The folks at the Loire Valley Wine Bureau knew what they were doing when they scheduled their road show and tastings for this month. As the weather becomes warmer, thoughts turn to birds, bees, and booze, er, springtime quaffs. What could be more refreshing on a warm afternoon or evening (or even morning) than a glass of Muscadet? While The Loire Valley is known best for its whites, its rosés and reds should not be overlooked.
If you're unfamiliar with the "Garden of France" and its wines, perhaps a little background here would not be amiss. Were you aware that the Loire is France's longest river? It flows approximately 630 miles from Central France to the coast of Brittany and has served as the traditional boundary between the north and south. It also represents one of the northernmost wine-producing regions in Europe.
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Delicious and refreshing, Loire Valley wines are the most popular ones served in the restaurants of France. Don't expect to taste wood because wines from this region spend little or no time in oak. Instead, they are aged in stainless steel which allows the fruit to come forward and adds to their minerality.
Terroir and climate divide the Loire Valley into three subregions. Though its name might suggest otherwise, the hilly and cool Centre-Loire marks the eastern end of the Valley. To the west, hills give way to the undulating plains of the central and largest part of the region known as Anjou-Saumur-Touraine. The westernmost section, where the river disembogues into the Atlantic, is called Pays Nantais (after the city of Nantes). The soil and climate of each the foregoing subregions contribute to their distinctive wines.
The Centre-Loire is home to the Sauvignon Blanc grape. Wines from this area tend to be dry and reveal hints of flint and mineral. (Chèvre, or goat cheese, makes an ideal food pairing.) Situated across the Loire from each other, the towns of Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire lend their names to the district's principal wines. Sancerre, on the western bank, with its hilly terrain, produces a wine that's lighter and drier than that of its cousin east of the river. Pouilly Fumé comes from an area that is flatter and moister than Sancerre's. Also called Fumé Blanc, this wine is often described as having hints of gunflint, which is reflected in its smoky name fumé. Other appellations from the Centre-Loire include Pouilly-sur-Loire, Menetou-Salon, Quincy,
Reuilly, Coteaux du Giennois, and Châteaumeillant.
Anjou-Saumur-Touraine not only represents the Loire Valley's largest subregion, but also its greatest wine diversity. Here one can find red, white, rosé, sweet, and sparkling wines. The best-known variety in this area is Chenin Blanc. Though vinified in other parts of the world, this grape reaches its pinnacle here. While Vouvray is the largest and most famous Chenin Blanc appellation, smaller ones like Savennières and Montlouis sur Loire (just across the river from Vouvray) produce estimable wines as well. In addition, Chenin Blanc is the only grape used in the Loire's sweet wines (Moelleux and Liquoreux), whose honeyed tones offer an affordable alternative to Sauternes.
Though often blended with other red varieties, Cabernet Franc ("Breton") dominates Anjou-Saumur-Touraine wines such as Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur, Saumur-Champigny, Touraine Rouge, and Anjou rouge. The light, food-friendly wines are low in tannins and may be consumed young. They're best when served slightly chilled. Interestingly, Anjou produces more red wines than it does whites and also produces sweet wines. Should you prefer aromatic rosés on the sweeter side, the ripe-berry tones of Rosé d'Anjou and Cabernet d'Anjou will satisfy.
The chalky, soft, and porous tuffeau limestone is reflected in the wines of Saumur and Touraine. A verdant garden within the Garden of France, Touraine is, architecturally, the site of many of France's great châteaux. Viticulturally, it is home to the Loire Valley's most prestigious red, a wine about which Rabelais wrote: Chinon.
The Loire Valley is France's second-largest source of sparkling wines, with the greatest production coming from Saumur. Once again, Chenin Blanc figures prominently. Loire sparklers can specify an appellation (e.g., Vouvray Mousseux, Saumur Brut, etc.) or assume the overarching appellation of Crémant de Loire. These wines may be white or rosé and are made using the méthode traditionnelle of Champagne. In 2002, the Fines Bulles® (fine bubbles) designation was established for sparkling wines from Anjou-Saumur-Touraine.
The Pays Nantais is situated at the mouth of the Loire. It represents France's largest white wine appellation and is renowned for a single wine, Muscadet—considered to be among the lightest and driest anywhere. The melon de Bourgogne (also known as "Muscadet") is the only grape allowed. As its name suggests, the grape can be traced to Burgundy, though, ironically, it is now grown exclusively in the Loire. This wine can benefit from aging, though it seldom receives much. Some of the best wines from this area come from the subappellation Muscadet Sèvre et Maine.
The term sur lie on a Muscadet's label refers to a wine that was aged on its lees (fermentation yeasts) before being bottled. It denotes a labor-intensive process that adds complexity and the slightest effervescence, or les perles de la jeunesse ("the pearls of youth") to the wine.
Our formal tasting comprised the following:
Crémant de Loire Brut Langlois Château NV. (60% Chenin Blanc; 20% Chardonnay; 20%
Cabernet Franc.) I found this sparkler to have yeastiness, with aromas of bread dough, prominent acidity, and round texture.
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Domaine de La Quilla 2006. (100% Melon de Bourgogne.) This one was bone dry, minerally, citric, with hints of green apple. Sur lie contributes to its liveliness.
Quincy Domaine Philippe Portier 2006. (100% Sauvignon Blanc.) I sensed hints of grapefruit.
Savennières Domaine Laffourcade 2006. (100% Chenin Blanc.) This wine is very fierce when young. It opens up after five to eight years. "Decant it violently," we were told. It has also been described as "a red wine masquerading as a white." Soil is a factor here.
Chinon Clos des Marronniers Domaine du Roncée 2006. (100% Cabernet Franc.) This was the star, in my humble opinion. It’s delicious, exhibiting notes of raspberry, tobacco, and mineral. It's not bold and is very food-friendly. Remarkably, few people know this wine and thus are reluctant to order it.
Coteaux de l'Aubance Domaine Richou La Sélection 2005. (100% Chenin Blanc.) This is a sweet, earthy wine with flavors of honey and
citrus. There’s a sense of botrytis in the nose.
The Alliance française in New York is conducting a Loire Valley wine class Monday, 21 April in Le Skyroom, 22 E. 60th Street. For tickets, visit Ticketmaster.com or call (212) 307-4100.
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