite, accessible to the more casual tourist. Tourism, especially kayaking, has gained significant popularity in recent years. In addition, 60 percent of Isle au Haut (pronounced Aisle O'Ho, no iniquity intended), about seven miles south of Deer Isle, is preserved as a branch of Acadia National Park (the bulk of which, Mount Desert Isle, lies farther north along the coast). Isle au Haut is a popular hiking and biking destination for day-trippers via ferry.
Also on the upswing is the once-struggling lobster industry. Newly protected habitats are yielding better catches, with an attendant uptick in prices. Stonington's robust fleet of lobstermen is one of the largest sources of Maine lobster, with factories working round the clock preparing the spiders or bugs for shipment worldwide.
Since 1870, granite has been an integral part of the local economy. Deer Isle granite has been used in the construction of such notable landmarks as the Manhattan Bridge, the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, the Smithsonian Institution, and JFK's tomb at Arlington National Cemetery. The importance of Deer Isle's quarrying to Maine’s economy was recognized in 1897 when the theretofore Green’s Landing was rechristened Stonington. There is a fascinating array of quarries, ancient and current, scattered about Deer Isle and its shelter islands for the curious to explore. The Granite Museum in Stonington is a good starting point.
The current tourist scene is best described as laid-back. Countless small galleries dot the peninsula and the two Deer Isles. In Stonington, a vibrant Friday morning farmer's market brings together both artisans and purveyors of farm-raised staples such as meat and eggs.
There are numerous hiking trails and nature preserves, all of which afford spectacular vistas around every corner. The best sources of gallery guides and hiking maps are the Visitor Center on Little Deer Isle, and the Island Heritage Trust house on the west side of Deer Isle.
Eating on Deer Isle is generally an either-or affair. A couple of pricey establishments, such as the Maritime Café and Whale's Rib, cater to the wealthy tourist and well-heeled summer resident. Their menus feature the standards tarted up, with prices tarted up accordingly. Fortunately, there are also family places, such as Mikey G's, Finest Kind (with a small, but adequate, salad bar), and the Harbor Café, that offer comprehensive menus at reasonable prices. In a word, the whole point of a visit to this part of the world (aside from the scenery) is to partake of the local catch: lobster.
The foregoing establishments all serve it, along with other just-caught shellfish, including the ridiculously sweet tiny Maine shrimp. So why pay more at a tony place? The best lobster during this visit was at the Harbor Café, the cheapest and most basic of the area's eateries.
One snag to an overnight stay on Deer Isle is breakfast. If it's not included with your accommodations, you have exactly two choices, or if it is the weekend, just one: the Harbor Café. Be sure to arrive before 10:45 A.M., however; Harbor Café absolutely stops serving breakfast at 10:45:01 (and their clock is even slightly fast). Should you be fortunate enough to be breaking fast on a weekday, consider a visit to Lily's Café. Operated by Kyra Alex, this homey eatery on the edge of town serves some of the finest blueberry pancakes I've tasted. The batter is buttery, with crisp edges, and plenty of wild Maine blueberries. Lily's doesn't skimp on quality; the generous serving of syrup is genuine maple, from a local farm. All that generosity, however, comes with a price—$8.50 for pancakes alone. Lily's also offers excellent sandwiches and home-baked goods, all of which can be served in the gardens, should you so desire. Unfortunately, the counter staff can be somewhat impertinent. When asked about their bagels, the young woman behind the counter replied, "A bagel is a bagel … I suggest you order something else." Huh? We take bagels seriously in New York. Ignorance is no excuse for insolence.
There are two exceptions to the either-or comestible scene. Both Stonington Sea Products and The Cockatoo Portuguese Restaurant are worth the journey to Stonington in their own right. Each will be described in delectable detail in upcoming posts.
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